Recommended Posts

I've just discovered that the amp in my new (to me at least) MK1 GS300 is broken so need to get hold of a new one ASAP.

Does anyone have a working one they want to get rid of? Or know where I can get one before the weekend?

(Sorry for posting this twice, but thought I might get a better response in here)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you'd be better off trying to get this repaired as the amp - the one in the boot - also controls the rear speakers aswell as the centre sub. I got rid of mine about 6 months ago and replaced with an Alpine unit that did a very close job of the old amp but to replace the amp does require a bit of rewiring of the speaker system.

Hope this help you

BR

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the time being I might just cope with only having the left channel :-( I've had one quote of around £250 for a used one that seems OTT.

Is there a fascia adapter for the GS300 that would let me use a standard single DIN headunit so I could replace the entire standard system?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not aware of any din adapters but doesn't mean there isn't any. I wiried up the whole from scratch and kept the orginal wiring for when I remove the radio. I made a din plate that will fit the radio better out of ply-wood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i made my din plate out of MDF, after seaching everywhere for an aftermarket one

good luck hunting......................!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

problem with the facia plates from the US is that they are for the LHD model..............

regarding the standard equipment i'm keeping all of mine for when the day comes to sell then i can put the OE stereo/amp/subs etc back in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
problem with the facia plates from the US is that they are for the LHD model..............

Oh yeah, never thought of that, well at least I find out before wasting any money.

regarding the standard equipment i'm keeping all of mine for when the day comes to sell then i can put the OE stereo/amp/subs etc back in

Sure I can't tempt you? :D

Guess I'll have to try and get it fixed then. I've tried a couple of places but they refuse to fix Lexus stereo's for some reason. I've emailed autosound to see whether they can fix it but that'll mean being without any sounds for a week or so :-(

Perhaps someone out there will sell me one though (here's hoping)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about taking it back to the dealer you just bought it from and getting him to fix it under warranty?

Tsch - maybe you should have just kept that amp in the FTO after all - hindsight and all that!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are known to have wiring problems on the amp side of things. Take all of the plugs out of it and give them a clean. It sit's under the disk changer, and the whole lot is sort of bolted to the floor. You'll get at the plugs without removing everything though.

Also check all connections at the back of the stereo. You've got four channels from that to the amp i believe, then the 8 out of the amp.

Ask if you need to know how to get the stereo out, it's no probs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for that :-)

I've got the amp out and we've had a good look at it. It seems to have water damage so we're going to have a go at cleaning it up and see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you may be fighting a loseing battle with water damage............. :huh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True, but worth a go before shelling out loads of cash on repair/replacement I think.

My dad (ceegeepee - above) was an electronics engineer years ago so I trust him to have a good go at fixing it before I give up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I've given up on the Lexus amp as it's far too knackered, expensive and difficult to source, so I've begun work on converting the wiring to allow the standard head unit to interface with a generic amp.

I've completed most of the job and now have the amp (a 6 channel infinity) all wired up using the existing speaker wiring and head unit outputs but obviously with a beefier power and earth cable. All is set up and working plus I haven't lost any of the functionality of the standard headunit. The only problem I'm having at the moment is alternator whine which I hope to sort out over the next few days, and that my rear drivers side speaker doesn't work so needs investigation (any ideas for replacements?).

I've worked out the pinout and colour schemes of the amp wring and will post them here if anyone is interested.

I do have another question though. The inifnity amp won't run bridged with a 2ohm load so I've purchased a replacement 4ohm free air subwoofer for the rear shelf, but can't quite work out how to get at the old one. So before I start randomly pulling on things, does anyone know how to do it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove back seat and unclip parcel shelf, slide it out and unbolt sub. Its as easy as that 10min job.

By the way what sub did you get?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got a cheapy kenwood kfc-w2509, mainly because it was available for £10 (~£55 rrp) and I'm a little short of cash having just bought the car, but hopefully it'll be ok.

I was hoping I could get away without removing the whole rear seat, but looks like I'll have to take it out :-( Looks easy enough though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wiring Colours:

Headunit outputs (white plug):

FL+ Red/Silver

FL- Dark green/silver

FLG Brown/Silver

FR+ Black/silver

FR- White/Silver

FRG Brown/Black/Silver

RR+ Purple/Silver

RR- Light Green/Silver

RRG Brown/White/Silver

RL+ Pink/Silver

RL- Blue/Silver

RLG - Brown/Yellow/Silver

Speakers (Orange Plug):

RR+ Red

RR- White

RL+ Black

RL- Yellow

FR+ Light Green/Silver

FR- Blue/Silver

FL+ Pink/silver

FL- Purple/Silver

WF+ Light green/black/silver

WF- Light green/brown/silver

Power (blue plug):

Not done the colour scheme for this, but will do so tomorrow however I can tell you that this provides a permanent 12V, ACC, Remote and ground. 2 pins are actually marked GND one is an actual ground and one I'm not sure about (maybe headunit ground??)

I hope this helps someone, but of course I would check these out before using them. They are however correct for my 96 GS300 with the "Premium" audio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi You are a long way away but there is a breakers in Essex that have two Mk ones almost complete, radio kits in both.

NSEC Battlesbridge Near Basildon 01268 767555

I think that they will parcel

Good luck

DLJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers for that, although it's a bit too late now as I've modified all the wiring to fit a new amp.

Has anyone modified the front doors to take 6.5" speakers?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cheers for that, although it's a bit too late now as I've modified all the wiring to fit a new amp.

Has anyone modified the front doors to take 6.5" speakers?

Yes, did mine a few days ago, did all four to fit 7" mini subs - B) very good sound, left the tweeters alone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds good, any more info?

The first thing I'm not sure about is getting the door cards off, but if you have any more details on how you mounted the speakers etc that'd be great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are 7 screws holding the Door panel in, 3 under below the door pockets, 1 is under the removal cover under the handle, 1 is under the window switch (lever out), 1 is in the side vent and 1 is in the door spacer near the top of the inside door flange.

Then pull the panel from the bottom outwards, this will release the clips, then push/pull the panel upwards to release the clips that hold the window felt rubber to the inside of the window. It's not easy but will release.

The speaker housing is held into place with 4 screws, remove the wiring for the speakers and tweeters (only applies to the front - the wiring for the tweeters). The speaker is held in with another 4 screws.

To fit larger speakers, you'll need to open the speaker hole out depending on the size of your speaker, I used a dremel to do this. You'll also need to re-wire the speaker leads, you understand when you see, not hard. When your ready to fit the new speakers in, you may need to sand the rim on the plastic speaker box to give a good seal for the port, again I used a dremel for this.

To get a good sound from these, you'll need to seal the speakers as the hole will not be a perfect circle, I used silcone sealer. Normally the sealer is dry enough after about 4 Hrs to allow you to place everything back again.

Word of warning though, make sure you have clean out the speaker box well, anything left in will give a rattle sound when the speaker is used, luckly I found this out during the testing before I sealed everything.

From start to finish, it took about 4 - 5 Hrs to do.

Hope this helps.

BR

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this