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"Give that man a balloon" you are in my opinion spot on... a true drift example is

   / /

  \ / from this you can see that through the rear toe in this example there are three wheels steering the drift. this now has hp and control of the rear steer, unless anyone knows better.....?

Could you explain in more detail about this? I dont quite understand the little diagram, unless the diagram is showing a car approaching a rh bend then it does make sense.

I am very interested in the vehicle dynamics of geometry and their uses in drifting! :blush:

the diagram shows it wrong, this set up will only help in a left drift, drifting is left and right corners, this is why i stated the rear wheel need to be set neutral..........

they brake traction through chassis set up as much as geometry........not geometry alone, on a drift car the suspension is set soft on the front and as hard as possible on the rear,

alot of this rear set up is achived by hard coils/dampers and very stiff anti-roll bars

on the front a softer spring rate and more compliant anti-roll bar is used, negative camber on the front is used for maximum grip under extreme steering angles, with toe in assisting in sharp snappy turn in.

the car shell needs to be as stiff as possible, with maximum weiight at the front and minimum at the rear, with a usual HP of around 200-300 for a saloon car the size of an Altezza/IS200, and of course rear wheel drive

i value every point of your post, but since the tyre has the final say would'nt rear toe out assist? any geometry settings would help, i cannot find any WW. i have a Jan web upload relating to drifting but your maths just shot my opinion in the nuts!

any help on this topic would be gratefully and urgently appreciated.

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"Give that man a balloon" you are in my opinion spot on... a true drift example is

  / /

  \ / from this you can see that through the rear toe in this example there are three wheels steering the drift. this now has hp and control of the rear steer, unless anyone knows better.....?

Could you explain in more detail about this? I dont quite understand the little diagram, unless the diagram is showing a car approaching a rh bend then it does make sense.

I am very interested in the vehicle dynamics of geometry and their uses in drifting! :blush:

the diagram shows it wrong, this set up will only help in a left drift, drifting is left and right corners, this is why i stated the rear wheel need to be set neutral..........

they brake traction through chassis set up as much as geometry........not geometry alone, on a drift car the suspension is set soft on the front and as hard as possible on the rear,

alot of this rear set up is achived by hard coils/dampers and very stiff anti-roll bars

on the front a softer spring rate and more compliant anti-roll bar is used, negative camber on the front is used for maximum grip under extreme steering angles, with toe in assisting in sharp snappy turn in.

the car shell needs to be as stiff as possible, with maximum weiight at the front and minimum at the rear, with a usual HP of around 200-300 for a saloon car the size of an Altezza/IS200, and of course rear wheel drive

i value every point of your post, but since the tyre has the final say would'nt rear toe out assist? any geometry settings would help, i cannot find any WW. i have a Jan web upload relating to drifting but your maths just shot my opinion in the nuts!

any help on this topic would be gratefully and urgently appreciated.

i see your point in having the rear wheels at Toe out, and this will cause the rear to snap, but predictability is what is needed through a long curve,

to achive the same break factor, most drifters inflate the rear tyres to high PSI 50+

if you have both wheels toe out, this will only assist in one direction, at which point the opposite tyre will now be scrubbing and trying tocorrect the toe out effects of the other tyre.

at the end of the day, the chassis/suspension and geometry is down to driver preference, and car type

the basic factors are

HP.......200+

RWD

Soft front suspension + Hard rear suspension

Stable chassis dynamics

another point is tyre choice, sticky fronts.hard compound rears

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"Give that man a balloon" you are in my opinion spot on... a true drift example is

   / /

  \ / from this you can see that through the rear toe in this example there are three wheels steering the drift. this now has hp and control of the rear steer, unless anyone knows better.....?

Could you explain in more detail about this? I dont quite understand the little diagram, unless the diagram is showing a car approaching a rh bend then it does make sense.

I am very interested in the vehicle dynamics of geometry and their uses in drifting! :blush:

the diagram shows it wrong, this set up will only help in a left drift, drifting is left and right corners, this is why i stated the rear wheel need to be set neutral..........

they brake traction through chassis set up as much as geometry........not geometry alone, on a drift car the suspension is set soft on the front and as hard as possible on the rear,

alot of this rear set up is achived by hard coils/dampers and very stiff anti-roll bars

on the front a softer spring rate and more compliant anti-roll bar is used, negative camber on the front is used for maximum grip under extreme steering angles, with toe in assisting in sharp snappy turn in.

the car shell needs to be as stiff as possible, with maximum weiight at the front and minimum at the rear, with a usual HP of around 200-300 for a saloon car the size of an Altezza/IS200, and of course rear wheel drive

your oppinion of the drift section on my jan up load to me will be valuable, sad mad or bad at least i know where i stand, this season i had the privilege of setting the geometrey on a nissan 200sx with 30' rear toe with seemingly good results, wont make the news but done well, still dont understand why the rear toe in a negative possition does not benifit towards rear steer, im not saying that the geometry is the do all but it is the all done.

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