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Is200 Clutch And More Power


RoadRash
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Hi!

Last weekend we tried to get some 0-62mph times.

We couldn't get under 8 - 8.5secs.

WHY??

Except of the fuel problem at 4000rpm (because the boost gets to 0.7bar for short and the MapUnit doesn't support the fuel there), we noticed serious clutch problems.

In 1st gear the clutch slipped almost the whole time where I was in 1st gear, then after each shifting into next gear it took a moment until the power got 100% to the transmission.... means it also slips at shifting.

At all we lost a lot of time, so we have been pi**ed because of the long 0-62 time. :angry:

So my question is, if anybody with the TTE-SuperCharger or any other power-upgrade also had this kind of problem?!?!? :crybaby::unsure:

Maybe the turbo gives some more torque than the supercharger..... :whistling:

And who already got a clutc upgrade which works pretty good or far better than before??

Any experiences?? :unsure:

:)

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The IS200 clutch is marginal at best.............

You need one of Mr Helix's !!!

Hi!

Last weekend we tried to get some 0-62mph times.

We couldn't get under 8 - 8.5secs.

WHY??

Except of the fuel problem at 4000rpm (because the boost gets to 0.7bar for short and the MapUnit doesn't support the fuel there), we noticed serious clutch problems.

In 1st gear the clutch slipped almost the whole time where I was in 1st gear, then after each shifting into next gear it took a moment until the power got 100% to the transmission.... means it also slips at shifting.

At all we lost a lot of time, so we have been pi**ed because of the long 0-62 time.  :angry:

So my question is, if anybody with the TTE-SuperCharger or any other power-upgrade also had this kind of problem?!?!?  :crybaby:  :unsure:

Maybe the turbo gives some more torque than the supercharger.....  :whistling:

And who already got a clutc upgrade which works pretty good or far better than before??

Any experiences??  :unsure:

:)

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OK guys..... I'm unsure, I got so much pro and contras...

What should I choose??

I don't want to hear "It depends on how much power you want to have".

Simply what is better??

Light FW + organic clutch :question:

or

Light FW + paddle clutch :question:

Let me know and I will go,

Mike :)

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The metal or cerametalic centre plate will cope with more power than an organic alternative, but the down side is that they have a more agressive engagement, are prone to juddering and will tear the flywheel to pieces. They are not normally recommended for street use for these reasons.

We only recommend one piece chrome moly steel flywheels for street use (and make sure it is balanced properly otherwise it could lead to harshness and accelerated engine bearing wear).

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wow sounds like good quality steel i bet that doesnt come cheap how much is a light weight flywheel ???

Hi Andyman, The LS400 doesn't have a flywheel, it has what is called a "flexplate" for the torque converter and ring gear to attach to.

The flex plate is a lot lighter than the lightest of flywheels, so it always makes me smile a bit when people say that a lightweight flywheel will ruin the idle quality. I don't ever remember an automatic car having a bad idle because it has a super light flex plate :duh: . I guess that's the downside of people thinking they are an expert because they read something on the internet, or takes something they have heard for gospell without checking the facts.

The average price for a decent quality one piece chrome moly flywheel is about £300 plus vat.

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Do the Helix-clutch systems work fine??  :huh:

No vibrations or something??

I guess yes, they are ok..... right??  :unsure:

]

The Helix organic clutch works well and is nice to drive, but won't hold as much torque as the cerametalic or multi plate types.

One of those with a decent balanced chrome moly flywheel is the way to go.

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why would a flywheel have to be balanced and how would u know it has been done correctly ??

My idea of a balanced diet is a pint of beer in each hand, although when it comes to machine parts Colin is right about the affects of balance.

There is only way to balance rotatating parts, and that is on a dynamic balancing machine. It can't be done on any other kind of machine.

There are varying degrees of accuracy depending on how well you or the person doing the job wants it be balanced. It can be anything from 2 grammes (barely acceptable) to a tiny fraction of a gramme (more like it). The larger the toloerance the more likely you are to notice vibrations. Small vibrations may not be felt by you but there will be additional wear on the engine and transmission.

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The Helix organic clutch works well and is nice to drive, but won't hold as much torque as the cerametalic or multi plate types.

Will the Helix organic clutch have any problems with a S/Ced IS (not more than 210bhp)?

IS the Helix better than OEM??? For a S/Ced IS?

We are not talking about high power machines. Just a S/C or T/C bolt on.

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The Helix organic clutch works well and is nice to drive, but won't hold as much torque as the cerametalic or multi plate types.

Will the Helix organic clutch have any problems with a S/Ced IS (not more than 210bhp)?

IS the Helix better than OEM??? For a S/Ced IS?

We are not talking about high power machines. Just a S/C or T/C bolt on.

I've had the organic clutch on my car with 260bhp with no problems. I'm sure if it had of been worn when the engine was being replaced Mark would have replaced it.

I think....that the organic clutch is OK up to 280/300 (if what the helix guy told me is correct)

With everything its how you treat it. Constant dumped clutch starts or driving with your foot resting on the clutch & they will wear out quickly.

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What did you do to get 260HP??

Also TC or SC and NOS or something??

:huh:

s/c and NOS

its now a 2.1 with forged pistons & steel conrods,modified cyinder head.

When its run it it will have a TDi boost upgrade to .8 bar and the rev limit increased to 7000 rpm maybe 7250 depending on when the power curve dips.

Hoping for 280/285 bhp then the NOS will raise by 100

all this with the same set up as you Mike :P :whistling:

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Wouldn't you get problems with ignition and cam timing or such??

285HP with the SC, that will work??

Same setup as me?? :blink:

I don't have an SC.... I have a TC. :unsure:

And I don't plan to put NOS on it.

A few guys here blew up their VR6 engines with that crap..... :ph34r:

Which compression are the new internals running??

8.5:1 or such or more??

Raise rpm-range??

Did you get an aftermarket ECU or such??

Or is it possible to program the stock ECU?

But sounds interesting..... :winky: :whistling:

I'm also planning to get forged internals next year to raise boost.

But I'm not sure if I will really realize that..... :whistling:

At the moment it's important to get the clutch and flywheel, and at all to solve that stupid fuel problem, but I think we got it, where the problem is.

We bent the wastegate bar to turn the turbo to the right direction.

But we bent too hard I think, so the wastegate opens too late and the boost shoots up to 0.7-0.8bar. Means we have to bend it back a bit.

The MapUnit cuts the fuel, as it seems.

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Wouldn't you get problems with ignition and cam timing or such??

285HP with the SC, that will work??

the hks fcon-pro will sort all that out for me

Same setup as me??  :blink:

I don't have an SC.... I have a TC.  :unsure:

power output (ish)

And I don't plan to put NOS on it.

A few guys here blew up their VR6 engines with that crap.....  :ph34r:

If the NOS is done correctly with a progressive controller then its OK. I did over 7000 miles with mine and had no problems at all

Which compression are the new internals running??

8.5:1 or such or more??

std compression

Raise rpm-range??

Did you get an aftermarket ECU or such??

Or is it possible to program the stock ECU?

the hks fcon-pro does the rev limit

But sounds interesting.....  :winky:  :whistling:

I'm also planning to get forged internals next year to raise boost.

But I'm not sure if I will really realize that.....  :whistling:

At the moment it's important to get the clutch and flywheel, and at all to solve that stupid fuel problem, but I think we got it, where the problem is.

We bent the wastegate bar to turn the turbo to the right direction.

But we bent too hard I think, so the wastegate opens too late and the boost shoots up to 0.7-0.8bar. Means we have to bend it back a bit.

The MapUnit cuts the fuel, as it seems.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have had so far :

standard clutch - nice and smooth but gave up in seconds with the supercharger

Helix paddle clutch - great feel, makes the car seem more powerful, lol, but is incredibly harsh for road use (but boy do i miss it!!)

Helix organic clutch. you get all the nice feel back to the car. but i have felt it slip towards the top of the revs in 5th and 6th when accelerating hard. makes the drive smooth again and my gear box is thanking me!!!

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