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What oil would you recommend for a very high mileage (180k) GS300-2?

Would you recommend the use of flushing oil prior to an oil and filter change??

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Having some experience with a couple of high miler Toyotas, I would say don't bother with flushing the engine, it can cause more problems than it solves. Better to change the oil on a regular basis, say every 3-5K. The only flushing product that seems to give good results is Seafoam which is probably impossible to obtain outside the USA.

Some high miler owners experience leaks when using a fully synthetic oil on older engines, personally I have never had a problem with leaks and I use Mobil No.1 in the MR2 and Starlet.

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What oil would you recommend for a very high mileage (180k) GS300-2?

Would you recommend the use of flushing oil prior to an oil and filter change??

I use Valvoline Max Life in my Ls its made for high mileage engines and is good value.

Look on their website for details.

I think I would also stear clear of flushing oils.

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If you have been using a full synth oil then stick with that otherwise a semi like GTX magnetec would be fine.

If you have been changing the oil on time I wouldn't bother with a flush, or if you really want to then every other oil change.

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Mineral or semi-synthetic. Unless you wanna take the risk of very thin synthetic oil finding it's way out of the engine. It does happen on the older cars, especially if the seals are a bit worn.

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castrol gtx or duckhams hypergrade, as posted before.. not synthetic, learnt my mistake with a supra (7mgte) i poured it in ran it to make sure it was all allright and it just poured out :)

Steve

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Mineral or semi-synthetic. Unless you wanna take the risk of very thin synthetic oil finding it's way out of the engine. It does happen on the older cars, especially if the seals are a bit worn.

surely all oils are the same or similar viscocity when very hot anyway??

Bought some Magnatec 5w30 today - gonna use that

Thanks for the advice guys

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I use Total Quartz semi, only coz i get it very cheap with working for Total

no problem with this oil,

A mate of mine reckons total oils used to be very good, hope they still are has I am using them

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Mineral or semi-synthetic. Unless you wanna take the risk of very thin synthetic oil finding it's way out of the engine. It does happen on the older cars, especially if the seals are a bit worn.

surely all oils are the same or similar viscocity when very hot anyway??

Bought some Magnatec 5w30 today - gonna use that

Thanks for the advice guys

There are a few reasons why this happens - number 2 being the main problem when switching on a worn engine.

1/ When fully synthetic oil were first introduced some made oil seals shrink and therefore produced leaks - these oils therefore got a bad name and although additives are now used and it doesn't happen anymore, people incorrectly believe it's still a problem.

2/ Normal petroleum based oils don't keep the engine fully clean. You end up with sludge and varnish around the engine. This can be useful because it tends to fill any little holes that appear due to engine wear. If you then introduce a fully synthetic oil this cleans away the sludge and the holes are uncovered and you get a leak.

To stop this, use fully synthetic from the start and you won't get as much engine wear.

3/ Fully synthetic oils are more slipperry and have better pour capabilities at low temperatures and therefore can escape more easilly.

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Whatever you choose, don't spoil the brew by adding an additive. Its probably already in there.

My better half has a 97 Escort with a CVH engine. Its into 90 odd

thousand miles now and apart from when Ford serviced it for the first 2 years, i have always oil changed it every 10,000 mileswith a 10/40 semi sythentic. Recently I had to swap a leaking rocker cover gasket on it and was pleaseantly surprised to see how spotless the engine internals are.

No doubt most Lexus Engines will be the same.

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some dealers use semi but they should tell you what oil they used on the service sheet.

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I use Total Quartz Energy fully synthetic but mine's low mileage.

Viscosity at 40°C and 100°C:

Total Quartz Energy 0W-30:    68.45    12.18
Castrol Edge 5W-30:    73.4    11.9

So it's less viscous when cold but more viscous when hot. What's not to like!

I've been using this fully-synthetic for a few years now and the engine runs super-smooth and quiet. And it's cheaper too. As my Lexus manual suggests I let the engine run for 10s on start-up to oil the overhead cams, this is ideal as it's the least viscous when cold of the oils I've compared.

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On 10/6/2005 at 6:52 PM, Rodders_UK said:

What oil would you recommend for a very high mileage (180k) GS300-2?

Would you recommend the use of flushing oil prior to an oil and filter change??

I have used flush on 160k and 170k oil changes and it prolongs the oil life for ~2000 miles. I reckon I can do oil changes every 6000miles without flush and ~8000 miles with flush. If I keep oil for longer I get the rattle from sticking hydraulic valve lifters. Instead of standard Magnatec 5w30, I have used Mobil1 0w40 few times and it reduces the oil burn rate considerably. By "considerably" I mean - my car burns ~0.5-0.7L of 5w30 Magnatec per ~6000miles, when on 0w40 there were no noticeable burn at all. As well with flush, oil stays visually cleaner much longer and without flush even after 1000m miles after change it is hard to tell the difference between new and old oil.

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I'd suggest the manufacturer's recommended oil because using that got it to 180k. Why change a winning combination.  :)

 

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