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Aristo Ecu


skeet94
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Hello everybody,

Still getting my bloody ABS sorted out, but just got ahold of a mate in Japan and have been told he's got access to a TOMS TECS ECU for the Aristo JZS161 :D .

Anyone know whether it affects boost or not? Also does it remove the top speed limiter currently set at 155mph?

Main question is how much is the stock ECU worth? Wondering if people on ClubLexus would buy it off me if I offered free P&P since it wouldn't be much P&P anyway.

Mitul.

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I've just ordered a TOMS TEC ECU. It'll shove your car to 350hp just like that.

Removes boost cut and speed limit. I've verified this with my Jap tuner and TOMS themselves.

Your top speed will now be 260km/h or 173mph.

One important thing is you'll need to change your sparkies to the correct iridium plugs otherwise you'll blow your engine at the higher boost level.

It runs 1.0bar typically, but overboosts to 1.2 sometimes.

Can be reprogrammed with the TOMS TEC s/ware (in Jap).

If you wanted to 50/50 for the software, I'm game. The software is 300 quid.

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Keep your stock ECU. That's what I'm doing so I can swop it back for the winter season.

Also, your stock ecu is worth something as you can send that to MINES to re-programmed for boost cut, speed-delimit, new fuel map etc. for around 700 quid.

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I've just ordered a TOMS TEC ECU.  It'll shove your car to 350hp just like that.

Removes boost cut and speed limit.  I've verified this with my Jap tuner and TOMS themselves.

Your top speed will now be 260km/h or 173mph.

One important thing is you'll need to change your sparkies to the correct Iridium plugs otherwise you'll blow your engine at the higher boost level.

It runs 1.0bar typically, but overboosts to 1.2 sometimes.

Can be reprogrammed with the TOMS TEC s/ware (in Jap).

If you wanted to 50/50 for the software, I'm game.  The software is 300 quid.

OK how does it do that? Raise the boost I mean? Surely you have to take the cats out and free up the exhaust to actaully achieve 1.2 bar of boost even on the VVTi engine? You only need to remove boost cut after you raise the boost by freeing up the exhaust. Also is it not an idea to up your fuel pump capacity to say a walbro one in order to prevent underfueling at high boost? An FSE is also a good idea if you are going to run 1.2 bar. I'd also be concerned about EGT's with a stock SMIC.

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Dangerous Brain: The ECU won't be used till I get the exhaust system sorted out, it's just that I'm getting it for next to nothing.

Yoshi's car is already de-catted, and is using the stock exhaust last I read his webpages, but as I understand it the cars exhaust system isn't TOO restrictive in the first place (after removing the CATS). As the actual ECU is ok to be used on a stock car.

Just had the Spark Plugs changed so going to wait a while as I've got a few top end runs planned then change them, oil, oil filter, timing belt, water pump, etc.

In regards to fuel, I'm sure we can perform the 12V mod that all the USA people use on their Supra's, which will allow more fuel flow and be good for about 450-500bhp (which is my goal).

Also with the stock SMIC you can actually "enhance" it's efficiency by doing ALOT of ducting and clever little tricks to get more ambient air to it, as far as I know this is good till about 400whp after which a FMIC would help out ALOT!

Also another piece of advice to lower engine bay temperatures is to remove the rubber strip at the back end of the bonnet which will help out ALOT by letting the hot air out.

Yoshi: Thanks for all the information, really helps ALOT. I wouldn't mind whatsoever to go 50/50 on the software, I'll let you know when I've got the funds for half the software and the ARS Cancellor from you :).

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With the TOMS ecu it will work 100% on a stock Aristo 2JZ-GTE.

It runs 1.0bar sustained mostly, popping up to 1.2 bar over-boost occasionally.

When running this ecu, correct MON rating (BP Ultimate) and octane booster will be required, as will the correct spark plugs. But that's all!

I know the guy at THOR Racing is running an Aristo, stock everything except for spark plugs and a back box - his bhp is 450hp.

The de-cat pipe I bought didn't make much difference, but I will be fitting it again to preserve my catalytic convertor - true the Aristo exhaust isn't that restrictive.

The TOMS ecu gives

stock Aristo - 350hp

Aristo + air filter - 377ps

Aristo + air filter + intercooler + downpipe - 392ps

Figures from LOC.

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Yoshi: Would BP Ultimate be the only fuel that would be good to run on that ECU...wouldn't say Tesco's Super Unleaded or Shell's Optimax be good enough?

Just wondering since BP Petrol stations are starting to close down near me :(.

Also the spark plugs would be one heat range cooler yes? Just double checking. Any idea on what kind of torque figures we can expect Yoshi?

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OK ey dokeys lol. Before we go any further I wasn't questioning the wisdom of the ECU or having a go at it at all I was questioning how an ECU can up the boost output of a system without complimentary modifications.

I didn't think you could simply make 1 bar of boost by changing the ECU. Stock boost is 0.8 bar.

I never said that you NEEDED an FMIC just an uprated intercooler if you started upping the boost to 1.2 bar. There is a whole seperate argument going on about wether an FMIC is better than a SMIC. Chris Wilson I think has designed and retails an uprated SMIC that fits into the same space that the stock one does with little or no extra pipework required.

Bigger injectors well those will only be required if you up the power beyond 450 bhp. My supra runs a calculated 474 bhp at the fly on Thors dyno using a figure of 395 BHP at the hubs and a 19% trans loss. Myself I think thats a bit ambitious and would put the figure around 8-9% losses putting the power in and around 440-450 which if you use the rule of thumb of the injector size limiting the power to its equivalent power is about right as mine just starts to lean off at the very top end of power.

The 12 volt mod??? Well there are quite a few on the UK forum who say its very very pants. At the least look for a UK supra TT pump 2ndhand failing that a walbro retails at just under £100 and goes straight in with little effort.

Fuel well theres another debate. Running higher boost precludes the use of 95 RON alltogether allthough stock TT's shouldn't really be run on 95. Supra boys swear by shell optimax. Myself I see no difference between optimax, BP ultimate, esso SUL, and tesco SUL 99 ron. Sainsburies SUL results in bad det on my car but should be OK on cars with less power. Octane booster is not required in my car at the mo I'll let you know how my aristo fares when I get that and know what boost its running.

HKS iridium sparks are good ones but only if you have no detonation (if you have det then the cermaic centres fall out and blow a hole in your pistons). you can run copper plugs but you have to change them every 3k miles as they melt.

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The ECU monitors boost via a pressure sensor and opens the wastegate by opening a VSV. If the ECU is reprogrammed the boost can be increased.

HKS iridium plugs are just rebadged Denso.

I would say you would need super unleaded fuel or octane booster if you have a reprogrammed ECU unless TOMS tell you otherwise. The standard ECU has mappings for lower grade fuel but TOMS may have programmed it thinking that only 100 RON is being used.

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So wastegate control alone can up the boost to 1 bar?

Are the denso plugs cheaper ie pay more for the HKS name?

I seriously wouldn't run a stock TT on 95 ron regardless of ECU programming and would definitely never consider 95 ron for raised boost TT's. Having heard alot about what aftermarket knock sensors pick up that stock ones don't its SUL all the way for me. My car won't run smooth at all under full boost with sainsburies SUL or 95 so I just don't go there.

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Dangerous Brain: The wastegate is what actually regulates boost on many turbo cars. When you upgrade to a larger diameter exhaust/downpipe & decat that boost "creep" cuts in and lets boost overshoot or allows the factory Boost Cut Limit to kick in. Controlling how long the wastegate stays closed for before opening will in turn allow boost to be increased.

Also I've had to use cheap SUL from a motorway service station, and to be honest as long as you don't "floor it" hard (drive with a VERY light foot), you will be ok as you will NOT be hitting full boost whatsoever. Only do this in emergencies though when you're almost out of fuel and there's no Shell, BP or Tesco's around. Although SUL does make a HUGE difference.

About the 12V Mod thanks alot for the advice. If anything I'll just go overkill on the fueling system since the 12V Mod doesn't work...might pick up a PHR Fuel Kit or Titan Fuel Kit, which includes everything.

Just thinking out loud here, because I'm starting to buy parts but waiting till I've got everything to put it all in in one go...has ANYONE looked at the 3.4L Stroker Kit from Titan? Is there much of a difference between the actual shortblock depending on if it's JDM or USDM? I'm thinking of having a full 3.4L Stroked Motor from Titan brought in pretty soon (got half the pennies saved :-D), or might just pick up the Stroker Kit and have the motor built up here, but highly considering it since Titan has a reputation for building some of the more reliable and more potent engines.

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If anybody knows anything about this in this country I might be tempted to think its the guys over at thor. I'm not sure if the CRD supra has been stroked to get it where it is power wise. Best bet would be to ask the US lex forum or the supraforums in the US about this.

I wasn't sure what it is actually controls the waste gate, I was under the impression it was pressure and mechanically done by the stock mechanical boost controller and not the ECU itself. Something like a blitz dbsc being used in place of the stock boost controller to alter this along with the freer flowing exhaust on JDM motors. UK spec machines aren't quite as simple to do.

About fuel I physically can't resist the urge to plant it so cheaper fuels are not an option so route planning is a must to ensure proper fuel is used :)

Plus my car is on the very edge of performance on the injector front so I can't afford to run pap fuel at top end where it goes slightly lean.

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The wastegate is operated by a vacuum actuator. This vacuum is applied to the wastegate actuator via a VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve). This valve is a bit like a tap. When it opens the path is opened between the wastegate and the intake -ve pressure. The opening and closing of the valve is controlled electronically by the ECU. There is no mechanical boost controller on the 2JZ-GTE engine.

Add on boost controllers control the vacuum getting to the wastegate after the VSV and therefore can increase the boost. As the add on boost controller is after the VSV you cannot reduce the boost below stock because the ECU has control over the VSV and therefore the boost controller cannot do anything until that opens.

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I was wondering if anyone could redirect me to the MINES website or TOM's - I'm looking to buy a modded ecu, so that I can achieve higher boost, but cannot find any used one or any info on either company - Also how much would those ecu cost? - Yoshi would your mate be able to find more ecus, and allow me to buy it from him?

Thanks.

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The opening and closing of the valve is controlled electronically by the ECU. There is no mechanical boost controller on the 2JZ-GTE engine.

Add on boost controllers control the vacuum getting to the wastegate after the VSV and therefore can increase the boost. As the add on boost controller is after the VSV you cannot reduce the boost below stock because the ECU has control over the VSV and therefore the boost controller cannot do anything until that opens.

Ah right I see. I thought that the wastegate controllers IE the VSV's were controlled by a mechanical boost controller, a bit like the ones I have seen on eBay. I didn't know that the ecu controlled them. Theoretically all that you need is a box to fudge the voltage from the ECU to the VSV to up the boost and not a whole ECU.

I did know that boost could not be reduced by a boost controller but assumed that it was because of mechanical reasons.

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Just to quickly knock this thread on it's head :

- forget a 3.4L bottom - are you mad? Unless you're going for 800-1400 rwhp, that kind of mod is not neccessary. Jun do a 3.1 litre conversion which gives enough torque to hit 200mph in an Aristo, as one Jap guy has.

- MON rating is important, best MON rating for higher boost apps is Optimax or BP Ultimate. DON'T PUT RON 95 FUEL IN YOUR ARISTO.

- with a TOMS ecu or MINES, octane will need to be raised to 100 using silko octane booster.

Links for the tuning places for Aristo are here :

http://www.lexusvertex.com/aristov300_links.htm

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I personally would go for an HKS FCON Vpro or S ...

The Toms is too much optimised for Japan conditions, and may not be able to reach its full potential in the UK conditions.

In addition, the Toms ECU settings are a compromis (Toms are not known for its aggressive settings, rather more for comfort/ride) and you cannot alter any setting.

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The TOMS ecu can be easily modified via the software, unlike the Blitz or MINES ecus.

Fuel controller is fine, but to avoid using unreliable piggy back units, the TOMS ecu is a good option.

The ecu will do some important tasks :

- remove boost cut

- remove speed limiter correctly (piggyback units do not work)

- increase boost + fueling as desired using TOMS PC software.

It's the ecu of choice for most Jap Aristo V300 owners.

It is a good unit to use to 1.0 bar or so. After that I would use fuel + boost controller.

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