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Water Spots On Glass


Mr Morse
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Great day for a detailing session, so out comes the clay bar on my 10 year old Tubby! The paintwork was already in very good condition and it didn't take too long to get rid of those tar spots and other ingrained grime. :D

When it came the windscreen it wasn't so easy. Even after 2 passes with the clay bar and another with the Autoglym glass cleaner I still have some of dem stubborn water spots and wiper track marks on the screen. :angry:

Any other methods I should be trying? Will Brasso be too abrasive on glass? :blink:

Tomorrow, the Porter Polisher and Klasse AIO makes the first appearence of 2006 :winky:

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Great day for a detailing session, so out comes the clay bar on my 10 year old Tubby! The paintwork was already in very good condition and it didn't take too long to get rid of those tar spots and other ingrained grime. :D

When it came the windscreen it wasn't so easy. Even after 2 passes with the clay bar and another with the Autoglym glass cleaner I still have some of dem stubborn water spots and wiper track marks on the screen. :angry:

Any other methods I should be trying? Will Brasso be too abrasive on glass? :blink:

Tomorrow, the Porter Polisher and Klasse AIO makes the first appearence of 2006 :winky:

Try the Klasse AIO on the windscreen its worked for me.

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Don't know if I dare say this, but have you tried diluted vinegar :blush:

Rub it on with newspaper then dry it with dry newspaper.

I think I better ring Vinegar AA

I tried the 'acid wash' on the IS200 using neat white vinegar. Gets any water marks off paintwork and glass but you need to rinse off with clean water straight after application and then dry (panel at a time). Good prep for resin sealer before wax.

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Don't know if I dare say this, but have you tried diluted vinegar :blush:

Rub it on with newspaper then dry it with dry newspaper.

I think I better ring Vinegar AA

I tried the 'acid wash' on the IS200 using neat white vinegar. Gets any water marks off paintwork and glass but you need to rinse off with clean water straight after application and then dry (panel at a time). Good prep for resin sealer before wax.

Copied from the car care section:

WATER SPOTS

The same water we use to bathe our cars can also damage our cars' paint. The spots and damage are caused by the minerals in the water. When water evaporates off of your car's paint, it leaves behind the trace elements it contains. Calcium and metals are the most damaging elements found in your tap water, whereas rainwater may contain damaging acids from air pollutants.

Avoiding water spots is easy if you chase after them. The best solution is to use a quick detailing spray after you wash, or as soon as you discover the spots (i.e., when your neighbor's sprinkler gets you).

If the spots are allowed to dry and bake on, they will attach to and harden on your paint. When this happens, you need to use a mild acid to get them loose. Believe it or not, the best acid is also the least expensive and most available: a gallon jug of distilled white vinegar.

Expert car detailers have known this secret for years. If you take your car to a pro, they will tell you about the 'magic acid bath' and charge you $60 or more for the pleasure of smelling like a pickle. Save the $60, put on some gloves, and get to it.

To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds, then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to re-wax your car after the vinegar treatment.

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To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds, then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to re-wax your car after the vinegar treatment.

I'm off down to Sainsbo in the morning! :D

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To give your car the magic acid bath, first wash your car with your normal car shampoo, rinse, then use the distilled vinegar. Just wipe it on with a sponge, and rub it in. Do one section at a time, let it sit 30 to 60 seconds, then rinse. When you're done, wash the car again with shampoo and rinse. By the way, vinegar will remove your wax. So, be prepared to re-wax your car after the vinegar treatment.

I'm off down to Sainsbo in the morning! :D

The gallon jar is a bit OTT so don't go to a cash & carry for it. I bought two 'small' bottles (about a pint) of distilled white vinegar from Tesco's and after bathing the car had more than a bottle left.

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I've always found that those little green sponge/scourers are ideal for the glass.

I tend to use fairy liquid on the scourer side and small circular movements with sufficient fairy to ensure that it doesn't run down the glass onto any paintwork.

I suppose vinegar would probably be better.

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Are those clay bars anygood Mike?

Yeah, they are excellent and easy to use. They remove all traces of tar, bird dropping remains and previous applications of wax etc. I always clay my car before a major detailing, the paint comes out sooooooo smoooth after! :D

Mike - you've done it again! Now I want a clay kit!

Back on topic, vinegar is something I use in the shower (not on me :sick: - but on the tiles etc), and it's the limescale which usually makes up all that white spotty stuff. Vinegar seems to just dissolve it.

I menytioned it else where, but I use Mr Muscle - the Penny's dropped now...next time my Mr Muscle runs out, i'm gonna use dilute white vinegar instead for the glass...

Might even try it on the kids and see how clean I can get them!!

In a moment of madness, I bought one of those Flash Car cleaner kits. Totally useless I have to say, except for the "Ionised" water cartridge. Now I wash the car, by hand using normal car shampoo, then rinse down with normal water, and finally the ionised spray...leaves no white spots at all...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Removing water spots:

There are two categories of water spots;

a) Surface water spots-alkaline watermarks (water spots) are calcium and magnesium salts that deposit on the surface after the water has evaporated, the minute crystals bond to the surface and are not re-dissolvable in water. Rainwater also contains alkaline minerals that alight on the paint film surface and as the water evaporates leave white `water spots' on both the paint and glass surfaces. Alkaline water spots (sprinkler water) require an acid (vinegar is a Acetic acid pH 2.0.) to remove them, any subsequent etching requires an abrasive to level the paint surface

B) Below surface (etched) water spots- are caused by acid rain (pH 3 – 4.0) or industrial fallout causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched water spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them. Acid rain spots require an Alkaline to neutralize them

(See also Industrial fall out (IFO) and Acid rain)

a) Removing water spots from glass- rainwater sometimes contains alkaline minerals that alight on the paint film surface and as the water evaporates leave white `water spots' on glass surfaces. Mineral deposits can be caused by water from a light summer shower, or a lawn sprinkler system that that dries on the glass surface leaving a calcium / sodium deposit.

These can usually be removed by using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits, and then using a solvent type cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) for stubborn spots polish them using method (B)

Methodology

•Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules

•Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a) 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid) adjust ratio as required

B) A 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

Allow chemical solution sufficient dwell time (5-10 minutes)

•Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Microfiber cloth to apply the solution to the glass surface

•Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from glass and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

•If any `water spots' remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to 100% cotton Microfiber towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on glass surface.

•If this does not remove the `water spots' use a chemical type ‘polish’ (Autoglym Car Glass PolishTM )and fine grade bronze wool (http://www.briwax-online.com) use straight-line motions only (circular motions cause swirl marks)

•For stubborn water spots use (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system (http:// www.autoint.com) a safe alkaline wash and neutralizing system This three part system comprises; A-Acid Neutralizer, B-Alkaline Neutralizer (use in conjunction with detailers clay to remove ‘water spots’) and C- Surface Conditioner with a pH of 7.0, which safely removes both surface and subsurface contamination and neutralizes any residual acid from the painted finish. Any subsequent etching will require an abrasive to level the paint surface

B) Removing etched (below surface) water spots from glass--- are caused by acid rain or industrial fallout causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched water spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more then one attempt to remove them.

These can usually be removed using detailer's clay to remove any hardened surface deposits and then using a mechanical type abrasive polish (Zaino ZPC Fusion) with #0000 synthetic steel wool or Iz Einzette Glas Polish, a random orbital buffer (speed # 4) and a cutting foam pad (LC orange or yellow) to level the surface.

Notes:

Do not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.

1.For deeply etched water spots' in the glass surface, do not attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive glass vendor as glass used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer) due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause glass to crack.

2.Be cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like aluminium or cerium oxide as they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.

3.Some windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will scratch or be damaged, only polish or use synthetic wool on uncoated glass.

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was at a car dealership the other day and got speaking to one of the detailers there. believe it or not, they use a couple of sheets of screwed up newspaper to get the water spots off :duh:

i didn't believe it when the chap told me but he showed me it on a windscreen and it took every water spot of without any residue/damage to the screen.i guess its a cheap and cherful idea....and worked really well :D

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