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Waxing New Paint Job


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'llo all,

As some of you know, car came back from a respray last weekend. I always thought you should leave new paint 30 days before polishing/waxing, but the guys at the body shop said I need only leave it a week. I was planning on washing this weekend (with very weak Sonus mild shampoo) - and was thinking of popping on a layer of carnuba afterwards for protection/shine etc. Is this a bad idea?

thanks in advance.

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'llo all,

As some of you know, car came back from a respray last weekend. I always thought you should leave new paint 30 days before polishing/waxing, but the guys at the body shop said I need only leave it a week. I was planning on washing this weekend (with very weak Sonus mild shampoo) - and was thinking of popping on a layer of carnuba afterwards for protection/shine etc. Is this a bad idea?

thanks in advance.

Erm.....could you leave it another week ? I'd be a bit paranoid if it was my car, especially with THAT paint job you had (very nice).

If you do give in to washing it, make sure you rinse the car first before rubbing the grit and sh!t that'll be on your paint from the roads at the mo. And don't bother polishing yet - you shouldn't need to anyway. Waxing would be okay as you aren't using anything abrasive.

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Erm.....could you leave it another week ? I'd be a bit paranoid if it was my car, especially with THAT paint job you had (very nice).

If you do give in to washing it, make sure you rinse the car first before rubbing the grit and sh!t that'll be on your paint from the roads at the mo. And don't bother polishing yet - you shouldn't need to anyway. Waxing would be okay as you aren't using anything abrasive.

Yeah, you're probably right - should leave it - guess I'm just addicted to shine now :blush: It's just with all the grit on the roads at the mo. the car's dirty already :crybaby:

And, yup, I always rinse car first and then use the "two bucket" technique (as learnt from the autopia book) - rinsing the mitt in clean water between panels.

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Yeah, you're probably right - should leave it - guess I'm just addicted to shine now :blush: It's just with all the grit on the roads at the mo. the car's dirty already :crybaby:

And, yup, I always rinse car first and then use the "two bucket" technique (as learnt from the autopia book) - rinsing the mitt in clean water between panels.

Look on the bright side - with all the other cars on the road being dirty, yours should be looking the cleanest dirty car :duh: :lol:

Save the paint, you have a lifetime of cleaning left. Just keep thinking about the quality looks you're gonna get in the Summer sunshine :winky:

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Look on the bright side - with all the other cars on the road being dirty, yours should be looking the cleanest dirty car :duh: :lol:

Save the paint, you have a lifetime of cleaning left. Just keep thinking about the quality looks you're gonna get in the Summer sunshine :winky:

You've persuaded me.

Must...resist.......cleaning.......gnnnnnnngh! :hehe:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Newly re- painted vehicle-

1. Oil-based paint, lacquer or enamel and low solids paint systems are formulated with solvents (30-80% dependant upon manufacturer) once applied paint needs to dry and the solvents need to (out-gas) evaporate for sixty to ninety days (60-90) to enable the paint off gassing and aerobic curing, if the paint is covered with a conventional wax or sealant it will arrest the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process.

2. Water-based high solid/low solvent and urethane paints used by PPG Industries, DuPont Chemicals, and BASF Aktiengesellschaft and most other paint manufacturers are not as chemically resistant as the older paint systems as they are porous, but do not require time for the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process., as they are either catalyzed (i.e. a chemical process that cures paint) or oven-dried, but I would suggest waiting for approximately ten to fifteen days before any product application, which should be more than sufficient time to enable paint off gassing and aerobic curing. Professional painters add chemicals; accelerants and compounds to their paint mix prior to painting to improve flexibility, reduce paint imperfections, increase hardness, improve gloss and reduce curing times.

3. Applied after polishing, a glaze is the make-up that hides flaws and gives paint the sheen it had in the showroom. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils, solvent, and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’

4. The application of a specific ‘fresh paint safe’ or polymer type product, Zanio Z Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) allow an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporate) /cure aerobic process. of 7 days before application. These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in an oil-based paint outgas / aerobic cure process and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax. (See also Notes below)

5. Abrasive polish should be avoided until the paint has cured (an abrasive polish will not necessarily harm the soft new paint but unless it’s absolutely necessary I would avoid it) Vehicle washing is encouraged but avoid car wash concentrates that contain any harsh detergents, alkali, acids or wax (recommended products- Zaino Z-7™ Show Car Wash, Groit’s Car Wash) also avoid car washes that uses a high-pressure spray or wax or harsh detergents.

Notes:

1.Do not use a car cover until the paint is fully cured

2.A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating easily dulled and very easily scratched, so choose carefully the advice you listen to and most importantly what advice you act upon.

3.The body-shop / paint manufactures know their products; seek their advice so as not to void any warranty. Paint manufacturer have specific technical guidelines on how to use their products to affect a warranted spot/panel/ repairs or a full repaint. This preserves both the paint manufactures and factory warranty.

4.Some Carnauba wax contains paraffin wax, which effectively ‘seals’ the paint surface more than a polymer due to its formulation. (place your hand in some paraffin wax once the wax has dried (approx 1.5-2 hours ) you'll notice that your hand starts sweating profusely because the pores have been ‘sealed’ by the wax.

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Newly re- painted vehicle-

*snip*lots of technical info*snip*

Whoah there - info overload! :hehe:

Seriously though - thanks for that! I'll be in touch with the body shop re: product and time advice but for now have resisted temptation of washing/waxing. I think we're talking water based paint (but will check) in which case I'll leave it another week and then just use a layer of P21S carnuba. Sounds about right?

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That car must be sooooooo dirty now Hando :lol: :winky: BTW, it's gonna rain the weekend !

I drive from North London to Godalming and back every day - the car is minging! :crybaby:

I'm impressed that I've resisted the urge though!

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Its always best to follow what the bodyshop tells you

you should be ok to wash the car (carefully) after 36 hours but i wouldnt wax it or polish it for at least a month

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Its always best to follow what the bodyshop tells you

you should be ok to wash the car (carefully) after 36 hours but i wouldnt wax it or polish it for at least a month

Yep - I'd always been told a month too - but when I asked the body shop they said only leave a week. I'm going to play it cautious though and do as you suggest - wash carefully this or next weekend and leave the products for a month. It should be shiny enough anyway when clean B)

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That car must be sooooooo dirty now Hando :lol: :winky: BTW, it's gonna rain the weekend !

I drive from North London to Godalming and back every day - the car is minging! :crybaby:

I'm impressed that I've resisted the urge though!

:offtopic: So you're the (dirty) black Lexus I keep seeing around Godalming!

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:offtopic: So you're the (dirty) black Lexus I keep seeing around Godalming!

Could be! :lol:

Although there's another one that's even dirtier that I see parked in Waitrose each lunch...

Beep at me next time - and if I beep back - it's me!

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I thought most of them were 'wash & wax' ?

drive.gif

ps: wanna see a filthy dirty blue one in Woking ?

I'm gonna stick with my bottle of Sonus mild shampoo for the first wash.

:offtopic: Kremmen - we probably drive by each other on the A3 if you go that way :) I'm wary of showing off my car till I pick up my new wheels from Scarface - I'm still rolling on 16"s :blush:

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:offtopic: So you're the (dirty) black Lexus I keep seeing around Godalming!

Could be! :lol:

Although there's another one that's even dirtier that I see parked in Waitrose each lunch...

Beep at me next time - and if I beep back - it's me!

You're on. I'm Platinum Ice. :D

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The question you have to ask though, what is the worst of two evils?

That is, applying a wax/sealant (not a polish, no need for new paintwork) to offer some form of limited protection or expose your new paintwork to the harsh winter elements and the associated dirt, grime, grit and salt that comes with it.

Personally I would give the car a good wash and apply some form of wax/sealant just to give it some barrier against the current environmental conditions.

Mark

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after about a month or two you will probably want the whole car flatted and mop polished again anyways so dont worry too much about the condition of the paint as it is now.

When i had mine re-sprayed in metalic black after about 4-5 weeks the paint shrinks a bit and you start to see more imperfections etc so they take 1500-2000 grit paper and flat the car and re-polish it.

i had them put 3-4 layers of clear coat on mine so you can keep buffing it back up to a shine.

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On freshy painted panels a couple of coats of quality Carnauba wax will do the trick :D

That's the plan! Soon as it stops raining: a quick wash with the sonus (very diluted) and a couple of layers of P21S. B)

after about a month or two you will probably want the whole car flatted and mop polished again anyways so dont worry too much about the condition of the paint as it is now.

When i had mine re-sprayed in metalic black after about 4-5 weeks the paint shrinks a bit and you start to see more imperfections etc so they take 1500-2000 grit paper and flat the car and re-polish it.

i had them put 3-4 layers of clear coat on mine so you can keep buffing it back up to a shine.

Crikey! You don't do things by halves do you? :P

I'll keep a look out for shrinkage/imperfections in the coming weeks - cheers!

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