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Boot Lid Needs Vi*gra


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Ya i read in an old post that Altezza springs are stronger.... but mine were never that strong... boot just popped up slightly...

Since fitting a rear boot spoiler it only un-latches....

Anybody know of any aftermarket gas struts to do the job..???

BTW... did you get permission from Kazi to copy his avartar... :P

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Hi,

It used to go up when it was new, but now i've used it a lot, it barely goes up 1mm :crybaby:

Any ideas on how to get it up again? :lol:

(Remote opening from the keyfob i mean!)

I had mine replaced once under warranty, which did the trick, but then they died down after a while and now only lift half way again - as your cars an '04' it should be no problem :winky:

As someone said, there are also the stronger springs they fit to cars with spoilers, but if your car has no spoiler, this is really quite violent, and has been known to hit the rear windscreen (and possibly crack it if its windy) which is a risk I wouldn't really be willing to take

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Thanks for your feedback. :D

The boot-lid came with the spolier and the lid used to open all the way when new, :) but over time its 'pop-up' strength has become less and less. :tomato:

I clean the rubber seal around the boot opening area and all other visable parts connected with the boot-lid hinges, but this makes no difference. Its weird how those metal bars in the boot actually compose any sort of tention anyway, can anybody enlighten? :hehe:

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it took me no more than 15 mins browsing the RS catalogue to find the right gas strut and 15 min to mount it in the boot to make mine gas operated!!

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it took me no more than 15 mins browsing the RS catalogue to find the right gas strut and 15 min to mount it in the boot to make mine gas operated!!

Please enlighten use further oh wise one........ :)

Piccys?

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it took me no more than 15 mins browsing the RS catalogue to find the right gas strut and 15 min to mount it in the boot to make mine gas operated!!

Please enlighten use further oh wise one........ :)

Piccys?

Unfortunately last time i tried to help people by showing them how the thread was deemed as a trading post and was closed down even though i was just telling people where they could buy the bits.

All i can say is that you attach one end to the curved part of the boot lifting arm, and the other goes onto the back wall of the boot using a right angled bracket securely fixed.

measure the length from these two points open and closed and this will give you the maximum extension and max length of the damper.

from here you will need to buy a adjustable gas pressure strut as it needs very little pressure to open up as all it does is assist the springs.

The cost for 2 x dampers from the rs catalogue came to £50, i then opted for 2 x rose joints to replace the plastic items it origionaly came with at about £4 each.

make sure that when you mount the rear of the damper that it is lower than the closed position of the arm at which you will mount the other end otherwise you may get a lock out under the wrong conditions. it only has to be about 1" lower

i think that you will find that this will solve all the problems

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The boot-lid came with the spolier and the lid used to open all the way when new, :) but over time its 'pop-up' strength has become less and less. :tomato:

I think the design of the springs (as in not very good design) means that over time they become weaker - its only a short term fix but I'd recommend getting them replaced under warranty while you can

Unfortunately last time i tried to help people by showing them how the thread was deemed as a trading post and was closed down even though i was just telling people where they could buy the bits.

All i can say is that you attach one end to the curved part of the boot lifting arm, and the other goes onto the back wall of the boot using a right angled bracket securely fixed.

measure the length from these two points open and closed and this will give you the maximum extension and max length of the damper.

from here you will need to buy a adjustable gas pressure strut as it needs very little pressure to open up as all it does is assist the springs.

The cost for 2 x dampers from the rs catalogue came to £50, i then opted for 2 x rose joints to replace the plastic items it origionaly came with at about £4 each.

make sure that when you mount the rear of the damper that it is lower than the closed position of the arm at which you will mount the other end otherwise you may get a lock out under the wrong conditions. it only has to be about 1" lower

i think that you will find that this will solve all the problems

I've wanted this ever since you posted it up, it's a shame it came across negative remarks as I think there were quite a few people who wanted this too

Any chance you could post up some pics of how it looks installed to get an idea of what's fixed to what and how? :)

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unfortunately its all hidden behind my audio install.

here is the breakdown

www.rswww.com

RS Stock no: 234-449

Var press gas spring,440mm L 6mm rod diameter.

you only need one of them, but you have to buy 2, why not go halves with another member or keep one for spare.

2 x M5 female Rod Eye connectors.

A few different M5 nuts and bolts (bolts need at least 30mm of thread.

for a start use the hole in the arm itself on the right hand side, run a nut and bolt through there to hold the rod eye and thin end of the gas strut.

Make a bracket at the back from 25mm right angled aluminium stock.

use this to screw it with self drilling screws to the back of the seat and then attach the other end of the rod.

release most of the pressure out of this damper as it is way too powerful as standard and will seriously make your boot open too quickly and risk damage.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just did this on mine - thanks to TheDon for the details.

Very easy, I just used the gas strut as-is, comes with two types of end and I didn't bother buying any extra ends. And I just found a blanking plate in the office which I modified to use as a bracket, then used a few nuts, bolts, washers and screws I had kicking about. Only drilling required was two self-tappers into the back of the rear seat bulkhead, already a hole for the bolt on the other end. I just need to adjust the plastic carpet thing covering the bulkhead so the bracket is hidden but the strut can pop out from it.

Still does bounce a little bit at the top when it opens (does not come up quite as slowly or controlled as I would like) but I don't think I can release much more gas. But it does open the boot fine which was the idea. :D

I can prob post some pics if anyone is interested.

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Yep. Pics please! :D

O.k., not the greatest of photos but...

Here is the strut attached to the existing hole in one of the boot loop things (on the right-hand side in my car):

loop_1.jpg

loop_2.jpg

Here is the bracket attached to the bulkhead behind the plastic "carpet" sheet:

bracket.jpg

And here it is with the "carpet" back in place with cutout:

finished.jpg

Actually, seeing that first pic and the bump-stop pad against the loop has given me an idea - I may try glueing a spring or maybe just a foam pad or something to the bump stop/s to dampen the last bit of the boot opening and stop the "bounce".

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looks exactly the same way i did it, glad it worked for you.

As for the rate of speed that it opens at, you can release a lot more air from it, and if you rotate the shaft it slows the rate at which it extends

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and if you rotate the shaft it slows the rate at which it extends

Ahh, I didn't know that, maybe i'll try that then.

As for putting more back in Noel - not a chance - it's nitrogen filled and if you let too much out then thats that. If you do do it, I suggest letting out enough air so you can compress it, then fit and let out small amounts of air inbetween testing it until its about right.

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It is definately a case of trialing different pressures.

about 1 second bursts after an initial 10 second release is sufficiant

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