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Is200tt Soon Back In Business...


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OK, I just might get my baby back up and running still this summer... :winky:

All the parts are now back from the workshop, but the engine still needs to be put back together. :duh:

What goes in:

- ROSS Racing forged turbo use pistons

- overbored block for the .5 oversize pistons

- forged H-profile conrods

- forged, straightened and balanced crankshaft

- JUN lightened flywheel

- Helix clutch

All the moving and revolving parts have been balanced to within 0.1g tolerance, also the valve seats have been radiused for better sealing.

After the brake-in (and MOT), in goes also a thicker custom made laser cut headgasket (to lower the compression ratio from 10:1 to little under 9:1 (I have a few spare ones if someone is interested PM me)) and bigger injectors, and then MOOOORE BOOOOOOOOSTT!!!! :D With this setup I'm after for something like ~350hp. :driving:

I'll try to take some pictures when I get to the engine rebuilding -part.

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If you need a replace engine.... PM me. :lol:

Just joking, with the modifications you wrote above it should hold that power. :winky:

Maybe you should make some thought about the clutch and transmission. :tomato:

350BHP and just 145mph top speed..... :crybaby: well, with a rev limit at 8000rpm you can hit far more top speed. B)

This a hardcore modded IS, WOW CONGRATS!! :whistling: :winky:

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Thank you for the kind words, gentlemen! :)

And if I find that the output is not enough, the exhaust manifold flanges are done such a way, that one size bigger turbos are a bolt-on job. Two pieces of those 04's should be enough to put out figures starting with 5... :whistling::shifty:

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Thank you for the kind words, gentlemen! :)

And if I find that the output is not enough, the exhaust manifold flanges are done such a way, that one size bigger turbos are a bolt-on job. Two pieces of those 04's should be enough to put out figures starting with 5... :whistling::shifty:

Not to destroy your dreams, but u're sure you have the right car for this power output?? :winky:

At least the right engine and transmission..... :tomato:

I wouldn't even hit the 400BHP mark, if you ask me.

Or didn't you get teached by your engine blow? :shutit:

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Not to destroy your dreams, but u're sure you have the right car for this power output?? :winky:

At least the right engine and transmission..... :tomato:

That was my FIRST thought Roadrash! I've seen several projects derailed because of failed transmissions. I'm very impressed, speechless even, with the power squeezed out of his 1GFE, but I'll be 5 times as impressed if the tranny holds up. :driving: This is exactly why I've delayed modding my Tezza, I'm still uncertain as to the strength of my tranny. For this reason alone I've been considering a complete engine+tranny swap or ... *cough, cough* getting myself another car :tomato:

Keep us all posted tho, I'm really keen to see how well the tranny holds up :D

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Not to destroy your dreams, but u're sure you have the right car for this power output?? :winky:

At least the right engine and transmission..... :tomato:

That was my FIRST thought Roadrash! I've seen several projects derailed because of failed transmissions. I'm very impressed, speechless even, with the power squeezed out of his 1GFE, but I'll be 5 times as impressed if the tranny holds up. :driving: This is exactly why I've delayed modding my Tezza, I'm still uncertain as to the strength of my tranny. For this reason alone I've been considering a complete engine+tranny swap or ... *cough, cough* getting myself another car :tomato:

Keep us all posted tho, I'm really keen to see how well the tranny holds up :D

Well, modifying a car and get some more power out of it is OKAY.

Transmissions, at all MANUAL transmissions for RWD cars, are built pretty robust and can take about

twice of the stock power output with keeping its normal life time.

But everything is limited.

And 500BHP would kill everything on the car in the drive train, if not immediately, then at least time by time. :o

If somebody would ask me, I would give the hint to stay under 400BHP.

The IS200 transmission is anyway so short, so I don't think a 500BHP IS200 would be quicker than a 300BHP IS200, as you would have serious troubles to get the power down on the ground. :winky:

Just my opinion!

If you want a +500HP drag car, buy a Supra, Skyline, Viper, Corvette or something. B)

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Bad news. I've come across a setback. There has been mistake in manufacturing the conrods. The conrods' lower "eye" which attaches to the crankshaft is too wide. It's maximum outer measurement is 77mm, whereas the cylinder's bore is 75mm... So, without grinding 1mm off of each rods' "cheeks" they wont fit into cylinders. :crybaby: :tsktsk:

I sent them back to be machined, let's see the outcome...

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Bad news. I've come across a setback. There has been mistake in manufacturing the conrods. The conrods' lower "eye" which attaches to the crankshaft is too wide. It's maximum outer measurement is 77mm, whereas the cylinder's bore is 75mm... So, without grinding 1mm off of each rods' "cheeks" they wont fit into cylinders. :crybaby: :tsktsk:

I sent them back to be machined, let's see the outcome...

Guess you meant the pistons?!? :unsure:

Don't know if you would be happy with 75mm conrods?!? :shutit:

This is bad, hope they will fix that problem for free. :angry:

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Guess you meant the pistons?!? :unsure:

Don't know if you would be happy with 75mm conrods?!? :shutit:

This is bad, hope they will fix that problem for free. :angry:

No, I meant the CONRODS.

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but the conrods lower eye doesnt go into the cylinders during the cycle - that would mean the crankshaft would also go into the cylinder during rotation, which is impossible.

think you have made a mistake somewhere

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but the conrods lower eye doesnt go into the cylinders during the cycle - that would mean the crankshaft would also go into the cylinder during rotation, which is impossible.

That's why I was wondering if he confused rod / piston. :winky:

I think they wanted to put the piston with rod from the top into the block, which would be the easiest way

to install internals.

You don't need to remove the crank shaft. :winky:

So now they will have to put them in from bottom, means remove the engine, remove crank shaft, put the internals in the block, install the crank shaft and close the lower eye from rod to crank. :yawn:

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but the conrods lower eye doesnt go into the cylinders during the cycle - that would mean the crankshaft would also go into the cylinder during rotation, which is impossible.

I know. That's not the problem.

That's why I was wondering if he confused rod / piston. :winky:

I think they wanted to put the piston with rod from the top into the block, which would be the easiest way

to install internals.

You don't need to remove the crank shaft. :winky:

That's the easiest AND hardest way at the same time, because it's the ONLY way to put the piston and rod into the cylinder. And the crank shaft is already removed as is everything else as well, because the engine has been totally dis-assembled for the machining.

So now they will have to put them in from bottom, means remove the engine, remove crank shaft, put the internals in the block, install the crank shaft and close the lower eye from rod to crank. :yawn:

It cannot be done that way. The crank shaft bearing housings (I don't know the correct term, sorry) are on the way. Because the distance between two crank shaft bearing housings is less than the bore of the block, the piston doesn't have enough room to fit from the bottom.

And the bearing housings are also the reason why it cannot be put together in such a way that the piston is put from the top and the rod from the bottom, because the piston doesn't go deep enough for the piston pin to be put into place...

Hope this helps to get a picture of the problem in hand.

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Which diameter do your new piston have (without ring)?

But this seems pretty annoying, that a 2mm bigger rod doesn't fit. :duh:

You could prepare the rods, cut 1mm away on each side, this should work.

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Which diameter do your new piston have (without ring)?

But this seems pretty annoying, that a 2mm bigger rod doesn't fit. :duh:

You could prepare the rods, cut 1mm away on each side, this should work.

:whistling:

|

V

Bad news. I've come across a setback. There has been mistake in manufacturing the conrods. The conrods' lower "eye" which attaches to the crankshaft is too wide. It's maximum outer measurement is 77mm, whereas the cylinder's bore is 75mm... So, without grinding 1mm off of each rods' "cheeks" they wont fit into cylinders. :crybaby: :tsktsk:

I sent them back to be machined, let's see the outcome...

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  • 4 months later...

FINALLY something good seems to be coming to my way also!

At last the guy who assembled the engine has had enough time to finnish it. The chassis has also been towed to the garage for the new engine to be put in!!! :hehe::hehe::hehe:

It's SUPPOSED to take 1-2 weeks, but I've learned my lesson during this project, so I'm still not holding my breath yet... :yawn:

The "spec sheet" is basically the same as it was in the very first post of this thread, but I added ceramic coating to the pistons for them to better withstand heat and knocking, and also a Cusco 1.5-way LSD is going in.

Try to keep you posted.

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Once I got the right guys to do the job, things are moving on a swift pace... The engine's already in place, and as I write the "auxiliaries" (alternator, power steering pump, etc) are being fitted. The rear axle has also been removed because of the LSD being fitted. They said that it should be ready for the first start tomorrow! :hehe:

I just may be able to drive my baby next week first time in over a year! :driving: First we put some mineral oil in for the run-in and "bedding", after that we change to high-grade synthetic. Sorry, no piccies...

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