Is200tt Soon Back In Business...

[aido]

Fantastic news, bet you can't wait to get back behind the wheel again!

Good luck mate :)

[Obsessed]

Sounds good

I believe it will be the first IS200 to put out over 300BHP without engine swap!!!

Well done:-)

In the UK..

The J160 should be good for around 400-450. Dont worry about the tranny, It will hold up..Mine only got stuck in gear once and after years of driving and I think that was due to a crappy gear change. And I didnt drive like a granny either. I sold the gearbox with the motor and the box was perfect. . I have seen sprinters with the same box with more power.. And they are used as drift cars..

This is not saying your box will stand up to slicks and a decent launch at the track.. Although I have seen and witnessed many cars that have.. I am saying it will stand up to what you dish out on the road and everyday use.

My car made a fraction under 400HP at the flywheel @ 18psi before I sold it the motor to make room for the current set up :D (Waste gate didnt allow me to boost any higher and I then sold it before I fixed it.) Motor was good for 450-500hp once sorted.

I bet your looking forward to getting the car back together and having a drive.. Nice work.

[Bazza]

Sounds good

I believe it will be the first IS200 to put out over 300BHP without engine swap!!!

Well done:-)

In the UK..

actually finland isnt in the uk :winky:

[Obsessed]

Sounds good

I believe it will be the first IS200 to put out over 300BHP without engine swap!!!

Well done:-)

In the UK..

actually finland isnt in the uk :winky:

Sorry I didnt know where he was from since this is a UK based forum.. I will be more direct with my responces next time. Let me rephrase it for you then..

Not the 1st :winky:

[Bazza]

Sounds good

I believe it will be the first IS200 to put out over 300BHP without engine swap!!!

Well done:-)

In the UK..

actually finland isnt in the uk :winky:

Sorry I didnt know where he was from since this is a UK based forum.. I will be more direct with my responces next time. Let me rephrase it for you then..

Not the 1st :winky:

great response :D

[SpOcK]

In the UK..

The J160 should be good for around 400-450. Dont worry about the tranny, It will hold up..Mine only got stuck in gear once and after years of driving and I think that was due to a crappy gear change. And I didnt drive like a granny either. I sold the gearbox with the motor and the box was perfect. . I have seen sprinters with the same box with more power.. And they are used as drift cars..

This is not saying your box will stand up to slicks and a decent launch at the track.. Although I have seen and witnessed many cars that have.. I am saying it will stand up to what you dish out on the road and everyday use.

My car made a fraction under 400HP at the flywheel @ 18psi before I sold it the motor to make room for the current set up :D (Waste gate didnt allow me to boost any higher and I then sold it before I fixed it.) Motor was good for 450-500hp once sorted.

I bet your looking forward to getting the car back together and having a drive.. Nice work.

I think I have to be the first to put out over 400hp without an engine swap, then... :D At least in Finland.

And thanks for the assurance about the gbox. I'm not planning on using slicks, neither it is a track car. Just everyday cruising.

I just ordered the last bits and bobs for to be able to complete the LSD installation, and there's still radiator and manifold to be installed. Then it should be all sorted out.

Unfortunately after that there's still that :tsktsk: fight with the Finnish authorities to pass all the required tests and MOT to keep my car street legal...

[Adie]

That is reassuring that the gear box should be ok with 400 bhp :D

[SpOcK]

The misfortune and bad karma hovering around my project doesn't seem to come to an end! :tsktsk:

Everything was already put together, and all that was missing to be able to start the engine first time was all the fluids (coolant, motor and gbox oils, etc). When the guys at the garage began to pour the coolant into the engine, it started dripping onto the floor from between the block and gbox. Only way to tell where it came from, was to remove the gbox, clutch and flywheel... The guilty turned out to be the water cap/plug (the ones which are supposed to pop out should the fluids inside the block freeze) behind the flywheel. And not only the plug, but also a (hair)fracture running ~3cm onwards from the side of the plug's hole!

Because the block is cast iron, it's almost impossible to weld, and it wouldn't be wise either, because welding (ultimate heat targeted only to a small area) could warp the block. Because at this point my funds wouldn't allow me to begin the whole process from the square one and spend at least 3.000 euros more, we agreed on trying to fix the fracture.

They welded a nut on the cap and drilled a threaded hole to the point where the fracture had gone to keep it from advancing more. Then they grinded of some material from either "wall" of the fracture to make more contact surface for the chemical metal (not sure about the correct term?). Then they "baked a cake" of chemical metal over the grinded "valley" and connected the welded nut and the threaded hole with bolts and a brace.

The first attempt didn't hold and the coolant dripped onto the floor once again. The removed the "cake" and did it again with some other chemical material. This time they got it to hold. But only to discover that the water circulation hoses for the turbos and their joints (these where fabricated in the past when the turbos where first installed) where now leaking. Once again they had to drain the coolant and fix the joints.

Once they got the coolant to hold in the engine, they started to pour the oils in, only to discover that almost at the same pace as the engineer was pouring the oil into the engine, it dripped almost onto his shoes from the bottom of the engine! :megaangry:

This time it turned out to be the mis-treated oil pan and the opening to the oil level sensor on the side of the pan. At some point during the process someone had used too long bolts for the level sensor, so the bolts had penetrated into the pan and popped the reinforcement plate from its weldings and now the oil leaked from between the plate and the pan.

This project has reached a point where I'm minutes away from pushing that POS down from a cliff, claim the insurance money, and buy myself a bicycle... :tsktsk: :tsktsk: :tsktsk:

[RX-Men-8]

I'm very sorry for you, mate. I can imagine this puts a lot of extra worries in your life, but don't lose sleep over it. When all is set right you'll be even more satisfied. ;)

Hang in there - another day another insight and another plan.

[DAZA_W]

keep at it mate it will all be worth it i am sure

[RoadRash]

Feel so sorry for you M8!!

There are many kinds of deaths for our cars....

If you need something like engine or transmission.... I still have them, if you need.

Mike

[Adie]

Sorry to hear this Sami. But as the guys have said, keep your chin up mate and it'll come good in the end :winky:

[aido]

That's terrible news for you mate, sounds like you're having a nightmare here!

Don't rush into any hasty decisions, like Adie says, you might come up with another paln of attack in a few days so I'll keep my fingers crossed that you will get her running again!

[SpOcK]

At LAST something good came up!

I got a call this morning that they'd started the engine for the very first time!!!

And even better, all the fluids seem to hold inside the engine...

They didn't let the engine to warm up to the normal operating temperature yet, though. It was just to see whether it would even start in the first place, and if it would make any weird irrelevant noises, etc... They said it started straight on the very first go, and purred steadily like a cat! Today they're going to run her warm, and see if everything still holds.

But keeping this project's history in mind, maybe I shouldn't get too excited just yet...

[Adie]

Fingers crossed for you mate. :luck:

[Ellz]

Sounds good fella i love the way that everything over your bit of the world gets done pretty quick everything over here takes an age

[SpOcK]

Today just may be the day...

The only things that still need to be done are, one hose for the oil breathing system (correct term?), and the front bumper to be put back on. Then running the engine properly warm, and then For the first time in over a year!!!

But I have to hold my horses and calm myself to first get the run-in done thoroughly...

I'll let you know how it goes.

[MacRS200]

Great news mate :D

[SpOcK]

Oh, F*ck me! Just got another call from the garage.

They'd let the car run till it reached proper operation temperature, and guess what, they got CEL. And not only CEL, but also the TRC OFF light was blinking, indicating that it was not just a "minor error"... But they also said that the engine still seemed to run normally...?

If my memory serves me right, there was also some "poor man's" way to read the CEL, other than paying a visit to the Lexus dealer? I guess it involved short circuiting some pins of the diagnose port, and then counting the blinks the CEL, or something like that...? Anyone knows the correct procedure? I have the service manuals, which I guess, contains the listing of the error codes.

Someone please help, I'm loosing my mind! :tsktsk:

[Adie]

Might be a coil pack mate.

[SpOcK]

Might be a coil pack mate.

I have one spare coil pack, but I'd still first need to be able to read the trouble code, to know whether it even is the coil pack and which to replace.

EDIT: and if it was a coil pack, then the engine obviously wouldn't run on all cylinders, but the the guys from the garage said that the engine runs seemingly normal...

[Adie]

Most of the time it seems to be a coil pack when this happens. When mine went I could see which one it was by the bottom of it being black instead of grey. Mine was cylinder 6 (the one nearest the windscreen). This is the most common one to go so check that first.

[SpOcK]

Most of the time it seems to be a coil pack when this happens. When mine went I could see which one it was by the bottom of it being black instead of grey. Mine was cylinder 6 (the one nearest the windscreen). This is the most common one to go so check that first.

OK, thanks for the tip, mate! I'll check that.

But still, I'd like to get the codes read. Anyone knows how to do this?

[DAZA_W]

you can clear codes by leaving Battery of then try coil packs

the only way to read codes to my nolige is with a OBD2 reader ( i think thats what it is called)

[Adie]

you can clear codes by leaving battery of then try coil packs

the only way to read codes to my nolige is with a OBD2 reader ( i think thats what it is called)

Same as above. To my knowledge a OBD2