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Does anybody know if there is a way to add anything onto the standard alarm to close windows automatically when arming the alarm?

there are modules for aftermarket alarms but thought somebody on here may have found a way to do this from standard??

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I don't think theres instructions on the forum to close the windows automatically. theres instructions to close the mirrors but i haven't seen window instructions.

The way i'm trying to do it at the moment is to get one of the units off Ebay which uses the same trigger wire and the mirror closure unit. Problem is finding one that doesn't close the windows one at once and a seller that won't lie to you about it.

Grrr

Stav

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I don't think theres instructions on the forum to close the windows automatically. theres instructions to close the mirrors but i haven't seen window instructions.

The way i'm trying to do it at the moment is to get one of the units off Ebay which uses the same trigger wire and the mirror closure unit. Problem is finding one that doesn't close the windows one at once and a seller that won't lie to you about it.

Grrr

Stav

agree..

I cant find any info on auto window closer, but remember seeing mirrors.

If you find one then please share!!!!

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to do this, i have used a toad window closure module, becuase of the is200 electronics you have to feed two wires into each door, and cutt the original postive up window wire and put the two wires from the module there. for the trigger you use the output which is described in the side mirror instructions on here, done mine over a year ago and works fine.

the toad window module was about £40 to buy.

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Right - this can be done very easily with the existing mirror closure if you are prepared to run cables into the doors.

This will close all windows at once. The reason most commercial add-on ones don't is because the windows can take quite a high current as they meet resistance of being closed. Doing it one-by-one allows the main feed to be a lot lower.

I never released it as an add on because the cogs in some of the IS200 are nylon against metal and the passenger windows current sensing isn't that good, so I wasn't sure of the long term reliability. I can say however that worked perfectly in my car for 3 and a half years and many have installed the add on modules from ebay with no problem. I just don't want to leave myself wide open to abuse. (One person even accused me of wearing out his mirror motor because of the closure!!). I take no responsibility if you wish to do this on your car. A reasonable amount of knowledge is required so you can see how it works. If in doubt - DON'T. Always double check connections and meter polarity before installing. NEVER bypass the fuse.

All you need are a couple of double pole relays, rated around 10A or above. You will need to find or put in a new heavy feed of around 40A as all windows close at the same time and at the point the are closed, for a second or two the current shoots up to around 7-8A per window, possibly more.

On the mirror closure unit you will need to tap off the coil feed of the relay. You can't tap off the output to the mirrors as this would cause the windows to close if you manually control the mirrors.

You will also need to adjust the time the closure is active for. You can do this by adjusting the pot (RV1), or resistor between pins 7 of the IC and positive if you had an early circuit. Roughly double it. (around 200k). This won't affect the mirors as they are current sensing and cut off anyway.

Once you have this timed feed, you simply connect to 2 double pole changover relays. (You can use a single 4 pole but it works out pretty expensive.)

Then connect up as the circuit below. Break into the feed that is positive when the windows are going up. You will have to meter the window motors for UP operation polarity. The loom side to the relay normally closed, the motor side to the common of the relay.

The relays keep the existing connection as per factory until the unit is triggered which then applies a positive onto one side of the window motor. The other side will be negative with the ignition off.

* NOTE - if you set the alarm while still in the car, before opening the door to get out and then press the down button of the drivers window within 30 secs, (unlikely I know) it will blow the fuse. A 30 second lockout could be built in if necessary.

Also, while the unit is timing, if the winodws are already UP then it will be relying solely on the Lexus current sensing to shut off before the timed period is up. This was another reason I never released it.

The reason there is a variation in fuses (10-15A), is because I noticed this between cars.

Its all up to you. Enjoy!

full.JPG

:offtopic: Nice to hear from you Geof. :) :) :)

Thanks Mate :D

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Welcome back.

Heard a lot about you and thank you very much for the advice!

Cheers mate.

I bet you are the first to try it!

Already got some relays hanging about and i can nick off my main Amp feed for the high current feed.

Bloody parents Anniversary tonite though so it'll have to be tomorrow!

Stav

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Just like to say welcome back to geoffers and a big THANK YOU! :D

although i never met you, some of your posts have been very helpful to me.

I would like to try this on mine, but you lost me at

'All you need are a couple of double pole relays, rated around 10A or above. You will need to find or put in a new heavy feed of around 40A as all windows close at the same time and at the point the are closed, for a second or two the current shoots up to around 7-8A per window, possibly more.'

:o :lol:

i will wait til stav has done his and have a gander at the nw meet. :blush:

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Just like to say welcome back to geoffers and a big THANK YOU! :D

although i never met you, some of your posts have been very helpful to me.

I would like to try this on mine, but you lost me at

'All you need are a couple of double pole relays, rated around 10A or above. You will need to find or put in a new heavy feed of around 40A as all windows close at the same time and at the point the are closed, for a second or two the current shoots up to around 7-8A per window, possibly more.'

:o :lol:

i will wait til stav has done his and have a gander at the nw meet. :blush:

:lol::lol::lol: Cheers mate

It sounds worse than it is. Really all you do is just connect the red wire type stuff to the clicky thingiess but I wanted to make it sound good.

.

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yeah i really want to do this aswell to my car but i get so confused with the wiring and instructions. lol. would also like the pulsing rear lights and auto folding mirrors and sunroof.

dont know if anyone is intrested but id be willing to drive wherever to have this all done if a member that knows how to perform such tasks is intrested in doing it to my car for some cash? just name ur price!!!!

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I am the same its all a little confusing to me so i have printed it all off and im going to take it to my auto electrician and see if he can give me a price tomorrow i will let you all know what he says.How long should it take to do sunroof,windows and mirrors?

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Can the sunroof be done in the same way as the windows?

I'm afraid not. This is because you must apply a close signal for the tilt, and a close for the slide (as there is no return signal to say which mode it is in)

They can't be done at the same time (as it cancels itself out and does nothing) and just to be more infuriating, there needs to be a slight delay between tilt/slide signals.

What you need to do is put the sunroof ECU into live as the ignition is off. Then you must have an o/c on the tilt and slide part of the ECU for 800ms. You must apply a negative on the tilt for 6 seconds, then hold off (above ground) for at least 800ms then apply a negative to the slide. This can be done with a 4017 decade counter.

You also need to build in something that will detect the ignition being switched on because if you left the car, then remembered something and jumped straight back in, the unit would still be timing and the ECU gets a bit upset.

I hope to be back up to speed shortly doing the sunroof/mirror closures and the audio aux inputs which will be available through Prolex.

.

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Can the sunroof be done in the same way as the windows?

I'm afraid not. This is because you must apply a close signal for the tilt, and a close for the slide (as there is no return signal to say which mode it is in)

They can't be done at the same time (as it cancels itself out and does nothing) and just to be more infuriating, there needs to be a slight delay between tilt/slide signals.

What you need to do is put the sunroof ECU into live as the ignition is off. Then you must have an o/c on the tilt and slide part of the ECU for 800ms. You must apply a negative on the tilt for 6 seconds, then hold off (above ground) for at least 800ms then apply a negative to the slide. This can be done with a 4017 decade counter.

You also need to build in something that will detect the ignition being switched on because if you left the car, then remembered something and jumped straight back in, the unit would still be timing and the ECU gets a bit upset.

I hope to be back up to speed shortly doing the sunroof/mirror closures and the audio aux inputs which will be available through Prolex.

.

Any chance of a kit with a wiring guide in oics that we could buy maybe??

one for windows and one for the mirrors??

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Any chance of a kit with a wiring guide in oics that we could buy maybe??

one for windows and one for the mirrors??

I'll be getting back to the mirrors and sunroof mirrors soon, but not doing the windows.

Only because of the factors stated above. Maybe when there are loads on the road and have been tested for a reasonable length of time, but until then I'm afraid not.

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