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Hi all,

My company has kindly bought for me a proper car kit for my phone. With it comes an installation voucher, but I'd rather fit the thing myself than have some so-called professional come along and scratch hell out of the dash etc. Besides which, I work all over the country and it's hard to predict where I'll be in a week's time!

I need to source a permanent live, an earth and a switched live power point for this kit - it has an inline fuse so I'm not worried about that, but what would be the best place to take the power?

I'm thinking that the power lead that goes to the clock might be good for permanent power, and the cigarette lighter for switched power, but then the stereo might be a good place to look, as it has both switched and permanent power to it, plus an earth. But if I pull it out (I've found the instructions on here) what cables should I look to splice into? Has anyone done this before?

Finally it has a mute lead you can use to quieten the stereo when the phone rings - my GS has the simpler style of stereo (as opposed to the touchscreen Navigator type). I think these just connect to a terminal marked suitably on the back of the stereo, but I don't know if the stereo supports this!

cheers,

Mike

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i would come of the cigarette light for power as it will switch off when you tunr off the ignition. i wired lots of neons off the ones in my old civic and it was fine with the extra resistance.

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Well I've fitted it - and it's gone in very nicely even if I do say so myself!!

I removed the ashtray, and clock/vent assembly from above the stereo, and then unbolted and removed the stereo and climate control unit.. One advantage to having separate amplifiers is that the head unit is much lighter than on an all-in-one unit, helpful when struggling to remove the cables from the back of it! After pulling out the plugs to the stereo and getting busy with the voltmeter, I quickly identified an earth, a permanent 12V, and a switched 12V supply. Handily, all 3 were on the same plug and all 3 had about 4 inches of individual wires before the plug, so chopping them and splicing in the 3 leads for the car kit was easy.

Whilst the 3 components were out that central area of the dash, I fitted the leads for the car kit's display, microphone and speaker unit - the speaker is attached above the pedals, the mic at the top of the A-pillar and the display attached to the bottom right corner of the windscreen. Cabling them was easy - pushed gently into the gaps between the trim, and cable-tied up out the way above the pedals.

Whilst the clock and vent unit was out, I noticed a couple of inches of space above the feeder pipes from the heater, so I managed to cable-tie al the excess wire up neatly and poke it in there, along with the box. It's a bit of a tight squeeze getting it all in but it's in there neatly, and the control box and cables are now invisible. The only bits of the kit showing are the screen, the mic and the little box with buttons to end call, access the phonebook etc - at the moment that's just sitting in the cup holder but I will purchase a dashmount bracket and put it on that, to neaten that up as well. I will probably purchase a leather dashmount bracket to put the phone itself in, they do look quite smart, and look almost 'OE' quality.

All in all I'm very pleased with it, the Bluetooth connection to the phone works fine (there is only a bit of plastic between it and the interior of the car) and the whole system seems to work quite nicely. Plus there are no scratches on the mint interior of my car, and no screwholes anywhere!! B)

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