Problems With Supercharger

[Unregistered_User]

Hi there everyone,

I am still having trouble with the supercharger installation in the following ways:

• EVERY morning the car rattles pretty loudly but once warmed up, it seems ok. At the recent-ish JAE 2007, some of the LOC lads helped to sort this by tightening the belt? However, within a week it was doing the same thing again. I have tried to tighten the belt with a friend but it simply won't stop! This also happens whenever the car has been stood for some time and is cold.
  

• Number two is that the bypass valve is constantly sticking open and is making a horrid rasping sound - that doesn't sound pleasant. The only way I sort this is by stopping the car, opening the bonnet and flicking the bypass valve back across. On the way back from the LOC Blackpool event, The bypass valve stuck open and I had to acceleration whatsoever - everytime I put my foot down to accelerate, the car decelerated. I had to stick the hazards on and pull onto the hard shoulder to fix the problem.
  

Can anyone help me please?

Dave of Prolex-UK, can you help please?

Jamie

[Rob]

first is the belt loose again?? and have you checked if all the mounting bolts for the cradle and supercharger are tight. check the support bar that runs from the cradle to the back of the engine as this can snap at the cradle attachment

for the bypass valve move it by hand and see at what point it is sticking and where - look at the bypass spring as this has caused problems before for people - but i have not had any probs in the last 4 years with the new style spring

[Gord]

1. car rattles or supercharger ?

2. spring not fitted right, from when you fitted it @ the Bolton meet or have you put it right ?

[Rob]

1. car rattles or supercharger ?

2. spring not fitted right, from when you fitted it @ the Bolton meet or have you put it right ?

yes jamie - this is all of course assuming that you have fitted the spring etc correctly - have you??

[sparkystav]

The problem is the bottom of the lever scraping the body of the bypass. You can see the score marks.

Stav

[Gord]

The problem is the bottom of the lever scraping the body of the bypass. You can see the score marks.

Stav

Yer, but did he change the thick washer for another one ????

[sparkystav]

At the top, below the pin and above the spring? i believe so?

Maybe that ones too thick and pushing it down?

Stav

[Gord]

At the top, below the pin and above the spring? i believe so?

Maybe that ones too thick and pushing it down?

Stav

The one at the top was to thick, Jamie tryed messing about with it, if he has not changed, then this will have pushed it down, and may have put scrap/marked the body of the bypass ??

[aztecbandit1]

At the top, below the pin and above the spring? i believe so?

Maybe that ones too thick and pushing it down?

Stav

The one at the top was to thick, Jamie tryed messing about with it, if he has not changed, then this will have pushed it down, and may have put scrap/marked the body of the bypass ??

I was looking at it on Sunday at the meet and its scraping quite a bit on the bypass housing? it seems to be pushed down quite a bit and not very smooth running is there a way of putting a thin nylon washer underneath the bypass arm and a thinner washer above where the spring is fitted or would that cause more problems??

[Gord]

At the top, below the pin and above the spring? i believe so?

Maybe that ones too thick and pushing it down?

Stav

The one at the top was to thick, Jamie tryed messing about with it, if he has not changed, then this will have pushed it down, and may have put scrap/marked the body of the bypass ??

I was looking at it on Sunday at the meet and its scraping quite a bit on the bypass housing? it seems to be pushed down quite a bit and not very smooth running is there a way of putting a thin nylon washer underneath the bypass arm and a thinner washer above where the spring is fitted or would that cause more problems??

The problem was, and im not sure if its been sorted, is that the top washer is to thick.

If its now been sorted, he may need to take it all off again, get some wet/dry and smooth the bypass housing again, so it dont catch.

[aztecbandit1]

It did look like quite a think washer on it matey it had a lot of score marks in it and so did the housing,

[Gord]

It did look like quite a think washer on it matey it had a lot of score marks in it and so did the housing,

Thats what it looked like @ the Bolton meet(washer with score marks) dont look like he has changed it then, and now he has more problems to sort.

[Unregistered_User]

Ok, the rattle is exactly the same sound as before - as if the belt is loose. I have tried to tighten but sound still prevalent. Everything else seems intact and fine.

The bypass valve spring is the uprated version. I contacted Florian two weeks ago and he sent me a NEW set with a new washer and spring clip and the unit installed perfectly first time, unlike when we were all at the Bolton meet. I assume TTE must have adjusted the dimensions of the new setup as previously it appeared that it must have been machined incorrectly as it did not sit perfectly.

The washer is rather think, but it is the one that came supplied last week. Stav is correct though, there is a lot of "wear" on the housing directly below the lever.

Jamie

[Rob]

Number two is that the bypass valve is constantly sticking open

the bypass can not stick open it can only stick closed - the cable pulls the bypass closed and the spring returns it to the open position. As this is the case it is very strange that when u accelerate the car is slower as my old modified bypass made a huge difference in this exact situation (im not going into details of that).

Do you have any warning lights on??

have you checked the security of the cradle and the support arm?

if the belt is loose again you need to tighten it (do not overtighten it )and then make sure the tensioner bolt is tight - it was tight when i did it at JAE.

from other comments you obviously have an issue with the bypass arm catching on the housing - if you didnt have a problem with the old spring then the cause is down to an incorrect installation/fitment of the new spring - end of. Remove the cable from the bypass arm and then move the arm by hand and see where it is catching and WHY it is catching then resolve that issue

[Unregistered_User]

I did have a warning light on which Gord helped to diagnose. This turned out to be the "Air Intake Temperature Sensor" and seemed to be relevant to the sensor that plugs upwards into the air box. I haven't replaced this as yet.

The bypass setup was not installed incorrectly may I add.

Stav and I examined the setup and we noticed that the housing has a bit of play upwards and downwards (hopefully he can expand on that a little more?). It wasn't only my system that had this.

Jamie

[Dave-Ellen]

I did have a warning light on which Gord helped to diagnose. This turned out to be the "Air Intake Temperature Sensor" and seemed to be relevant to the sensor that plugs upwards into the air box. I haven't replaced this as yet.

The bypass setup was not installed incorrectly may I add.

Stav and I examined the setup and we noticed that the housing has a bit of play upwards and downwards (hopefully he can expand on that a little more?). It wasn't only my system that had this.

Jamie

Jamie - if you have any problems why don't you call steve and he will look at any "problem" you may have. Problem is if you start fiddling about it makes any sensible diagnosis more difficult

[Rsarin]

thats right mate Steve fitted it,so he's gonna be happy to help you-try not to fiddle too much.

I tried to fix my kettle yesterday and the bloody handle snapped off,should have just taken it back with the receipt.

[Rob]

I did have a warning light on which Gord helped to diagnose. This turned out to be the "Air Intake Temperature Sensor" and seemed to be relevant to the sensor that plugs upwards into the air box. I haven't replaced this as yet.

The bypass setup was not installed incorrectly may I add.

Stav and I examined the setup and we noticed that the housing has a bit of play upwards and downwards (hopefully he can expand on that a little more?). It wasn't only my system that had this.

Jamie

if you mean the bypass shaft - the bit the lever goes to then it does have a bit of end float( up and down movement)

[Gord]

thats right mate Steve fitted it,so he's gonna be happy to help you-try not to fiddle too much.

I tried to fix my kettle yesterday and the bloody handle snapped off,should have just taken it back with the receipt.

Just loving the kettle bit mate i can see you now

[Rsarin]

thats right mate Steve fitted it,so he's gonna be happy to help you-try not to fiddle too much.

I tried to fix my kettle yesterday and the bloody handle snapped off,should have just taken it back with the receipt.

Just loving the kettle bit mate i can see you now

i know im useless. :D

[Unregistered_User]

Sadly, Steve didn't fit it, his colleague did. I spoke to Steve a week ago and spoke to him about my trouble with the rattle. He seemed to have no idea what the problem could be other than a loose belt (which if it is, it is a reoccuring issue) or the loose plate on the front of the compressor.

But no, I haven't "fiddled" whatsoever, so that isn't anything to do with it.

I will try my best to sort something out with Steve but was hoping that the knowledge of others on here would possibly be enough rather than heading off to a garage. Seems to be a tradition that you consult the forums primarily.

[Rsarin]

Sadly, Steve didn't fit it, his colleague did. I spoke to Steve a week ago and spoke to him about my trouble with the rattle. He seemed to have no idea what the problem could be other than a loose belt (which if it is, it is a reoccuring issue) or the loose plate on the front of the compressor.

But no, I haven't "fiddled" whatsoever, so that isn't anything to do with it.

I will try my best to sort something out with Steve but was hoping that the knowledge of others on here would possibly be enough rather than heading off to a garage. Seems to be a tradition that you consult the forums primarily.

I appreciate that mate,its just that regardless of who fitted it within Charlesworth,Steve is still responsible for the fitting of the kit.Its his garage and he's the boss so you wont have an issue by going back to him.Also the problem should be looked at him early so that no one can accuse you of messing about with the install etc at a later date.I bet if you drive upto steve and he has half an hour with it he will be able to give you a diagnosis.Also if the problem is a big one and fairly significant then you are just kinda delaying the inevitable anyway,cos it will most probably have to go to Steve's anyway,i appreciate its easier and cheaper to consult the forum,its just not always that easy describing symptoms over the phone or in a message for people to be able to crack the problem,good luck with it all mate.

[Gord]

Sadly, Steve didn't fit it, his colleague did. I spoke to Steve a week ago and spoke to him about my trouble with the rattle. He seemed to have no idea what the problem could be other than a loose belt (which if it is, it is a reoccuring issue) or the loose plate on the front of the compressor.

But no, I haven't "fiddled" whatsoever, so that isn't anything to do with it.

I will try my best to sort something out with Steve but was hoping that the knowledge of others on here would possibly be enough rather than heading off to a garage. Seems to be a tradition that you consult the forums primarily.

1st, Simon has fitted more than your supercharger, so he knows what he is doing.

2nd, you only live 30/45mins from Steve's gargae, when you 1st had the problem, you should have taken to Steve.

3rd, Ive spoken to Steve today, and you are more than welcome to take to him so he can sort your problem with the rattle. But i think he said that to you over the phone on sat ?

As you know Steve will try to help you out anyway he can, Re- me taking his code reader to Blackpool on sunday for your Eng/Man/Light problem you had. You know the number give him a call.

[Unregistered_User]

I in no way accused Simon of anything, Gord ;) He did however have trouble with the wires for some reason in that he soldered them incorrectly to the ECU, which confused me slightly.

Anyway, I will hopefully get down to see Steve at some point, very busy with a new job at the moment so can't be helped. Didn't realise it would cause such a stir.

Regards.

J

[Dave-Ellen]

I in no way accused Simon of anything, Gord ;) He did however have trouble with the wires for some reason in that he soldered them incorrectly to the ECU, which confused me slightly.

Anyway, I will hopefully get down to see Steve at some point, very busy with a new job at the moment so can't be helped. Didn't realise it would cause such a stir.

Regards.

J

Some may say you are being disingenious Jamie.

Normal routine is to phone (you have my number) PM/Email the supplier/garage with any "problem" you may have.

If they don't respond in a day or two or refuse to assist then by all means go public.

What I can't understand is your reluctance to travel 30 or so miles to Steve. If you were in London them I could understand a reluctance to make the trip.

Steve is also open on a Saturday BTW