georgeh

Ls400 Rear Spring Removal

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Some time ago there was a fantastic post showing how to

remove the rear springs on the LS400 (mine's a 1994).

Does anyone know how to find it?

I've spent ages looking through old posts.

Thanks,

George

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I looked this up in the w/s manual and this is a fair old job .

It's shown as removal of shock absorber, as the spring comes off with it.

Unless someone knows a better way you have to remove the drive shaft, matchmarking it with paint [not punch marks]

for correct refiitting.

Spring compressor/s and hexagonal socket for inner coupling on drive shaft etc. needed.

Rear seat cushion out,parcel tray,roof side garnish out [bit with rear courtesy light in], right and left scuff plates off,brake caliper off.

Not a job for a cold day outside!.....can you put it off until summer!! :whistling:

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I looked this up in the w/s manual and this is a fair old job .

It's shown as removal of shock absorber, as the spring comes off with it.

Unless someone knows a better way you have to remove the drive shaft, matchmarking it with paint [not punch marks]

for correct refiitting.

Spring compressor/s and hexagonal socket for inner coupling on drive shaft etc. needed.

Rear seat cushion out,parcel tray,roof side garnish out [bit with rear courtesy light in], right and left scuff plates off,brake caliper off.

Not a job for a cold day outside!.....can you put it off until summer!! :whistling:

Thanks for that. I'm dropping the car by 1" using eibach springs.

Don't get them until Feb. so I will take your advice and wait till it's warmer.

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Some time ago there was a fantastic post showing how to

remove the rear springs on the LS400 (mine's a 1994).

Does anyone know how to find it?

I've spent ages looking through old posts.

Thanks,

George

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I have just had the rear springs and shock absorbers on my 1996 LS400 replaced by my friendly local garage. To aid the fitter I copied the (American) instructions found at www.lextreme.com/ascon.htm. We found the instructions had some shortcomings so here is the easier way that worked for me.

Back seat removal.

1. Seat squab. Where squab fits into the base, at a distance of about 9" inwards from the corners, push the front side towards the rear to release catches from the retaining hooks. Lift out seat base.

2. Raise both rear headrests, open flaps in seat back and undo both bolts. Drop down centre arm rest, open flap at rear and undo bolt. Undo the bolts at the bottom of the backrest. Lift backrest upward and remove from car.

3. Lift parcel shelf just high enough to reach the S/A cap.

Shock absorber removal.

4. At parcel shelf slacken off the large centre nut from the S/A but DO NOT REMOVE IT. this is just to make it easier to take off when the S/A is off.

5. Slacken off wheel nuts and jack the rear of the car as high as possible off the ground, supporting the car on axle stands. Remove the wheels.

6. Fit a set (2 min) of wheel compressors around the spring and compress as much as possible. This will shorten the distance between the top and bottom of the S/A making it easier to remove. Undo the large bolt securing the bottom of the S/A to the axle carrier. Undo the three nuts under the parcel shelf. You should now be able to remove the unit from the car.

7. Undo the central nut from the S/A and remove mounting plate, insulator and spring bumper. Carefully slacken off spring compressors and release spring.

8. Fitting the new items is a reversal of this procedure.

Torque figures; S/A to axle carrier 101 ft. lbs

S/A centre rod nut 20 ft. lbs

Wheel nuts 76 ft. lbs

Part Nos. Springs Lexus ZL48231-50100

S/A Lexus ZL48530-59126 (very dear)

S/A Boge 30-B37-A (around £55 ea)

emdg

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Really good useful post!

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Hat-tip to emdg - quality post, I just did mine following these instructions, worked like a charm once I'd got the sodding original out.... I had to use loads more compression on the springs than I thought I'd need!

Just a couple of observations I'd make: The seat bolts are at the bottom of the seat back (this caused some headscratching - I was expecting to spot them behind the headrests!); and rather than undo the center armrest, I found I had to remove the two fixed seatbelt "clickers" (what's the official name..?).

Time taken: 4 sodding hours. Lucky I have a huge indoor garage, 2-post lift (axle stands would be a nightmare) and plenty of tools - it made the job a lot more bearable.

Swearing level: Abundant to Excessive.

Spanner rash: Avoided. Result :D

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Has it passed its MOT then????

Pete

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Has it passed its MOT then????

Pete

Dunno, I'll find out tomorrow (Tue 7th) - but it should do. The spring was the only problem (no advisories, etc.); and when I took it off it was in 2 pieces...

The new one fits fine, is in 1 piece, and looks fine, so I predict she'll sail through. Well, waft, anyway... :)

UPDATE: Sorted, no problems :)

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On 25/01/2008 at 5:39 PM, EMDG said:

I have just had the rear springs and shock absorbers on my 1996 LS400 replaced by my friendly local garage. To aid the fitter I copied the (American) instructions found at www.lextreme.com/ascon.htm. We found the instructions had some shortcomings so here is the easier way that worked for me.

Back seat removal.

1. Seat squab. Where squab fits into the base, at a distance of about 9" inwards from the corners, push the front side towards the rear to release catches from the retaining hooks. Lift out seat base.

2. Raise both rear headrests, open flaps in seat back and undo both bolts. Drop down centre arm rest, open flap at rear and undo bolt. Undo the bolts at the bottom of the backrest. Lift backrest upward and remove from car.

3. Lift parcel shelf just high enough to reach the S/A cap.

Shock absorber removal.

4. At parcel shelf slacken off the large centre nut from the S/A but DO NOT REMOVE IT. this is just to make it easier to take off when the S/A is off.

5. Slacken off wheel nuts and jack the rear of the car as high as possible off the ground, supporting the car on axle stands. Remove the wheels.

6. Fit a set (2 min) of wheel compressors around the spring and compress as much as possible. This will shorten the distance between the top and bottom of the S/A making it easier to remove. Undo the large bolt securing the bottom of the S/A to the axle carrier. Undo the three nuts under the parcel shelf. You should now be able to remove the unit from the car.

7. Undo the central nut from the S/A and remove mounting plate, insulator and spring bumper. Carefully slacken off spring compressors and release spring.

8. Fitting the new items is a reversal of this procedure.

Torque figures; S/A to axle carrier 101 ft. lbs

S/A centre rod nut 20 ft. lbs

Wheel nuts 76 ft. lbs

Part Nos. Springs Lexus ZL48231-50100

S/A Lexus ZL48530-59126 (very dear)

S/A Boge 30-B37-A (around £55 ea)

emdg

An old post I know but I used these outline instructions to change a rear spring on my 98 LS400 yesterday and it all went really well.

This is not my first rodeo where spring change is concerned i've done the front on this car and many others on other cars. 

Reading around the internet people seem to see this job as a bit of a nightmare on this car but from my perspective it is far from it. I rate this as 5/10 on the swear scale, which is pretty good really.

I always use a certain technique when doing springs, some may see it as a bit bodgey but it has worked for me so many times....

to get the spring off and on to the car compressing it is necessary but there really isn't enough room to get a compressor on so I use a 1 ton ratchet type tie down strap wrapped 4 or more times around the spring as high up and as low down as I can then ratchet it up till the pressure is off, this makes removing and later installing it really easy. However when you actually remove the strut from the spring use proper compressors, if the strap did let go when not captive it could ruin your whole day or more!

The whole job took me 2 hours on my driveway.

Anyway thanks for the instructions

 

Dave

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I bought some “Heavy Duty” spring compressors from  fleabay seller and they were completely useless (didn’t even fit over the coils correctly).

The last time I removed the strut and got my local MOT garage to change the spring with their pneumatic spring compressor, for the sake of £10.00 I would not risk a DIY spring change.

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My mechanic is trying to replace my rear springs.  I said I'd seen on you tube a guy doing it and he said that the Springs can come out by just raising the Upper Control Arm.

I think Malc or Steve said they had had one replaced recently only cost £40.  Reading this thread suggests four hours job and my guy is not sure that he may need to remove the drive shafts.  He's in crisis at this time. (me too now!)  Perhaps the you tube guy said that the Ball joint bolt needed to come out of the Control Arm or perhaps he didn't??  DOES IT?  Rusted in after twenty five years it won't be easy but with its removal is it then possible without clamping the spring, to twist and remove it under the wheel arch?  He's still laughing when I said £40.00 and suggested I should take it to where its done for that cost.  Bit of drive methinks  !  Any quick help as I'm emailing him a link to the vu tube and lexus links. Will make his Friday evening!

 

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I'll just update my own last contribution to this old thread.  I went to the workshop to see why there was difficulty in doing this supposedly easy Strut removal.

I tried with my Mechanic to remove the strut and I couldn't do it.  There is insufficient clearance in the upper tunnel and I couldn't fully release the lower part from the housing sufficient to drop it away from the Drive shaft Gaiter and to the right of it.  Even if it could have been done, the length of the Strut, the inner wheel arch and a Strengthening panel in the Tunnel don't allow for wiggle room to angle the strut.  I have checked all vutube vids on this and each time when you get to the part of removal, there is no actual footage of a Strut being removed. Perhaps the 91 model had a different upper tunnel housing?  We've had to abandon the repalcement and short of cutting out the Spring and repalcing with a modern Coilover (different diameter strut spring) I'm not going to imagine the cost of  replacing with removal of Drive shaft etc.  More than the Cars worth?

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Stuart hi,                 ACLex the previous owner of mine replaced one spring when he re-converted her from DHP set-up style, coilovers ....  but he was Parts Manager at Lexus Poole and that was 7 years ago !

Maybe the Mk1/2 renewal is more complex but I remember him saying that the single new spring cost him @gbp100 back then and I think he would have used his co-workers to fit maybe.

Just a thought, not to scrap her but just see if Lexus has a sensible price for doing the job ?  and/or a simple explanation to do the job that someone there might be willing to divulge

Malc

 

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Thanks Malc.  I’ve no plans to scrap her and am only changing the springs because they’ve been an advisory more than once owing to rust.

Just collected the Car back without the change being made. 

Contacting an ex- Toyota dealer mechanic and waiting for him to call me back as to what the Bible says about Spring replacement.  If the cost is too high it probably would be cheaper to get two rear Coilovers and cut out the rear springs etc so avoiding the drive shaft etc., removal. Not that I particularly want to change the nature/ ride of the beast.  

2nd Alternative is to  rust kill , paint and continue to take with me the set of new springs on my 600 mile journeys into France and keep my fingers crossed. They’ve done the trip quite a few times.  Roads better over there, mind you.

When Springs can sometimes go with the Car parked at a Supermarket I  prefer to try and circumvent such happenings. They’ve done sterling service if originals – 25 years this March!   Time for their retirement!

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oh my, MOT Testers often say about rust when it's absolutely just surface and there's never any fear of structural effect ever.

I think springs might fracture/crack when exposed to sudden shock and unwarranted manipulation ....  I doubt they just " go " with old age.............. but maybe my wishful thinking here.

and I understand cracks and breaks might not affect the handling or performance of the car and just show up at the next MOT

My single one broke after being manually removed from the car at about  100k miles and stored.

Good luck whatever :yes: 

Malc

 

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Personally I would be looking for a new mechanic if he relies on Youtube videos for instructions.

The strut is released by removing the three top mount bolts (after removing the rear seats and parcel shelf to gain access) and then the through bolt on the lower control arm.

Admittedly it is tight but if you uncouple the anti roll bar link the lower suspension (hub) can be pushed down far enough so the strut assembly can be removed.

It took me a little while and as I said it is tight but I managed it with basic DIY skills.

My local MOT garage replaced my other spring for me seeing as it was in for the test and only charged me around £30.00 labour to remove the strut (parcel shelf already out), change the spring and refit it.

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I'm very confident of this mechanics abilities.  How many mechanics can there be in their late thirties who've worked on changing springs on old Lexus's which seem to last the Cars lifetime?

We had that upper control arm up and down like a fiddlers elbow but still couldn't get the thing completely out of the holder and no clearance at top or bottom of the spring to the inner wheel arch housing.

Maybe, if after rotating  the Spring, we had re-applied the clamps it would in hindsight have given a bit more top clearance but not at the bottom. Was persuasion in the form of leverage used  by you, Steve?

Its back on the drive now until the Ice Age is over and then I'll rethink if he or this other mechanic want to make further attempt.  Bu**ered if I'd want to work in a cold Garage doing this sort of work.

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As i mentioned before ..............  rather than just accepting the job looks nigh economically impossible and the posts here are probably a little dubious in your eyes, why not just go to Lexus Main Dealer and get them to quote for you ?

They might have a set piece in their pricing manual that may pleasantly surprise you .......  or not.

Nothing to lose !

Malc

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Having thought about it a bit more you may be correct in that I understand the series III strut was longer than previous versions meaning that there could be insufficient room to remove it without more suspension dismantling.

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Bizarre update.  I purchased the new springs K-FLEX  KYB  RD5979  several years ago and at the same time bought two new Rear OEM Upper Control Arms from Amayana. - just in case of an MOT fail on these parts having had a nightmare with the fronts when I purchased the Car. 

Only the Springs so far have been mentioned, so I stored everything.  Only now have I checked the Springs against these new UCA's to find that there is no way they will go through the centre hole.  So, even if the originals had been lowered they wouldnt have been extractable.  Or, KYB have sold me the wrong Springs  (Sorry revised this sentence as the guy didn't take the whole unit through the hole in the UCA - Anno Domini affecting my thinking Doh!) 

See ebay ref for the same spring advertised as for Lexus LS400.. 

Just looked on Rock Auto to see if they quote KYB springs but only Moog seen and at £85 to import a pair is an OK price but looking at the image, it suggests that there is no flat bottom to the springs.  Why is that?? different Diameter I have no way of knowing ?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7111356&cc=1187489&jsn=327&jsn=327

Next time I have the wheel off i'll have to try to measure the diameter of the existing Springs to better understand what is going on here?

 

 

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I wish I could put you in touch with the ACLex on here whom I bought my car from but he told me he was emigrating all those years back BUT he did work at Lexus Poole in Dorset    Wonder if they might be able to give you some useful thoughts 

Malc

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