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It's Dying!


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Had my supercharged IS for a couple of months now, and its amazing. Whilst driving today the engine light came on, and the TRC OFF light started flashing. About a minute later it just lost all power and stalled as i pulled to the side of the road. When i tried to start it, it was idle just under 1000rpm (slightly lower than usual) then either stall on its own, or as soon as i touched the throttle!

Left it fror an hour (went for a pint and a carvery at a very convieniently placed pub!) then started fine and seemed to run ok... for about a mile, then the lights came on again and got most of the way home before... you guessedit, died again, same symptoms. By this time i was two miles from home, and after leaving it for about 20 mins, it would start again.

It seems to be better once it's cooled down. My mechanical knowledge is limited and i haven't a clue what the problem may be. I'm reluctant to take it to my local dealer (i'm not made of money!) but dont want to risk damaging my much loved Lexi.

Anytbody more knowledgeable than I have any ideas?

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Ask TTE for a new piggy back ECU, I believe you have the black one as it is the symptoms when it is dead. You can remove it as a temporary measure before you get the new one so you can use the car

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Yeah i agree with Yemgi, it sounds like the piggyback ECU.

If you remove it don't boot the car otherwise you'll hit the fuel cut. (what the black box prevents)

Then try to get hold of TTE for a new one. But i'm not sure they still swap them for free.

They may offer you the Silver box for a fee this is the improved version but requires a couple of extra wires soldering.

Alternatives are the HKS FCD (standard version) or i've been looking into it and an even better alternative is the Greddy BCC.

The Greddy one is exactly the same as the black box but adjustable for different settings. (you need the cut at about 4.84v's)

Hope this helps.

Stav

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Ask TTE for a new piggy back ECU, I believe you have the black one as it is the symptoms when it is dead. You can remove it as a temporary measure before you get the new one so you can use the car

OK, thanks for the help. Where is the ECU located? Is it easy to remove? If i can get a replacement free then that would be great. I've spent all my money on buying this car and am literally skint!

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If you open the engine, behind the passenger headlight is a big black box. open that up and its in there.

Email Florian at TTE about the new part. You should find the email address on the TTE website.

Stav

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Dave,

been looking into how the chips work and i think the Greddy one is a better option,

Basically how the black box works is, it takes the signal from the inlet pressure and relays it to the ecu but when the pressure gets so high it stop sending the true pressure and sends a capped signal.

I cant remember the exact readings but for example it tells the true pressure up to say 0.8 bar then as the inlet pressure gets higher it stops the signal and keeps telling the ecu its 0.8 bar, because if it goes any higher the fuel cut kicks in.

The Greddy BCC works in the exact same way but has an adjstable set point unlike the black box.

The FCD is different because it gives a lower figure right through the range, i.e the input is 0.4 it tells the car is 0.3. Then the inputs 0.6 it tells the car its 0.52 and so on. The % it tells the car less depends on the setting (1 being the biggest, 12being as though the FCD isnt there)

Stav

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been looking into how the chips work and i think the Greddy one is a better option,

Stav

Thanks mate, all very useful. where might i find one of these Greddy devices? and any idea how much £?

A mate has told me that a boost controller would be able to do the same thing, as well as giving more power, but i just dont know if this is true or not!

Started the car this afternoon, warmed it up and drove for 10 mins, seems fine, no warning lights today! It failed yesterday after a pretty rapid stretch of travelling (2 mile a minute cruising for about 10mins!) So maybe it was overheating somehow. Still, dont want it to happen again. TDi say this is one of the first conversions they did, about three years ago, so maybe just worn? Only covered about 15k miles in that time thou.

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been looking into how the chips work and i think the Greddy one is a better option,

Stav

Thanks mate, all very useful. where might i find one of these Greddy devices? and any idea how much £?

A mate has told me that a boost controller would be able to do the same thing, as well as giving more power, but i just dont know if this is true or not!

Started the car this afternoon, warmed it up and drove for 10 mins, seems fine, no warning lights today! It failed yesterday after a pretty rapid stretch of travelling (2 mile a minute cruising for about 10mins!) So maybe it was overheating somehow. Still, dont want it to happen again. TDi say this is one of the first conversions they did, about three years ago, so maybe just worn? Only covered about 15k miles in that time thou.

boost controller will not solve the problem

the problem will be inconsistant, so would advise to get it sorted as as possible

tdi did my supercharger conversion over 4 years ago :whistling: , my black box went last year !

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A boost controller won't work mate, cause the boost on a S/C is limited to the engine speed whereas a turbo can just keep getting faster and faster so needs controlling.

Greddy dont sell them anymore i dont think so you'll need to search on eBay.

Stav

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A boost controller won't work mate, cause the boost on a S/C is limited to the engine speed whereas a turbo can just keep getting faster and faster so needs controlling.

Greddy dont sell them anymore i dont think so you'll need to search on Ebay.

Stav

Yeh thought that didnt sound right!

I'll keep my eye on eBay, but mite just end up getting one from TTE.

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me again

the cars been fine a couple of days, then same fault.

i have bought the hks fcd from eBay, i knoe the greddy unit seems better but they are harder to get hold of and i picked this one up cheap!

can i realistically fit it myself or does it require anything expert like remapping etc or is it a case of wiring it in and i'm away?

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Right, what model of FCD did you buy?

Theres type H, F3, and STD.

Its the STD you need. Probaly about setting 8 you'll want it on but if you find the car cutting out or anything drop it down one, but be careful, go too low your car will run lean and blow.

As for fitting, its the same as the TTE black box, 4 wires, +12v, Earth, input, and output.

The HKS website will give you a fitting guide. but basically, the black wire to the black wire, red to red, then the yellow wire to the ECU side, and white to the sensor side.

Stav

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Right, what model of FCD did you buy?

Theres type H, F3, and STD.

Its the STD you need. Probaly about setting 8 you'll want it on but if you find the car cutting out or anything drop it down one, but be careful, go too low your car will run lean and blow.

As for fitting, its the same as the TTE black box, 4 wires, +12v, Earth, input, and output.

The HKS website will give you a fitting guide. but basically, the black wire to the black wire, red to red, then the yellow wire to the ECU side, and white to the sensor side.

Stav

Excellent, thanks, sounds like i can manage that.

When it cut last nite i took that black box out and it was a little warm. left it a few mins in the cold night air and it was ok again. strangly now another warning light, the (!) one also used for handbrake!

wont drive the car again until its fixed thou i dont think, will break the celica out of retirment for a few days!

It didnt even say which FCD it was, but he says bought it for a 200sx but was fitted to a gt4. I thought id risk it, asssumed it was a STD one and picked it up under £50!

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Remember you'll need the correct security tools to access the ECU.

Also, once it has arrived, if you could do a "How To" with plenty pictures it will certainly benefit other members with similar issues.

Regards,

Jamie

dont know that i have security tools? i do have the full original lexus kit in the boot?i just took the covers off and pulled out the @ecu extension@ black box with the 4 wires coming from it. all i needed was a socket wrench!

if it goes well ill keep u informed and try to pic it if i can for ya.

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You dont need the security tools mate.

The metal cover to the plugs on the ECU are special tamperproof 5 point star tools, but you dont need them as you already know the wires to connect too.

Stav

excellent, thought so.

just waiting on mr. postman.......

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