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Tte Intercooler Upgrade/replacement


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I don't quite agree Rob, as the pictures suggest. I did drive hard in a few places on my way home on Tuesday,

and the peak boost measured by the gauges memory was the first picture. The car had definately picked up a bit

yesterday after more miles. However I am not sure where the Boost gauge is plumbled into and that may be a factor.

In answer to your question it's about 0.3-0.35 Rob

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maybe the gauge isnt as accurate as it could be?? as the SC is fixed geared and fixed output per rpm it will always produce the same at a given RPM - it could be however that the gear change points VS rpm change slightly and that would then account for the differences .

If its possible for you to give me a pressure figure as 6k RPM that would be very interesting.

I suspect the boost gauge is plumbed in next to the throttle body

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it's difficult to say accurately but I would suggest 0.35. They system overboosts in an Auto as the revs don't drop off

as much as a manual when it comes to gear changes, and as the new gear comes in it surges to the peak figure.

On the TTE intercooler, a fraction over 0.5 was the peak figure, upon changing the I/C on Tuesday it was the first pic

after about 50 miles. It was not reaching that for the first few miles at all, runningly slightly lumpy would be the best

way to describe it. After more mileage yesterday it has increased slightly to about 0.5. The car was running considerably

better. Like I said above it is only seat of the pants, but the car feels almost exactly the same now as it was before,

with maybe a tiny bit more over 4,000rpm, but it my well be the placebo effect.

Also my car has the SS Pro-Lex 6-2-1 Manifold which has no pre-cats, this may or may not affect how well the car reacts to the new intercooler.

I would like to get the AFR checked just for safety, but as the car won't do an accurate dyno reading, anyone have any easy ideas to check the AFR ?

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wozza, the video link isn't working for me mate, but are they the ball bearing type pulse brakes?? i.e the ones that u have to slam on the anchors to get them to pulse??? if so, i'd reccomend getting the pulse sequencer module myself and stav have. they are brighter and have a better pulse rate IMO.

cars coming on well matey :)

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wozza, the video link isn't working for me mate, but are they the ball bearing type pulse brakes?? i.e the ones that u have to slam on the anchors to get them to pulse??? if so, i'd reccomend getting the pulse sequencer module myself and stav have. they are brighter and have a better pulse rate IMO.

cars coming on well matey :)

if you click on the video it should open in a new window. (site down for maintenance so will check again and re-post if necesessary)

Please send me via PM details of your pulse sequencer module. Do you use the original bulbs & have no load resistor ?

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Please send me via PM details of your pulse sequencer module. Do you use the original bulbs & have no load resistor ?

Can you also post details (or link to the details) as I would be interested in the details too? :)

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video link working fine, think the blip was just site maintenance

th_IntercoolerNightShotsVideo2.jpg

or direct link

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w163/dj...ShotsVideo2.flv

details are here

no details posted on thread yet (to my knowledge) of the new pulse sequencer module......

Over to you Rob & Stav, we need a thread with pictures, component lists, stockists etc :D

I get a bulb out warning light on my dash, but only when I put my sidelights on.

With the sidelights on and I put my foot on the brake, the light goes out :huh:

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right, i'll start a thread with pics etc later today or the weekend.

wozza, your warning light is because u need load resistors fitted as you have the ball bearing type bulbs. one word of warning, be carfeul how and where u fit the actual resistor part as it gets SOOOO hot and can melt the light housing if your not careful!! the warning light will stay on until the ignition is switched off and will come on again the first time the brake pedal is applied

the sequencer module i have requires NO LOAD RESISTOR and the only modification is to change the bulb to an LED type (and wire in the unit of course....)

I have fog-to-brake conversion and when i brake my fogs pulse at 20 pulses a second for 2 seconds, then illuminate as a solid light (all other brake lights work as normal).

the effect is different, dramatic and looks fanatstic IMO.

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I get a bulb out warning light on my dash, but only when I put my sidelights on.

With the sidelights on and I put my foot on the brake, the light goes out :huh:

And does it come back on again when you lift off?

yep :winky:

Wozza, your warning light is because u need load resistors fitted ............

I have them fitted and they do get very hot which is why I might look for a cost effective solution....

....the warning light will stay on until the ignition is switched off and will come on again the first time the brake pedal is applied

No warning lights at all in daytime, when sidelights/healights are on I get a warning, and when I press the brakes it goes out.

When I release the pedal the light comes back on again..... :huh: :duh:

I look forward to seeing your solution, along with recommended components/bulbs etc :D

Ok. No more talk of Brake lights guys

Time to get the thread thread back on topic....

Those who liked or were unsure or disliked the Intercooler LED's, what are your opinions now after seeing with the nightime shots/video ?

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The mod you did to light up the IC?......if you was having them on all the time then no i dont like them (Maxpower) but now i know your just using them at meets and shows then thats a different thing all together :D

I thought you was turning it into a Barryboz chavtastic motor..

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@ Yaumeister what happened to your big intercooler ?

I thought you had a look at it at one of the meets, basically it had a run in with a hugh speed bump, which pretty much completely squashed the bottom layer grill and damaged the mounts. I've had the mounts repaired but don't know if there is further unspotted damage that may be causing my boost leak.

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I would like to get the AFR checked just for safety, but as the car won't do an accurate dyno reading, anyone have any easy ideas

to check the AFR ?

Have to get yourself an AFR gauge mate for the dash, there about £200. make sure you get a wideband one.

Stav

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  • 2 weeks later...
how come auto supras can/are dyno'd all the time, even my IS300 was dyno'd at TDI of all places......who alwasy said you cant dyno autos.

Yes but you called Paul not Dave :P

Well done Wozza for having ago at fitting yourself (with some help) looks very good job mate :D

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