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Fitting A Sub Need Amp Wiring Diagram


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It's much easier if you let us know what you are trying to achieve first mate, as someone on LOC

will probably have done it first......fitting a sub is easy, you can do it with the amp still in place,

what are your plans ? Head unit/external amp(s)/Sub etc ?

I'm not certain as to Altezza specifications, but if your car has an external OE Amp, it will be here...

AmplocationIS200SESport.jpg

The amp can be removed quite easily, it is located behind the glovebox on the left bulkhead.

To see it, open the glovebox, and pull the sides (at the rear) towards the centre, and then the

glovebox will swing down on it's hinges. The glovebox can easily be removed totally by just

pushing the plastic hinge pins towards the centre of the glovebox.

Why do you want to remove the amp in the first place ?

The amp has two bolts you can see holding it in place, along with two stubborn cables at the rear.

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Does that sub/amp combo have a high level input ?

If so easy peasy, run a parallel feed from the 6x9's wiring from inside the boot to provide the sound signal.

Run the amp power lead from the Battery (with a suitable fuse in the engine bay) through the bulkhead

grommet by the bside of the Battery , down behind the glove box to the footwell, then down the passenger

sidesill to the boot (goes through the rear bulkhead behind the rear seat).

Throught the bulkhead here by the right side of the Battery

0AWGPowerCableThroughBulkhead.jpg

SEE HERE to remove the rear seat

Let us know how you get on

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Take the amp input from wiring in parallel from the rear 6x9's (wires are visible from inside the boot under the shelf)

You only need this feed from one of the 6x9 speakers. That will give you a mono sub feed.

If the Vibe Active takes a hi-level imput then you are sorted.

If not you just need a Hi-Level to RCA convertor.

For what you are doing that is the simplest & easiest option.

That should be all the info you need along with my post above.

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This is like the RCA converter that i used when i fitted my active sub box in my IS200 like what DJ Wozza is on

about CLICK ME!! The one i have is a JVC version and works a treat :)

Very simple to do as DJ Wozza above says!!, And you can get these from Halfords or ebay if you have a search, and you can get them for very little money, and simple to fit, It just connects to your 6x9 speaker wires in the rear of your lex? ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
This is like the RCA converter that i used when i fitted my active sub box in my IS200 like what DJ Wozza is on

about CLICK ME!! The one i have is a JVC version and works a treat :)

Very simple to do as DJ Wozza above says!!, And you can get these from Halfords or ebay if you have a search, and you can get them for very little money, and simple to fit, It just connects to your 6x9 speaker wires in the rear of your lex? ;)

wouldnt doing itthat way effect the quality of the sound of the sub

thanks

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In what way ? You need to realise your system will be a compromise as your OE Lexus Head Unit

does not come with RCA Phono pre-outs.

If you want the best sound quality you have to junk the entire system, Head Unit, Speakers Front & Rear

plus the factory amp. That should answer your question. Do what we have suggested/provided info for

above and get it running, then if the quality is not what you want, then you also know what to do.

Rip it all out and replace. Quite simple really.

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In what way ? You need to realise your system will be a compromise as your OE Lexus Head Unit

does not come with RCA Phono pre-outs.

If you want the best sound quality you have to junk the entire system, Head Unit, Speakers Front & Rear

plus the factory amp. That should answer your question. Do what we have suggested/provided info for

above and get it running, then if the quality is not what you want, then you also know what to do.

Rip it all out and replace. Quite simple really.

thanks wozza....just tought id ask

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did it not come with instructions ?

To get a bass feed, you need to run a feed (in parallel) from the woofer part of the 6x9

(under the rear shelf)

.

You may need to do this just to one, or to both depending on what the kits is ? (Mono or Stereo)

Without a picture of what you have bought this is really hard work.

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i wouldnt use this as it may turn the amp on before the radio and cause a "thump" through the sub which may damage it.

There is a remote trigger on the HU which is the right thing to use for the job..

http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/IS_98-...ents/index.html

electrical wiring diagrams

radio & Player

RHD 8 Spkr

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Any decent quality amp should have turn on protection, or if you have the boot stripped out,

there are also ign live points you can tap into.

not true.. infact quite the opposite, JL dont have this :whistling:

most amps wont have this as this is what the remote lead is for.. it should only send power after the SOURCE unit, in this case the HU is powered.

so if i tap into the white wire from the head unit this should be a trigger for the oem amp as the diagram looks like it is.

the switched live is acc which is black 10E, but i think that the white is a remote trigger best bet would be test it with a multimeter to be sure..

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Any decent quality amp should have turn on protection, or if you have the boot stripped out,

there are also ign live points you can tap into.

not true.. infact quite the opposite, JL dont have this :whistling:

most amps wont have this as this is what the remote lead is for.. it should only send power after the SOURCE unit, in this case the HU is powered.

so if i tap into the white wire from the head unit this should be a trigger for the oem amp as the diagram looks like it is.

the switched live is acc which is black 10E, but i think that the white is a remote trigger best bet would be test it with a multimeter to be sure..

will do can this be done and wired in at the back of the head unit or best from the amp side?have just went to Halfords and bought the speaker to rca connector,so will get all info and give it a bash the morn.as have wing mirrors to fit the night long story,not the lex thank god.

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Any decent quality amp should have turn on protection, or if you have the boot stripped out,

there are also ign live points you can tap into.

not true.. infact quite the opposite, JL dont have this :whistling:

most amps wont have this as this is what the remote lead is for.. it should only send power after the SOURCE unit, in this case the HU is powered.

so if i tap into the white wire from the head unit this should be a trigger for the oem amp as the diagram looks like it is.

the switched live is acc which is black 10E, but i think that the white is a remote trigger best bet would be test it with a multimeter to be sure..

will do can this be done and wired in at the back of the head unit or best from the amp side?have just went to Halfords and bought the speaker to rca connector,so will get all info and give it a bash the morn.as have wing mirrors to fit the night long story,not the lex thank god.

will be easiest and best to take the remote feed off back of HU..

make sure you take the feed off the woofer element of the rear speakers too.. im not sure if you shoud leave the rear speakers connected after this, i wouldnt recomened it

but aztec has done similar so maybe he can advise what he did..

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It worked absolutely fine when all I had was a Bass Amp, and just a single Sub connected to the rest of the

standard OE system. The audio feed was taken in parallel from the woofer feed wires

(inside the boot under the rear shelf).

That was enough for a for me for a while (but then the bug bites again), then I wanted more bass.

Bass increased, but then the front stage was overpowered by the bass... then etc etc etc and so it goes on.

BTW

Leighton I never said JL did fella. I love the way you try everytime to belittle me. It's funny mate :D

Lots of decent quality amps do have turn on protection. Not all, but lots :)

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