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A Couple Of Niggly Bits


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Anyone who has read the Topic 'Potential new owner' knows we have our LS back :D

In the 3 months she has been away a few problems occured :tsktsk:

1) The radio volume button is loose. It still sort of works but it's basically knackered. Has anyone had this issue and is it fixable?

2)The drivers door won't lock anymore with the fob. Opens fine. It locks fine with the key though. ..Is this just a matter of taking off the door card and grease the parts inside?

3) Passenger side window is not going down from the passenger side switch(does go up) but works fine from the driver controls. Clean the switch??

4) Passenger side Seat belt adjuster not working. Faulty switch?

Thanks in advance

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Hi,

Radio volume control is probably just the brass nut come loose but is a pig of a job to strip the unit and tighten unless you can pull the knob off and get to the nut with narrow nose pliers.

Drivers door lock could be the motor ( integrated into lock mechanism) or a wiring fault. Door card removal on www.lexls.com

Passenger window may be the switch or wiring. Try substituting a rear window switch to confirm as I think the plug is the same.

Passenger seatbelt height adjustment try swopping the driver side to confirm switch is faulty.

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Hi Steve, thanks for your quick reply. I'll follow your advise tomorrow.

The door lock is kinda working with the remote, you can see the lock switch moving but just not far enough to lock the door. It opens fine once locked with the key

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I've also noticed a popping sound. More noticable on cold idle. I can't really see or hear any exhaust leaks under the car.

Could it be the exhaust manifold or is this very uncommon to fail on the LS?

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Hi Steve, thanks for your quick reply. I'll follow your advise tomorrow.

The door lock is kinda working with the remote, you can see the lock switch moving but just not far enough to lock the door. It opens fine once locked with the key

Hi,

Mine developed this very same fault about a month ago- I just took off the doorcard and sprayed a little WD40 on the bits I couldnt get at and 3-in-1 oil on all the other linkage bits......works a treat now! I think it was more the dry linkages around the catch/lock area that wouldnt let the solenoid throw the lock open. After 18 years of use I forgave the car for that!!

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I've also noticed a popping sound. More noticable on cold idle. I can't really see or hear any exhaust leaks under the car.

Could it be the exhaust manifold or is this very uncommon to fail on the LS?

Dear Ruud,

The chief tech at my Lexus dealer, which is Australia's largest, says that in the 10 years he's been there they've never:

Replaced the exhaust system in an LS.

Had to dismantle or do internal repairs to a Lexus V8.

Had to take the dashboard out of an LS (mine had a slight creak, now gone), and

I bought my LS at 100k miles. It had been standing for 15 months and it had a slight exhaust buzz from a tube somewhere in the valley at the rear of the engine. That was replaced and has never returned in 5 years. Perhaps your popping is also a minor item.

Regarding earlier posts, I've owned a Citroen CX, Mercedes 6.3, and a 1985 Jaguar Sovereign, and whilst they each have their virtues, they all had weaknesses. The LS400 however, so far as I've been able to discover, has none.

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I've managed to fix the radio. It was the nut that had come off ( Thanks Steve :D )

Also removed the door card to grease all the lock related bits...unfortunately it's still the same.

Fixed the seat belt adjuster and the passenger window switch as well :)

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I've managed to fix the radio. It was the nut that had come off ( Thanks Steve :D )

Also removed the door card to grease all the lock related bits...unfortunately it's still the same.

Fixed the seat belt adjuster and the passenger window switch as well :)

That is the problem but you're spraying the wrong area. You've got some rust on the lock on the inside in between the two moving parts which are sticking together. You can't see the bits really unless you have a small mirror to slide in behind and a good touch. It's a bugger to see. If I remember a long flat blade screwdriver to prise the parts apart and then spray wd40(with straw attached) in between them.

To find the part location you can take off the top link going north off the lock and can manually move the item up and down working the oil in and freeing it up a little.

You'll know when you get in behind the door lock. You may free up the unit but might have to do it again in about a months time when hot weather returns. I did mine three times in my first five months, But has know gone and works fine for the last year.

Hope that makes a little sense.

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Thanks for that baz, I'll have another go tomorrow.

The car is a 1993

The only thing left really is a popping sound from under the bonnet at cold (high) Idle. Also noticable when the a/c pump kicks in and the rpm increases.

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Thanks for that baz, I'll have another go tomorrow.

The car is a 1993

The only thing left really is a popping sound from under the bonnet at cold (high) Idle. Also noticable when the a/c pump kicks in and the rpm increases.

The car will idle more when cold until it gets warm and the idle will also go up when enging the AC as it's well stated that running air con puts an extra strain on any engine.

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Thanks for that baz, I'll have another go tomorrow.

The car is a 1993

The only thing left really is a popping sound from under the bonnet at cold (high) Idle. Also noticable when the a/c pump kicks in and the rpm increases.

The car will idle more when cold until it gets warm and the idle will also go up when enging the AC as it's well stated that running air con puts an extra strain on any engine.

I know but I don't think the higher idle should produce a popping sound

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Thanks for that baz, I'll have another go tomorrow.

The car is a 1993

The only thing left really is a popping sound from under the bonnet at cold (high) Idle. Also noticable when the a/c pump kicks in and the rpm increases.

The car will idle more when cold until it gets warm and the idle will also go up when enging the AC as it's well stated that running air con puts an extra strain on any engine.

I know but I don't think the higher idle should produce a popping sound

No one? :sad:

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