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The very first selection of D or R getting out of the drive is nice and smooth, but after a few blocks to the lights, if I select N whilst waiting (I'm used to a manual) I get a noticable jerk selecting D.

I thought this was maybe because the fluid level was low, but topped up now by the local Toyota dealers, and it still does it.

Is this likely to be because the fluid is 17 years old? seems likely to me, anyone changed their fluid to fix this symptom?

Thanks in advance for replies, Ian

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This was the fault that my SAAB had. It turned out to be the gear selection control system (solenoid block) and not the fluid. Unfortunately that meant a new gearbox (because of the damage) and hydraulic control system (to correct the problem). That was a Asian Warner 'box.

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transmissions are usually rock solid.

However, when waiting at the lights try keeping it in D with your foot on the brake. Also if the car is still cold then the revs may be up.

you can have the fluid changed, they suck it out of the transmission fluid dipstick and replace by tube feeding it back through the disptick.

You dont need to go to Toyota or Lexus for this.. miles cheaper 3rd party.

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I would change the transmission fluid as a matter of course given it's age, what is the colour of the fluid and does it smell burnt?

On mine the recommended change interval is 60,000 miles/100,000kms.

I managed to cause a similar problem on mine after I had replaced the starter motor by misadjusting the kickdown cable it thumped into drive and reverse and also what is your tickover speed when the problem occurs?

These gearboxes have what is called a shift shock system to allow smooth selection of drive and if set up correctly and in good mechanaic health should not even bump into drive/reverse.

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I would change the transmission fluid as a matter of course given it's age, what is the colour of the fluid and does it smell burnt?

On mine the recommended change interval is 60,000 miles/100,000kms.

I managed to cause a similar problem on mine after I had replaced the starter motor by misadjusting the kickdown cable it thumped into drive and reverse and also what is your tickover speed when the problem occurs?

These gearboxes have what is called a shift shock system to allow smooth selection of drive and if set up correctly and in good mechanaic health should not even bump into drive/reverse.

The fluid is a light brown, almost clean engine oil colour, it doesn't smell burnt.

Mileage is 169k. Tickover is around 800rpm

Could you tell me the kickdown cable adjustment - that's the cable going off to the right as you look at the engine?

I did have a error code 63 at one point, but I cleared the codes and it hasn't come back as yet. (open or short in no.2 solenoid)

What gets me is the very first shift of the day is pretty good

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I would change the transmission fluid as a matter of course given it's age, what is the colour of the fluid and does it smell burnt?

On mine the recommended change interval is 60,000 miles/100,000kms.

I managed to cause a similar problem on mine after I had replaced the starter motor by misadjusting the kickdown cable it thumped into drive and reverse and also what is your tickover speed when the problem occurs?

These gearboxes have what is called a shift shock system to allow smooth selection of drive and if set up correctly and in good mechanaic health should not even bump into drive/reverse.

The fluid is a light brown, almost clean engine oil colour, it doesn't smell burnt.

Mileage is 169k. Tickover is around 800rpm

Could you tell me the kickdown cable adjustment - that's the cable going off to the right as you look at the engine?

I did have a error code 63 at one point, but I cleared the codes and it hasn't come back as yet. (open or short in no.2 solenoid)

What gets me is the very first shift of the day is pretty good

Hi,

ATF should be a dark cherry red so I would definately get it replaced ( the fault may be occuring when the fluid gets to normal operating temperature and when cold the viscosity may be enough to absorb the transmission jerk).

Tickover seems slightly high the book is 650RPM when at normal running temperature.

Still trying to find the KD cable adjustment proceedure will post up ASAP.

BTW are the gear changes on the move OK?

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This was the fault that my SAAB had. It turned out to be the gear selection control system (solenoid block) and not the fluid. Unfortunately that meant a new gearbox (because of the damage) and hydraulic control system (to correct the problem). That was a Asian Warner 'box.

The Asian Warner gearbox is a very reliable unit, and designed not to be taken out of D at a stop or traffic lights.

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This was the fault that my SAAB had. It turned out to be the gear selection control system (solenoid block) and not the fluid. Unfortunately that meant a new gearbox (because of the damage) and hydraulic control system (to correct the problem). That was a Asian Warner 'box.

The Asian Warner gearbox is a very reliable unit, and designed not to be taken out of D at a stop or traffic lights.

New gearbox- not what I wanted to hear, but thanks for the info. I am getting into the habit of leaving it in D, just takes a while to un-learn manual habits

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Hi,

ATF should be a dark cherry red so I would definately get it replaced ( the fault may be occuring when the fluid gets to normal operating temperature and when cold the viscosity may be enough to absorb the transmission jerk).

Tickover seems slightly high the book is 650RPM when at normal running temperature.

Still trying to find the KD cable adjustment proceedure will post up ASAP.

BTW are the gear changes on the move OK?

Steve,

I think changing the fluid is the first step, The fluid is about £54 for 5 litres from Toyota, or I might ask how much to let the Toyota dealer do the job- they did a top-up just for the price of a litre of ATF, which was nice of them (Arnold Clarke)

Tickover is a bit high, not had the car long, still to clean the throttle body and change the O2 sensors (got codes 21, 28)

It was even higher until I realised that whoever had removed the throttle up from the steering pump had just joined the hoses together!

The changes on the move are certainly noticable, almost a bit sharp sometimes, I tend to throttle back in anticipation to soften them

cheers

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The very first selection of D or R getting out of the drive is nice and smooth, but after a few blocks to the lights, if I select N whilst waiting (I'm used to a manual) I get a noticable jerk selecting D.

I thought this was maybe because the fluid level was low, but topped up now by the local Toyota dealers, and it still does it.

Is this likely to be because the fluid is 17 years old? seems likely to me, anyone changed their fluid to fix this symptom?

Thanks in advance for replies, Ian

My ls400 1993 does the same. But can get rid of this buy selecting and pushing in the side/thumb button when going from N to D at the lights. This gets rid of the bump. I had/have the same niggle.

There's nothing major to worry about.

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My ls400 1993 does the same. But can get rid of this buy selecting and pushing in the side/thumb button when going from N to D at the lights. This gets rid of the bump. I had/have the same niggle.

There's nothing major to worry about.

Ah, that's just the sort of info I was hoping for, I just tried it, but no difference, I'm afraid, still getting a rather nasty jerk from N to D with or without the side button in

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Go for the ATF change then get the tickover down to 650 RPM, also check the engine and gearbox mounts.

sound like a good plan, I might fiddle with the KD cable a bit, too

I replaced the O2 sensors today, (not easy )and noticed I have a code 63, "open or short No2 solenoid" I guess this is probably the cause of my jerk selecting D, although there are no other symtoms. Having said that, I haven't had it that long, if the fault has always been there, I have nothing to compair it with. The chap at the Toyota dealer said he worked on LS400's in the past, he test drove it and didn't sugest there was a problem- commented it was a quiet as when new!

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hi, interesting thread, just checked my trans fluid and its engine oil coloured not cherry red so that jobs now on my list. Seem to remember reading somewhere you should check the fluid level on a warm engine, is that correct?

I get the occaisional thump when selecting 'd' but its random i think.

Also is there filters or something in the box to change with the atf ?

thanks steve

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You can check it either cold or hot as there are 2 sets of marks on the dipstick, the proceedure is to start the engine then go slowly from park to 1 and back twice then with the engine still running check the level on the hot or cold marks accordingly.

Yes you are correct there is a transmission filter it is accessed by removing the transmission "sump" plate and should be replaced at the same time as the fluid.

As usual Lexls has provided the tutorial for the filter change here http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/transchange.html

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