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Changing Rear Discs & Pads On Gs300 Mk2


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OK, having renewed my front discs and pads with Mintex kit last week and then refurbed the caliper holders (pins, bushes and rubbers) I decided to go all out and do the same to the rear.

I have got to tell you, it is not that hard! You can save yourself a fortune over getting it done at Lexus and having used the helpful guides on this site to do the front (could not find one for the rear) I decided to do this thread for others that may need to carry out the task.

Firstly the kit - All new, anti squeel kit, fixing pin kit, clip kit, lithum grease, new mintex pads and new mintex discs.

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Next the tools - Socket set, torque bar, breaker bar for the two 17mm nuts holding caliper, socket set, jack, that's it really.

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So, wheel off and car jacked up, in park and bricks under front tyres (well, you never know!). The old, scored disc is shown.

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Undo the two bolts holding on the caliper, really easy to spot. Use the breaker bar to remove - 17mm socket required.

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Remove the caliper and tie it up out of the way as displayed below and then you simply pull off the old disc! Great! Remove the rubber seal from the face of the old disc and put it in the set hole on the new disc.

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Push the new disc on .... looking nice and clean

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Fit the caliper back on - torque for the two 17mm nuts I did not know so I just torqued them to f&%king tight. Cover all sides of the anti squeel plates with the lithium grease, add some to the caliper pistons (after retracting them, I used a caliper retractor tool) and slide the pads into place.

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Next, put in the pins and the clip to hold the pads in place and stop them rattling. I used a screw driver to push the clip into place.

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Fitted picture ....

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That's it really .....

Old scored disc ..... will not be missed

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OK, the discs were done, and looking at the wheels, I just could not put them back on without trying to do something with them ..... outsides were nice, insides like this ....

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I decided to tackle this with some acid wheel cleaner, a wheels brush and a small wire brush. I believe the rusty inner wheel problem is one shared by many members on this site ... here is the solution. Hard work though. Remove all the excess rust first, wet the wheel, apply acid cleaner and scrub away ....

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Eventually, you will end up with a wheel that looks like this ...

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Nice!

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I decided to do this to all the wheels in the end once I had done the rears.

Finally, finished, all mintex discs and pads fitted, well chuffed and saved myself a whole bunch of pennies, that I bough some rear LED lights with :whistling:

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Is it me or are the handbrake shoes shot? Seems like there is hardly any friction material left on them?

Well, there is more material on them than the picture shows, it does look pretty thin. Wouldn't call them shot, maybe a bit lower than new :)

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Is it me or are the handbrake shoes shot? Seems like there is hardly any friction material left on them?

It's just you mate, you don't need much as they don't wear unless you use the parking brake a lot when you are moving :D

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nice tutorial ! i'm to do mine soon, so that helps

a message to tiger fish:

is this tutorial the same for the MK1 discs? any variations ?

i think this should be moved to the maintenance section

:)

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Excellent write up mate, well done. Only thing I would add is I would use copper slip rather than lithium grease on the shims and pad backs etc.

nice tutorial ! i'm to do mine soon, so that helps

a message to tiger fish:

is this tutorial the same for the MK1 discs? any variations ?

i think this should be moved to the maintenance section

:)

Mk1 is pretty much the same other than the calipers are a single piston sliding caliper, rather than an oposing double piston. You can find that sometimes the discs don't just pull off due to the handbrake shoes catching on a lip on the edge of the drum. You then need to back-off the self adjuster. You can't see it in Patches pics, but the self adjuster is at the bottom side of the shoes, you basically align the plugged hole in the disc (which should line up with the hole in the hub) by rotating the hole to the bottom, and sticking a screwdriver through to turn the ratchet back a few turns. Hope that makes sense, it probably does once you see it infront of you. This applies to the mk2 as well. Once back together, wind the adjuster out to take up most of the slack and make sure the shoes aren't catching. The footbrake should then take up any other adjustment.

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  • 6 months later...

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