Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Fitted Footwell Leds


Cous3
 Share

Recommended Posts

Finally got round to fitting the LEDs in the footwells, only had them since December!!.....lol

Okay, first pic is extending those really thin LED wires, pic is how I twisted them before adding the solder and covering with heatshrink. You can see the other wire already covered with heatshrink.

366043617.jpg

Three brackets I made up with light ali strips and stuck to the drivers side lower dash using double sided stickers (the strong ones), then attached the LEDs.

364245609.jpg

Extended LED wires with an inline fuse holder fitted. (I wanted plenty of slack in the wires in case I needed to remove the lower dash as I'd soldered the joins, they were flaked up and held with cable ties neatly).

364245602.jpg

LEDs wired to the Ignition Ring, a better pic of the wiring.

364245605.jpg

Drivers side completed.

364245610.jpg

Passenger side LEDs fitted......and my ugly mug.

366043560.jpg

All done.

366043558.jpg

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites



Nice job mate, I've had those LED strips sitting around for months now too! Is it easy to remove that panel under the dash then? Never thought of removing that when I get round to it, but that may make installation a lot easier..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Great pics/write up as usual Keith. nothing less is expected these days :lol:

It's funny how this is becoming a very popular mod, a year ago there were just one or two of us with them.

@ Asi no seperate switch, using the ignition ring or dome light as a feed, the LED's will come on

with the interior light when you open the door, and then also fade out in time as well :)

(click image for video, the fadeout looks much better in real life)

th_Vid1.jpg

As a reminder, you do need to ensure there is an inline fuse, and possibly (purely as a precaution)

a seperate diode to prevent a feedback loop if one of the LED's in the strip fails.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Asi, there is naturally a T-section join where the extended LED wires (Green in the pic) are soldered/heatshink covered to the Ignition light wires. However, if you look very closely at the pics you will see where the Black heatshrink is that one end has a single Green wire, it goes into the heatshink and two Black/White Dot wires come out. All this means is that I flattened the top of the "T" and covered them with the heatshrink to make the join safe and stronger.

I guess you could put in a seperate switch, but as Wozza said it works off the Ignition Ring Lights so comes on and fades off when the doors open/close, or will go off before the timed fade out if you put the key in the Ignition or push the Drivers Side Door Lock, as the Ignition Ring Light does.

Okay couple of things here. First Parthiban to get enough room to drop that panel (I didn't need to completely remove it) there are just 3 screws and a couple of clips, you just gentley pull it away, however it will not come completely free/away unless you remove the bonnett Release Lever and the Socket where you plug the ECU Reader. .....but you won't need to, just drop it as I have done.

Next the Ignition Ring is held in with just 1 brass screw, take it out and pull the Ignition Light Ring away. There are 2 attachments to the Ignition Ring, if you look in the pic with the LEDs lite you will see top right of the pic a thick green wire with a white connector, disconnect both to allow you to pull it right out. The Black/White dot wires were the Light wires on mine, no brainer here because they are the ones that go to the Light. You can chase the wires from the Ignition Ring back about 4 inches where they make a connection to the main OEM loom and disconnect that connector which makes life easier and allows you more room to work.

I recommend just taking the Panel off and the Ignition Ring first before you do any work just to familiarise yourself with the layout, it is very simple, but once you see the set up it is easier to plan your work.

REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE FUSE FIRST BEFORE STARTING WORK.............The fuse you need to pull is in the passenger side footwell fuse box, centre row, 2nd down, 7.5 amp Orange, this will kill the Dome light above your head and most of the other interior lights. Just as a did you know, removing this fuse also disables locking the car with the fob......oh also my remote closing mirrors wouldn't close, just be aware if you have to lock the car half way through this mod, use the key in the lock.

DON'T FORGET THE IN-LINE FUSE WITH A VERY LOW AMP RATING........

As usual big thanks to Wozza for showing me his LEDS back at the Ace meet in December and giving me the enthusiasm to do mine.

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant stuff mate, definitely have to get round to doing this myself soon..........one last question, is the speedo surround held on with just the two screws just above the speedo, or is it held anywhere else?

Thanks again for the guide, will make things a lot easier :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Meant to add that both the wires to the Ignition Ring Light were Black/White Dots, so you will need a test lamp to find the live, and remember before you solder to check you have the LED wires the correct way round or they won't work.

The speedo has 2 screws at the top and 1 screw further down just below the Ignition Ring, after removing them you need to disconnect the Dash Dimmer connector at the back of the dimmer to completely remove the surround, gentley pull it away.

Also for referance, the lower screw for the dash surround is also 1 you need to remove to drop the panel, along with 2 more screws at the lower edge of the panel......hope this helps.

I wasn't going to solder at first as I haven't soldered anything since I was a school some 33+ years ago, but Steve's post about his Headlight LED Eyebrows got me thinking I too should give soldering a go. So off to Maplins for my bits and pieces (wouldn't it be great if we could get a LOC discount at Maplins.....lol). Without a doubt soldering is the best way to connect wires, especially of different sizes, and the heatshrink just hold them altogether nice and safe and makes a good strong join. As most say who do mods like this "If I can do it then anyone can do it", you just need a steady hand....lol.

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
As a reminder, you do need to ensure there is an inline fuse, and possibly (purely as a precaution)

a seperate diode to prevent a feedback loop if one of the LED's in the strip fails.

what type size diode would need to be used and where would it go in the curcuit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a reminder, you do need to ensure there is an inline fuse, and possibly (purely as a precaution)

a seperate diode to prevent a feedback loop if one of the LED's in the strip fails.

what type size diode would need to be used and where would it go in the curcuit.

Sorry just had to bump this up the page again as no one has answered if no one does i'll ask the question in the electrical area as i wanna get this done today thanku

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership