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How To Change Your Heater Matrix


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Hi Everyone,

I have had my Lexus IS200 for 18 mths now, it has been a nice car so far. Yesterday when driving I started to hear a water sound coming from the dash, then sure enough the smell of radiator water. Doing the right thing I stoped by a car shop to have a qoute, needless to say $$$$ouch just for the labour. I was once in the auto trade myself and wasn't happy to be screwed, so DIY.

I looked online but found little info on how to change it, and the info I did find told of stories of having to remove the dash etc. NOT TRUE!!

It took me 5 mins to remove and 45 mins to install. Here is how you do it:

Tools required:

phillps head screw driver

Torch or some form of light

Pliers

Hacksaw

Hose the same dia as the heater hose

4 hose clamps

Proceedure:

Removal

1. In the engine bay, Losen/remove both hose clamps on heater hoses.

2. Disconnect Both heater hoses (if they are stuck on try to twist them).

3. In the cabin, Remove the pannel below the stering wheel (three screws), then dissconnect fog lights, dimmer, air temp senor and unlatch bonnet cable.

4. Remove the 3 screws (these hold the heater and the heater pipes in place).

5. Slide the heater out, as it is broken anyway just yank the pipes out, they will bend very easy.

note: you may want to have some rages on hand to catch any water that comes out of the matrix or pipes.

Install

1. On the new Matrix, cut the frist pipe (higher pipe on matrix). Make the cut in beetween the two mounting positions on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

2. On the new Matrix, cut the second pipe (lower pipe on matrix). Make the cut before the mounting position on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

3. Cut two lenghts of hose and install both on the matrix side of the pipe. Be gentle when installing.

4. Place losely two hose clamps on each hose, fasten the clamp close to the matrix. Keep in mind the positioning of the clamps for easy access later.

5. Gently side the matrix into place. You may need to rotate the pipes to clear everthing for a smooth entry.

6. Once in place, re-latch (screw up) the frist mount and tighten.

7. Starting with the lower pipe (it goes throught the top hole in the firewall), once though the top hole insert it into the hose to connect it to the matrix.

8. Once in the right position tighten both mount for that pipe and also second hose clamp.

9. repeat above step but though the lower hole in the firewall.

10. In the engine bay, reconnect hoses and hose clamps.

11. Top up water.

12. In cabin, re-install pannel below steering wheel.

13. Start car, top up water again

Note: it is allways a good Idea to check no water is leaking from the re-installed pipes and matrix

Done.

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Sounds like you did well, good write up also, cant really picture what parts you are talking about but sure if someone had to do this also it would make sense as they were doing it, good work, maybe next time you do a DIY job, maybe you could take your digital camera along with you>

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  • 1 month later...
  • 8 years later...

Hi Guys, 

Just want to contribute to this thread - i've always been in the frame of mind of leeching of others (self gain) and not contribute to the community as a whole.  

 

I want to thank baysidebluebnr34 for the valuable information you put above.  Your method does work with the added modification of inserting a sleeve on the cut sections of the aluminium pipe coming from the firewall to the matrix.  I've taken a step further - i managed to release the matrix from the two aluminium pipes using a screwdriver to gently massage the pressed tabs open as it connects to the matrix.  The key is to take it slowly - alot of people suggested that once you mess with aluminium (especially if it's been in the car for a while) it may fracture. As mentioned, key is to take it slowly.

 

Once both pipes are free (and with the instructions by baysidebluebnr34 then you'll be able to remove the matrix leaving the pipes intact.  My matrix was blocked due to lack of coolant change thus causing rust and debris to build up in the matrix.  Also, my thermostat failed at one point (i thought it was my water pump - phew!).. which caused some of the rubber gasket to perish and get lodged in my heater matrix.

After removing the matrix i decided to replace it with one that was pulled from a lexus of 1 year of age (lucky me!).. 

When i came to re-install - i did everything in reverse however i added some RTV gasket sealant (made for replacing gaskets in around lubricants like oil / water etc).  This stuff, once set doesn't shrink and can take temperatures below -62C to 370C - i'm sure my temp wont hit the bottom or top of the said tolerance.  after reconnecting the pipes i added some more of the RTV sealant just to be sure.  My car's heater is like a hair dryer now - toasty!  With the thermostat replaced the heating on my car works efficiently and brings the heater in action within a few minutes.

I have taken pictures which i shall upload shortly.

I hope this post helps others - i may make a video as i know there isn't one available but will help the mass.

Any questions - please fire away.

 

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Oh and if anyone is looking for a new replacement heater matrix - you'll find an after market one available online.  Where do we all go for parts hoping someone in the country / world has one! :)

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  • 11 months later...
On 12/18/2009 at 2:05 PM, baysidebluebnr34 said:

Hi Everyone,

I have had my Lexus IS200 for 18 mths now, it has been a nice car so far. Yesterday when driving I started to hear a water sound coming from the dash, then sure enough the smell of radiator water. Doing the right thing I stoped by a car shop to have a qoute, needless to say $$$$ouch just for the labour. I was once in the auto trade myself and wasn't happy to be screwed, so DIY.

I looked online but found little info on how to change it, and the info I did find told of stories of having to remove the dash etc. NOT TRUE!!

It took me 5 mins to remove and 45 mins to install. Here is how you do it:

Tools required:

phillps head screw driver

Torch or some form of light

Pliers

Hacksaw

Hose the same dia as the heater hose

4 hose clamps

Proceedure:

Removal

1. In the engine bay, Losen/remove both hose clamps on heater hoses.

2. Disconnect Both heater hoses (if they are stuck on try to twist them).

3. In the cabin, Remove the pannel below the stering wheel (three screws), then dissconnect fog lights, dimmer, air temp senor and unlatch bonnet cable.

4. Remove the 3 screws (these hold the heater and the heater pipes in place).

5. Slide the heater out, as it is broken anyway just yank the pipes out, they will bend very easy.

note: you may want to have some rages on hand to catch any water that comes out of the matrix or pipes.

Install

1. On the new Matrix, cut the frist pipe (higher pipe on matrix). Make the cut in beetween the two mounting positions on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

2. On the new Matrix, cut the second pipe (lower pipe on matrix). Make the cut before the mounting position on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

3. Cut two lenghts of hose and install both on the matrix side of the pipe. Be gentle when installing.

4. Place losely two hose clamps on each hose, fasten the clamp close to the matrix. Keep in mind the positioning of the clamps for easy access later.

5. Gently side the matrix into place. You may need to rotate the pipes to clear everthing for a smooth entry.

6. Once in place, re-latch (screw up) the frist mount and tighten.

7. Starting with the lower pipe (it goes throught the top hole in the firewall), once though the top hole insert it into the hose to connect it to the matrix.

8. Once in the right position tighten both mount for that pipe and also second hose clamp.

9. repeat above step but though the lower hole in the firewall.

10. In the engine bay, reconnect hoses and hose clamps.

11. Top up water.

12. In cabin, re-install pannel below steering wheel.

13. Start car, top up water again

Note: it is allways a good Idea to check no water is leaking from the re-installed pipes and matrix

Done.

Top banana!!, Just saved me all the trouble and time to take out the dash. Perfect instructions,easy to follow. Best of all no leaks and plenty of warm air again. Cheers fella, hope other people read this before taking their dash out 👌😀

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Top banana!!, Just saved me all the trouble and time to take out the dash. Perfect instructions,easy to follow. Best of all no leaks and plenty of warm air again. Cheers fella, hope other people read this before taking their dash out 👌😀

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  • 10 months later...
On 12/18/2009 at 2:05 PM, baysidebluebnr34 said:

Hi Everyone,

I have had my Lexus IS200 for 18 mths now, it has been a nice car so far. Yesterday when driving I started to hear a water sound coming from the dash, then sure enough the smell of radiator water. Doing the right thing I stoped by a car shop to have a qoute, needless to say $$$$ouch just for the labour. I was once in the auto trade myself and wasn't happy to be screwed, so DIY.

I looked online but found little info on how to change it, and the info I did find told of stories of having to remove the dash etc. NOT TRUE!!

It took me 5 mins to remove and 45 mins to install. Here is how you do it:

Tools required:

phillps head screw driver

Torch or some form of light

Pliers

Hacksaw

Hose the same dia as the heater hose

4 hose clamps

Proceedure:

Removal

1. In the engine bay, Losen/remove both hose clamps on heater hoses.

2. Disconnect Both heater hoses (if they are stuck on try to twist them).

3. In the cabin, Remove the pannel below the stering wheel (three screws), then dissconnect fog lights, dimmer, air temp senor and unlatch bonnet cable.

4. Remove the 3 screws (these hold the heater and the heater pipes in place).

5. Slide the heater out, as it is broken anyway just yank the pipes out, they will bend very easy.

note: you may want to have some rages on hand to catch any water that comes out of the matrix or pipes.

Install

1. On the new Matrix, cut the frist pipe (higher pipe on matrix). Make the cut in beetween the two mounting positions on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

2. On the new Matrix, cut the second pipe (lower pipe on matrix). Make the cut before the mounting position on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

3. Cut two lenghts of hose and install both on the matrix side of the pipe. Be gentle when installing.

4. Place losely two hose clamps on each hose, fasten the clamp close to the matrix. Keep in mind the positioning of the clamps for easy access later.

5. Gently side the matrix into place. You may need to rotate the pipes to clear everthing for a smooth entry.

6. Once in place, re-latch (screw up) the frist mount and tighten.

7. Starting with the lower pipe (it goes throught the top hole in the firewall), once though the top hole insert it into the hose to connect it to the matrix.

8. Once in the right position tighten both mount for that pipe and also second hose clamp.

9. repeat above step but though the lower hole in the firewall.

10. In the engine bay, reconnect hoses and hose clamps.

11. Top up water.

12. In cabin, re-install pannel below steering wheel.

13. Start car, top up water again

Note: it is allways a good Idea to check no water is leaking from the re-installed pipes and matrix

Done.

These instructions allowed me to find the reason my headlights have not worked since I got my heater matrix installed at a local garage. Inside the cabin and disconnecting the rear foglights seems to have stopped the headlights from also working. All other lights working except headlights and rear foglight. I found in another forum that if that plug has not been inserted correctly those lights fail to work. Just thought I would put this here if someone else has the same issue.

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