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I've just purchased a set of OEM rear break pads for my IS250. I am considering doing it myself. Need some advice on the following:

1) What side of the new pads do I apply copper grease to? (i am assuming the sides that are going to touch the discs?)

2) What do i clean with the break cleaning spray? (As i'm replacing the old pads with new ones, i cant make sense of why new pads might need cleaning)

3) Do I need to leave break fluid cap open in the bonnet like some people do?

3) Finally, i've come across the metal shims that the pads have on them. Do i just swap the shims out from the old pads to the new ones?

Would really appreciate some advice on this from some experts.

Thanks in advanced.

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:sad: lol, well i am quite sure i know how to do it. Just needing advice mainly on cleaning related and greasing related stuff

Your questions suggest that you should really leave brakes to someone a bit more familiar until you have done more DIY manitenance; but we all have to learn, so attempting to answer your questions. This is not a complete guide and I am sure others will add to it:-

1) No grease ever on the braking surfaces of either pads or disks

2) Personally I would restrict cleaning to brushing away anything loose & dry. Anything sticky or oily suggest leaking brakes - a different ball-game.

3) When you ease the caliper-pistons back to make room for the thicker new pads (find a book to tell you how to do this without damaging anything), hydraulic fluid will get pushed back into the brake reservoir and the level in it will rise - often a lot, and can overflow or squirt out of the little breather hole in its top. Be ready - you may need a length of plastic hose to suck some excess fluid away and dump it in a jar etc.

4) Fit the new shims as and where the old ones were.

MOST IMPORTANT

(i) Do not even attempt this if you don't understand these answers or are not completely confident about doing the job. This is a really major safety area.

(ii) Find out how to visually assess if the disks are OK and not worn or distorted before you change the pads.

(iii) When you ease back the pistons as in (3), you may disturb the safety features of the dual-circuit braking system and leave only half working. Make sure you know how this can happen and what to do about it before you start.

(iv) Make sure you have some of the correct brake fluid handy to top up the reservoir to the correct level when you have finished. Do not reuse old stuff.

(v)Test your brakes somewhere safe before you go on any journey. If they are worse than before you started GET HELP. New pads will need only a little bedding in before they are at their best.

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I've just purchased a set of OEM rear break pads for my IS250. I am considering doing it myself. Need some advice on the following:

1) What side of the new pads do I apply copper grease to? (i am assuming the sides that are going to touch the discs?)

2) What do i clean with the break cleaning spray? (As i'm replacing the old pads with new ones, i cant make sense of why new pads might need cleaning)

3) Do I need to leave break fluid cap open in the bonnet like some people do?

3) Finally, i've come across the metal shims that the pads have on them. Do i just swap the shims out from the old pads to the new ones?

Would really appreciate some advice on this from some experts.

Thanks in advanced.

have a search on the toyota oc site as there are pictorial guides for brakes .
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1) What side of the new pads do I apply copper grease to? (i am assuming the sides that are going to touch the discs?)

Seriously, if you have to ask that question AND put in brackets where you honestly think grease should go - this job is not for you.

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If you want to pop over to mine (Melbourn Nr Royston), i will show and help you to do it.

This is the best suggestion so far. The job is not rocket science - you can tell that because those who do it for a living don't need to be rocket scientists, they are just everyday people who have learned specialised but fairly easy techniques. So please take up Phil67's kind and generous offer. All the routine servicing jobs are within the grasp of anybody who has the time, doesn't mind getting a bit dirty and isn't completely kack-handed. Doing them yourself can save you a fortune and give you the assurance of knowing exactly what has been done to your car. Someone who is prepared to pass their knowledge on in this way is worth their weight in gold.

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