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Underseal - Dinitrol Or Wayoyl


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Hi All,

After just having only had the beast for roughly two weeks, like all previous cars, i will set about re-undersealing the car. Normally just checking the underside for any loose bits, removing if neccesary and then applying some new underseal over the top of the existing stuff.

I have always used Waxoyl, and to date, have never had any prolems, or rust!!!!!

Recently though i have been reading, on the internet, an increasing number of very unhappy campers when it comes to waxoyl, suggesting Dinitrol, and there various apps instead.

Anyone got any thoughts on this. Anyone had any experiance of Dinitrol?

Phil.

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Hi All,

After just having only had the beast for roughly two weeks, like all previous cars, i will set about re-undersealing the car. Normally just checking the underside for any loose bits, removing if neccesary and then applying some new underseal over the top of the existing stuff.

I have always used Waxoyl, and to date, have never had any prolems, or rust!!!!!

Recently though i have been reading, on the internet, an increasing number of very unhappy campers when it comes to waxoyl, suggesting Dinitrol, and there various apps instead.

Anyone got any thoughts on this. Anyone had any experiance of Dinitrol?

Phil.

Wouldn't have even thought about underseal on the LS400 ............. Have they ever been known to rust ? or even to have any suspicion of doing so ?

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Hi All,

After just having only had the beast for roughly two weeks, like all previous cars, i will set about re-undersealing the car. Normally just checking the underside for any loose bits, removing if neccesary and then applying some new underseal over the top of the existing stuff.

I have always used Waxoyl, and to date, have never had any prolems, or rust!!!!!

Recently though i have been reading, on the internet, an increasing number of very unhappy campers when it comes to waxoyl, suggesting Dinitrol, and there various apps instead.

Anyone got any thoughts on this. Anyone had any experiance of Dinitrol?

Phil.

Have to agree with Malc about rust.

I do from time to time paint the suspension components with Waxoyl but only because I like to see them black. Pointless really unless I lay under the car to have a look.

So I would say satisfy yourself that all is well.

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Hi People,

Cheers for that. Dont really know an auwfull lot about the lex, as i havent had her for very long, but my theory regarding the underseal is that, over time the factory underseal hardens, and can list and then you end up with pockets of moisture, then the dreaded tinworm as a result.

However, i suppose we are talking about a Lex here.

Cheers for the info people.

Hope all are well.

Phil.

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Check out Bilt Hamber products especially:-

DYNAX S50 this has been tested by Popular classics and came out best."Class winning protectionand performance"

It offers high penetration, flexibility, as well as direct onto rust anti corrosion, self sealing etc. "Impressive stuff" Jaguar World Monthly magazine. 5ltr £39.10

www.bilthamber.com

I have no connection except that I used this and the degreaser as well as the Hydrate 80. All be good on my old camper van. Didn't need any of it on the Lexus as yet.

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Check out Bilt Hamber products especially:-

DYNAX S50 this has been tested by Popular classics and came out best."Class winning protectionand performance"

It offers high penetration, flexibility, as well as direct onto rust anti corrosion, self sealing etc. "Impressive stuff" Jaguar World Monthly magazine. 5ltr £39.10

www.bilthamber.com

I have no connection except that I used this and the degreaser as well as the Hydrate 80. All be good on my old camper van. Didn't need any of it on the Lexus as yet.

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all depends on what spec of dinitrol you use - AV8 or AV30, AV8 is easily sprayed and AV30 is heavy duty. Its nasty horrible stuff and it stinks. It wont last as a true undersealer but it will be ok for use withing recesses and frame folds etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wouldn't have even thought about underseal on the LS400 ............. Have they ever been known to rust ? or even to have any suspicion of doing so ?

Yes they do rust...but only a little. Its only just short of a Rolls Royce paintjob. Its 17yrs old & done 220k and the only visible rust spots are small bubbles (2cm) on the wheel arch when opening both back doors. BUT - I've had warnings on MOT for a rusting jacking point and the subframe assy, which i believe is attached to the chassis and is a pain or a massive expense to replace. oh and autoglass told me i'd have trouble when replacing the windscreen as the point where roof meets windscreen is dodgy due to the leaky sunroof syndrome some LS's suffer from.

But it still looks good from the outside

and back to the underseal...the MOT bloke said i should spray on some old wax type sealy stuff (yes, I forgot what he said shortly after...) all over the suspension & stuff underneath to keep the rubbers usable and he said keeps the crap off..he told me no-one does it anymore but it does work

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I had the same.

Upon looking at my jacking points, even though i had none on the front, i did have a little surface stuff on the rear. I applied Kurust, and once that had turned blue and gone off, i rubbed off the rust, and then applied Kurust again just to make sure i had got everything. I then put Underseal over the area, and once dry, a layer of Waxoyl on top to keep the Underseal from drying out and lifting or splitting.

Every time i jack up any car i have ever owned, i always inspect the area afterwards, and if needed, just give it a little dab with some underseal, just to be on the safe side.

Phil.

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To add a little more to that point,

Upon doing a little research, i have discovered that it looks like the rear jacking points (not the rail on the edge of the sill, but the flat area in front of the rear wheel arches), never had any underseal applied to them, so some surface rust is to be expected. Many garages dont take that much care and attention when jacking up your motor.

If in doubt, apply some Waxoyl, Dinitrol or similar. Given the cost and hassle of having such problems fixed, its better to be on the safe side.

Hope all are well.

Phil.

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This has become a regular topic on the SD1 forum I'm on aswell as of late,All I can say is that there is one guy who wouldn't fit a bulb on his car without a weeks spec checking (such is the level of detail on his 4 year rebuild) and all he will use is the bilt hamber DYNAX stuff....There has been mention of waxoil coming off very badly in recent independant tests, that said I would imagine anything would be better than nothing and regularly applying would make even the cheapest underseal reasonable.

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This has become a regular topic on the SD1 forum I'm on aswell as of late,All I can say is that there is one guy who wouldn't fit a bulb on his car without a weeks spec checking (such is the level of detail on his 4 year rebuild) and all he will use is the bilt hamber DYNAX stuff....There has been mention of waxoil coming off very badly in recent independant tests, that said I would imagine anything would be better than nothing and regularly applying would make even the cheapest underseal reasonable.

Ah, the SD1, now THATS a car, crap around the corners, but in a straight line, boot it and SMILE!!!!! Superb.

How dows that dynax stuff fair in terms of lengevity. Yes, everyone should check their underside regularly, but in terms of underseals, obviously you are applying underseal on top of the factory applied stuff, and i have heard that by applying Waxoyl, it kind of moisturises the existing stuff, stopping it from hardening and lifting, and therefor developing moisture pockets, and then the dreaded tinworm. Is dynax good for going over the top of the existing stuff. ALso, can you use it on all sections.

Regards,

Phil.

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This has become a regular topic on the SD1 forum I'm on aswell as of late,All I can say is that there is one guy who wouldn't fit a bulb on his car without a weeks spec checking (such is the level of detail on his 4 year rebuild) and all he will use is the bilt hamber DYNAX stuff....There has been mention of waxoil coming off very badly in recent independant tests, that said I would imagine anything would be better than nothing and regularly applying would make even the cheapest underseal reasonable.

Ah, the SD1, now THATS a car, crap around the corners, but in a straight line, boot it and SMILE!!!!! Superb.

How dows that dynax stuff fair in terms of lengevity. Yes, everyone should check their underside regularly, but in terms of underseals, obviously you are applying underseal on top of the factory applied stuff, and i have heard that by applying Waxoyl, it kind of moisturises the existing stuff, stopping it from hardening and lifting, and therefor developing moisture pockets, and then the dreaded tinworm. Is dynax good for going over the top of the existing stuff. ALso, can you use it on all sections.

Regards,

Phil.

Waxoyl is wonderful stuff but neither it or anything else should be applied on top of underseal, esp. factory fitted. Factory stuff has impact qualities; its when it fails that water ingress causes problems.

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This has become a regular topic on the SD1 forum I'm on aswell as of late,All I can say is that there is one guy who wouldn't fit a bulb on his car without a weeks spec checking (such is the level of detail on his 4 year rebuild) and all he will use is the bilt hamber DYNAX stuff....There has been mention of waxoil coming off very badly in recent independant tests, that said I would imagine anything would be better than nothing and regularly applying would make even the cheapest underseal reasonable.

Ah, the SD1, now THATS a car, crap around the corners, but in a straight line, boot it and SMILE!!!!! Superb.

How dows that dynax stuff fair in terms of lengevity. Yes, everyone should check their underside regularly, but in terms of underseals, obviously you are applying underseal on top of the factory applied stuff, and i have heard that by applying Waxoyl, it kind of moisturises the existing stuff, stopping it from hardening and lifting, and therefor developing moisture pockets, and then the dreaded tinworm. Is dynax good for going over the top of the existing stuff. ALso, can you use it on all sections.

Regards,

Phil.

Waxoyl is wonderful stuff but neither it or anything else should be applied on top of underseal, esp. factory fitted. Factory stuff has impact qualities; its when it fails that water ingress causes problems.

So I suppose that means removing the old stuff first!

Thats a b*****d of a job. EIther that or go for the easy option and just touch any affect or loose areas.

Regards,

Phil.

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This has become a regular topic on the SD1 forum I'm on aswell as of late,All I can say is that there is one guy who wouldn't fit a bulb on his car without a weeks spec checking (such is the level of detail on his 4 year rebuild) and all he will use is the bilt hamber DYNAX stuff....There has been mention of waxoil coming off very badly in recent independant tests, that said I would imagine anything would be better than nothing and regularly applying would make even the cheapest underseal reasonable.

Ah, the SD1, now THATS a car, crap around the corners, but in a straight line, boot it and SMILE!!!!! Superb.

How dows that dynax stuff fair in terms of lengevity. Yes, everyone should check their underside regularly, but in terms of underseals, obviously you are applying underseal on top of the factory applied stuff, and i have heard that by applying Waxoyl, it kind of moisturises the existing stuff, stopping it from hardening and lifting, and therefor developing moisture pockets, and then the dreaded tinworm. Is dynax good for going over the top of the existing stuff. ALso, can you use it on all sections.

Regards,

Phil.

Waxoyl is wonderful stuff but neither it or anything else should be applied on top of underseal, esp. factory fitted. Factory stuff has impact qualities; its when it fails that water ingress causes problems.

So I suppose that means removing the old stuff first!

Thats a b*****d of a job. EIther that or go for the easy option and just touch any affect or loose areas.

Regards,

Phil.

Just adding to that, i gather its ok to spray it over your suspension components. Itll make em look better and stop any corrosion.

Phil.

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