Running An Is200

[nevarthur]

Hi all,

As I have made a couple of posts requesting help today, I thought it only fair to try and redress the balance a bit by offering up some points that may help one or two of you.

Firstly, I would thoroughly recomend the IS200, whatever your budget for a car. I could get a replacement, and frankly, three and a half years with a car is unusually long for to keep one, but I still really like mine.

The fuel consumption *is* heavy, no doubt. There are 3 things worth considering to help with this.

1st. Consider resetting the ECU unit. It just involves taking out a couple of fuses for a short period. Search on here in the search box at the bottom of the page. Somebody else wrote a detailed account of how to do it that was easy to follow. Just one thing. Have a good grip on the fuse when you extract it, or a magnetic screwdriver to retrieve it from where it falls when you drop it! I don't know exactly why this works, but it did for me. I struggled to break more than 280 miles a tankful in the first few months of owning this car. I would suggest possibly an improvement of up to 40 miles a tank was possible after this.

2nd. Press the Snow button if you don't need every horsepower unit on a regular basis. First thing, this helps smooth out the sudden take-off that may affect the autobox model. I can't comment on the manual model. Then, if you try and drive in relaxed manner with this button pressed everytime you start the car up, or especially on longer motorway runs at 60 to 80 mph, I think if you have the same experience as myself, you could be looking at an extra 100 miles a tank. You do sacrifice performance no doubt, but it doesn't seem to have any other downside, in my opinion. I have been doing this for the last 20,000 or so miles, and haven't lost a gearbox yet! Your rear tyres should last longer too.

3rd. Take on board general driving tips for smoother, more efficient driving. It's not for everyone though, but I enjoy it and it makes things smoother for passengers.

If you live within a couple of hundred miles of Wheels in Motion, I would whole-heartedly recomend a yearly trip to them for setting up the geometry of the car. In my subjective opinion, the car feels nicer, and my last set of tyres lasted 32,000 miles, with just one swap around to even out the wear. But I am a gentle driver also, so don't necessarily expect that milage!

Tyres. When I got the car it had on the Dunlop SPs that were recomended by Lexus. Both my wife and myself found ourselves commenting on the surprising amount of road noise that came from them. Before too long I switched to Bridgestone Potenzas which were a Which? Best Buy, and these have been noticably quieter. I don't race the car so I can't say whether they let go quicker than others in corners, but on occasion when I drive exuberently, they seem to me to grip well, and they do so in the wet as well.

I did have to replace a few suspension components at 60k, on the service. I think this was mainly down to the previous owner being a bit quick over speed humps, but then most people are. I would not count that against the car.

My car does not use oil. End of! I have never added any!

As for other fluids, I had them all changed at 60k, including the autobox fluid. I think that if a manufactuer insists on using oil to stop some components wearing out, then you might as well keep that protection by not letting that oil deterioate! That's just my opinion as well though!

I think she's a really good looking car, but I don't spend loads of money cleaning it. There's a bunch of hard working Lithuanians up the road and that costs me a fiver every couple of months. One problem I did have was with the cigar lighter but the part was reasonably priced, so I ordered it from a local Toyota dealer. As the service bloke was helping me fit it, the old one started working again, so he didn't charge me any fee, and sent me on my way and that's worked for over 2 years with my Garmin Sat-Nav without further problem.

The Factory Fit Double Din sized CD Player is of an unreliable design and I would suggest taking a CD with you if you ever go for a test drive in an IS200 with one. If it comes up with an Error code and won't play, it may be worth haggling because you're going to have to replace it. A stop gap measure might be to buy a Sat-Nav with the ability to store MP3 files on it, and then to play them over a Radio frequency on the standard but broken unit, via the FM Transmitter that is fitted to many high end Sat-Navs. It is possible to upgrade the stereo despite what you may be told by stereo fitters. There is a complication with the wiring harness but you can find the bit of loom necessary to get round the problem on eBay very easily. There was also plenty of advice on this forum about it.

Would I buy another IS200? Yes. However, they're getting old and the Lads are starting to like them, so it makes me look a bit old for mine! Which? Magazine highly recomended them as did their owners, for several years in a row. Honest John's web site also speaks highly of them, and doesn't list pages of potentially expensive problems with them, unlike Audis and BMWs. I would just urge you, pay more for a well looked after example, because it's just so much cheaper than trying to put one right that you've bought cheaply. Don't rely on Service Book stamps with no receipts, and read the service history before you even go on a test drive. Check it carefully, it's all very well having 9 MOT certificates but if it hasn't had a service for 30,000 miles then it's a bit of a risk!

Excuse the long post, but I hope it might be useful to someone at some point.

Nev

[Garthy]

Good post :)

[kev dood]

I would echo the oil point - mine never uses the stuff. Unlike BMWs that do about 1ltr per 1000 miles.

Also, regarding the Dunlop SP9000 Sport tyres. They are excellent for wear, btu as you say, a little noisy. Potenzas are good, but might not last as long. As you cannot get the SP9000 Sport Lexus versions, try the Dunlop Maxx TT's which are excellent. Much quieter and loads of grip. Not cheap, but if you liked the SP9000s then they are the best replacement.

[MeatBawHied]

I would echo the oil point - mine never uses the stuff. Unlike BMWs that do about 1ltr per 1000 miles.

Also, regarding the Dunlop SP9000 Sport tyres. They are excellent for wear, btu as you say, a little noisy. Potenzas are good, but might not last as long. As you cannot get the SP9000 Sport Lexus versions, try the Dunlop Maxx TT's which are excellent. Much quieter and loads of grip. Not cheap, but if you liked the SP9000s then they are the best replacement.

Good Post!

Whats The Trc an Snow Buttons For BTW? Can You Use the Snow button for the motorway like? an what are the benifits of using the trc button?

Yes I am a noob... but one that likes to take on board others opinions an learn,

thanks

[nevarthur]

Good Post!

Whats The Trc an Snow Buttons For BTW? Can You Use the Snow button for the motorway like? an what are the benifits of using the trc button?

Yes I am a noob... but one that likes to take on board others opinions an learn,

thanks

Hi mate,

Well, in my opinion, the snow button seems to have the effect of retarding the timing, or cutting fuel supply or something like that, which reduces the amount of torque (or turning force) available to the driving wheels, thus making it less likely for them to exceed the available grip. When you use it, you should notice that the throttle response is very different to normal. It takes more throttle pressure to get going, and the car seems more sluggish. This is very handy in snow, as you are less likely to break traction and spin round. It's not impossible though, so go easy! ;-)

The trc, or Traction Control button is a very cheap way of trying to pretend the car has a limmited slip differential, but it isn't that good at it in my opinion. If you find a gravel or other slippery surface, line the car up and then pull away vigourously while steering sharply to the left or right to provoke wheelspin, you will notice that the car seems to die as you do so. Push the trc button in though, and you should be able to keep the spin going, and more importantly, the engine doesn't die in the same way, which means on the side that has some grip, the tyre can still propel you. It's useful for me about 2 or 3 times a year, if that, so don't worry if you never use it!

[MeatBawHied]

Thanks for the info m8, cheers!!

[sparkystav]

The snow button works by not opening the throttle as much

the TRC works by shutting the throttle when it detects wheelspin.

[alexsheana]

Great post - I was starting to worry about mine not using Oil - had it for 6 months (first Lexus) and it hasn't used bugger all on 10,000 miles...

Will take your thoughts on tires though, need new ones after the miles I have had to do recently!

[Felix]

Great post,

will try with the ECU reset and snow button for next a few tanks, hope to report back to you guys.

thanks

Felix

[rob200]

I typically get 400 miles to a tank of Tesco 99, 420 is about the best I've done when driving a bit more miss daisy style, but as I like to go quick I don't do it too often :)

Never knowingly reset the ECU but after nearly 10 years of ownership it should be finely tuned to my heavy right foot by now :D

Always liked the Goodyear GS-D3 tyres, which I replaced the Dunlops with after about 3 years from new. Went for cheapo ones on the front earlier this year as I wasn't sure how much longer I'd be keeping the car - definitely not as good grip-wise as the GS-D3s or the newer Goodyears which I have on the back.

[spliffy]

i thought the sport version of the 200is did have a limited slip diff and the se was a standard diff going off the spec sheet posted on these forums

Good Post!

Whats The Trc an Snow Buttons For BTW? Can You Use the Snow button for the motorway like? an what are the benifits of using the trc button?

Yes I am a noob... but one that likes to take on board others opinions an learn,

thanks

Hi mate,

Well, in my opinion, the snow button seems to have the effect of retarding the timing, or cutting fuel supply or something like that, which reduces the amount of torque (or turning force) available to the driving wheels, thus making it less likely for them to exceed the available grip. When you use it, you should notice that the throttle response is very different to normal. It takes more throttle pressure to get going, and the car seems more sluggish. This is very handy in snow, as you are less likely to break traction and spin round. It's not impossible though, so go easy! ;-)

The trc, or Traction Control button is a very cheap way of trying to pretend the car has a limmited slip differential, but it isn't that good at it in my opinion. If you find a gravel or other slippery surface, line the car up and then pull away vigourously while steering sharply to the left or right to provoke wheelspin, you will notice that the car seems to die as you do so. Push the trc button in though, and you should be able to keep the spin going, and more importantly, the engine doesn't die in the same way, which means on the side that has some grip, the tyre can still propel you. It's useful for me about 2 or 3 times a year, if that, so don't worry if you never use it!

[rashid8998]

nice post nevarthur

been using snow button seen an increase in mpg about 60 to a full tank tho.....but slugish very good on motor ways :)

[sjrainsford]

That's a very good post and can echo most of your thoughts. Mine is tatty, with 130k on the clock and it still sounds lovely when warm.

After much deliberation I'm considering going to wheels in motion too. Mine drives all over the shop and I want to get it sorted before putting new tyres on. It's a bit of a treck for me from Staffordshire, but from what I can make out it seems to be well worth it.

[fil4362]

The trc when pressed turns the traction control off. In normal on mode the wheel speed sensors pick up the wheels speed if one wheel is spinning faster (pre determined/pre programmed ammount) than the others then the engine power is cut. The ecu decides one wheel has broken traction and is spinning and cuts engine power until the wheel regains traction. Pressing the button (so the light on the dash comes on) turns of the traction control allowing limitless fun and wheel spin.

[jamesey]

That's a very good post and can echo most of your thoughts. Mine is tatty, with 130k on the clock and it still sounds lovely when warm.

After much deliberation I'm considering going to wheels in motion too. Mine drives all over the shop and I want to get it sorted before putting new tyres on. It's a bit of a treck for me from Staffordshire, but from what I can make out it seems to be well worth it.

is this why mine feels a bit twitchy on the road??? i thought it just needed tracking.

[matt-c]

Definitely go to WIM - they do a lot more than just tracking. Tracking is all well and good, but if the rear is out, then all you're doing is lining the fronts up out too. Mine felt good before, but after it's so much more "planted" and so composed, even when giving it beans through the twistys

[fil4362]

Having not had the experiance of wheels in motion i cannot comment on their work ,Although from what i have heard and looking at theiir spec sheet for the Lexus i can see no reason to not use them. They have calculated wheel geometry specific for your car taking into account wheel size and lowering of suspension and such like. I have seen wims specs and they look good my problem is i only have front wheel tracking gages as i have never invested in the newer 4 wheel ones which can be used to adjust the k.p.i of the car as well which when your car has been lowered it will need adjusting. I know 2 local garages that have the 4 wheel alignment gear one iss a big national company. I have spoke to both of them both cannot set my car to the specs used by wim as they dont know hoow to use the gages correctly (their words not mine) The best option was my local independant garage (whom we share information with and regular thing tank sessions on real problem cars) who seid they would get the manufacturer of the gages back in to set my car to the specs provided. I knwo the local national tyre and exhaust place have many times set tracking with worn out balls joints/track rod ends. I also know they have atleeast twice not adjusted the tracking at all and mealry just smeared the track rod ends (moved when adjustment carried out) with grease. I havve had the need to remove the track rod end and found it totally siezed only days after it was ment to have been adjusted!!.

Your car can handle badley for lots of reasons tyres pressures would be the first port of call. If the tracking is out you will certainly notice the front end feelling "funny". I would sort these two things out first as they are cheapest.