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Ls400 Door Locking Issues


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Hi all

just bought my next LS400.. It had been sitting for a year, after the last owner had blown the main 120A fuse, and none of the electrics worked..thats fixed, so this is my next project

Anyway, the key won't lock the car. Either in the lock or with the fob

I would love the fob to work, but not the worry today..

I have sprayed the inside of the lock with WD40. but when the key goes in it won't rotate fully, hence not engaging the locks. So car is open...

The last owner said the key always used to work the doors. Has anyone had similar issues? Is it a case of stripping down the door and stripping the door lock down.

Central locking works from inner button on door and from shutting the locks so more an issue between the key and the lock

JM

PS car is a 1996 with 144k for £400!

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Hi all

just bought my next LS400.. It had been sitting for a year, after the last owner had blown the main 120A fuse, and none of the electrics worked..thats fixed, so this is my next project

Anyway, the key won't lock the car. Either in the lock or with the fob

I would love the fob to work, but not the worry today..

I have sprayed the inside of the lock with WD40. but when the key goes in it won't rotate fully, hence not engaging the locks. So car is open...

The last owner said the key always used to work the doors. Has anyone had similar issues? Is it a case of stripping down the door and stripping the door lock down.

Central locking works from inner button on door and from shutting the locks so more an issue between the key and the lock

JM

PS car is a 1996 with 144k for £400!

Congratulations on your purchase.

Given that the central locking works from inside, its likely that your suspicions are correct and that the lock will need cleaning. Here's a link to remove the door panel

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

If I remember correctly, there is one more screw on the MKIII than on the tutorial. Whilst the door card is off, clear out any c**p from the bottom of the door and grease the window lift mechanism.

If you have a search on this forum, and you might have to try various keywords, you will find guidance on removal of the lock itself. I haven't done this part of the job but have read the postings so I know they are in here somewhere.

Anothe thought of course is that the WD40 may be working its magic. My daughter's Vauxhall Ashtray boot was seized, I WD40ed it and 3 days later hey presto.

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Hi all

just bought my next LS400.. It had been sitting for a year, after the last owner had blown the main 120A fuse, and none of the electrics worked..thats fixed, so this is my next project

Anyway, the key won't lock the car. Either in the lock or with the fob

I would love the fob to work, but not the worry today..

I have sprayed the inside of the lock with WD40. but when the key goes in it won't rotate fully, hence not engaging the locks. So car is open...

The last owner said the key always used to work the doors. Has anyone had similar issues? Is it a case of stripping down the door and stripping the door lock down.

Central locking works from inner button on door and from shutting the locks so more an issue between the key and the lock

JM

PS car is a 1996 with 144k for £400!

Good buy :) as for the lock if sounds as if the tumblers are seized in the barrel, if you are not in a hurry just strip the lock and remove, clean and refit one tumbler at a time.

Alternatively if you are sure the car has not had a lock change at any time you can order a new door lock cut to the chassis number from any Lexus dealer ;) only £48.52 + vat retail.

Andy

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Alternatively if you are sure the car has not had a lock change at any time you can order a new door lock cut to the chassis number from any Lexus dealer ;) only £48.52 + vat retail.

Andy

That was the bit I forgot to mention; its possible that its had a change of either door or ignition barrel. Does the key operate the passenger door and boot correctly? If not then its likely to have had a change of ignition barrel and the key doesn't fit the doors/boot.

Getting the fob to work will overcome this issue. Please describe the fob, if its like mine, help is at hand.

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Hi

have left the WD40 to work away.. but fear its worse and needs the lock stripped out.

The key fob has a lock and unlock button on the front, it's about an inch long by half an inch wide

Red panic button on the back.

Have put a new Battery in it, and no joy.. does it need re-programmed?? Is this possible??

Cheers

Jamie

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Hi

have left the WD40 to work away.. but fear its worse and needs the lock stripped out.

The key fob has a lock and unlock button on the front, it's about an inch long by half an inch wide

Red panic button on the back.

Have put a new battery in it, and no joy.. does it need re-programmed?? Is this possible??

Cheers

Jamie

Thats why I wanted to know what your fob looked like. Its not the same as mine although you could try re-syncronising the fob with the car; stand close to the car with the doors shut and, with the fob aimed into the car, press the lock button for a good 20 seconds. Try this a couple of times. If this doesn't work, you would be best to use the search facility and try various search terms such as "fob" "remote" etc. There is a load of stuff including a very helpful table which will enable you to determine the make/model of the security system on your car when new. Please note your fob is not one that came with the Scorpion T5000 because mine is.

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My Scorpion 5000 key fob is square-ish, has a square black open/close button and a square red panic button both on the top.

On the sides is a slider switch (for turning on/off the bleep sound) and a 3 pin programming socket.

The back of the fob has nothing on it.

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My Scorpion 5000 key fob is square-ish, has a square black open/close button and a square red panic button both on the top.

On the sides is a slider switch (for turning on/off the bleep sound) and a 3 pin programming socket.

The back of the fob has nothing on it.

Ditto

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, plot thickens..

Stripped door panel down, expecting there to be an issue, as pointed out with the contacts on the back of the door barrel.

But, there was nothing on the back of the door barrel, no wiring loom either..

So I think (as the door handles are a slightly different shade of paint) that at some point someone has changed the handles, and not replaced/renewed the lock contacts

If I buy these, is there somewhere they plug into? do they go into the back of the door lock??

Well confused, and it ain't a tough job, but access to some screws and fixing was terrible!

Only other thought is to replace the alarm system with a new one, hence lock the car with a fob!

Any recomenndadtions??

Jamie

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Ok, plot thickens..

Stripped door panel down, expecting there to be an issue, as pointed out with the contacts on the back of the door barrel.

But, there was nothing on the back of the door barrel, no wiring loom either..

So I think (as the door handles are a slightly different shade of paint) that at some point someone has changed the handles, and not replaced/renewed the lock contacts

If I buy these, is there somewhere they plug into? do they go into the back of the door lock??

Well confused, and it ain't a tough job, but access to some screws and fixing was terrible!

Only other thought is to replace the alarm system with a new one, hence lock the car with a fob!

Any recomenndadtions??

Jamie

Are there no wires inside the door at the bottom or even tucked up the top?

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My car had a Scorpion fitted from new, but had been removed when I got the car. Couldn't do without remote locking, so had a Cobra alarm with remote locking fitted for about £120 if i remember correctly. The alarm isn't that basic as it has motion sensors inside (which look factory fit) but I got it purely for the remote locking.

But good luck in getting yours sorted.

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Can't see any wires tucked in anywhere.

Wondered if they connect down from the lock barrel to the door lock mechanism in the middle of the door.

Hence really confused. there are two wires which run under the door lock mechanism..

Assumed they ran into the centre of the door lock

But they must be there somewhere..

Wondering if I got one from a breaker, that it would have a loom and plug that would plug in somewhwere..

Ideas on a postcard

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Can't see any wires tucked in anywhere.

Wondered if they connect down from the lock barrel to the door lock mechanism in the middle of the door.

Hence really confused. there are two wires which run under the door lock mechanism..

Assumed they ran into the centre of the door lock

But they must be there somewhere..

Wondering if I got one from a breaker, that it would have a loom and plug that would plug in somewhwere..

Ideas on a postcard

Have a look at these and see if they help at all :)

Andy

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/Blade918/LOCK.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/Blade918/DOOR-1.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/Blade918/LOOM.jpg

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Can't see any wires tucked in anywhere.

Wondered if they connect down from the lock barrel to the door lock mechanism in the middle of the door.

Hence really confused. there are two wires which run under the door lock mechanism..

Assumed they ran into the centre of the door lock

But they must be there somewhere..

Wondering if I got one from a breaker, that it would have a loom and plug that would plug in somewhwere..

Ideas on a postcard

Have a look at this tutorial which is to replace the outer handle on an early LS400 http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorhandle.html

A you can see, there is a connector. Without power to this there is no central locking. I assumed that yours had not been reconnected or had some how fell off. If there is definately no wiring present then a new handle is not going to solve the problem.

When someone disconnects a wire, they often tie it up out of the way or even tape it up. I've certainly done it.

If you could find the connecter or even the wires then a replacement handle would be worthwhile.

Simon Taylor who has already contributed to this thread, has a scrapper at the moment. Benfur, another member, breaks these for a living. If there is definately no sign of the apprpriate wiring, then either of these guys might be able to offer more comprehensive ideas and/or wiring and handle. Ive only had my door card off to sort a window issue and so didnt need to study the wiring. It is likey that after the loom enters the door, it splits to provide the various functions - windows, speakers and central locking. You could obtain some or all of the internal wiring and either replace yours in its entirety or just that part you need.

Simon may respond in this thread but I would PM both guys. If you give them your colour code you might even get a handle (if needed) of the correct colour.

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Does this help at all......

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.taylor8817/For%20Sale/frontdoor.pdf

It shows where the door ECU is, assuming that controls the locking etc, and also the rod that connect outer handle with inner handle and actual locking mechanism.

Yes, my drivers door has the door card off, and the doorhandle removed.

Its a long thread..... what am I looking for.

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Does this help at all......

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.taylor8817/For%20Sale/frontdoor.pdf

It shows where the door ECU is, assuming that controls the locking etc, and also the rod that connect outer handle with inner handle and actual locking mechanism.

Yes, my drivers door has the door card off, and the doorhandle removed.

Its a long thread..... what am I looking for.

Hi Simon

Thank you for that pdf.

It would appear that jockmonkey is missing the wiring to the door handle/barrel thus rendering the central locking unworkable. I thought that with a door card removed we could see just what it is that is missing.

It sounds as if his door handle has been replaced without the necessary connections. Notwithstanding that he hasn't had chance to respond to my post earlier today, I'm not certain as to what he will need; it could be he has all the wiring and needs a handle, or the handle is fine and he needs the wiring, or he needs both.

Until your post, I wasn't aware that the door had its own ECU. So in answer to your question, what parts are needed to operate the central locking with the key? The remote operation is irrevellant until the c/l works.

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Does this help at all......

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.taylor8817/For%20Sale/frontdoor.pdf

It shows where the door ECU is, assuming that controls the locking etc, and also the rod that connect outer handle with inner handle and actual locking mechanism.

Yes, my drivers door has the door card off, and the doorhandle removed.

Its a long thread..... what am I looking for.

Hi Simon

Thank you for that pdf.

Happy New Year To Everyone On LOC

Hi Jamie

Yes I have all locks, keys, door Looms available and of course many different coloured handles

I think whats happened to yours, at some point the drivers door lock needed replacing

The previous owner bought a second hand lock - probably from an earlier model which fits the handle - but the loom connectors are different so he just cut the connectors off.

If you email me at stage-1@tiscali.co.uk I can send some pictures of the lock with attached loom

Thanks

Maurice

It would appear that jockmonkey is missing the wiring to the door handle/barrel thus rendering the central locking unworkable. I thought that with a door card removed we could see just what it is that is missing.

It sounds as if his door handle has been replaced without the necessary connections. Notwithstanding that he hasn't had chance to respond to my post earlier today, I'm not certain as to what he will need; it could be he has all the wiring and needs a handle, or the handle is fine and he needs the wiring, or he needs both.

Until your post, I wasn't aware that the door had its own ECU. So in answer to your question, what parts are needed to operate the central locking with the key? The remote operation is irrevellant until the c/l works.

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