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Distributor


mark9876
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hi guys, im posting on behalf of a friend who has a gs300 2jzge engine. he removed the distributor without marking it up. he wants to know how to refit/time the distributor again. i have told him to mark no.1 on the distributor on the body of the distributor then remove then distributor cap. then turn crank clockwise until pointer on pulley lnes up with "0". this would then mean no.1 piston would be at TDC. then turn rotor arm so it aligns up with no.1 on the cap (where he marked it) and push it in and tighten the securing nut/bolt on the body at that point. is this correct?

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You can end up 180 degrees out on the timing that way, would be pot luck (i.e. The crank turns twice for every single turn of the dizzy/cams). To get tdc on the firing stroke you are best taking off the top plastic cover over the cam pulleys. Line up the timing mark on the crank, and check that the notches on the two cam pulleys line up with their marks on the back cover. If not, rotate crank 360 degrees to line back up with zero again, the cam pulley marks should line up this time. Next, line up the notch/mark on the drive cog and distributor body. Next, If you look at the flange on the dizzy that has the slotted hole for allowing adjustment, you will see a little protrusion, line that up with the centre line of the bolt that goes through that slotted hole and push it all together. Once semi tightened, you will need a timing light to set the timing accurately. As a stop gap, as long as tick over is smooth, and there is no pinking under harder acceleration, you should be ok. If you get pinking, just advance slightly until the pinking stops under harder acceleration (that is while driving of course, not just revving on the driveway).

Hope that helps.

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yeah sorry forgot to say i told him to take top cam cover off and align the cam marks with notches at back. so with the crank at "0" and the cams aligned up, turn the distributor arm so it aligns up with no.1 and push it in and tighten, then use timing light/gun to get it spot on?

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thanks thought as much ut wanted to double check before telling my friend what to do. going off topic now but got another question and you seem to be the one helping out at mo so. 2jyze engine, cambelt change. removed fine, timed up fine, new belt on fine but when i tighten the tensioner up, it seems to move the crank 1/2 tooth the the right. this forcing the timing marks out. cam marks stay where they are just the crank moves ????

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thanks thought as much ut wanted to double check before telling my friend what to do. going off topic now but got another question and you seem to be the one helping out at mo so. 2jyze engine, cambelt change. removed fine, timed up fine, new belt on fine but when i tighten the tensioner up, it seems to move the crank 1/2 tooth the the right. this forcing the timing marks out. cam marks stay where they are just the crank moves ????

Just sounds like there is too much slack on the side between the cam and the crank (the side without the tensioner in). I would try and get one less tooth on the straight run and try again. If that makes sense?

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry, can I jump in also.

You may have seen the sorry state of my LS400 on that forum but during the self repair I am looking at geting a MK1 1997 GS300 as a temporary driver.

The car is approaching 120,000 so is ready for a timing belt for the second time ( has FLSH and was done at 60,000) but the price reflects this work beeing needed.

I have googled and searched for a tutorial/write up ( Lexls is my usual resource for the LS) so if there is one could you post the link.

Many thanks,

Steve

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