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Iv'e searched on this and come up with nothing, but surely it has hapened to somebody before....

Every now and then the "O/D " light in the instrument cluster will start blinking at me, in a fairly relaxed and non-urgent manner, but presumably some little computer somewhere is trying to tell me something.

Any ideas welcome

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Iv'e searched on this and come up with nothing, but surely it has hapened to somebody before....

Every now and then the "O/D " light in the instrument cluster will start blinking at me, in a fairly relaxed and non-urgent manner, but presumably some little computer somewhere is trying to tell me something.

Any ideas welcome

According to the w/shop manual 'there is a malfunction code stored in the ECU memory'

Turn ignition on, but do not start engine

Put o/drive switch on..MUST be on.

Connect terminals Te1 and E1 of the TDCL or 'check' connector

read the code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF light blinks

It should blink 2 times a second.

if there is more than one fault the lower numbered code is displayed first.

There are 8 codes listed, get the code then post again.

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According to the w/shop manual 'there is a malfunction code stored in the ECU memory'

Turn ignition on, but do not start engine

Put o/drive switch on..MUST be on.

Connect terminals Te1 and E1 of the TDCL or 'check' connector

read the code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF light blinks

It should blink 2 times a second.

if there is more than one fault the lower numbered code is displayed first.

There are 8 codes listed, get the code then post again.

Right, wonderful info, Ign on, O/D off switch on ("OD off" light on on dash), linked TE1 and E1, codes are (flashing engine block light):-

25 26 31 not what I want, that's air fuel ratio lean, rich, and air flow meter signal. back out to the car...

Got it this time, with the o/d on (button in) I get 63 and 67 from the flashing o/d light

I have a txt file of codes,

63- open or short on no.2 solenoid, I think its sticking, sometimes seems to jump from 1st to 3rd when driving off

67- OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction

Could you confirm if these are correct, and suggest what to do?

Thanks, Ian

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According to the w/shop manual 'there is a malfunction code stored in the ECU memory'

Turn ignition on, but do not start engine

Put o/drive switch on..MUST be on.

Connect terminals Te1 and E1 of the TDCL or 'check' connector

read the code indicated by the number of times the O/D OFF light blinks

It should blink 2 times a second.

if there is more than one fault the lower numbered code is displayed first.

There are 8 codes listed, get the code then post again.

Right, wonderful info, Ign on, O/D off switch on ("OD off" light on on dash), linked TE1 and E1, codes are (flashing engine block light):-

25 26 31 not what I want, that's air fuel ratio lean, rich, and air flow meter signal. back out to the car...

Got it this time, with the o/d on (button in) I get 63 and 67 from the flashing o/d light

I have a txt file of codes,

63- open or short on no.2 solenoid, I think its sticking, sometimes seems to jump from 1st to 3rd when driving off

67- OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction

Could you confirm if these are correct, and suggest what to do?

Thanks, Ian

Yes these are the codes, I would go over all the connections to the trans. first.

If'short' or 'open' might be just corroded or bad connections or damaged wiring.

After that it's looking at sticking or faulty solenoids etc.

As an aside are you sure the trans fluid is at the correct level?

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Yes these are the codes, I would go over all the connections to the trans. first.

If'short' or 'open' might be just corroded or bad connections or damaged wiring.

After that it's looking at sticking or faulty solenoids etc.

As an aside are you sure the trans fluid is at the correct level?

Thanks for the confirmation, I will look for connectors to reseat. I did wonder about the trans fluid, it is perhaps a bit high, more pale yellow than red, doesn't smell burnt

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Code 67 always seems to come up when there is a solenoid problem, you can buy the solenoid kits from the USA but there was a post somewhere recently where the guy had stripped down the defective solenoid as it was sticking intermittently.It was all gummed up so he cleaned it with a solvent and then relubricated it with ATF before reassembly and refitting and it has been fine since.

Solenoids are simple devices consisting of a coil of wire which can go either short circuit ( unusual) or open circuit (winding broken) the mechanical part inside the coil is the plunger which depending on whether the solenoid is powered or not determines whether the plunger is fully in or fully out therefore along with valves controlling the ATF flow in the transmission and therefore the gear changes.The only other part is a normally a spring which pushes the solenoid back to its off state.

There are some useful picture tutorials around for the solenoids

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/576689-help-help-transmission-codes-sho-wants-to-charge-me-over-800-a.html

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Code 67 always seems to come up when there is a solenoid problem, you can buy the solenoid kits from the USA but there was a post somewhere recently where the guy had stripped down the defective solenoid as it was sticking intermittently.It was all gummed up so he cleaned it with a solvent and then relubricated it with ATF before reassembly and refitting and it has been fine since.

Solenoids are simple devices consisting of a coil of wire which can go either short circuit ( unusual) or open circuit (winding broken) the mechanical part inside the coil is the plunger which depending on whether the solenoid is powered or not determines whether the plunger is fully in or fully out therefore along with valves controlling the ATF flow in the transmission and therefore the gear changes.The only other part is a normally a spring which pushes the solenoid back to its off state.

There are some useful picture tutorials around for the solenoids

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/576689-help-help-transmission-codes-sho-wants-to-charge-me-over-800-a.html

Yes, agreed, well worth a try if the wiring is all good

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Found this on a search

http://www.pirate4x4...ad.php?t=587521

and this link from the above link may be useful on diagnosis

http://personal.utul.../45diagnosi.pdf

Thanks for 2 great links, I will have a good read through. I suspect I have a sticky No2 solenoid, but I guess it could just as easily be a bad connection, need to get underneath with some WD40 and have a poke about

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