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Marko@speedview Displays


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Afternoon all,

I'm Marko from a new company - SpeedView Head up Displays - and I'm on the LOC to pick your technical gurus' brains and do a deal in exchange (see the technical sections) but to show that I bleed EP90 when cut have a few shots of my toys:

MX5 (sensible daily)

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img_7314.jpg<<<spot the gadget

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MXJ8 (Jaguar X308 Phaeton; 4 litres; 4 doors; no roof; 200 kg of additional steelwork to keep it together; still needs hitting with some 18s and the lowering stick...) We *almost* bought an LS400 but the lines didn't work quite so well topless (bit of a high shoulderline and fat bum)

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Land-Rover ("twinky" as its known; Rover 220 Coupe Turbo engine with the boost set to 'many')

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If you'd like to know who on earth would do such a thing, or more about the company, click here... :D

http://www.speedview.co/about

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Some bizarre contraptions for sure!

I posted before on here re: HUD's. I was converted when I saw one in action on an M5, but never found an aftermarket one that really hit the mark. Will be interesting to see things progress (I see the one in the mx5 pics above)

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Sorry, slow typist! I'm starting with IS, GS, and LS. (two volunteers for each model, and each generation/time they changed the interior or wiring)

(The less common models to follow, just don't want to spread the product support to thin at first)

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Sorry, slow typist! I'm starting with IS, GS, and LS. (two volunteers for each model, and each generation/time they changed the interior or wiring)

(The less common models to follow, just don't want to spread the product support to thin at first)

Sorry, I meant i posted a while ago on LOC regarding HUD's, not specifically to your posts. Although I did jump the gun in the IS section... oops!

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Afternoon all,

I'm Marko from a new company - SpeedView Head up Displays

- and I'm on the LOC to pick your technical gurus' brains and do a deal in

exchange (see the technical sections) but to show that I bleed EP90 when cut

have a few shots of my toys:

spot the gadget

Interesting site Marko, and a lot of work in those toys, but just one question....what on earth is this, and what's it doing? Looks like some kind of electroplating/galvanising set up.

img7723h.jpg

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Aha! This is a contraption designed to explode your shed.

Its called "electrocleaning" and is used to remove paint, grease, muck, and rust from iron/steel parts.

Take a bucket of water, add washing soda. (a salt, to make it conductive) Put an electrode in there (stainless works well), and dip your part in. Take a DC power supply, connect the electrode to +, and the part to -. It'll split the water molecules, creating oxygen bubbles on the electrode and hydrogen on the part. The bubbles are created at the surface of the metal, and as they form/pop/move away, they lift the rust/grease/paint away. Leave it in overnight, and jetwash it in the morning, and you're left with a much cleaner, rust-free part that needs very little work for painting. (quick wire brush and scrub with hot soapy water)

eg - before and after of that part

img_7725.jpg

img_7727.jpg

The welder is a transformer, and creates low voltage AC. Inside the tupperware box is the rectifier pack from an alternator. The "heater" is used on cold blow mode to keep the welder cool when running continuously! Around the inside of the bin there's a sheet of stainless.

You can use a 12V Battery and a box for the MX5, but Jaguar rear suspension is quite chunky!

Ok, and the blowing up the shed bit? Remember school chemistry? No? Ok - this is oxygne and hydrogen:

The foamy scum on the top of that bin is the perfect mix of oxygen/hydrogen to explode. Pop into the shed for a quick ciggy and you WILL blow all the windows out. Don't mess with it before you've read up on your O-Levels again and familiarised yourself with what can/will happen.

I first read about it being used to restore cannons found under the ocean, and figured it would be handy for de-rusting that Land-Rover. It works even better if you follow up with a phosphoric acid dip. (milkstone remover from a farmer's merchant) but again, don't mess with acid unless you know what you're doing. What they sell at the farmer's merchants is properly dangerous, and needs to be diluted 1:4 (acid to water, slwoly, and wearing glvoes/goggles - never put water in the acid).

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Sorry, slow typist! I'm starting with IS, GS, and LS. (two volunteers for each model, and each generation/time they changed the interior or wiring)

(The less common models to follow, just don't want to spread the product support to thin at first)

I have a 99 is200.

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Aha! This is a contraption designed to explode your shed.

Its called "electrocleaning" and is used to remove paint, grease, muck, and rust from iron/steel parts.

Take a bucket of water, add washing soda. (a salt, to make it conductive) Put an electrode in there (stainless works well), and dip your part in. Take a DC power supply, connect the electrode to +, and the part to -. It'll split the water molecules, creating oxygen bubbles on the electrode and hydrogen on the part. The bubbles are created at the surface of the metal, and as they form/pop/move away, they lift the rust/grease/paint away. Leave it in overnight, and jetwash it in the morning, and you're left with a much cleaner, rust-free part that needs very little work for painting. (quick wire brush and scrub with hot soapy water)

The welder is a transformer, and creates low voltage AC. Inside the tupperware box is the rectifier pack from an alternator. The "heater" is used on cold blow mode to keep the welder cool when running continuously! Around the inside of the bin there's a sheet of stainless.

You can use a 12V battery and a box for the MX5, but Jaguar rear suspension is quite chunky!

t read about it being used to restore cannons found under the ocean, and figured it would be handy for de-rusting that Land-Rover. It works even better if you follow up with a phosphoric acid dip. (milkstone remover from a farmer's merchant) but again, don't mess with acid unless you know what you're doing. What they sell at the farmer's merchants is properly dangerous, and needs to be diluted 1:4 (acid to water, slwoly, and wearing glvoes/goggles - never put water in the acid).

Seems to work OK, but I'd be wary of using it on any high strength steel parts, especially steel components that are in tensile stress during use (e.g. studs, ht bolting or stub axles and similar with threads for nuts) because of the risk from hydrogen embrittlement. When such parts are electro zinc plated or electro galvanised they are also exposed to surface hydrogen and are heat treated afterwards to bake it out, but even then there's no guarantee that all the hydrogen is removed. The risk is called HIC (hydrogen induced cracking) caused when the hydrogen diffuses into the metal and re-combines in minuscule voids of the metal matrix.

HIC can occur over a period of time, especially in tensile stressed components so please be aware of the risk.

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Your HUDs look pretty damn good...im sure a couple of the IS owners will be interested for sure...i am one of them...but not that handy with electricals yet :whistling: and that electro cleaning is amazing! thought that was only possible if you go to a professional/big set up kind of place. (not saying your not professional at all, u no what i mean.haha)

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Oil industry? Metals treatment?

Yep, good call on HIC. Fine on the dirty lumps of pig iron but strictly I probably shouldn't have used it on those through-bolts. No using it on any bearing surfaces either!

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Oil industry? Metals treatment?

Yep, good call on HIC. Fine on the dirty lumps of pig iron but strictly I probably shouldn't have used it on those through-bolts. No using it on any bearing surfaces either!

Correct on your first guess, oil industry, subsea specialist. HIC has given me more than my fair share of problems, too numerous to mention both from Cathodic Protection and metals treatment :lol: :o

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