Kev B

Lexus Is Diesel Particulate Filter Dpf Problem / Solution

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Hello Normski2 and thank you very much for the reply.

As i mentioned the guy in Birmingham cleaned my EGR valve thoroughly. It was super dirty. His idea is that is not working properly even after the cleaning. He says the gaps that I have in 2000 to 3500 rpm are because the egr is staying open or closed.

If I will trust him, I need to change it. I would expect a cost of around 300 pounds to be honest. Now the question is, do I change it myself to save the fitting money or needs re learning and upadte of the ECU? The Birmingham guy said that even if you buy a new one you need re learning of your ECU.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance

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If it was me I'd do it myself as it is very easy to do. Just ensure you get the part numbers from the existing one you have.

Not sure about the necessity of ECU update as such, but if the change requires the car system to 'relearn' your driving characteristics then that will be achieved, i think, over 500 miles or so.

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Mine has a small gap but since being machine cleaned it is working reasonably well and getting good miles to a gallon(39) and pick up speed has greatly improved so leaving it till I notice a change

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Thank you guys for your replys. I will ask Lexus to see how much it will cost me to buy a new one. If I trust the guy in Birmingham, which I should cause in the end of the day he solved my problem, the EGR does not respont as it should so even after cleaning I need to change it.

I will keep you updated when I will change it.

Thanks again

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Just found out the prices for the EGR valve from Lexus Milton Keynes. Fitted is 453 pounds, cost of the part 333 pounds.

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Morning everyone.

My problems seems to continue. Although the car, as mentioned in driving much better than before, the milage has dropped dramatically. I though that cleaning the DPF will increase the milage but it seems that it made it much worse. Could this be connected with the EGR not working properly?

Thanks in advance

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Thank you very much Normski2 for all your help and replies.

Just ordered an EGR valve (used) and I will fit in on Tuesday.

Will keep you updated.

Thanks again

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It's pretty simple to fit....probably take an hour for first time. Remember, firstly, to disconnect the electrical plug in connector on the top.

When it arrives take a good look at it to see its functioning (on the spring) properly and that its clean. Take the back end off too and check there is no corrosion in there.

When the old one is off take a look at the port it feeds into underneath. Make sure its all nice and clean. You can scratch off any crud with a flat blade screwdriver and suck it up with a hoover as you go. Those vids on Youtube will enlighten you to what I am referring to.

If you have not got one, see if you can borrow a 'short reach' socket extension for getting at the bolts at the back of the engine block. These hold the silver flexi type metal pipe that feeds down onto the top of the EGR. You'll need to lift this up to lift the EGR up over the studs.

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Don't know how true this is, but I was told you can usually regenerate the DPF by running the car at highish revs for a lengthy time. Apparently heats the filter to almost red hot and burns off everything.. and its all hunky dory again!

Any one else heard of this being done?

One thing I would urge you to do is clean the EGR valve every 5000 miles or so if you regularly do short journeys. Did mine on Fri last..took 30 mins and round town mpg is 42 at present. You might care to explore the use of BG244 and AR6200 fuel additive. My engine sounds much better after using this and mpg has gone up a bit too.

Normski2,

Is this relatively easy to do? Always been worried about the DPF problem on most common diesels and the EGR, however i travel 110 miles a day for work and I'd say 70% of it is motorway. My car is 2010 and currently is on 37,500 miles, will be getting a service in 1000 miles. Just wondering if I would have to do this also and so often? I don't mind doing it just want to be sure :)

With all the miles i do and mostly motorway I'm hoping my DPF should stay fairly clean? If it does end up basically getting 90% clogged up I think the best thing to do would be rip it out?!

Thanks

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As you can no doubt see...my 220d has been replaced by the 250auto now. However, I recall most things associated with my ownership of the 220d.

You are doing good miles each day so it is highly likely your DPF will be in pretty good shape. The big thing you can do however is keep a close eye on the EGR valve. You don't have to be an engineer to be able to take it apart and clean it. There are many video links on this forum to show you how to do it. I used to check mine every 8-10,000 miles. I also used 5ml of AR6200 fuel additive at each 50ltr fill up. The EGR was noticeably cleaner after using this...so it does indeed seem to promote a cleaner burn of the fuel.

I would not go ripping the DPF out, you will fail the mot test. There are companies that will flush through the DPF to initiate a chemical cleaning of the DPF.

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Yeah I understand that thanks! Yeah I will have a look at it once it's been serviced so if I do need to clean it then it's been serviced etc. that's good news then I hope it is in good shape! Oh right ok Ive never heard of that stuff, I run my car on v power diesel anyway for peace of mind but I will have a look at this stuff too, where's the best place to get it from? Thanks for your help

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I would not go ripping the DPF out, you will fail the mot test. There are companies that will flush through the DPF to initiate a chemical

cleaning of the DPF.

My vehicle recently went in for a essential care minor service with lexus and as i was heading home about 10 mintues into my journey the dreaded VSC/Engine managment light came up. I plugged my Bluetooth adapter to check what the code was and it was the dread P2002 rather then resetting it, i drove back to the dealers and told them the dashboard is all lit up. After waiting for an hour i was told they have regen the dpf (At no cost to me ) and i should drive it at high rev's on my way back home. My vehicle has done 95k and i have never driven in town centres all motorway mileage. I do have the toyota software but never got it to force regenerate not sure what conditions have to be met if anyone knows they can pm please for my future reference. Anyhow I was thinking of having my dpf removed by PandPauto sometimes next year. I was under the impression with the emulator installed and dpf internal's gutted out, leaving the actual dpf still in place, the MOT can be passed. I know VOSA state that a dpf has to be in place and the MOT guy has to do a visual check but these vehicle have under body protection so its impossible for the MOT guy to do a visual check on the dpf even if he does he can not know the internals have be gutted. Would be nice to hear from people who have done this and passed the MOT.

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Yeah I was gonna get the internals removed I also believe that it can be done and MOT passed that's what I meant. I don't know anyone who's done it. Just out of interest what price were you quoted for this? I was told its around £5-600?

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Yeah I was gonna get the internals removed I also believe that it can be done and MOT passed that's what I meant. I don't know anyone who's done it. Just out of interest what price were you quoted for this? I was told its around £5-600?

£500 all inclusive i was quoted. Also I would've loved to bypass the egr, it's simple modification Only problem is got 2 years lexus warranty.

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its incorrect to assume that motorway miles mean the dpf should be clean - quite wrong. The engine is programmed to "regen" the dpf under certain condutions, notably after "a bit of a mild caning". You need to sustain around 3000 rpm for fifteen mins or so. toodling aling the M1 at 80 normally means 2000 rpm in top - simply not high enough to force a regen. Cruise at 80 in fourth and toure getting there. Also if you find yoyrself in limp home mode the engine may protect itself by refusing to sustain the rpm needed.

As i stated several posts ago get the dpf taken off and physically cleaned.£100 at carnetix in Melton Mowbray. Anyone who wants to blow half a grand ripping the exhaust system apart is welcome to waste their money. I had mine jetwashed 15k ago and no probe since. Also don't forget we're now in winter diesel season so expect a sizeable mpg drop anyway.

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Ahh ok that's interesting, well it would be a hell of a lot easier without a dpf there in the first place! So how often are you supposed to do a 'forced regen?' And also how often would you need to take it off and get it cleaned?

Thanks for your help

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As i stated several posts ago get the dpf taken off and physically cleaned.£100 at carnetix in Melton Mowbray. Anyone who wants to blow half a grand ripping the exhaust system apart is welcome to waste their money. I had mine jetwashed 15k ago and no probe since

I hear you m8 but spending £500 is to forget about the problem once and for all rather then servicing the dpf or adding dpf additives to the fuel every few thousand miles which aren't cheap.The cost eventually add's up in the end. So on those basis i wanted it removed.One less worry with the car. just my 2p.

Just out of curiosity what exactly did carnetix do to the dpf apart from jetwash? did they add any dpf chemicals to loosen the soot? I'm not far from Melton Mowbray but i need to be won over to go down this route ;)

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I guess I'm with you too man, I'd rather rip it out forget about it and gain the extra 80hp or so with a remap haha but I will just do that when it gets blocked or something, I wanna try and look after it the best I can to be honest

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Regens are supposed to happen as part of normal driving. The problem is "normal driving" doesn't usually involve sustained periods at 3000rpm in a 220d. I do a forced regen at the start of each month (easier to remember) I set the cruise at 80 in fourth for 20 mins that's all.

Carnetix simply jetwash the dpf, nothing else. The dpf is a physical filter not a chemical one like a cat. Dpfs need extra heat to clear them through hence the regen thing. Banging them into a kiln is another option I've heard. I don't bother with any additives.

The problem with dpf removal is the risk of getting caught at mot time. Your car WILL NOT pass the mot if/when the garage susses and then you're left with the bill for a new dpf on top of the £500 plus whatever charges you need to pay to get the ecu resorted. Your choice, I guess. As I said, 15k on and I'm having no issues and it cost me £100....... When will it need to be redone? Ain't got a clue.........

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mrr1, you are wrong.

The conditions for regeneration are: water temp over 60deg and revs 1.150-2750.

Stop saying that you need 3.000 rpm, it is completely wrong. You don't know what you are talking about.

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mrr1, you are wrong.

Stop saying that you need 3.000 rpm, it is completely wrong. You don't know what you are talking about.

Nice attitude. Please accept my deepest most humble apologies for daring to repeat what I've been told by others.....

Obviously from this point on I will pass any of my opinions to you first for prior approval.

By the way, that was a great impression you did there of an eight year old arguing with a sibling..

Let me guess, you're either short bald and not getting enough or English is your second language?

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Unfortunately nowadays it is quite usual, that people (like you) post their thoughts as facts - without an argument. It is very dumb to accept everything said on the Internet as a true.

And it is common, that these people start to kick around and insult others, instead of finding arguments, or accepting that they are wrong. As we can see above.


To the topic: for correct and fast regeneration it is ideal to keep constant revs. 2.000rpm is enough. Accelerating and decelerating makes the regeneration longer, because the temperature goes up and down.

The worst is city driving - it is very hard to keep the temperature up.

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