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1Jz-Gte Conversion, Jzx100 Diff Convert Questions, Altezza Rs200


zimnismoboy34
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Hello Fellow forum users, i am calling for some help, i understand so far the conversion process for the altezza, and am heading down the road to getting odds and ends.

So far the list is as follows.

Jzx100 half cut .

Containing

Ecu, wiring and sensors, engine and gearbox (R154) as well as prop and cross member, and clutch bits.

I am also wanting to convert the Diff, now i am going to get a LSD unit from the chaser and wanted to know the following questions ?

If i get the complete diff with output flanges will they bolt onto my altezza Side shafts ?

If not will i need to change the side shafts on the altezza ?

And if so do i need to change the hubs also ?

I have been looking and havent seen much info on this type of conversion .

All i know is the diff i have it open and a peice of crap for drifting and power, so i want to change it and better still it might be better to change the complete unit including the housing ?

But i have seen and heard that the housing is the same as the altezza so this should work out .

Now if i change the rear diff including the crown wheel and pinion from the normal 41.11 ratio to the one from the chaser will the speedo read correctly ?

And eventually when i convert to the R154 Box and JZ engine will the speedo still read correctly ?

Hope some one can shed some info i have seen there are loads of people doing the conversion, but want the nice big 8" crown wheel as apposed to the F series diff in the altezza, i would love to have a G series crownwheel and pinion .

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Can't offer any advice, sorry - but I'm interested to follow your install on this, so please document it! The 1JZ-GTE VVTi engine seems like an awesome engine to transplant into an IS/Altezza, and is probably the engine I'd use if I had the time, space and (most importantly) the money to commit to it - 280bhp and 280lb/ft with the single turbo VVTi engine, and makes 50% of it's torque down the low end of the rev range!

I reckon that with a decent intake and worked exhaust, and run a tiny touch more boost, I reckon you're easily knocking on the door of 300hp

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Like matt im not much use in this department but if you search for SPARKYSTAV a member on this forum im sure he will be able to help you immensley. He has a 1ggte in his IS. Good luck with it all.

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sounds like a big conversion project you taking on there might cost you some ££$$ but would be worth every penny.. would be nice to see pics of the car once its completed. but why dont you save your self the time, hassle and start with this as a platform

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201232481104822/sort/default/usedcars/engine-size-cars/2l_to_2-5l/body-type/saloon/price-from/2000/fuel-type/petrol/transmission/manual/model/mazda6/make/mazda/onesearchad/used/onesearchad/nearlynew/onesearchad/new/page/1/postcode/lu63hp/radius/200?logcode=p

for a start insurance companies dont know a lot about it so its not expensive to insure as an EVO or Subaru STI. 260bhp, 380NM (280 LB ft) of torque at a low 3000rpm , turbo intercooler, direct ingection, direct ignition, variable valve timing, 4 wheel drive machine. a few mods on this with high octane fuel will inject another 40+ BHP to this engine taking it to 300+ BHP and still returns 28mpg like an IS200 when driven sensibly.

now thats what i call a sleeper :driving: . when am ready to go Turbo and manual car again this will be top on my list..

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Hello All and thanks for the many responses, the conversion isnt too bad once you think about it, and lets face it any conversion is a hand stand, but this one is a breeze compared to others, the only scarey part is got to be the wiring and getting the Is200 Dash to work with the 1jz engine, in the worst case we leave the is200 ecu and feed it with signals from the sensors on the 1jz engine .

Mounts are a breeze knowing that the Is300 mounts work ..!!!!

Radiator is also easy to do !!!

And the front mount just needsa little patience.

So i still need my answer on those rear side shafts, will the output flange of the JZX100 diff work on the Altezza drive shafts ?

Will i break the drive shafts if it does work ?

I will be documenting this as much as possible and will offer as much advice once its all done .

I know there are guys on here that have done the convertion so waiting to hear on their thoughts.

I also would like to Add im In south Africa, insurance is a easy and not as hard over seas UK etc.

With regards to the last post the Mazda is a good car a sleeper im not sure about, but to be honest mazdas have never been on the top of my list .

Never the less im not sure how well they handle and how power they can take ?

But in the search of a nice 4 door rwd driven toy, i recon this is got to be the best route, cheap, and nice the is200 is a well looking car and handles well .....

Please help a fellow enthusiast out will be looking for some advice as i have never done this before and based on what i can see there are loads of others wanting to know how its done in here .!!! :)

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With regards to the last post the Mazda is a good car a sleeper im not sure about, but to be honest mazdas have never been on the top of my list .

Never the less im not sure how well they handle and how power they can take ?

Like they say power is not everything if its not being channelled to the wheels effectively. It depends on how far you want to go tuning wise i.e. 400 - 500+ bhp. but i my self dont have the work space and time for a full blown engine swap and mechanical conversions hence i will start with something which already packs the punch from factory and give it some light tuning. 300 - 320 bhp is all one needs in a car to go from 0-62 in less than 6 seconds and do 165mph if not restricted. and I am sure the Mazda engine can handle that easily.. its high performance Japanese car for a start so it definatley wont handle like a dog and the only Subaru's Imprezas quicker than it is the STI and RB320. If you are building for drag racing then yes 1JZ can handle more power but for a track car its more about handling and reasonable 300bhp channeled to all 4 wheels or the rear wheels.

a low powered car with a good driver, good balance and brakes can really do wonders round a track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enP4TzvCnEM&feature=related

saying that i would love to boost my 2JZ too ;) but someone on here might be able to point you to the right direction with regards to your project. Good luck mate

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With regards to the last post the Mazda is a good car a sleeper im not sure about, but to be honest mazdas have never been on the top of my list .

Never the less im not sure how well they handle and how power they can take ?

Like they say power is not everything if its not being channelled to the wheels effectively. It depends on how far you want to go tuning wise i.e. 400 - 500+ bhp. but i my self dont have the work space and time for a full blown engine swap and mechanical conversions hence i will start with something which already packs the punch from factory and give it some light tuning. 300 - 320 bhp is all one needs in a car to go from 0-62 in less than 6 seconds and do 165mph if not restricted. and I am sure the Mazda engine can handle that easily.. its high performance Japanese car for a start so it definatley wont handle like a dog and the only Subaru's Imprezas quicker than it is the STI and RB320. If you are building for drag racing then yes 1JZ can handle more power but for a track car its more about handling and reasonable 300bhp channeled to all 4 wheels or the rear wheels.

a low powered car with a good driver, good balance and brakes can really do wonders round a track.

saying that i would love to boost my 2JZ too ;) but someone on here might be able to point you to the right direction with regards to your project. Good luck mate

That is all well and good - but if the OP, like myself and others, really likes their own car, but just wants some more performance, selling it and buying a Mazda isn't the answer.

The Mazda is a nice car, but it's not really what I want. I like my IS - but I'd like a bit more performance out of it. Not 400, 500, 600bhp, not a track weapon - just some extra power and torque, with a nice strong, smooth power delivery, that pulls from the bottom of the rev range right to the redline.

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With regards to the last post the Mazda is a good car a sleeper im not sure about, but to be honest mazdas have never been on the top of my list .

Never the less im not sure how well they handle and how power they can take ?

Like they say power is not everything if its not being channelled to the wheels effectively. It depends on how far you want to go tuning wise i.e. 400 - 500+ bhp. but i my self dont have the work space and time for a full blown engine swap and mechanical conversions hence i will start with something which already packs the punch from factory and give it some light tuning. 300 - 320 bhp is all one needs in a car to go from 0-62 in less than 6 seconds and do 165mph if not restricted. and I am sure the Mazda engine can handle that easily.. its high performance Japanese car for a start so it definatley wont handle like a dog and the only Subaru's Imprezas quicker than it is the STI and RB320. If you are building for drag racing then yes 1JZ can handle more power but for a track car its more about handling and reasonable 300bhp channeled to all 4 wheels or the rear wheels.

a low powered car with a good driver, good balance and brakes can really do wonders round a track.

saying that i would love to boost my 2JZ too ;) but someone on here might be able to point you to the right direction with regards to your project. Good luck mate

That is all well and good - but if the OP, like myself and others, really likes their own car, but just wants some more performance, selling it and buying a Mazda isn't the answer.

The Mazda is a nice car, but it's not really what I want. I like my IS - but I'd like a bit more performance out of it. Not 400, 500, 600bhp, not a track weapon - just some extra power and torque, with a nice strong, smooth power delivery, that pulls from the bottom of the rev range right to the redline.

I do agree with you mate thats why i drive an IS myself with the 2JZ block under the hood waiting to be unleashed with some boost... was only suggesting another motor as it sounds like the OP was taking on a huge project but if he knows what hes doing will definatley be a breeze to do the conversions!!

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Shame the IS300 over here didn't get the same 2JZ-GE that the Altezza Gita had in Japan; 245bhp as standard

these engines in stock form are quite powerful even without aid of a turbo or super charger.. 1G-FE in the Japan spec IS200 makes 160bhp from the same 2litre the 2JZ in IS300 was inherently detuned due to EU laws to do with exhaust emissions and and the same engine in the GS300 makes almost 220bhp with almost 300NM(220 lb ft) with no turbo this is quite impressive for an engine built in the very early 90's . if the IS300 had a double exhaust like the GS300 it would have made the same power and torque figures as the GS...

or was it a way of Lexus making the GS300 a bit superior over the IS300??

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More likely the latter I'd suspect. Japan nearly alway keep the best spec for themselves, hence why their Altezza Gita makes 245bhp. 160bhp from the 1G-FE over the "stock" 153 isn't really anything to be fair - 7hp is negligible at best. And to be fair, 220hp in a car as big and as heavy as the GS isn't a huge amount either. My opinion is the 200 should have been around 185, and the 300 should have been 220-225hp as standard

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alright in all fairness i have a nissan skyline gtr34 and its a lovely car and drives well, but we all know the sleeper look just cuts it and simply put it can be made to have an almost limitless amount of fun, all well have four wheel drive and four wheel steering, like on the gtr34 i have, but i want a car that isnt a supra, but drives like one, i want a car that has four doors and four seats that can cart a family around, and want to be able to drag and drift it too, the altezza has nice power with the fly by wire throttle of the 3s-ge motor, i hate the fly by wire and if i wasnt converting i would be looking at taking it out by putting a bush on the stepper motor side and making the geartooth drive move with the tps sensor for the traction control unit, but thats anothe project for another day, i had a 86 i loved it as old and as harsh as it was, its a drivers car the steering feed back is amazing and the car handles so well its a brilliant peice of machinery, i wish i had it still its a drivers car and i enjoyed it .

The altezza on the other hand well its more refined smoother and drives like a real gentlemans car, but there are some downfalls, the lazy response on the throttle does my nut in and with the 1jz i am going to work around this and give it some instant throttle response like it should be . i have managed to find a diff from a soarer and will try the side shafts from there and see if they bolt onto my flanges off the diff, hoping they do as it will mean less to be imported and less work in the long run. i dont want the mazda sadly as thats what i have the gtr34 for, but when it comes to ultimate fun, i want an altezza it looks nice drives well and handles well too and just screams for more power. Lates face it though the ae86 has a 130 Bhp engine and it weighs in at about 950kgs and the altezza has a 210 bhp motor and weighs in at 1360 kgs so id say they are around the same level of power to weight, which makes them nice neutral handling machines and yes a suspension upgrade and rubber bush upgrade will help handling, some struts upper and lower will improve chassis stiffness and with some weight reduction you will have a strong track machine .

I am some what of a mechanic i am a passionate one too and i have rebuilt my gtr34 engine, and my 86 engine, never dabbled too much into the ecu and wiring world, but i will conquer it i hope with the help of fellow enthusiasts who have managed to do what i want to do !!! will do a massive write up and will be looking for some input from people as to which way to go how to make it neat and make it worth while as a conversion .

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You can fit a lsd into the standard altezza diff housing, and the std diff will hold the power i have been running 550hp through a std is200 diff since 2004, the is200 output shafts are 4 bolt and they have had no problems, the altezza shafts are 6 bolt so are inherintly stronger,

if you was to change the crown and pinion the altezza gearbox would read the same speed as the speed sensor is located in the gearbox, however the road speed would be out slightly, i can assure you there is no need to change the final gearing, your issue afterwards will be calibrating the road speed sensor, if its possible to fit the altezza one then that is the best option and it should be correct

my car was the first to have the 2jz gte conversion done in Europe

the mechanicals of this conversion are simple, in relation to the electronics

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You can fit a lsd into the standard altezza diff housing, and the std diff will hold the power i have been running 550hp through a std is200 diff since 2004, the is200 output shafts are 4 bolt and they have had no problems, the altezza shafts are 6 bolt so are inherintly stronger

OMG 550hp chanelling through a standard IS200 diff :msn-oh: !! talk of Toyota over engineering a car and chucking 150hp engine under the hood no wonder most IS200 drivers feel the car can take more power and 150hp was not enough to start with...

hey Mat i want to see some videos of your 2JZ-GTE taking on M5's and RS6's in the IS or maybe an LFA round a track..

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Hello Monster-Mart and thankyou for the valuable input, its made my day, but i think im going to go with the Chaser Jzx100 diff, reason being is i have been offered a car that was wrecked and i can use the drive train and engine from it hence the reason i was asking about the side shafts, sadly i dont know if the side shafts will work from the altezza onto the Jzx100 diff,

I have made a list of diff part numbers for various crownwheel and pinions ,

Diffs codes

Soarer Jzz30 Atm

41201-80029 FINAL GEAR RATIO=47:12=3.917

Soarer Manual 5spd Jzz30

41201-80027 FINAL GEAR RATIO=49:12=4.083

Altezza ratio manual 6spd

41201-80054 FINAL GEAR RATIO=41:10=4.100

is300 ATM 2jz-ge

41201-80052 FINAL GEAR RATIO=43:11=3.909

Chaser manual

41201-80050 FINAL GEAR RATIO=41:11=3.727

 

Chaser Atm

41201-80052 FINAL GEAR RATIO=43:11=3.909

And as we can all see each are different inherently from the other, so that means making sure i get some good ratios, the car im breaking has a lsd diff already ,but its in Japan. So i need to make sure im doing this the right way, and making sure the speedo reads correctly is my biggest concern cause if the car isnt reading correct the Cops will be all over me lol.

i guess i could always get the front end first and worry about the back later in saying that ?

Ps i would love to see some pics of you car and the conversion .

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right after a few friends have pushed me and asked why am i not converting to a 2jz-gte i decided to investigate the conversion process of a is300 .

And well its simply a hand stand and looks more complicated then a simple 1jz-gte install.

so im sticking with the 1jz conversion and will start saving so we can get the necessary parts .

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  • 2 weeks later...

oh yeah. I agree with monster mat. the stock torsen can handle the power with the usual maintenace. and if you choose to use the chaser diff, you have some options, just drop in the diff and use your output shafts, or just swap the internals with yours, swaping the final drive gearing if you want, (manual chasers are 3.9 autos are 4.1 i think) it will give u the opportunity to change the diff seals if yours developed a leak like mine did.

the jzx90, jzx100/110 and gxe10/sxe10 share lots of suspension parts, hence the "X" chassis designation.

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  • 7 years later...

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