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Just keep in mind the O/D light is not related to the IAT/MAF issues. It indicates transmission faults. The check engine light is the one relating to the codes you are reading.

You need to clear the codes to reset them, so I would pull the ecu fuse(s) for a a couple of hours and then reconnect. It should (fingers crossed) at least clear the TPS error permanently. It may clear others as well.

The bulb failure lamp should work by

A ) if it comes on when the side or headlights are switched on it is a rear tail light.

B ) If it only comes on once the brake pedal is pressed, it is a brake lamp.

If they are defiantely all ok (including the high level brake light if your car has it), then I would think one of the bulbs is not in great shape and may be worth swapping them out for new bulbs anyway.

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Hi Tiger,

What would I do without you? you are the only one replying to this topic, and with very pin pointed advices. Thank you.

Where is everyone else? Its really odd. There are alot of views, but no replies?? On the MB forum there are many replies from many people, they can be right, they can be wrong, but this is not a one to one discusson. No offence to Steve 2006 who also replied. I myself understanding the E300TD and was helping as much as I could, as others helped me, but here, nada?

This lack of replies trully amaze me. Where/ when are the Lexus owners helping each other?

Anyway, this needed to be said and I won't say it again.

Now about the fuses for the ECU, how about I disconnect the Battery as I thought the EFI will be the same if disconnected?

If I go for the Battery might be better? Would that no ttrigger the alarm tho? If I do that now, unplug the Battery, I don't want to wake up the whole neighborhood in the middle of the night as the alarm Battery goes flat and then the alarm goes off...

The light warning come on as soon as I switch the lights on, but all bulbs are working?

By the way, how do you change the light bulbs? Do I need to unscrew the whole tailgate out the car to access them?

Thank you again :)

Olivier

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I think the number of active particiapants in the thread is due to a few things IMO.

  1. MB's are very common, so a lot of owners to pick from.
  2. In general (yours being an exception in the main), Lexus are very reliable, much more so than MB. Far fewer Lexus owners looking for help to find the forums.
  3. Of the relative few Lexus about, even less of those are GS's. They are fairly rare beasts.

Yup, you have to undo the nuts behind the trim either side of the boot opening and unbolt the clusters. A bit of a PITA, but the only way.

You can disconnect the Battery instead. Just make sure no security code is set on the stereo. If, when you switch the stereo on the word "SEC" is displayed momentarily (can't remember which one of the two LCD panels it shows on), then a code is set. It will activate if the Battery is disconnected and won't work until the code is entered. As the code is set by the user when it is enabled, you need to know it. If "SEC" doesn't show momentarily, then there is nothing to worry about and you can go ahead with a disconnect. As far as I remember, no Battery backup for the alarm. Once it is disconnected, it can't sounds the alarm. I don't recall mine going of on the reconnect, but your call with that one. You could disconnect tonight, reconnect in the morning.

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Interessting about Lexus being more reliable. More then MB..Tut tut ... Just kidding ;)

Indeed the MB have a few bothers, but once you know them, that are "OK" to fix. cheap and easy. Thre problem is the rust. Its a nighmare on the mb. Kill the cars.

I am amazed with the Lexus boby and rust free issues since she's a 1993. Woaow!

I had 2 MB . one 1996, the other 2000, they both had rust failure, body panels, brakes pipes, chassis, sub-frames and all... The Lexus depsite been a lot older is still solid. Really solid! The bother I think is the guy let it go, the previous owner, and try to cut some corners while it was easier to do it properly and cheaper at the end. It still run very well now tho. Just need a MAF and I think she's a gem :) Oh, and regass the Aircon :).

A wee more about me:

You can find me there under olivier

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/

or there under olivier a

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/

or the veg forum under olivier

http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/

I got few more too but no ned to put them all .

Why I got into the lexus as my car died:

http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=35234#pid399259

Thank you again Tiger :)

I let you know what is happening next :)

my wee one made an x on her lexus arm rest side tho, then I might have to keep it as it mean I have no choice any longer...

All the best.

Olivier :)

...

Thank you :)

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OK. Battery disconnected for a while, went for a drive, the O/D blining still here.

Did the paperclip test now, the engine light keep on flashing non stop, the O?D give me a code 61, from what I read its

61 - No. 2 speed sensor signal malfunction

from http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Any idea how to fix ths?

And is the engine light flashing all the time mean its all OK or its now worse???

Cheers :)

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It does. :)

But where is the VSS2?

This is the bugger one.

A picture would be great, or details on where it is???

Apparently it might be a cut/ short circuit wire... But I have no clue on where/ what to look ???

The diagram doesn't relly tell me anything at all...

And this is the reason why the previous owner put a black tape on top of the light...For a wrong signal...

Don't you hate those people???

Anyone there on the where it is, what to look for etc...?

Thank you :)

I will take some picture of what I did for the AIT too, if this help others.

The Ait wasn't the problem at all me think, but I bypassed it ( increasing the power, maybe) as I didn't know...

I should have start with the "unplugg the battery" and go from there instead of working on stored faults...

Dear dear dear...

Car swiftly enough now tho and a nice grrrr from the engine when reeving ;)

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Just a wee picture of the resistor at the place of the AIT.

This is what they sell you on eBay for 20 quid, the resistor that increase power, its 20 pence at Maplin ;)

I don't remember the resistance but I think it 20ohms.

I need to dig out some MB forum where I previously post it to be sure on the resistance, this is anyone is interested.

I am still wondering how can I look at the sensor, I think it might be the rust on the hubs as they are rigged for the sensor to be able to check the rotation of the wheel and the sensor might not be too happy on the reading at the moment as it take some driving to get the light flashing.

post-45784-0-66240800-1358185478.jpg

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In all honesty, this kind of mod isn't one I would recommend. In reality, if the sensor is "thought" to be suspect by the ecu, it will default an intake temp of 20 degrees. I guess the designers thought this would be a sensible compromise to to allow decent performance of the overall system while it is rectified, not a sonstant on going operating mode. The apparent BHP gains the £20 eBay purchases (as quite rightly pointed out being a 20p resistor) is designed to fool the car into thinking it is colder than it is (some work like this, others work in similar fashion but working more cruedly on engine temp, rather than air temp) and therefore supposedly add more fuel to mix with the colder denser air. Sounds good, and possibly might be, if it wasn't for the fact that the ecu will monitor the lambda sensors and see that there is too much fuel to be burnt properly and adjusts everything to compensate. The net result is no gain, but not because the ecu is running everything optimally, but because it is constantly trying to correct itself. If you end up putting it so far out of its correctable range, and this could then cause other issues, such as premature failure of the cats. With LPG, these inconsistencies could be even more catastrophic. Each to their own in the end.

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Hi Tiger,

Indeed it might not be the best but remember, I was trying to get the code cleared... That was not performance related. I wanted the AIT code out.

It does improve performances on the mb tho, but there is no lamba sensors and they can be de-cat no bother( diesel).

I think I leave it like this for awhile.

I might put back an AIT sensor but to be honest, I like to sort the VSS first, then it'll be a lot better :)

All the best.

Olivier

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OK, today I resolder the AIT, and indeed there is no faults coming up a bout it.

I still have a bother with the SRS light always on.

How can I erase the SRS light? I tried with the wire dance but the SRS light is still on when I start. The O/D only appear after a little while driving. Then I think the SRS light is different then the O?D flashing?

When I go to the engine diagnosis the druise control, the ABS and the SRS light all flashes at different intervals.

Would that be all related to the wheel sensor. I know where they are now, but I don't see where they connect under the hood?

What I am thinking is that:

the riggs on the hub must have gone rusty, making it hard for the sensor to read the speed?

Or I read somewhere its a severed cable.

Or the magnet on the sensor is not too well?

Does anyone knows where are they connected under the hood? I could check for some resistance there and see if its one or 2 sensors that are not too well...

Thank you :)

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I wish I could offer some useful advice but as Tigerfish says, generally they don't go too wrong and most owners on here have very few faults (just look at the things we post).

Flip side is that Tigerfish is giving you great advice and no one is contridicting him.

I could have replied about the bulbs but was too slow.

Good luck with the last few bits

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Cheers RayKhan,

Nearly the re me think, just need to know how to delete the SRS light...

Then the sensors :)

What codes are being flashed on the SRS light?

What codes are being flashed by the cruise control lamp? The cruise control doesn't use any of the abs sensors, for the speed, it uses the speedo sender from the gearbox, so the fault won't be related to the abs lamp.

The ABS codes can be erased by jumpering pins Tc and E1 in the diagnostic connector, then switch ignition on and press and release the brake pedal 8 times within three seconds. Recheck the codes are cleared and then see what new codes are registered after a drive around. What codes are then flashing on the ABS light if any?

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Hi Tiger,

I thought the light were justt flashing... Duh! I didn't do the count on any... Oopss...

I come back to you tomorrow with that.

Those are flashing while jumping E1 and TC.

The SRS light is permanent tho, as soon as I start the engine.

I'll press the pedal too and see what is coming after ;)

Cheers :)

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When you checked the O/D lamp flashes, did you jumper TE1 and E1 (rather than TC and E1 for the ABS and SRS)? If it is the VSS2 code, both VSS2 and VSS1 are located either side of the back end of the gearbox (near the prop). Out of the two, VSS2 is the one nearer the front of the gearbox. I think the cruise control uses VSS1, but if both VSS's fail, the gearbox limits to 1st gear only, so that would tend to suggest that VSS1 is going to be ok and that the cruise issue is not speed sensor related.

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One Victory :)

I finally made it and the SRS light is no longer buggering me. It was not easy as I was grounding it to the Battery then was not aware of what the light was doing, then I got a longer cable to move intot he cabin and the light is now gone... Wohoo!!!

Here is my prevous post. No need to bother with the SRS light anymore, just the VSS. To be honest, its way to cold to go under the old japanese girl...

Hi Tiger,

Yes the O/D flashing was on the E1/ Te1 jumping.

Got code 22 from the SRS light on the E1/TC jumping.

The Cruise and ABS light keep on flashing non stop.

PS:

I did edit this post.

I did the 8 time press the pedal and its all the same.

Just read code 22 is a malfunction on the airbags? But where and can it be erased?

I tried the jump the wires on the negative but nothing had changed?

Back ot do the wire dance , many many times... to no effect :( ( Solved it now )

still have the SRS light on. ( no more ;) )

Any hint on how to delete this light?

Cheers.

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Code 22 on the SRS system means an issue with the warning lamp circuit. Which comes down to bulb (obviously ok if it flashes), wiring harness (to the bulb at least must be OK if it flashes - but could be bad connection elsewhere) and the control unit (called the centre airbag sensor assembly) which is located under the centre console. It probably needs to be cleared 1st just to make sure it isn't a red herring like the ecu ones.

No idea what you are talking about the "wire dance", what exactly are you doing mate?

When you are checking the abs codes, are you removing the shorting pin on the diagnostic socket under the bonnet? Also, the code clearing has to be done before putting that link back in.

For the cruise, constant flashing means no errors. Try clearing the codes and see if it reverts back to normal or registers any new codes (Remove ECU-B fuse for atleast 10 seconds).

Edit: added the word "fuse" above so it made sense!

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Hi Tiger,

We posted on the same time, I just updated my earlier post. See above yours.

Wiring dance:

http://www.lexls.com...irbaglight.html

and there:

http://www.clublexus...ight-reset.html

and there:

http://lextech.org/f...x.php?topic=9.0

Dear me, that was tedious... Cold out there... and trying to get the rythm wasn't good...

I didn't remove the shortin pin to get any code. Wasn't ware of that.

Not sure is the ABS is a bother nw tho, as its flashing like the Cruise but no cose at all. Just constant flashing? The pin was in tho.

I was wondering wha this wee pin was for?

What is ECU B?

Thank you :)

Olivier

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Yeah, that is the right process to reset the srs light. Persistance will pay off.... lol

Sorry, missed out a crucial word there, it should be "ECU-B fuse".

No idea what the link is specifically for, just that it needs removing to carry out the code reading.

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Hello All,

I am moving on and I am selling the lexus.

http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/lexus-gs300-1993-lpg-converted-with-top-bigas-sequential-systemlong-mot-jun-she-need-to-go-now/1007442024

I am going back to the veggie motoring and got a Delica yesterday. Its a different beast, still Japanese tho :)

Thank you all for the help , especially Tiger without whom I wouldn't have done half the sorting on the car and the understanding.

All the best.

Olivier

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