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The Battery modules shown have a manufacturing date of 24/October/2011.

The code reads first two digits = day of month.   24th day

Next digit is 1-9-x-y-z = month of year.   X=10 (October)

Next digit year is A starts 1999.    M=2011

 

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For those that have done this job, did you fill the transmission with new fluid or re-use the fluid that came out. I've read differing opinions online and I'm concerned about underfilling/overfilling the transmission.

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1 minute ago, markirl said:

For those that have done this job, did you fill the transmission with new fluid or re-use the fluid that came out. I've read differing opinions online and I'm concerned about underfilling/overfilling the transmission.

New without a doubt. 

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Absolutely 100% new every time also worth dropping sump & fit new strainer - I found a broken bracket in sump which holds a small metal transfer pipe common fault I am told gasket part number is 35168 30020 if you find the drawing showing that on toyo diy you will see strainer

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One final query/verification - Instructions earlier in the thread say to fill the car from the top "fill" plug, and there is a second plug slightly lower which is the level plug? 

Every auto transmission I've worked on has just had a fill & drain plug, so want to be sure that this is the case! 

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I've disassembled my pump and replaced both bearings. The existing bearings were NSK and poor quality, they had both dumped their grease too and were dry. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping this is my issue (needed to be done anyway). Interestingly, I had to drill off the heads of the screws (used 7mm drill bit oversize) but no need to re-tap as a pair of pliers on the ends extracted the remains. There is also some corrosion on the mating faces where it appears that the pump wasn't assembled properly. Tonight's plan is grab 3x 16-18mm M5 screws tomorrow and then reassemble the whole lot, on my driveway using a couple of old 20cm high ramps :(

Also found a broken exhaust clamp (just hanging on) and a broken earth strap on the car, plain as day to see. The car was in with Lexus last week and I asked them to give it a full check over - I feel like I totally wasted my money as they clearly didn't. 

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This is so often the case, its really disappointing when we the general public & owners (like myself) of these cars who are LED to believe &  trust that Lexus dealers are the best & will do as they actually say they will, unfortunately to me (& a lot of my customers too by the way) it seems that most of them are Franchised & as such like pretty much all Franchised Dealers only really after one thing - your money of course. I really hope there are exceptions out there I cant believe all of them are this way.

Recently I posted on the Lexus owners club Facebook group page offering free advice & guidance on Battery, auxiliary transmission pump & shock absorber issues to any one who is having problems, pretty much directly after i posted i was grilled heavily by another member of the group as to my qualifications & experience which I was able to provide easily. He was clearly trying to discredit me to any one reading - It was only after this "conversation" ended after my repeat insistence's !! - that I thought I would have a look at this persons Facebook profile & guess what!!!

Yep you guessed it he is employed by a Lexus dealership as an after-sales manager would you believe!!!

I think the moral is only go on other owners experiences & reccomendations.

With your transmission filling questions - if you would like to PM me I can give you a great tip on how to fill very easily to the correct level really easily & with no mess - from my own experience!!!

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On 2/17/2015 at 10:58 PM, Hayne said:

Hi Komain,

If the wiring has been checked, then there is likely to be something else wrong with the pump. It is such a simple design, that the most likely failure point (in my opinion, as I have stripped the pump down fully and inspected this) will be the front bearing.

Before you look at this, have you checked electrical continuity of the pump windings from the loom connector?

The pump has three coiled windings (like a stepper motor), so each of these must be measured. They are fixed coils and is a brushless design (i.e. no moving electrical parts).

Remove the large connector from the Oil Pump Controller (mounted on the left hand side wheel arch under the air box pipe). Get an Ohm-meter, and measure each of the three power wires on this connector, in turn, to ground (battery 0V); i.e. hold the black probe to battery 0V and the red probe to each wire in turn. Each winding will be about 0.5 ohms. It only takes a few minutes to check this, so its well worth while (I wouldn't trust any one else to do it, even if they are supposed to be Lexus experts).

If this is the case, then the pump is mostly likely to be electrically ok. Remove the pump and replace the bearings. I have a basic list of instructions further up this thread.

It is not a difficult job to do either, you just need a ramp for a day. I will find the part numbers of the bearings and post them on here so you can buy them in advance. You will also need 5 litres of Toyota ATF-WS to refill the transmission afterwards.

Good luck with the repair.

Giles.

So I didn't do this step, but just tried to test the motor off the car. My understanding regarding motors was that there should be no continuity between ground and the windings but each of the windings should have a resistance to each other - I got 0.9ohm between each stator but open circuit to ground, which I would interpret as a good motor? 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have only bought a GS450h yesterday... back into Lexus ownership :)

going to pick it up today.

I know the car has a Check Hybrid error displayed and EML light on. So I am heading there with my TIS computer to do a scan and see what codes it comes up with.

Judging by the age (56 plate) and mileage 125K , seems very possible there might be the issue with the bearings.

But will know better once I get there later today.

Last MOT in July was OK, no faults etc and this was 600 miles ago. So the error just came up not long ago.

I am ordering the bearings just in case :) as the cost is small

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have done the bearing replacement yesterday to my '56 GS450h, thought it was best to do before I take it for the HV Battery repair (two blocks failing).

The whole process was easy, however the 3 philips screws were a pain to remove... they needed a bit hammering in order to remove.

The bearings were dry and noisy have not failed yet though. I installed the new ones and the pump did sound better. At least I prefented a failure.

I noticed water was trying to get in the pump, so put some silicon spray on the rubber seals and also some black sealant to insulate it a bit better.

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  • 4 months later...

Thank you HAYNE i have used your advice and changed two bearings and everything is fine now. I am from Mongolia by the way. Hybrid system is working and so happy. Thank very much again. God bless you.

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Awesome!! Glad you managed to repair it.

Thanks for telling me about your success! And happy motoring!

I have done 30k miles since replacing the bearings and it's still going strong. Car has done 187k now and drives perfect (although I will be selling it later this month as I fancy something different).

Giles.

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  • 3 months later...

A bump, but, would these bearings potentially cause a pump type sound to come from under the front of car when the ele system is in ready mode?

I've got a weird pump noise that is getting worse, and which having posted on here (different thread of course) no one seems to have any ideas what it could be. Horizon kindly offered some guesses, but insight has been short coming. I saw this thread and as it's a pump, and it linked to the ele system, I wonder if perhaps this pump and potentially ropey bearings could be the cause?

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6 minutes ago, Upex said:

A bump, but, would these bearings potentially cause a pump type sound to come from under the front of car when the ele system is in ready mode?

I've got a weird pump noise that is getting worse, and which having posted on here (different thread of course) no one seems to have any ideas what it could be. Horizon kindly offered some guesses, but insight has been short coming. I saw this thread and as it's a pump, and it linked to the ele system, I wonder if perhaps this pump and potentially ropey bearings could be the cause?

Hi Robert,

Very unlikely to be the auxiliary transmission fluid pump as its not running very often,just when the gearbox changes from low ratio to high, and back again. Also, its unlikely you'd hear it as its inside loads of metal and bolted to the gearbox.

Maybe it could be the hybrid coolant pump? Is your hybrid coolant topped up ok? (under the right hand engine cover in front of the inverter with the thick orange wires). Check this is full of coolant first. I've seen some threads talking about failing coolant pumps. Does this happen whenever the car is in READY mode, or just when it's hot?

Cheers, Giles.

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Hi Giles,

I think the noise happens whenever on ready, and slows down when in Park but still on (running if it were normal petrol). Speeds up when in drive and more so when driving/under load. I'll have to double check if there when cold, and check the coolant (not had chance to whip the covers off yet as wifes car is in pieces on drive).

I though noise was from front offside wheel area, but thinking about it, I've not checked the other side as it got louder when stuck my head near front offside wheel so I assumed it was there.

If you know what the coolant pump would sound like, I have a vid from front wheel area with sound:

It does appear to have got worse of late, but it's also warmer, so perhaps your on the right lines, but my anxiety is also increasing lol.

Thanks, Upex

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Have checked and it does still make the noise when starting from cold, just harder to hear as engine running.

Opened bonnet and the sound is on the right side of car ( ie drivers side in uk) so don't think it's the coolant pump as that's on the other side. Darn it, means still no clue as to what it is lol.

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18 hours ago, Upex said:

Have checked and it does still make the noise when starting from cold, just harder to hear as engine running.

Opened bonnet and the sound is on the right side of car ( ie drivers side in uk) so don't think it's the coolant pump as that's on the other side. Darn it, means still no clue as to what it is lol.

Mmm. I'm not sure about this. But, Mark Byrne on here had the same sort of sound coming from his car. I heard it when he came over for me to do something to his car. I wasn't sure then either. But, maybe he has resolved it now. Its worth asking him. This was about 2 years ago. I'll dig out his username.

Giles.

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Just now, Hayne said:

Mmm. I'm not sure about this. But, Mark Byrne on here had the same sort of sound coming from his car. I heard it when he came over for me to do something to his car. I wasn't sure then either. But, maybe he has resolved it now. Its worth asking him. This was about 2 years ago. I'll dig out his username.

Giles.

It's MarkB1983. Try private messaging him.

Maybe he can help you.

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Thanks Giles, just dropped mark a pm, as be useful for everyone to know of that one, even if not same as mine.

Thanks for digging out the username and helping, now just need to hope Mark still active lol.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi there,

My first time on the forum for several months! Just posted a new issue if any of you can help! http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/113364-continuous-knocking-from-left-side-of-car-advice-appreciated/

With regard to the problem Giles is referring to, it sounds like it is an electrical buzzing. I have never got to the bottom of this issue. If it sounds the same as your problem Robert, it happens all of the time but you can obviously hear it a lot more when the car is running just on Battery. Did you ever have this issue diagnosed? Does it sound the same as mine?

Giles, sorry to hear you've parted with the GS450h! What did you replace it with? Nice to see your advice on here has seen a lot of other owners have solved the dreaded bearing issue! So far I have not had this issue, but I know where the help is when it does occur!

Giles, could you remind me where you got the bearings from? Are the details of the type of bearings needed in your user guide for this?

 

Cheers,

Mark

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry for bumping up a old thread but Hayne told us here:

"I found a broken bracket in sump which hols a small metal transfer pipe common fault"

I too found that piece when I opened my transmission up from the bottom.

Would we not need it?
 

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On 8/21/2016 at 3:46 PM, hybridbatterysolutions said:

Absolutely 100% new every time also worth dropping sump & fit new strainer - I found a broken bracket in sump which holds a small metal transfer pipe common fault I am told gasket part number is 35168 30020 if you find the drawing showing that on toyo diy you will see strainer

This was my original post about the pipe bracket, I got mine welded up by a specialist welder, I can only presume its there as part of the fluid transfer system so not fitting the pipe with bits security bracket back in could i guess affect the manual gearing or some-such, definately best to repair & refit IMHO

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If the pump passes Techstream Active Test, does this mean it is good? Can anyone tell me what rubber tube is on the pump you need to remove in order to disassembel the whole unit?

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