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Clicking & Ticking Noise..?


imi
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Hi All...

Hoping someone can shed some light on this.. :crybaby:

My IS is making a weird clicking n tick noise after it has been started..! happened this morning, the other night, there is a big drop in acceleration and the Accellarator pedal is heavy,kind of sluggish feeling you get when driving a diesal :ohmy:

This morning it wasn't bad.. gave a 330Ci run for its money :whistling: , but on way home from work yesterday, i couldn't overtake a CHAV'd out Corsa :blush::lol:

This has been happening for a while, had my alternator changed (due to failing), changed the batterry to Red Top, but then the other day the tick tick sound started..

The noise is coming from where the acclerator throttle cable thing is on the engine.(only happens on idle) i have the induction kit, so with the cover removed, i can see where the tick is coming from (sorry don't know name) something to do with the throttle block where the throttle cable wraps round :duh: it ticks n move left/right :huh::crybaby: but If I rev the engine a little (from throttle thing) the tick kind of holds off for a bit..

It's like the car wants to idle higher (normal) but something is stopping it from doing it, the revs drop to .5, i have lost the exhaust ROAR as well, no power feeling. :crybaby:

Sorry it's long and probably makes no sense :tomato:

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Also, have had it hooked up to a diagnostics machine, no errors shown, everything normal.. my mate has one at a local garage - also his apprentice works in Lexus Leeds, a young lad says that the "Thottle

Response Unit" is a regular failure on these..??

Anybody???

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there is a servo in the throttle body, if you turn the key to on/run but dont start the engine u will hear a high pitched humming sound ( normal) but the unit shouldnt be moving - there is a clutch breakout mechanism built into it, maybe this is at fault??

try a "hard reset" disconnect the Battery for a bit and see what happens, also check the security and condition of electrical connections.

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thanks fluff, will try this, how long shall i leave the disconnection of the Battery?

The noise only happens when the car is on, the ring that the acclerator cable wraps round has a spring on the left of it, (sorry aint got a pic) both the spring and the ring tick n move.

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just a min or so is more than enough.

With the ignition on mine just humms, doesnt move at all - maybe other members can have a look at thiers also ( u only need to open the bonnet) and see if its twitching

.

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do you reckon its got owt to do with the throttle body being "Gummed Up", could try and get hold of some cleaner like the carb spray that goes into the Air intake? (as could pop round to the auto shop on way home)

(will give the Battery reset later on after work)

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do you reckon its got owt to do with the throttle body being "Gummed Up", could try and get hold of some cleaner like the carb spray that goes into the Air intake? (as could pop round to the auto shop on way home)

(will give the battery reset later on after work)

i have the same rattle problem, like something is lose. but i do not get loss of power.

If the susggestion by fluff does't cure it. get under the car and gently hit the cat with a rubber mallet. if it rattles, the baffles have gone and would need replacing. this would coause loss of exhaust note, power and give that sound.

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UPDATE:

Cat sounds fine. Did a Battery removal and re-connect, also cleaned the throttle body responce thingy with a Carb Cleaner.. the car was a bit better last nite, was a deep tone in exhaust, kick in the car etc.. but a few hours later, back to normal, the cars headlights go down, when i give some gas the bright up (got new Red Top Battery)..

What was strange, when i started the car this morning, the rev idle flew up to 1.7 nearly to 2 :o is that normal?

Fluff there is no humming noise when i put the ignition before starting the car.. Does that mean something wrong with the throttle body sensor or something?

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as u say the lights dim and brighten when u rev the car, check that you are getting a proper output from your alternator.

2nd bit.

put the key to the position so u get all the dial warning lights etc, open bonnet and listen in the area of the throttle - u should be able to clearly hear the servo.

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as u say the lights dim and brighten when u rev the car, check that you are getting a proper output from your alternator.

2nd bit.

put the key to the position so u get all the dial warning lights etc, open bonnet and listen in the area of the throttle  - u should be able to clearly hear the servo.

Had a new another alternator put on, both the Battery showing good voltage and the alternator, showing around 13 i think but somewhere in betwwen the power is missing :blink: wonder if pre-cats got owt to do with?

(when the cars is fine, the lights don't go dim, it holds the voltage perfectly..)

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when ur checking the alternator is the engine hot or cold - just thinking if there is a dodgy connection somewhere, and when it is hot its not making contact, or the regulator isnt working properly.

to check the cats, the easiest way i have found is to take the sensors out and stick a flexible boroscope in there ( but i have that equipment) may not be an option for most people, if u have an SC it saves the hassle of taking that and the frame out.

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started car this morning and the revs went too high 2000rpm on first start :o even moving after 500 yds up street when in neautral the revs were still pretty high :o

The car drove a bit slugish, but when i did get a chance to kick it on a long run, 2nd,3r,4th there some burning smell coming through the vents!! not had it before! What could that be?

Getting the pe-cats check done on Mon, "Fluff" the alternator is new-ish and regulator was too, got the alternator tested before putting it on the car..

How com no CEL lights etc are coming on? Got hooked up to the Toyota/Lexus Diagnosis machine, it shows everythings fine..

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"imi" we have met a few times so rob will do! LOL

burning smell is not good, what type of smell electrical or fuel?? would check the alternator/regulator unit tested again- u never know!

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:blink:

Sounds like your electronic throttle response is on it way out. You may find that the motor that powers it is knackered and when you accelerate the electronic throttle that tries to move it will be shaking and not fully opening the throttle. That could give you the loss of power. the ticking when idling may be the same thing trying to hold the throttle at a steady level in order to idle but because it is knackered it is not able to stay still.

if you know what I mean.

I don't know any way of checking if this is the problem but it may be something to look into.

on the other hand you could (as said before) disconnect the Battery and you will here 16 quiet beeps from the rear of the car, after this, put your foot on the brake for bout 5-10 secs to drain the residual power from the ecu. Reconnect the Battery and try it then.

My car kept dying right after I started it yesterday and I gave GriM a call and he told me go through that process. The car started first time and is running spot on now!!!!

The only thing is that you will have reset all your radio and clock settings etc. and you should drive your car fairly hard for about half a tank of petrol so the ecu can re-learn you power curve from the engine.

Hope that helps and good luck getting it sorted! :winky:

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oh and the burning smell could also be the electronic throttle motor burning out!!!

thanks for the info.. i have done the Battery reset thing yesterday, drove it and gave it a good boot on dual carraige way.. only ting i noticed was after the reset when i started the car the idle was really poor, had to hold revs with allcelerator..

The throttle motor ticks, as you said when it can't hold the idle etc.. apply bit of gas it's fine, let go and then its same.. after a bit of drive rev are fine.. but no kick..

is it one big unit or differnt bits into one?

any idea of a cost for the throttle response motor?

will it cause any harm if i can carry on driving till i get checked out?

Thanks

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are you sure its not your tappets imi ,may need re shimmed.

Nah been told that it could be the settings of the camshaft and crankshaft, i recievd the "Dealer Settings" for these 'thanks to Chris' :winky: so the mechanic is having a look at this tomorrow evening..

I did however ring Lexus Bradford, explained the conditon of the car etc, and he pointed out to get these settings checked and hopefully it should be sorted, if it doesn't then it's off to the dealers, he also said it could be the Coil Pack, cos a few IS's and a GS have had had theirs replaced lately..

will let ya know tho..

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oh and the burning smell could also be the electronic throttle motor burning out!!!

thanks for the info.. i have done the Battery reset thing yesterday, drove it and gave it a good boot on dual carraige way.. only ting i noticed was after the reset when i started the car the idle was really poor, had to hold revs with allcelerator..

The throttle motor ticks, as you said when it can't hold the idle etc.. apply bit of gas it's fine, let go and then its same.. after a bit of drive rev are fine.. but no kick..

is it one big unit or differnt bits into one?

any idea of a cost for the throttle response motor?

will it cause any harm if i can carry on driving till i get checked out?

Thanks

Hi imi,

If you need to buy one, try giving "simpson Brothers" of york a ring.

They're a breakers, and they've got an IS200 in.

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are you sure its not your tappets imi ,may need re shimmed.

Nah been told that it could be the settings of the camshaft and crankshaft, i recievd the "Dealer Settings" for these 'thanks to Chris' :winky: so the mechanic is having a look at this tomorrow evening..

I did however ring Lexus Bradford, explained the conditon of the car etc, and he pointed out to get these settings checked and hopefully it should be sorted, if it doesn't then it's off to the dealers, he also said it could be the Coil Pack, cos a few IS's and a GS have had had theirs replaced lately..

will let ya know tho..

yeh do so,hey like duncan says try that breakers,it might pay you to get a new engine cheap ,sounds drastic but you could find yourself spending a lot on getting it solved,hope it doesnt but keep your options open mate.

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mmm.. Well the mechanic had a look at the crank n camshaft settings, all good, but he did mention one thing.. that the when the car had been on for a bout 5-10 mins he could smell something like the CAT is on its way out! :o but no fault light is displaying??

could it be the cat or even a pre-cat that's gone?

will it be a good idea to getting booked in at dealers just the find out where the fault is?

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