Common Aristo Problems..what To Watch Out For.

monster · January 25, 2006

Gonna go looking at a mark ii Aristo V300 tomorrow. What do you guys think about trading in the IS200 S/c for a V300? Do you think there will be a noticeable different in performance? What will i miss from the IS200 and has anyone done this?

Also has anyone got any advice on what problem to look out for with this model? And how to spot them. Can be a little impulsive so definitely do not want to walk away with a lemon. Searched already and it seems the turbos blowing may be a problem - how would I notice this without comparing performance? Was there any type of face lift models and what extra equipment were on these?

Also I presume any satnav/screen will be in Japanese is there any way to convert this? bHas anyone done this and how much would it cost?

Sorry for the bombardment of questions, but thought I'd ask the experts and anyone else for their opinion. :duh:

Cheers,

Miles

skeet94 · January 25, 2006

IMHO the Aristo is much quicker than a SC IS200. Also more comfortable :). Power delivery is smooth as well, just quicker and has the "plant you in your seat" feel when at WOT.

For Turbo's the first turbo spools up about 2,500-3000rpm and the second at 4,000 rpm IIRC (been too long since I've driven mine just sitting in a garage :( ). If you hear a whine of any sort, LIKE THIS then walk away, without hesitating!! Thats the noise the 2nd turbo makes when dead.

Also make sure the gearbox kicks down perfectly.

Check for knocks in the front when parking up or turning at low speed.

Check the CD Player isn't skipping, or sound is intermittent until you smack the CD Player (misaligned Laser in CD Player). Make sure tiptronic and everything else works properly. Power/Snow should be checked. ABS should be checked.

Brake at high speed (70mph) for juddering of the steering wheel, which would suggest ball joints or warped discs.

Make sure the ARS is working, check all lights. First upgrade I'd recommend on car is to pick up the ARS Cancellor from TOMS for no more broken ARS racks/uneven tire wear.

Smoke on startup should be checked, blue smoke = oil burning...possibly the valve stem seals.

White smoke = moisture or internal coolant leak.

Check for smoke in rear when at Wide Open Throttle, to see if all is normal (no smoke) or black or blue smog.

Apart from that just check for standard body damage.

Check for cracks etc on rubber piping, especially the top radiator pipe and IC piping (although hard to do properly).

Facelift models started from 2001 onwards IIRC, changes are purely cosmetic. Extra equipment is TV, SATNAV, Electric heated memory seats andleather.

Talk to Luke (soarer tv conversions) regarding SATNAV & TV & DAB conversion. Good prices and a very good guy to talk to.

Finally, drive it away slowly so the previous owner can say bye properly :).

Anything more, just ask :).

monster · January 25, 2006

That is spot on mate!!! :)

Any idea of the cost involved with the tv conversion? It's something that's in my plans if I get one. Do you know at what milage the cambelt/timing belt changes are required? And lastly what are the best mods for this car and approx value?

Thanks again.

Miles

skeet94 · January 26, 2006

That is spot on mate!!! :)
Any idea of the cost involved with the tv conversion? It's something that's in my plans if I get one. Do you know at what milage the cambelt/timing belt changes are required? And lastly what are the best mods for this car and approx value?

Thanks again.

Miles

Cost of the TV conversion can vary depending on what you get done with it...ie: TV & DAB, TV & DVD, etc. TV on it's own isn't too much (iirc £300 or around about that). I'd PM Luke about that personally...I'll forward his PM details to you in a bit.

Timing Belt should be done @ 60k.

BPU mods should be done first of all, which consist of sorting out the breathing (Exhaust, Induction Kit, High-Flow CATS/De-Cat, higher boost). Shouldn't cost more than £2500 including Labor). After that you can pick up a FMIC, uprated Radiator. I'd suggest you do NOT de-cat with a larger diameter exhaust, as you'll encounter Boost Creep (NOT GOOD!). Although I highly suggest you get used to the car and standard power before modifications. Also I suggest you look into improving handling before getting more power (Coilovers, struts, anti-roll bars, etc). Braking should also be improved IMHO before upgrading power. Then finally comes BPU (Basic Performance Mods) before you upgrade to a single and therefore the gearbox too.

In summary:

1) Handling - TOMS ARS Cancellor, Suspension (Tein CS or Flex), tires (Eagle F1's), anti-roll bars (TRD or Daizen), strut braces (TRD or TOMS).

2) Braking - uprated discs/pads (Black Diamond Discs & Pads) or BBK (StopTech).

3) Performance/Cooling - Exhaust, High Flow CATS, Induction Kit/Performance Filter (APEXi Power Intake), Boost Controller/AFR Controller (HKS or Blitz), FMIC (HKS, GReddy, Blitz or Spearco with Custom Piping) & Uprated Radiator, Upgraded Traction Control (Racelogic), Upgraded & Rebuilt Autobox (Boostlogic, SP Motorsports, Import Performance Transmission) with high stall Torque Convertor, Piggyback or Full Replacement ECU (GReddy E-Manage Ultimate, HKS F-Con, AEM EMS, Motec M600/M800) Uprated Fuel System (Powerhouse Racing, Boostlogic), Manifold & Single Turbo (HKS Manifold from Taka Kaira or Custom made with Boostlogic, SP, Garrett, HKS, PowerHouse Racing), Stroker Kit (3.2L Jun, 3.4L HKS, 3.4L Titan Motorsports).

I think that covers most of it if not all of it. Pricing can vary but if you need them give me a shout and I'll post up the individual website links to all of them.

monster · January 26, 2006

Cheers Man! That's some more great info! :D Got the Pm and got in touch with Luke.

Realistically say I wanted to spend about 3K how much extra HP could I be looking at. See I'm just trying to compare this with the IS (which does seem very limited), cos when I get bored with a car I look to modding to prolong my interest.

Thanks, Miles

skeet94 · January 27, 2006

£3k can get you a bit of power :).

If I had £3k, I'd look at doing the following in order:

1) FCD.

2) HiFlow CATs or DeCAT with aftermarket exhaust with a restrictor ring to prevent boost creep (personally get a turbo back system in case of future upgrades).

3) BOV.

4) Boost Controller to boost up to 17psi (highest I'd do if not looking to replace the twins is 15psi to be on the extra-safe side).

5) One grade cooler spark plugs.

6) APEXi S-AFC or any other AFC.

7) Induction Kit and heatshield (prefab if you can find one, or DIY). Heatshield does make a big difference with a Induction Kit...or you could just use a high performance K&N filter in the stock airbox if you prefer.

8) Remove front fogs to enable better cooling of SMIC.

9) With all that power I'd upgrade the brake discs & Pads, and Goodridge stainless brake lines (Black Diamond is highly recommended by Yoshi).

10) I'd also look into getting a Automatic Transmission Fluid Cooler or two with fans to make sure the gearbox is cool and if you want pick up a high stall torque convertor and run the turbo's in True Twin Mode - Parallel instead of Sequential; to achieve a higher boost level (around 18psi) safely.

11) If you have more money burning a hole in your pocket then look at getting a FMIC, then go single with the supported fuel and transmission modifications.

That should easily eat away at £3000 and maybe more. Should give you quite a bit of power increase.

Hope that helps :).

JS820 · November 3, 2006

IMHO the Aristo is much quicker than a SC IS200. Also more comfortable :). Power delivery is smooth as well, just quicker and has the "plant you in your seat" feel when at WOT.
For Turbo's the first turbo spools up about 2,500-3000rpm and the second at 4,000 rpm IIRC (been too long since I've driven mine just sitting in a garage :( ). If you hear a whine of any sort, LIKE THIS then walk away, without hesitating!! Thats the noise the 2nd turbo makes when dead.

Also make sure the gearbox kicks down perfectly.

Check for knocks in the front when parking up or turning at low speed.

Check the CD Player isn't skipping, or sound is intermittent until you smack the CD Player (misaligned Laser in CD Player). Make sure tiptronic and everything else works properly. Power/Snow should be checked. ABS should be checked.

Brake at high speed (70mph) for juddering of the steering wheel, which would suggest ball joints or warped discs.

Make sure the ARS is working, check all lights. First upgrade I'd recommend on car is to pick up the ARS Cancellor from TOMS for no more broken ARS racks/uneven tire wear.

Smoke on startup should be checked, blue smoke = oil burning...possibly the valve stem seals.

White smoke = moisture or internal coolant leak.

Check for smoke in rear when at Wide Open Throttle, to see if all is normal (no smoke) or black or blue smog.

Apart from that just check for standard body damage.

Check for cracks etc on rubber piping, especially the top radiator pipe and IC piping (although hard to do properly).

Facelift models started from 2001 onwards IIRC, changes are purely cosmetic. Extra equipment is TV, SATNAV, Electric heated memory seats andleather.

Talk to Luke (soarer tv conversions) regarding SATNAV & TV & DAB conversion. Good prices and a very good guy to talk to.

Finally, drive it away slowly so the previous owner can say bye properly :).

Anything more, just ask :).

WOULD SOMEBODY TELL WHAT IS THE PROBLEM IF THERE IS KNOCKING SOUND IN THE FRONT WHEN PARKING OR TURNING AT LOW SPEED?

I'VE REPLACED ALL SHOCKS TO THE NEW FACTORY STOCK, AND ALL FRONT BUSHES, IT STOPPED A WHILE BUT NOW APPEARS AGAIN. IT'S ANNOYING...

aido · November 3, 2006

Just updated your other post - odds are it could be the brake pads moving around if they're worn so might be worth looking at those next?

Paul Reece · November 3, 2006

One of the other problems to look out for is the Throttle body sensor.

If you have to put accelerator pedal nearly all the way down to the floor to get it moving and the VSC Light, Check engine lights come then it stands a good chance that the Trottle Body Sensor is playing up.

I only know this because it happened to mine.

All the best.

Paul.

Dave-Ellen · November 3, 2006

One of the other problems to look out for is the Throttle body sensor.
If you have to put accelerator pedal nearly all the way down to the floor to get it moving and the VSC Light, Check engine lights come then it stands a good chance that the Trottle Body Sensor is playing up.

I only know this because it happened to mine.

All the best.

Paul.

good tip...............

mine stopped the other day..............turned out some i/c pipes had blown off luckily wasnt me driving round the M25 at 25 mph tightend up and off we go