Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Leaderboard

  1. messi

    messi

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      1,843


  2. Spacewagon52

    Spacewagon52

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      3,048


  3. Malc

    Malc

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      7,397


  4. Monocle

    Monocle

    Members


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      167


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/25/2016 in all areas

  1. First off, I am not a mechanic so my terminology may annoy some of you! I did this as i was getting a lack of power at about 2500revs mainly in higher gears. It has improved dramatically. Fuel efficiency seems to have improved but only slightly so I can't say for sure. For this guide, I refer to right and left as you stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine. I know this is not the norm so apologies if confusing. Front refers to the front of the car as standard. Also, the elec. connectors are the biggest pain in the &%$£. Trying to squeeze the clip and pull at the same time is so difficult as they are usually well stuck in place being nine years old! Don’t give up! Job time – 10 hours over two days (I didn’t have a guide so hopefully you will do it faster – it would take me about 6 hours if I did it again) Set up tools, bench, laptop, etc. (1 hour) Disassembly (5 hours) Cleaning (2 hours) Reassembly (2 hours) Basic tools are required but just having a good socket set is very important. Not necessary to jack up vehicle but would help. I drove the front wheels up on 3inch blocks. This is the order I did it in, you may want to do it a little differently. I include headings for the most part but in general this order worked well. Here we go!... Covers: Remove primary engine cover Remove RH engine cover Remove LH engine cover Remove front engine cover Remove under engine covers (x2) Battery: Disconnect battery terminals Remove battery horizontal support brace Disconnect the electrical connection on the LH side of the battery cover Remove battery cover Remove battery Remove base cover of battery Remove battery vertical support brace Remove control module under battery (x3 bolts – long one goes on RH side) Disconnect 3 elec. connectors on control module Remove bottom battery case (x3 bolts) EGR: Remove EGR pipe and gaskets Disconnect EGR elec. connector Remove EGR valve Radiator: Open radiator cap and drain ***** (have bucket ready to take ~5 litres) Drain fluid Remove air intake duct above radiator Disconnect inlet and outlet pipes of radiator fluid reservoir tank Remove reservoir tank Various: Disconnect fuse box wire harness clips (x2) Disconnect common rail front end elec. connector Disconnect common rail fuel supply hose Disconnect common rail rear end elec. connector Remove wire harness support bolts (x2) Various: Disconnect EGR valve rear end elec. connector Remove five wire harness clips (red arrows) Remove harness support (green arrow) Remove sponge adjacent to EGR valve Various: Remove bolts (x3) on water pipe (blue arrow) below EGR assembly Remove clip at front end of pipe and slide hose off Remove vacuum hose (small) from water pipe (underneath) Remove elec. connector under vacuum hose & remove clip also (hard to see but you’ll know it has to be disconnected) Push hose assembly out of the way – towards battery area (no need to fully disconnect) Air Flow (Throttle) Assembly:- Disconnect three elec. connectors on air flow unit Remove bolt on air flow unit Common Rail:- Remove common rail bolt (x2) Remove common rail fuel lines Protect (tissue) the common rail connectors & ports Remove common rail and keep clean Inlet Manifold: Disconnect vacuum hose from inlet manifold Remove inlet manifold upper stay bolt (it’s a vertical support that can be hard to see) Remove air flow pipe to inlet manifold (1 clip also) (difficult to remove for me but keep twisting and pulling – there is a lip to overcome) Loosen inlet manifold lower stay nut (very difficult to access – hard to even see. This was the most awkward part of the whole job. You should really disconnect for easier access but it would be impossible to get it back on – loosening and pushing it aside was fine for me) See diagram below. Remove bolts (~x9) on intake manifold Remove intake manifold Cleaning: Clean inlet manifold – I used a power hose, carburettor cleaner, screwdriver for scraping & kitchen paper. Clean inlet ports – as above but I used a hoover continuously to prevent as much carbon as possible entering the valves/cylinders Reinstall in reverse – much easier than disassembly! Prime the fuel system.
    2 points
  2. It will be interesting to compare to my Mk3 Ls400 .............. a replacement car for the g/f's 1994 Mazda 323f, which will possibly be MOT rust terminal in September. I said I was thinking of getting one ....... it's a 56 plate with 106k miles, Full Honda Service History and top of the range SH-AWD 3.5ltr ( + all the extras when new, and about £40k ) Looked after for the last 5 years like a baby, slate grey with rare white hide upholstery. Buying it from my ex brother in law whom I have known for about 53 years, he used to do the Pirelli Stelvio Pass Rally a few years back in a mini etc ...... when he was much younger Selling the Legend as he's just taken delivery of his brand new company car, a red Lexus RC ? which he's already telling me doesn't have all the super features as on " his " Legend ( but I guess a few more though ! ) paying £4k for it, about bottom trade price I think .. I'll let you know what it's all about, driving, comfort etc when I get to experience it ... but I do so like, and shall miss immeasurably, the tight little quick gearbox of the ancient Mazda 323f though Malc
    2 points
  3. My father had a Honda Legend, he really looked after it, it had 457000 miles when he sold it, and it still started up first time
    2 points
  4. https://www.gumtree.com/p/lexus/prestigious-2006-lexus-ls430-4.3-v8-ono/1177915136 This vehicle has done over 280000 miles and hasnt had a cambelt replaced as previous owner was told it was chain driven, now this trader has bought it off the previous and clocked it back to 80000 miles, the reg is LD06VHK
    1 point
  5. 2009 brochure is the best I can do : http://www.lexus.com/documents/brochures/2009/2009-Lexus-GS-Brochure.pdf Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. I've not read all seven pages on this topic so what I'm about to say may be complete rubbish, or it may even have been mentioned earlier but, as a relatively new owner of a 2005 RX300 (had it two months now), I'm also disappointed about the amount of light at the back of the car when reversing in darkness. However, I think the lights themselves are bright enough but it's the photochromic mirrors to blame. The 'porch light' at our house comes on when it's dark but when I'm trying to reverse up the drive I can hardly see anything at all due to all the mirrors going dark. I drove a van for many years when I was a telephone engineer on BT so I'm more comfortable and more used to using the mirrors to reverse rather than twisting around to look out of the rear window (plus my back injury makes that movement a painful one!). Also, the brightness of the reversing camera screen, if my eye happens to catch it, can then make looking into the dark mirrors even worse than normal. Photochromic mirrors are a great idea while driving but should be disabled when reverse gear is selected, in my humble opinion anyway.
    1 point
  7. Presumably voted worst car ever by people who have never owned one. I think they look fab, and they certainly stand out from the German crowd!
    1 point
  8. MOT history is available from here - http://regisearch.co.uk/registration_search.php?registration=CK04LTE&make=LEXUS Hope this helps,
    1 point
  9. Hi John, From my limited knowledge: Does it make the noise if you adjust it when NOT sitting in it - it my need lubricated somewhere or may be noise from the motors - my IS did that and so does my new Rav. Buy some good quality, non-gloss trim cleaner - get it from polished bliss online - they will advise on something good. No idea... It should be obvious to see at night when using your headlights - you'll see it as the steering wheel turns, especially on dark country roads. Double pressing the key does add the deadlocks. Quality of fuel may not be helping - I'd stick to branded fuel (BP, Shell etc) and avoid the supermarket stuff (which is bulked up with some sort of filler like rapeseed - I have had issues with a few cars and the Subaru dealer dealt with it often and had to clean out essentially slime from the bottom of fuel tanks which were run all the time on cheap supermarket fuels). There seems to be general research that standard good fuel (Shell etc) is as good as Supermarket super-unleaded for quality and economy. Hope that helps. Brian.
    1 point
  10. I bought my '04 with 82,000miles and full Lexus service history from Lexus Hull one year ago for £7000. Many would have said that was over priced but everything about it was right including the fact that the dealer had supplied the car to last owner who had it for seven years. I am very pleased with my purchase. It is gold with black interior which to my eye is perfect with the red wood trim. Do check for rust underneath especially at the back. Do not just assume because it is a Lexus there will be no rust. Also check everything works for that sort of money and that the cam belt was renewed at 10 years. Check the air suspension cycles up and down. Why not phone Lexus Sheffield and see if their service manager will talk to you about the car. Good luck
    1 point
  11. Depends how much you want to lose the aesthetic properties of the car. They look awful and I don't understand what's so hard about washing cow poo off the car. You just need hot water and good shampoo
    1 point
  12. Hi Jack, firstly, I'm assuming the accident was not your fault, right? If thats the case, take your car to Lexus. The 3rd party's insurer will probably say that it has to go to their recommended repairers. NO IT DOESN'T. Get an estimate from Lexus. If the insurers still want to write it off, Lexus will give you an accurate cost of replacement for a car of similar spec, mileage, condition, etc. Let them argue with Lexus as to a value (if the salesman thinks a sale might be in the offing, he'll be on your side). If the accident was the 3rd party's fault, then you should be recompensed to the situation you were in before the accident, shouldn't cost you a penny. If the accident was your fault, we'll have to have a rethink. Best of luck, Graham.
    1 point
  13. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201605244245868?search-target=usedcars&make=lexus&model=ls_400&postcode=ct149te&radius=1500&page=1&sort=pricedesc&onesearchad=new%2Cnearlynew%2Cused&logcode=p&adPos=1
    1 point
  14. you bought the lexus to be different on the road if you wanted to blend in you should of bought a bmw
    1 point
  15. Oh I drive backwards a lot. Once I get to my destination I reverse all the way back home again. Keeps the odometer reading low!
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...