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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2017 in all areas

  1. Well took it out for a run to Scotland last weekend for it's first real drive and it was all as expected - no drama and nice and smooth. Averaged about 27mpg which is fine, about the same as my old LS400 and not much different to my 450h. Was mostly in waft mode but did have some fun overtaking moments on the lovely A75 (was driving to Portpatrick right on the southern tip of Scotland). Goes like a train when you want it to. Car came back filthy and it's been sitting on the drive like that all week but today felt almost spring-like so I gave it its first good wash and even a little wax polish. Paintwork on this is immaculate. I don't know what they do differently but compared to the 450h (10 years old and same mileage as the 430) this 12 year old paintwork really holds together well. So, an excuse for some more pics My youngest working hard on the 450h. He charged me £1 per alloy, which I think is competitive, so I'll keep him on.
    3 points
  2. I know these are not everyone's taste but I always felt, from the rear at least there was too much black plastic at the bottom. I think the silver trim breaks it up and also gives it a slightly cleaner look. It was a bit more effort to fit than lexus said it would be as you need to loosely fit and mark where holes will be, then remove existing black plastic under tray. Once off you drill elongated holes and fasten new trim loosely to it with the provided bolts. You then refit your original under tray with new trim loosely attached as you have to tighten two bolts which will be under the new trim. Once the original trim is all bolted back up you offer new trim up to bumper with the 3m tape strip that adheres to existing bumper along its top edge then tighten four bolts to keep everything nice and tight. its not a difficult job but does require a little bit of thought and care. anyway, I'm pleased with the result. I may consider the front underun at a later date although this cost nearly £500 and I'm not so concerned about the front look of the vehicle as this looks ok. carl
    2 points
  3. I'm not keen on modified cars, but.....I quite like this. Show us some tasteful mods.
    2 points
  4. ?? It's my money David. Not sure where you think I've wasted it?
    2 points
  5. Nah. The thing is you see with the 335i (mine especially) is that it wouldn't complete a lap of even a Supermarket car park before jumping into limp home mode ;-) I think someone did this on Forza ;-)
    2 points
  6. That is a nice looking car, but, in my humble opinion, the wheels are too big and I am not a fan of the way they disappear into the arches. On that note, how do the front wheels steer without hitting the arches?
    2 points
  7. Couple years ago when i start my work in laboratory in the free time i decided to make a car wax. I have some ingredients so why not ;) Natural waxes and first attempts If you want to start make your own wax you need little componets. In my opinion just try to start with 30% of natural wax and 70% of turpentine/naphta. In this case you don't have hockey puck :D In laboratory i have also other ingrediens like dimethylsiloxane , teflon form dupont, kaolin for filler scratch etc. Preparing its not complicated i melt wax on electrical cook After add filler I made couple of version for my bimmer, i am not remember which one goes on my paint Colour depth was amazing ! Durability if i good remember couple mounths. Some more photos and my experiments I think this effect was the best And my last car wax for lex Also waxed my mom asterix
    2 points
  8. These are what you should see, the first is in the locked position the last is in the released position and the middle one is the catch on the cover. Check it's not damaged and that the latches are free.
    2 points
  9. When Admiral customers stop adding custom wheels to their 'unmodified' super saloons, which has flooded the market with isf wheels 😉, they will have to barter with 🐀, or pay Lexus £1,400.
    2 points
  10. Probably going to be a little more popular now that tax bands have changed. It won't be as expensive to tax and comes fully loaded
    2 points
  11. I posted this a while back but I forgot to post in this section. I've added a few photos at the bottom as well. First off, I am not a mechanic so my terminology may annoy some of you! I did this as i was getting a lack of power at about 2500revs mainly in higher gears. It has improved dramatically. Fuel efficiency seems to have improved but only slightly so I can't say for sure. For this guide, I refer to right and left as you stand at the front of the vehicle looking into the engine. I know this is not the norm so apologies if confusing. Front refers to the front of the car as standard. Also, the elec. connectors are the biggest pain in the &%$£. Trying to squeeze the clip and pull at the same time is so difficult as they are usually well stuck in place being nine years old! Don’t give up! Job time – 10 hours over two days (I didn’t have a guide so hopefully you will do it faster – it would take me about 6 hours if I did it again) Set up tools, bench, laptop, etc. (1 hour) Disassembly (5 hours) Cleaning (2 hours) Reassembly (2 hours) Basic tools are required but just having a good socket set is very important. Not necessary to jack up vehicle but would help. I drove the front wheels up on 3inch blocks. This is the order I did it in, you may want to do it a little differently. I include headings for the most part but in general this order worked well. Here we go!... Covers: Remove primary engine cover Remove RH engine cover Remove LH engine cover Remove front engine cover Remove under engine covers (x2) Battery: Disconnect battery terminals Remove battery horizontal support brace Disconnect the electrical connection on the LH side of the battery cover Remove battery cover Remove battery Remove base cover of battery Remove battery vertical support brace Remove control module under battery (x3 bolts – long one goes on RH side) Disconnect 3 elec. connectors on control module Remove bottom battery case (x3 bolts) EGR: Remove EGR pipe and gaskets Disconnect EGR elec. connector Remove EGR valve Radiator: Open radiator cap and drain ***** (have bucket ready to take ~5 litres) Drain fluid Remove air intake duct above radiator Disconnect inlet and outlet pipes of radiator fluid reservoir tank Remove reservoir tank Various: Disconnect fuse box wire harness clips (x2) Disconnect common rail front end elec. connector Disconnect common rail fuel supply hose Disconnect common rail rear end elec. connector Remove wire harness support bolts (x2) Various: Disconnect EGR valve rear end elec. connector Remove five wire harness clips (red arrows) Remove harness support (green arrow) Remove sponge adjacent to EGR valve Various: Remove bolts (x3) on water pipe (blue arrow) below EGR assembly Remove clip at front end of pipe and slide hose off Remove vacuum hose (small) from water pipe (underneath) Remove elec. connector under vacuum hose & remove clip also (hard to see but you’ll know it has to be disconnected) Push hose assembly out of the way – towards battery area (no need to fully disconnect) Air Flow (Throttle) Assembly:- Disconnect three elec. connectors on air flow unit Remove bolt on air flow unit Common Rail:- Remove common rail bolt (x2) Remove common rail fuel lines Protect (tissue) the common rail connectors & ports Remove common rail and keep clean Inlet Manifold: Disconnect vacuum hose from inlet manifold Remove inlet manifold upper stay bolt (it’s a vertical support that can be hard to see) Remove air flow pipe to inlet manifold (1 clip also) (difficult to remove for me but keep twisting and pulling – there is a lip to overcome) Loosen inlet manifold lower stay nut (very difficult to access – hard to even see. This was the most awkward part of the whole job. You should really disconnect for easier access but it would be impossible to get it back on – loosening and pushing it aside was fine for me) See diagram below. Remove bolts (~x9) on intake manifold Remove intake manifold Cleaning: Clean inlet manifold – I used a power hose, carburettor cleaner, screwdriver for scraping & kitchen paper. Clean inlet ports – as above but I used a hoover continuously to prevent as much carbon as possible entering the valves/cylinders Reinstall in reverse – much easier than disassembly! Prime the fuel system. Photos: Photo 1 - Inlet ports exposed after inlet manifold clean. Of the four ports showing, the first has been cleaned mostly, the second is as found, and the third and fourth have some cleaning done. Highly recommend using a hoover if scraping any carbon from here. Otherwise just coat with carburetor cleaner and wipe away with a cloth. Photo 2 - Inlet manifold removed. Condition hard to see but constriction increases further into the ports. Photo 3 - Inlet ports - two untouched and two partially cleared.
    1 point
  12. I would like to share with you with my history with lex is220d. When i bought him ON consumtion was on 12+ litres. Car doesn't have full power. Smoke was terrible and it was shame to drive this car. Where is ecology ? I cannot find them. Techstrem did not show any problems. So my diagnostics based on live data and reference data from techdoc. First of all i wanted to get rid of this smoke from dpf and tried to use but there was no effect. I also cleaned egr And replace new air filter After that for couple days was improvement with power, but car still smoke cuz of this dpf. So i decide to make a combo egr off dpf off and remap. DENSO ECU was made by MagPro X17 After egr off (only in ECU) dpf off car show on dyno So i decided to don't make a chip tuning and looking for a problem. After this mods fuel consumtion Dynamic city driving City calm driving Driving out of town Next step was mechanical blocking of egr I have also strange sound when i turn off engine So i changed evrv And problem with strange sound solved. After this i was another time on dyno I know that 2AD engines are weak and don't have 177hp and 400Nm. During dyno test i also watched live data and something was wrong with fuel preasure. So i decided to replace SCV valve. Cleaning SCV does not make sense, cuz piston blures. After this everyting city driving After this everyting i come back for my tuner and finally made remap Also changed oil engine for millers ee, and engine began to work quietly Couple days ago i also replace air filter for K&N I want also to clean my intake manifold and after that maybe i will go another time to dyno. All the time i modifies my fuel I also made a test in my laboratory with AR6900 and it show to me that this product should work. Serial car is tragic, engineers of toyota showed me how to not make diesel engines. My engine is new , replaced in lexus, mileage about 55k km. During year i made about 13k km. After my mods driving is a pleasure not shame and torture.
    1 point
  13. After introducing myself a couple of weeks ago I've got round to taking some pictures. It's just a stock 430 so nothing we've not seen before, but I like to look at member's pics and I'm sure I'm not alone . It's a 2005 with 83K on the clock. It's in really nice condition for its age. Almost looks like new from certain angles, and certainly handles and drives like one. Lexus knew how to make a solid long lasting luxury car. This is my third Lexus - follows a LS400 MKIV (sold a while ago) and a GS450h (which I still have but now fully under control of my other half). Have a few things lined up to get it fully sorted. It is due the timing belt change, which I'll probably get done via local Lexus dealer (unless anyone can recommend a good indy in Merseyside/Lancashire area). Missing a door handle cover on driver side passenger door, which seems fairly common on these. Looking at installing a Vaistech to hook up some storage for my music collection. Am also still waiting for DVLA to return the V5C so I can register my private plate. Typical DVLA turnaround time on these... Off to Scotland in it this weekend for a bit of a mini road trip and its first proper run. Boys looking forward to stretching out in the back and dad looking forward to stretching out in the front .
    1 point
  14. Thanks John! I've never seen a red LS in person in the UK but good to know they exist .
    1 point
  15. For Paul https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=red+ls+400&hl=en&gl=uk&authuser=0&tbm=isch&imgil=Q_OYi9vULKwtAM%3A%3Bq7H129UYSXLDAM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.vehiclehistory.com%252Fvehicle-red-color%252Flexus%252Fls-400%252F1991&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Q_OYi9vULKwtAM%3A%2Cq7H129UYSXLDAM%2C_&usg=__CITZyNLhQp16sT2qtY0H700H8vI%3D&biw=1319&bih=610&ved=0ahUKEwjEgtDlvJrSAhXGWBQKHdLfA6wQyjcIKQ&ei=Ma2oWISmDMaxUdK_j-AK#imgrc=Q_OYi9vULKwtAM: Regards John
    1 point
  16. Sorry Peter, the ball is in my court. I need to email the owner of the Forum with a request that he considers my suggestion. I had hoped that he might have caught wind by now and adopted the suggestion, but seems that he is not currently aware. I will deal with it tomorrow.Thanks for the reminder. Regards John
    1 point
  17. Laid all the cabling today and got the power sorted. I fuse tapped in the end, but haven't put the plastic cover back on. May purchase an additional one, and then cut it up. Could possibly be kicked by passengers, also don't want moisture in the fuse box. Tomorrow, will mount the camera. Have taken a few pics, and may give it a write up (There are not any tutorials for a front and rear cam, on the Is300h) Thanks for the encouragement and tips guys!
    1 point
  18. E class 220 cdi Auto Estate Elegance Jan 2003 215,000 miles 50mpg on any journey over 50 miles.The best and most financially economical car I have owned, although the GS450 h is catching it up fast. !! Comparisons are worthless however as it is chalk and cheese. Both cars are oustandingly good at what they are good at. Regards John
    1 point
  19. Both cars look wonderful. You are a very lucky boy Paul. Enjoy. No blue in the family then?? Regards John
    1 point
  20. Try mer. I used to have a red car that the colour faded on, Mer bought the colour right back
    1 point
  21. Not a bad price fitted.... depending if you're not fussy over any specific pads & discs. From memory I think Lexus starts at £295 if your IS is + 5 years old. If your thinking of getting it done might be worth asking them to strip the Cali pets and grease the pins for what little extra it would cost.... a good investment for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC
    1 point
  22. Chris NEVER NEVER NEVER Mellow into Retirement ...... it's a potential killer .. YOU really must continue being super active ....... I'm 67 and 18 months ago started a completely new, and new to me business, and it's keeping me brilliantly busy and I'm always thinking about another Lexus or several to add to my " stable " of cars Malc
    1 point
  23. The owners name is don. Hes on facebook a lot. Nice bloke. He wanted my white ls400 but i sold it before he had a chance to get down. I was thinking of getting his as a stop gap. I think the winning buyer didn't materialise
    1 point
  24. HI and welcome to this great forum , your car looks in really good condition and I like that colour .The IS is comfortable ,very ,compared to the MX5 !! , I am a MX5 fan and I have a Mk 3.5 as well as the Lexus ,I have been driving them for the last 16 years Best value for money fun car on the planet ,enjoy your new Lexus Dave
    1 point
  25. This is odd because I was told specifically by my dealer that the DPF is covered? A call to the warranty company to confirm might be in order I think. Although I have found inconsistencies between dealers with regards to the warranty before. When I first went to Lexus Reading, I was told the car needed a full Lexus history to qualify for a warranty, which is obviously not true. Yep, when I had my DMF changed, I paid for a new clutch to be fitted at the same time. Not cheap, but as it turns out I was very glad I had the dealer supply it because there was a problem that needed it taking back out, and there was no fuss about who was liable. My dealer will wash and vac any car that comes in, regardless of why it is there. I took it in for them to look at the stereo one day and it came back cleaned.
    1 point
  26. post update. Tried this on my GS450h and initially didnt work. However you MUST disconnect the battery for it to boot succesfully. RTFM!
    1 point
  27. That's a smart looking kit. Quite subtle which is a good thing.
    1 point
  28. I could see me in a GS-F in a couple of years.
    1 point
  29. Here's the details of my weekend road trip, can't recommend it enough if you ever get the opportunity. Day one: First good road was the a470 from merthyr Tydfil to rhyadar via breacon, quite busy on a weekend but fast and great views as you go over the beacons. I got a bit lost trying to find the elan valley but all the roads around there are awesome so it wasn't really a problem. Eventually found the route around the dams which is a great road in its own right, shame it was snowing so had to slow the pace a bit. Got to test the suspension travel in the bumpy car park there too! Then it was back on the a470 to Newtown and then to the excellent Checkers in Montgomery.
    1 point
  30. Thanks for the welcomes, i will post some pics in the next few days when i can get out of the car and into the house for the camera.
    1 point
  31. When i had my Ls and the boot leaked i sourced a seal from these guys... http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/ very helpful guys. Would have been a thread on it years ago . If you cant match a seal from the pictures they will match it from a sample you send.
    1 point
  32. I don't believe that lorry driver's tale. If it were true then the cost of shipping and re-refining this "sludge" then shipping back would have made the cost more expensive than premium branded fuel by a long way! (unless of course it was the re-refinement of byproduct he was talking about and I don't know the chemistry involved to be able to comment further on that). There were issues a decade ago and I recall that many vehicles also suffered oxygen sensor failures around this time due to poor fuel causing (somehow) carbon build up on the sensors. This, in turn, affected the fuel/air mixtures and some engines were damaged. Most owners affected seemed to get the sensor failure (engine warning) light flagged up very quickly and there was a lot of debate to the causes at the time but general consensus from both manufacturers and garages was poor supermarket fuels. Many of these cars were new-ish at the time, so the issue was taken as credible and investigations were ordered into supermarket fuels. However (there is one) a little perspective is also a wonderful thing. Many cars were far from new, or at least were high mileage. Good practice seems to be to renew oxygen sensors between 50 and 100K miles on all vehicles to ensure efficiency is maintained and better mpg/lower emissions. Many cars having issues were clearly higher mileage and had probably not been properly maintained so were more susceptible to these issues causing serious running problems. How widespread the issues actually were, I don't know, save to say no-one that I knew suffered any ills from using Tesco or Morrison supermarket fuels at that time. They may all come from the same refinery, but additives do vary, and cleaner burning fuels one would think are better for the health of your engine, hence I only put one tank in 4 or 5 in from supermarket petrol stations.
    1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. This is the exact reason why I've ordered one for the wife. Looked at the usual Diesel BMW, Audi, Mercs, but decided to stick to the IS200t. It's reliable, well built, rare, petrol with auto, all the toys you'd ever need with an awesome look. 😎
    1 point
  35. More modern F styling, lovely seats, funky dials etc. but as a driving machine....no better performance for the extra £20k (currently). Oh and you get a discerning analogue clock rather than our 1990's digital.
    1 point
  36. An appreciating modern classic with several sets of spare wheels.
    1 point
  37. Linky for you John: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121956341268?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT No smell off this one and it seems pretty tough and durable too. Fits like a glove. Easily as good as the Lexus one at much less cost.
    1 point
  38. I had one recently as a service loan car, thought it was a good package with accessible performance and pretty good handling. It looked great in black with black semi gloss wheels, would have preferred anthracite myself but that's nitpicking. For someone who doesn't want the hybrid / diesel route in a four cylinder car I personally believe from the driving pleasure perspective this is a good bet, who else does petrol rear wheel drive now with this quality ? Some may say a manual gearbox option would appeal I'm not so sure, especially with today's traffic density. Big Rat
    1 point
  39. Ronaldo Hi to you and good luck with the search for a white 'F', I have since joining the this club done nothing but exalted the merits of white 'F's. I think they look, and just my opinion you understand the colour to have, there are far to many blacks and greys and especially silver ones. There are some on here that will tell you otherwise but stick to your guns, one will turn up I'm sure. Big Rat
    1 point
  40. Hope you didn't pay for that. I believe they sell it for £300 and it costs £25 in the trade Doesn't work and good luck on the guarantee! Watch how many excuses they make when you say it doesn't work "Sorry sir, you weren't washing the car with the dedicated £50 a bottle, galactic space foam gold lined super shampoo" "Oh and you can't visit a hand car wash" "Or even a automatic car wash" "Actually, you shouldn't be washing your car once its been applied" "You took it off by looking at it" "You shouldn't have parked your car under a tree" "You shouldn't park your car outside" "In fact, you should always keep your car covered with our £500 GardX Bomb Protection car cover with its PTFE, non stick coating and premium materials blended from Sumatran Striped Rabbit fur, Lion's mane and Kevlar" "The fact of the matter is sir, that GardX is designed to protect your car when stationary, hence, should not be driven after application - it's the main thing our suppliers forget to tell you - we're extremely sorry for the inconvenience. However, we will make things right and as a goodwill gesture, give you the royal middle finger"
    1 point
  41. If you pull back the carpet on the front passenger side transmission tunnel you will be able to see the SRS ECU which will have yellow coloured plugs, the problem is it is mounted below the ashtray and is surrounded by a tubular steel framework making removal difficult. A common cause of the warning light illuminating is a dodgy connector under the driver's seat so check under there (yellow plugs again) or the clock spring under the steering wheel. Getting the fault codes confirmed is a must before diving in and if this does point to the ECU I would obtain a replacement ECU then remove the plugs from the one already fitted ( disconnect the car battery negative and leave at least 30 minutes to ensure back up system is discharged for safety before touching the airbag ECU) then plug in the replacement just letting it hang down and see if the light goes out now. If it does then go ahead and fit it properly if it doesn't then you have saved removing a good ECU and the fault lies elsewhere.
    1 point
  42. I know I shouldn't say this but if I were you I'd keep the 430...
    1 point
  43. Does it make the sound when taking off first thing on a morning or all the time? If its just first thing on a morning, its completely normal and caused by a combination of rain and cold weather causing the brake discs to rust and therefore stick. They release with a little bang. It'll only stick completely if left over a long period of time so if you go on holiday, keep the parking brake off.
    1 point
  44. I think this from the ACEA specs web site is relevant. All mainstream oil available these days is catalyst compatible, so A and C below are pretty much interchangeable and indeed most eg A3 oil is also C3. I've added some emphases! There are ACEA specifications for passenges car motor oils (the A/B class), for catalyst compatible motor oils (the C class) and for heavy duty diesel engine oils (the E class). The classes are further divided into categories to meet the requirements of different engines. The A/B class's A5/B5 oils have lower HTHS viscosities, which means that they provide better fuel economy but they may not provide adequate protection in engines that are not designed for them. ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4 on the other hand require oils with higher HTHS viscosities that may not provide as good fuel economy as an A5/B5 oil but may offer better engine protection in certain engine designs. The categories within the C class are divided along SAPS limits and along HTHS viscosities. C1 and C4 are low-SAPS oils, while C2 and C3 are mid-SAPS oils. On the other hand C1 and C2 oils have lower HTHS viscosities, while C3 and C4 oils have higher HTHS viscosities. The C5 category that has been newly introduced in the ACEA 2016 sequences has even lower limit for HTHS vicsosity. In order for an oil to meet this specification it must be a mid-SAPS oil and its HTHS viscosity has to be between 2.6 and 2.9 mPa*s. Depends on your priorities - fuel economy or engine protection. But I think any differences are very marginal.
    1 point
  45. Attached is the following is the original mail segment. I do 20k miles a year.
    1 point
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