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Really came down last night and I left it faced uphill. Dry as a bone I've found the noise too. It's coming from the trim around the tailgate lift, the same area the water was making an appearance. Armed with felt pads and spray grease I'll sort that one this afternoon...

Finally got around to looking at these.- the tilt function when reversing worked well when I bought the car but over time it has reduced to the point where it just twitched when moving into reverse. I planned to have a look at it months ago but just never got round to doing it. I done it today and took pictures of each step. It took half an hour for the first mirror and 20 minutes for the second so not a time consuming job. I needed to replace two worn plastic motor worm gear cogs which had partly stripped and I gave the mirrors a very good clean inside and out. Re-greased and oiled. They had accumulated a lot of dirt over the years and I don't think anyone had been in them since it rolled off the production line so it was a well worthwhile job. They are now working spot on and are holding their memory positions when starting the car. I could not get them to stop working after testing them for about 10 minutes so am happy and confident they are now fixed. I think the winter has a big effect on them when they are frozen up - they will automatically try to set themselves to the user position and also will try to move when reversing which puts a strain on the motors making them skip and strip teeth. Anyway - what I have done below worked for me - I have two good motor units left spare which I sourced which you can use the plastic work gear from or the units themselves if anyone does this and finds they need them. Pictures below are in sequence marked from picture 1 to 14. I have never managed to fit them into a post with instructions against them so the instruction is on the picture itself.

I posted an article about three months ago regarding the corrosion of the exhaust flange( cat to pipe) and past experience with my Mark 1 and prevention on the Mark 4 with Rust-oleum hard hat 750 degree centigrade spray paint Well since the application I have done a thousand miles and 500 of that was 5 hours non stop mainly motorway driving. As can be seen in the photos the paint that as been sprayed on the surrounding areas of the mild steel flange is starting to peel off,whereas the paint that was applied with a brush on the flange itself is still intact and there is still a unbroken paint surface there. The rest of the winter as yet to pass and I will monitor the condition of the paint on the flange area with an up to date report when there is any change. I have posted some pics of the condition of the Mark 1 flanges and subsequent weld botch that were done in 2012 when the car was 22 years old with 180k on the clock.

Little bit of trim wrapping today, still got dash n centre console bits to do, but work n family commitments are hindering me (damned pesky children 😂) Ps will have to strip and re wrap passenger side as carbon effect is going opposite direction to other side and my OCD is killing me 😆

Yes. The premier comes with adaptive high beams which changes the pattern of the beam to stop blinding oncoming traffic The other grades come with auto high beam which just dips and undips

i've had it report speed limits in Kph god knows where that came from

I had the local Lexus garage do it. They did call me during the day to say they couldn’t move the bolts and would have to put heat or burn but heating only did the job thank goodness

Before and after alignment, on a Hunter Hawkeye

Yeah the traffic sign recognition is hopeless. I sometimes get it telling me the limit is 120!

Absolutely, I forgot to mention that too. For some reason, using the shifters works much better when combining sport and shift mode together. When in normal mode and just pulling down on '-' paddle, I found it behaved differently with regards to accelerative force and mostly just served to engine brake. As you rightly say, it's a shame this topic isn't discussed more in the manual, and that is a reason people probably don't try them out enough in the different modes. I would definitely miss this feature if it wasn't there now having used it a lot with great results, which says a lot! I think the shifters do get a lot of flack from people who have only tried using them in normal auto mode, instead of sport and shift mode together, which is a real shame. Most of the positive comments come from those that used them properly in sport and shift mode together, along with the active sound control. And yes, car reviewers also too often make this mistake, and only try and in normal mode, and say they don't do much. Even the dealership I found wasn't too knowledgeable about how they worked and didn't even realise that the ASC change up and down with the shifts until I showed them, plonkers! Lexus just needs to raise more awareness about how to use them, and educate the dealerships more about them.

I had on my GS and now on RX, far better than simple cruise control, the car may slow down till complete stop.

Gimmick just like auto lights on makes other motorists think you are flashing them. On the lighter side buy a cheap car hire a chauffeur he'll do it all for you

Such a lovely condition great colour and sounds amazing, love it!

And if you want to get the best out of the "manual" put the gear lever in S and the dial in Sport. It's not clear in the user manual but from what I gathered when in D the "gears" are for controlling speed (engine braking - not to behave like a manual box all the way up and down the "gears") and when in S they then mimic manual 6 speed. I've tried all the combinations and found same as above - they do work in S and it's very noticable how the revs are controlled - the car will overide in the end but it does in any modern traditional auto with manual paddles. The journos that say they are useless I don't think read the manual or understand the different combinations. That said after having a play to see what they did I don't really use them myself other than for engine braking on long descents.

Here's a good blog from Lexus explaining how paddle shifters work on eCVT hybrids https://blog.lexus.co.uk/what-do-lexus-paddle-shift-switches-do/ There is a lot of misinformation in general about manual shift mode in a Lexus hybrid. They are indeed intended to try and mimic a manual 6 speed auto trans, but work a little bit differently. Each shift range selects a range of gear ratios for the car to work in (an eCVT has infinite gear ratios), and each shift range (1-6) significantly changes the amount of accelerative and breaking force generated. Despite what a lot of people say, they do work, and you can have quite a bit of fun with them once you get used to how they operate. For example, in my IS300h 2017 model, in sport and manual shift mode, one can get off the line much quicker when in S1, and when shifting with active sound control enabled, the sound even changes as you shift up and down shift, which is really nice. Also, in manual shift mode, you take a lot of the delay out of the transmission as the computer doesn't have to spend as much time figuring out the best gear ratio range to be in, which is also nice, just put your foot down and you will see the delay has mostly gone. And lastly, when going down long hills, the engine breaking really helps take wear and tear off the break pads. Note however once again, manual shift mode DOES NOT INCREASE REGEN, in that people are correct. If you are however quick enough to put the car in S6 when slowing down, that will be comparable as it's the shift mode with least amount of engine breaking force. One good tip is that by holding down the '+' paddle, you can jump all the way up to S6 from any gear, and that feature is exactly intended to help get the best regen in manual mode, so they thought of that too, just a shame some of this isn't mentioned in the manual. For the doubters, who are still not convinced, just try putting the car into S6 on the motorway, and see how much accelerative force you have at high speeds, not much I can guarantee you, similar to a real 6 speed auto trans. Also, while travelling at a fairly high speed, try shifting down the range from S6, and you will be really surprised at how much engine breaking kicks in. I know this is a lengthy reply, but I keep seeing many posts with people talking utter bollocks about this, saying how they don't work, or do very little and clearly they don't understand what's going on or how to use and get the best from them. Hope that clears up some confusion and doubts 🙂

Good to hear results Richard - nice work!

That is what I have fitted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005UCVGK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (main beam - do not recommend as it is pink-ish not really matching) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00OGS4K30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I798TKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I drive an 08 so has the eDiff rather than a mechanical LSD, I have owned a lot of performance cars over the years and personally believe the LSDs are hype and you will only notice negligible gains on track, on the road the eDiff just feels like a LSD, it doesn't just spin the inside wheel like it does on a typical open diff and will leave fat 11's the length of you street if thats your thing. good luck on your search

... as in WeatherProofs. On my wife's RX - really good.

hi herbi the door lock sets the alarm .thanking you for your reply dave very best wishes

Nokian's

You missed my point. I paid premium for a Lexus. Toyota has the same level of reliability with much lower cost. Of course I would expect that every single detail in a Lexus was perfect. I wouldn't care much if the same happened in a Toyota as my standards would be lower. 😉

Agree with Linas on most of this, except that LED bulbs are useless in the foglights and headlights - they just don't project enough light to do anything. LEDs are fine for the parking lights because you are not trying to illuminate the surroundings, just look bright from outside the car. Are the HIDs original (ie does the car have self levelling)?. If so I don't think you can fit anything except HID bulbs. Please note the 'names' of the different lights - the outer lights (the HIDs) are the dipped beams. The inner ones (the blue-ish ones in the pic) are the main beams. That lampholder also contains the parking light bulbs. (Note - parking lights - only for use alone when parked!) The 'bottom' lights which Noo bie calls 'spot' lights are fog lights and should only be used in case of seriously reduced visibility (see Highway code rule 226 and Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations 27)

Standard HIDS are 4300k. Assuming yours are standard you might have issues matching the colour. LEDs are usually 5500-6000k, halogens are usually 3200k.... However, Kelvins (K) are kind of misleading - halogens will always tend to be yellowish (unless some funky blue), LEDs (especially cheaper ones tends to be blue-ish)... and HIDs with 4300K will be more white then halogens claiming to be 5300K... I mean even for same K rating you not going to have exact match between different type of bulbs. From experience any good quality HIDs ~5500-6000K will match any good quality LEDs around same rating - Because they simply going to be pure white (which is what you ideally want - yellow or blue indicates poor quality or "vintage" technology). So HID for dipped, LED for side lights, LED for fog lights.... but I personally have not found any cure for main beam - need to find powerful enough LED bulb I guess. Here is old thread for comparison... my dipped + side lights matches, but main (5300k halogen) looks pink-ish. I am not that bothered about main beam or fogs to be honest..

Having driven both they are very different machines. Off the mark the 200T is a little frustrating to move off quickly due to a lag. Turbo lag then on is not an issue, it’s the same in my Audi S3 with the massively hyped dual clutch gearbox. The 8 speed is generally very good. Power far superior and it gets 500 miles from a tank doing 70-75mph on the motorway. There is also the absence of the battery charging noise or CVT whine but I would say the Hybrid is overall a more relaxed drive but less fun.

Is no one shocked he finds level 3 hot. In mine level 3 is like every other cars level 1?

bruno your lucky if your seat heaters are really good, i have had 2 IS300h's and neither of them had good seat heaters the CT i had could cook you they where so hot. i know this isn't in your original post but if the heaters go to the next lower heat setting too quickly for you if you press and hold both heating buttons at the same time you will hear a beep confirming the timer has been turned off the heater will then stay on the setting you have set the seat at.

The 200t is certainly the more sporty offering. I think the tax was quite a chunk more than the IS300h is. The 200t's are rare though and therefore command a little bit of a premium. Whilst driving, the turbo lag is minor, its only from a standstill where it takes a bit to get going but its not much different to the IS300h. Drive both, see what you think.

Well, back from Lexus after having the tuned damper installed. I have to agree with Mikael, this fix is amazing. Not only are the vibrations gone, the driveline is so much more silent at all speeds. They didn't manage to fix the bluetooth/phone issue though. New infotainment "brain" is on order. Still, I'm a very happy camper now! -Tore

Be aware £500 tax.