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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. PS Do check the net on this. Live data also shows MAF voltage patterns on idle and revving up which help in diagnosis.
    2 points
  3. Update after a few weeks. Everything lovely and dry. Not a drop that I can see (or feel).
    2 points
  4. I've generally been lucky with my cars. Never really had any total dogs. The absolute reliability and 'guts' of my numerous Japanese cars mean I'm going to have to be pretty harsh on the two I've chosen as my worst. MG ZT Cdti 2004. Decent looking, well appointed and actually very reliable. However the build quality was indicative of a company struggling big time. How I never picked up on it during the test drive I don't know, but the interior rattles, buzzes and creaks drove me up the wall. At one point the entire dashboard resonated with the throttle. Also had seemingly incurable squealing brakes. Original pads and discs wouldn't resolve. A real shame as this car had quite a bit going for it. Divorce was after just 2 years. BMW 523i- 2009. My current and quite a staggering choice as a 'worst car'. However nice, however well built, however prestige, however comfortable it is inside, I've spent some serious money on that car just keeping it afloat. I've actually worked out its chomped through £4000 in repairs in 4 years. That outside of consumables such as discs, pads etc!! We're talking nearly £6 grand over 4 years on servicing and repairs. Funnily enough its actually been pretty reliable and only once left me stranded. Someone on the BMW5 forum did say BMW ownership comes as a real shock to 'Honda' or 'Lexus' man. And he's not wrong...... The two best. Honda Accord Coupe V6 1999. Conservative soft coupe which sold by the bucketload in the USA but didn't really make an impression here. Didn't excel at anything obvious. Not quite as fast as a CLK320 or 406 V6 Coupe. Didn't handle quite as well. Maybe not as pretty looking either. However this thing had balls of steel. Reliability was immense and quality of engineering miles ahead of the Germans. AutoExpress put this car miles behind the two previously mentioned cars as a brand new buy. However...I reckon from 4-5 years old as a second hand car the Honda would have absolutely destroyed the other two as a value for money buy. The CLK would have been crying out for sensors here and there, the Frenchie would have been starting to creak, rattle and squeak. Never burned a drop of oil, never missed a beat. Used to get loads of compliments from those in the know. Will I ever own something as reliable as this? Opel Monza 3.0E 1983. Another soft coupe. Bought with around 100k on the clock in 1994 this old beast was starting to show major signs of wear. Rust spots were appearing, there were a few minor oil and water leaks, the heating system was iffy. And yet....it was the Millennium Falcon of cars. Mainly due to a still potent straight six 3 litre engine which could propel this car with ease past 100mph and beyond. Was capable of embarrassing hot hatches and leaving even some turbo charged boy racer mobiles behind. It had its hissy fits, misfires from cold and once I had to give the dashboard a huge thump with my right first to bring the whole thing to life. Must have covered around 30,000 miles in this car before the suspension mounts died and the car was a write off. The Ford 2.8i V6 engine of the time often got the plaudits, but the GM 3.0i Straight six was a far better engine. Was damn comfortable too.
    1 point
  5. Yep used Chris Knott for a few years earlier. And I also claimed through them on the IS once. It was all very smooth
    1 point
  6. I have never been that snappy a dresser Phil;the sock might have been suitable !
    1 point
  7. Takes a little practice. You would have LOVED the Citroen DS brake. It was a button (that opened a hydraulic valve) that required very little pressure. In summer, I drove barefoot, braking the car with my big toe!
    1 point
  8. If you've checked the pressures, when cold and all is correct, the pressures are as suggested on the door pillar label, then I'd suggest resetting the TPMS using the button on the lower dash panel.
    1 point
  9. Yes...but don't forget you are now Not going to slow down if you come up behind a slower vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this!! But it was a close call!!! So ACC all the time for me now. paul m
    1 point
  10. I like adaptive cruise and have used it a lot on M-Way and A roads. but I have come across a problem with it. Where do you put your right foot? if you leave it flat on the floor you are away from the brake and accelerator if you need to restore manual control. It is only a little way but it could be an essential split second. The alternative is to keep your right heel on the floor and your foot sort of hovering in position near the pedals ready for action which soon becomes uncomfortable. This problem isn't so bad with light traffic but in heavy traffic where the control is quite active I find it a bit more worrisome. Maybe it is just me being ultra sensitive about leaving control of the car to the unseen hand or foot! Another point is that we might assume the adaptive cruise gives better fuel economy but I am not convinced this is the case. In adaptive cruise there are constant small adjustments and readjustments to settings that are simply not made by the driver in manual mode. The economy is therefore good but I find I can do better without the cruise control on.
    1 point
  11. well I've fixed mine and returning here to post how! I've tested the resistance on the fuel pressure sensor ( on the fuel rail ) and it was fine and within spec, the problem I had was the pressure discharge valve/ suction control valve - the thing that lives on the back of high pressure pump attached by allen keys- the values that I had for resistance didn't match what I was told is the correct readings, however, even the replacement valve had the same 'incorrect' readings, so maybe that changes based of the part code and pump used. removing the valve can be done easily with engine in, however, the replacement part that I sourced through a local diesel specialist was actually longer than the original, so re installation required undoing the engine mounts from below the car and jacking the engine up and giving it a wiggle to be able to reinstall the new one- fiddly but much easier than removing the whole engine to replace the pump! the reason it's now longer is that the original lexus part and pumps are actually discontinued from denso and to make things complicated, those valves are paired by part code to the fuelpump part codes, so you can't just take a valve out of a breaker car if the pump part code doesn't match. knowing the part codes (black sticker ontop of pump and an etched code on back of sensor) I was able to get a valve for use on the newer revised high pressure pump- even the specialist who sourced this suggested the pump would be required aswell... after a prime for 2 mins it fired straight up, so despite what lexus and specialists will tell you, you do not need to replace the pump at a cost of £1200. you need a £120 part. if you happen to have this problem remember that the pumps and valves must match, so people breaking them sell the whole pump assembly, which given this is a common problem I wouldn't suggest saving money there, especially when you think that it will require the engine to be removed to even get the damn pump off!
    1 point
  12. As he says, they made one of the best cars. Cannot argue with that. I would like to see this video redone with Jacob Rees-Mog, that would be less American😬
    1 point
  13. Sad I know, but I've just listened to the part of the trailer where they take off and it sounds like an RCF too.
    1 point
  14. If you've got 100k+ on the clock it most likely is the MAF. Cleaning doesn't fix a bad MAF, just cleans a dirty one. Live data will show if a MAF is bad. You'll seldom get a direct MAF code - it's normally misfiring codes that indicate MAF.
    1 point
  15. That'll be good PR for the car. Hope to see some footage you can see the black RCF in the trailer.
    1 point
  16. i had those concerns, but the dealer made a good point when i got my car, whats the point of having all those fancy features if you're planning to shut it down. I have a rfid blocking key wallet, which i use for each of my keys, works well.
    1 point
  17. i switched my parking sensors off as I can't stand the noise,are some of these aids even necessary though?what has happened to commonsense?and driving with due care and attention and using ones brain?drivers now reverse into others and the excuse is "oh my sensors didn't beep".Not a fan of technological change just for the sake of it,am all for it if it improves or enhances the driving experience ☺
    1 point
  18. my IS300h F sport is 18mths old on a 17 plate tbh i prefer the cruise control i had on my last Is300h (63 plate) over my new car
    1 point
  19. Are these older models or 2018? Maybe the technology is refined in later cars. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  20. todays road sign assistant blunder 80 MPH shown on dash as the maximum speed limit
    0 points
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