Leaderboard

I'm a time-served, fully qualified electrician by trade (although I've not actually worked as an electrician for many years) and to me yes, I know what needs to be done and when to do it, but it's more a case of 'accidents can happen' so you try to minimise that possibility. My four-year apprenticeship took place in Courtaulds factory here in Preston and it was brilliant in that they had their own power station on site with four turbine/generator sets, generating 6.6kV, with 12 substations around the site. One day I could be replacing a lightbulb in an office and the next I may be working in the power house on one of the gennys or even laying and jointing a new substation feeder cable. My point is, even though that car battery is only 12V, there is no way on earth that I would leave both terminals uncovered for a stray spanner or screwdriver to fall or roll down onto and possibly cause a short circuit.

Bristol have one of those 2-litre RXs for sale as well. They seem to be a bit of a curio, apparently 238bhp from a turbocharged '4'. I wonder if the turbo is sufficient to give it the torque that modern multivalve engines lack? It strikes me it would have to work hard to haul the RX around and that economy would suffer as a result. First week in with my new 64-reg Luxury, all very good so far. Doing everything I hoped it would and my first tankful worked out at 33.5mpg. Cleaned it up today and no nasty surprises, indeed I was impressed at how tidy it is.

As a new owner the first few fill ups were around 50 litres when the garage fuel pump cuts off and I was getting less than 300 miles to a tankfull. i read in the manual that the rx400h has a 65 litre tank, so, that meant there must be still 15 litres as a reserve. A quick calculation concluded I should have 88 miles left in the tank after the fuel low light comes on, I was always lead to believe most cars have about 50 miles left in the tank as a reserve. Thought I would try setting Trip B to zero when my fuel light came on, Trip A was showing how far I travelled on this tank of fuel. This is where it gets to be fun (no petrol can as backup), the first time I got to 27 miles and bottled out. When I filled the tank it took 57 litres......... the next time (this Monday just gone) I got to 54.7 miles from fuel light on and the tank took 58 litres and total of 357 miles from that previous tankfull. Oh btw, this is on standard Esso 95ron octane petrol. Don't think I'll try to go further without a backup can of petrol, my nerves won't take it lol. But at least I now know I can safely travel 50 miles after the fuel light comes on. So, has anybody gone further or anyone deliberately ran out with a backup can of petrol to see how far the car will go?

Reyland have confirmed they can do blue bells

Resolved the issue. Thanks to a member's advise who told me to check my wheel nuts. I checked my wheel nuts. And omg guess what? some were loose! So I tightened them all and the knocking is now gone. Thank god the tyre didn't come off.

That's right. Incidentally they don't work when covered in snow and ice. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Thanks again Herbie, it's looking increasingly likely I'm going to need a professional to take a look at this.

So..there is no way of knowing it is working or 'on' as such until you get close to an obstruction? can't understand why there would Not be a visual indicator of some sort even if it was just when beeping. Paul m.

You might have seen over in the new ES forum, rayaans posted the other day Bob Flavin's review of the ES300h. Well, tomorrow he should be uploading his review of the UX which will be worth a watch on his channel here.

Later model wheels are less prone to corrosion, only the original 2005, 16, 17 and especially 18 inch designs had issues (I believe something to do with aluminium primer Toyota used at the time, same applies to aluminium bonnet) . Obviously, if you kerb them they can still bubble-up around damaged areas over time. Refurbishment is good option as well, if the job done properly, wheels acid stripped and powder coated they will last forever - my understanding is that you don't like the style? I personally, think that later model year wheels are good option e.g. 2009+ or even mk3 e.g. They improve how the cat looks and makes it appear more modern... well at least in the eyes of the others. If you don't want to go for 18" because be sure ride quality will suffer, then there is an option of 17" what I call "Advance wheels": In the right colour, they look kind of "LF-A inspired" in terms of design: Going up from 17", there are options of IS-F and GS F-sport wheels which are 19", but I would not suggest fitting them unless you are planning to lower the car as well - on stock suspension height 19" looks little bit silly on IS250. IS-F fits with slightly different tyre sizes in the front, in rear they do fit but in theory you woudl need spacer (offset is like 10mm in), GS I believe are direct bolt on. So in short, I feel like the best bet are the Lexus wheels - obviously perfect fit, but as well kind of make sense in terms of design, improves car look without becoming key aspect of it (don't look too much out of place). In terms of aftermarket wheels - the only ones which I feel looks right are USA F-Sport wheels which are not Lexus, but sold via dealership, but in UK good luck finding them.

Surprisingly little weight difference. 140kg = a couple of kids/one adult passenger and a bit of luggage? Just looked on HowManyLeft - it says at the end of 2018 there were 22 F Sports, 48 Luxury models and three "S 2wd Auto". I can't immediately think of any other Lexus/Toyota that uses the same engine. I presume this model makes sense for markets where tax bands are based on engine size (back in the '80s there were a lot of JDM models available as 2-litre turbo that we got with bigger engines).

Yes, it is more than I would want to pay and I had the same thoughts about the engine size versus the size of the car but also thought it should/could be lighter in weight than the hybrid as it won't be carrying all those heavy batteries? As an interesting exercise, just for the fun of it, I'll start a new thread, see if we can find anyone on the forum who owns one 🙂

Here is a pic

Had similar issues on a mini. Was the throttle position sensor. Can you read the ecu fault codes. That will tell you what sensor is not working.

By the way had my first real day of giving the GS250 some right boot in sports mode. Usually spend most of my time queuing and driving in traffic in eco mode. Little else you can really do in Greater London. Have to say the car really shows another side to its personality when pushed. Was very impressed by the sound of that V6 when pushed past 3.5k rpm. Sounds bigger than it is to be honest. Also fairly impressed with the performance from what is seen as a brisk if not fast car. Even though the BHP isn't anything to boast about, I guess those 6 cylinders earn their corn when you need some overtaking power. Very impressed with this car so far. There's a certain smugness setting in that I had my my Accord V6 Coupe. And that's knowing that your ownership is (touching wood) going to be hassle free and in the long term relatively low cost.

Sadly, well out of my price range - and I'm not sure about just a 2.0 litre engine either. Having had an RX300 previously and feeling that that 3.0 litre engine was underpowered, I can't imagine what this would be like.

No, I already replied to the same question from you on Tuesday Matt. No problems whatsoever. They are just one light unit that replaces another light unit, nothing more, nothing less. The dealer who told you that LEDs could cause significant damage is talking complete rubbish. Thousands of people including myself have changed all their internal bulbs (and some have done external lights too) for LEDs without any sort of problems whatsoever. Even if one was to go full short circuit all that would happen would be a blown fuse, just like if an incandescent bulb were to go short circuit.

It took me nearly 3 hours with neighbour's help and couldn't undo bottom screw. Taking it to the garage nearest Monday if find time. But now its 100% confirmed it's the shock. The leak could not be seen until wheel was off, car is jacked as on the picture to have shock fully extended, it is wet on very top Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

You've done the removal and installation before and that didn't need any adjustment so there shouldn't be anything new to be done this time. You could disconnect the battery for a while and see if the resetting of learnt fuel trims will help. I think the original valve you have is dead. Possible that both the cheap buys are not up to scratch. If you had disturbed anything in the throttle body you'd probably have a no-starter with all three valves. In my experience a change of a very faulty iac or maf can make the engine run rich/high/even misfire for a good few seconds and then settle. Might even require putting it in gear. But I'd be careful with the idle rpm at 2,000.

Stop making me want to by stuff!! I've a new born baby to consider you know!! 😂🤣😂🤣

I once did well over 100 miles with the fuel light on, but that was on an experimental hypermiling run where I averaged 53.5 mpg (685 miles on one tank). I then managed to get 59.65 litres in there before the pump clicked and turned off 1st time, so in theory I could have gone another 60 miles.

Hi Dan I chose the F800 Pro as it had the ability to install a rear view cam as well as using parking mode that would shut down if battery power was low (lengthy parking time). I had it fitted by the RAC suppler who did a really good job at hiding all the cables and wiring in to parking mode. They gave me a demonstration once installed Only downside was I had to wait 2 weeks for an appointment Link to RAC Shop below https://www.racshop.co.uk/thinkware-f800-dash-cam.html Hope this helps Ray

For 2 piece alum bells with fixed rotors circa £1200, fully floating £1500, that for all 4 corners