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Personally I feel that sequential indicators are a good thing, if implemented properly - for example, if hazards come on bright then fade away but turn signals sweep then they convey more information than by colour alone. This would also help in the circumstance where three cars are parked on double yellow lines - does the middle one have its hazards on or a turn signal and is trying to pull out? In terms of peripheral vision, I have very poor colour vision in my periphery (everyone does to some extent due to rods/cones on the retina, but from what i can gauge mine is worse than most), and if I am in a queue of traffic with a lane of cars to my right such that a car's rear lights are in my peripheral vision through my side window then I can not tell the difference between a brake light and and indicator without looking across - I perceive that the light comes on, but I can not perceive what it is - dynamic indicator provides a differentiation. Anyway, back to the OP's actual question. I have, in the line of my work, disassembled a few dynamic turn-signal light clusters. On the Audi Q7 cluster it's trivial to enable/disable the dynamic turn signal (and audi charge £300 extra to enable it) - it's simply one of the 6 pins on the connector. However, on the PSA DS7 rear cluster it is totally baked-in - there's no way to disable it without delving deep into the electronics inside the sealed cluster (ie cut into the plastics and the resulting lack of sealing after that... bad news). The OEM (magnetti marelli) is the same in both of those cases. Hard to know how the Lexus clusters are implemented and I don't know who the OEM is (but likely Denso, Stanley or Mitsubishi). I'd say there's a pretty good possibilty that there is an easy way to defeat the dynamic indicator in any Lexus model because the US is their biggest market and the US forbids dynamic indicator (sort of - we're all familiar with it on the likes of Mustangs and it was all the rage on american cars in the 70s. However, the way that the US regulates it requires that each element that lights up in turn must have a minimum area that is pretty big - each one of the big 3-segment tail/brake/indicator segments on the mustang is big enough, but each step of an audi or Lexus dynamic indicator is not big enough. Not a problem for the DS7 cluster mentioned above as PSA have no presence in north america). It might be as simple as pulling a wire out of a connector, but how willing are you to risk damage to your vehicle/light clusters should something go wrong during the experimentation/implementation?

After my RX failed the MOT on the strut top bearings, my local garage spoke to lexus and they do not sell just this part you have to buy the whole new strut !!!!! £750 each !! So after spending some time on Google I found an advert on eBay and eventually spoke to this guy who was able to replace just the bearings for me at a reasonable £60 each The business name is orchard engineering and the contact number is 07901712988 Just thought I'd pass on the good news to other RX owners 🙂

Hi again. There is a tutorial here :- https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/536358-front-wheel-bearing-hub-replacement-how-to-04-06-ls430.html You are never more than a few mouse clicks away from a Lexus tutorial..... Scott

A bit of trivia - some people may think that the 'E' marked on the bolt head stands for 'Earth' but it doesn't. It's the manufacturer's mark:

After 13 years of ownership with my 1994 Celsior the only suspension problems I have ever had were 2 lower front ball joints, one upper front control arm and a rear spring and I put all these down to the state of the UK roads!

I know, and after all these years that I've been a member of the LOC it's time for me to listen to my own advice! Especially as I was being driven in a Mercedes today, nowhere near as comfortable!

If the car has the ultrasonic pack by the dome lights, then try and hold the off button on the ultrasonic unit for a few seconds to switch the sensors off an see if that makes a difference. The security light on the dash should flash rapidly when you press and hold the off button and that shows the ultrasonics are switched off. That rules out sensor issues, or possibly a window slightly open messing about with the ultrasonic alarm sensors. I doubt in this weather you're leaving the sunroof open. ;-) If the doors are left open, or the switches are broken to make the alarm think they're open the beeps sound immediately when you press the lock button, not after a few minutes. If the windows or sunroof are open a small crack, a breath of wind through the gap can trigger the ultrasonics and that can happen any time after the alarm is set. Other than that, possibly a weak battery draining too much too quickly may set it off. Of course once storm Gareth has gone, if the alarm stops, then it was just the wind pushing the car around and triggering the vibration sensor.

Funnily enough mine feels and looks like it has all of those but and returns great mpg. Road holding is amazing and at times it almost feels like it's RWD.

Almost certainly the 12V battery gone or going flat. You say you bought a new battery recently but exactly how long ago and how much have you used the car since fitting it? The 12V batteries used in the hybrids aren't very big and don't have a huge capacity because they don't have to turn a starter motor to crank the engine. All they do is to provide power for the entry/exit system and power for the computers to boot up and get the car into the READY state. A 'traditional' starter motor will draw upwards of 300A to crank the engine but as you can see in the photo below, my 2013 RX450h only draws 15.32A to get it to READY. Even if you don't drive the car there will be a drain on the battery for things like the alarm and immobiliser circuits; keeping the radio presets in memory etc., etc., and if the car isn't used for any length of time, say, stood in an airport car park for a week or two waiting for you to return from your holidays, the battery will have drained to the point where it won't start the car. I'm fairly sure that a set of jump leads or an overnight charge of the battery will see your car up and running again. If you're not using the car on a regular basis I would seriously consider buying one of these jump start battery packs or something similar.

Yay! We want pics, or it's not real!

Ah, I discern the wise words of a sensible man based upon his personal experience. I look forward to reading the review. Who needs Sports Suspension, Large wheels and Low Profile Tyres......other than the manufacturers ?

Depending on your location I would recommend these guys: http://www.toyotec.co.uk Honest and highly competent. I went there recently and they could have easily billed me for a bunch of work that was indicated from an MOT advisory, but had a quick look under the car and told me (and showed me) that it was entirely spurious and didn't need to be done at all.

Yes, however a quick 'google' reveals that the cylinder head temperature is significantly higher with LPG due to the quicker burn time of the gas. Running on petrol the cylinder temperature is reduced by the cooling effects of the petrol as it is injected. You don't get this with LPG as it is converted to a vapour in the vapouriser before it is injected. So it seems that the temperature around the spark plug will be much higher whilst the engine is running on LPG. Although LPG produces less total heat ( it has a lower calorific value) that heat is released in a shorter time. The reason for this is that LPG is a 'perfect' gas at ordinary atmospheric temperatures whilst petrol vapour is liquid that has been forced to vapourise. The cooling effect of liquid petrol droplets is not present with LPG and the total heat is released more quickly. A greater heat 'spike' is the result. The engine will run slightly hotter, although the difference may not be large enough to show on the temperature gauge. Only the cylinder head temperature (CHT) will increase significantly (although not enough to cause any problems). Most cars do not have a device for monitoring CHT (unlike aircraft). A typical car temp. gauge measures coolant temperature only, which is much more of a general picture. Leading on from that, it follows that an engine running on LPG will ' warm up ' more quickly than it would on petrol. Petrol consumption is extremely high when the engine is cold as a choke or excess fuel device (both giving a very rich mixture) must be used. LPG scores over petrol again, as this is not necessary. LPG does not need an artificially rich mixture and the engine warms (to its normal operating temperature, where it is most efficient) even more quickly as a result. LPG has a high octane rating (it tends to give less 'knock') and is more easily and thoroughly mixed with air. One of the results of this can be a quieter and smoother running engine. Scott

Hi Peter, this is the one I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Universal-Auto-Car-Roof-Radio-AM-FM-Signal-Shark-Fin-Aerial-Antenna-WT/192593664019?hash=item2cd77a1813&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVhXvoTouLhcUcY79O78ElPnZzBugTCpGGaisaCDtm%2B%2FrXokaBRTzLwQiuScUAvYJfZ0sBYA8PuGZcYGAXcXG6MNi8CTZiP6Ggeodo3d68agfYV6ZRbrsM94XBU0YxeLRGdhHepskNOCDTxP0XCuAzSvoiYW6r2o%2BF3kOmTmyVTa9XbRYp5IBNAs%2BcCnO9XwMc70yWhB2y7QLYUwFnivdKP%2BwqIfrnnpl7UFEuP0u2oizArHwT8TGBYHKKb3gRWyEQ0lb57l4D5C5UXWGPtM%2Fl5%2F8HKCXbXJXP%2BZ07SvaPQW16vokPcDNeC%2F0WxairwmCFEMOoHo2BvTOYo3JjPTCaHYuftIaIwxpZ0wTXyhwBUHML0uOz746EZHVJTj0jYbqL5VMQpqGTkk87BBZlzSRkmkMzTFPFp%2BLZnFrg75slmjfNv554kekKUbs9SBtRXRYNQw1NM2dt4WZeh3yagrZn%2FBOKMJEeRBL1f%2FsgUVZ%2BWr8mN%2Fwf6wRIueGJIRjhRZN4SZdipQaDPz8K22pLC8Q3rHFDY43o7I3QtmckRhi0WIht%2BnIVIq2xLaAns%2BsVtCF%2Fx8p7lz9vzxDghgvNLVBJYslzgRvgtYUX0M6Fe%2BXfezDvfbVcb3FIBlS0usQERvKnWgsfltoxYx9D%2BZKBio2mYLDfDkCcRQVhuo4OTB4Ak6T0XazwYqSLCZZy1YxBg1f7tKnM5vdqeysndJiJsQZ09OSbrCBL7dj8f9u3qVpqnHsSewTramkZEZ1jvUrz%2FvWkv4F%2Bp2NDSxuK3ToZd0iwVYMCqEK17yWLIFiN0AMGT9eK6jxGeZwYfV9yQGW2Wgp0aXYQIg2GVbds079WQ6YTteqE44i9rA6hiJVFQ9hJyAZlyGU3q%2FU0Pgfc%2BkGbj8tmu%2BCHgs4%2BIoCqQuh2kxko0Sz7AUUtdcGVYUsFl4AKq%2FJqpqeoU4uWI3hT4RkTzmHMH2m8EQSbOPfqwn2An4s%2FOA%3D%3D&checksum=19259366401972ec63dba8a44b67a608b6408fc62f45 It works fine and the chewing has stopped! As a creature removed it originally I'm guessing it just pulls off. I put the original remains back on (after retrieving it from the ground) and it just pushed back in place. The day before I installed the new one I removed the small screws from inside and sealed it (Stixall) then screwed the plate back on. It's all fairly obvious when you see it. The double sided tape they supply is naff so I bought some better stuff. When the old aerial comes off there's a piece of plastic inside the wire to keep it upright, that just pulls out. The back of the roof is slightly curved so as soon as the shark fin was fixed down I sealed the edges, Stixall again, then cleaned it all up. It sounds a bit amateurish but it looks very neat and tidy. 3 months later and all is good. Also worth mentioning, I used a hair dyer to warm the new one up as it was being fixed, just to help the adhesive as it was very cold. And I've no idea why the eBay link is sooo long!

Glad you got it all sorted Michael

Just to sign off this thread and give my thanks to Herbie for his sound advice and guidance; fitting is now complete and all is working. I used my noggin instead of a multi meter (a high risk approach lol) So tested what equipment would still work with ignition off, and found that the fuel cap opener is a constant live, 12v power sockets inside are not. So piggy backed the permanent live on the fuel cap opener fuse and the switched live on the power sockets fuse. Unit is earthed at the oem earth point behind the passenger side kick panel and all good to go. Will post a few pics tomorrow in case they help others. Removing the entire glovebox assembly took only 5 mins and gave me full access to the fuses and earth point, so very worthwhile. Michael

So just realised its been a whike since i updated this! Not much done really life has took over and been flipped 180 so this had had to go on the back burner! Anyway ive managed to finish the fuel lines and also installed a sytec fuel pressure gauge on the FPR Also managed to make the oil feed for the turbo aswell, used -4 braided ptfe hose andfittings all from viper performance. managed to neatly run it around the engine and down to the mishimoto sandwich plate. All the fluids are in and next up is the battery relocation. Once that is done i can sort out the vac lines and turn the engine over to get the oil round. Few more things i need to do before i can fire it up on the base cal. Also if any of you guys are on instagram, give me a follow on there, i post things on there pretty much as soon as they are done 👍 lexus_turbo_2jz

Google search Lexus Owners Club! Top of the list. And then through Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front Spring LH and RH 48131-50180 Front Shock absorber LH and RH 48510-80131 Rear Spring LH and RH 48231-50210 Rear Shock Absorber LH and RH 48530-80141 Springs around $130.00 Shocks $250.00. Parts based on 2004 Toyota Celsior UCF30-AETGK model. You would also need the rubber strut mounts/insulators etc adding around another $200.00.

There is no deception just be honest, My Antie is on mine she lives in Liverpool i put her occupation and address and all of her details. Obviously, she knows it as well, But Reduced my premium by a lot.

The standard spark plugs are fine - the LPG conversion does not need anything special. I did nearly 200K on LPG in a 430. The flash lube system is a waste of time - you don't need it. Keep the LPG system well maintained and don't let any Muppets near it. Keep an eye on the compression and look out for any rumbles - a loose spark plug on mine caused a burnt out valve. This resulted in low compression and low speed rough running. A V7 was the result and a 265K 15 year old car is not worth fixing at that point. A mechanic forgot to nip up the plugs during a service - number 6 must have been looser than the others......... To be fair the old crate had done its duty and owed me nothing. I miss the old beast but I don't miss fettling it all the time :). The new hateful object is awesome - get in, press the break, press the start button and go.

Ouch, just looked this up and this is the correct HKS SLD for the ISF https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product_db/electronics/db/14161 and it is indeed quite expensive. https://www.hendyeshop.co.uk/hks-vac-lexus-isf-45002-at010-17902-p.asp

I think they're silly.

I once ordered a couple of (I think) Pirellis from Kwik Fit because their price was the best I'd seen. When I went to have them fitted they were an entirely different speed rating and the branch manager didn't seem to think that was important. Walked away.

The slot that you put your music CD's ( and movie DVD's if you have the multimedia system) is NOT the slot that the SatNav DVD lives. The SatNav DVD has it's own dedicated slot that is behind the clock bezel/fascia, this is removable with the two small watchmaker screwdriver looking tools that are stored in the spine of the cars toolkit in the boot. Try and do it without using a Metal screwdriver at step 3, if anything use plastic! And don't bother to dis-connect clock module. paul m.

Hi owned this for about 3 months now, still getting to know it, loving it so far 🧐🧐🧐

Last week was the ISFs first MOT and service under my ownership. Wasn't exactly looking forward to it as: a) the car was still in winter storage, b) it was the big service i.e 60k and c) it was a 250 mile trip all in (my local dealer was now just a Toyota dealership). I need not have worried, the car sailed through the MOT and the service went well, additional work needed to correct the wheel alignment and clean up a sticky rear caliper. I really like how they text you a link to a video and the option of authorising any additional work. The highlight was the Salesman Stuart offering a drop off and pick up service to the tram stop. Good lad. There was a bit of a dilema what to choose though... hybrid or v8. Think you can guess what I chose! All in all a great service from Lexus Edinburgh, shame I couldn't get a discount with my club membership though.

A very similar (but even cheaper) one which I use and which works on Android with an app 'Torque' - there's a free version and a paid for one (£2.99 I think) which gives more data. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autool-C1-V1-5-Bluetooth-OBD2-EOBD-JOBD-Scanner-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Tool/112544094038?hash=item1a34269756:g:RRMAAOSwkWNZpRQN:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true These things work brilliantly giving loads of information and work with any OBD11 car. Only engine codes, though. A 'must-have' for Lexus owners is Tech-Stream - that's a Toyota-specific cable and software which works on Windows (so you need to get your laptop out) - that gives access to lots of information - codes for all the systems on the car and all the settings listed in the handbook which it says are dealer-settable. This is what Lexus dealers use to do a diagnostic scan and for which they charge £80 or more. Check it out on eBay..

I did a quick search for LEXUS on the Tapatalk app, and there you were!

Hi all, just wanted to give an update as I have finally (at last) had my airbag replaced, an essential minor service and air con cleanse / re-gas. I ended up going to Lexus Swindon and have to say I am extremely pleased with everything about them! The whole Atmosphere in the dealership, the service manager and front of house reception were lovely people and the technician who I met outside when I arrived was also brilliant. I am very thorough with my cars and check all lights, tyres etc at least once per week and had new Michelin Cross Climates less than 1,000 miles ago. The technician found a small (and I mean small) bulge / damage to the inside of a front tyre that I know could of potentials been extremely dangerous / have blown out!!! It was amazing he spotted it and shows just how thorough they were at checking around. When the service manage brought the car around to me we spent ages trying to find it and whilst extremely small I never take any risks at all with tyres so ordered a new one from a business I use. I get ridiculously good prices on tyres as work in Motorsport and have great contacts but unbelievably the service manger said he would not only match but try to better the price that I could get!!! On top of this I wanted two new wiper re-fills / rubbers, I have had a Michelin equivalent and whilst perfect at clearing I did not like the ‘J hook’ appearance. I still can not believe it but I was told they could not supply just the rubber but only the complete piece. I said oh well I will just have to pay the £50+ for the two and when I got the invoice the total for both of them was under £20!!!!!! In fact I am totally confused with their invoicing (doesn’t really make sense) but the cost of everything was superb and my Mazda MX5 is FAR more expensive for parts and servicing which I have done at Mazda. The best company I had ever dealt with before was BMW Carlisle but even though the service was fantastic it was all a bit too pretentious and uncomfortable in the dealership and the people were totally ‘up themselves’. The experience I had yesterday at Lexus Swindon was without doubt the best I’ve ever had and I have had a huge variety of brands both company and private. So I’ve decided that after the summer my Mazda is going and next year when I get a pension through i am buying a used RC as love everything about Lexus.

My car auto locks when you hit 15mph. And then unlocks when I put it into park. I programmed this via techstream with no issues.

Well done, the woodgrain looks very smart [emoji106] As do the rear lights.

I was searching google for information on the car i was buying

Nice that looks awesome! Bet that's fun.

Well it seems everything 'renegade' says about this program is spot on. I've only tried the demo which does have limitations - only the first five tracks of the first five albums are 'burnt' to disc. I did this and put it in the ML DVD system and it plays perfectly. I'll be investing my $39.95 (£26) in this little beauty of a program and finally enjoy mp3 DVDs in my Lexus. Thanks to 'renegade' for the tip.

you wil see it works, audio dvd creator burns 700/800 audio file's on one dvd, you can make your own background. the program make's á dvd film. it works on every dvd player. there is also a menu for folders and you can scip forward or back with the buttons on the steringwheel. you also can select songs in the menu by yousing the touchscreen. I hope sombody has as much pleasure with the program as i do.