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Good man, let's not be put off having air, and I agree, it does corner better than springs. I've recently driven 1500 miles in mine to Austria and the ride was just superb. Listen to comments made by those that have had air suspension, but many that haven't had it comment without personal experience.

Mark. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_man_on_the_Clapham_omnibus.

Nope, exactly why a diagnosis from a qualified technician is necessary. If you go to a garage and ask them to replace something they will do exactly as you ask and if it doesn’t fix a problem you didn’t tell them about then that’s your problem. I know this because I’ve made this mistake myself and wasted a lot of money!

Thanks for the suggestions - I'm going with the CD slot mount. I use my phone for google maps in the car, the standard nav is pretty poor - usually tells me there is traffic when I'm already stuck in it!

It is a misconception that AGM batteries "last longer". The length of time a battery will be able to stand idle is governed by 3 things or possibly even 4 if temperature is configured into the equation. Cold weather has the effect of reducing battery output. (1) the amp/hr capacity of the battery. The higher the better. (2)The quiescent current drawn from the battery. The current draw by the entry, and alarm systems while the car is turned off. (3) the self discharge rate of the battery. This is quite low usually around 1.5% of capacity per month. So an AGM battery of the same amp/hr capacity as a flooded lead acid battery will hold up for the same period of time. AGM batteries however are supposed to stand up better to being discharged without being damaged as much as flooded batteries. AGM batteries are however more easily damaged by being over charged or charged at a higher rate than the maximum specified, and can therefore be damaged by some alternator charging systems that will put 80 to 100 amps into a battery that is partially discharged. This leads to drying out of the cells as the only liquid acid is held like a sponge in the glass mat separators. Flooded batteries have copious quantities of liquid in the cells that can also topped up with distilled water as this is gassed of in high rate or overcharge situations. AGM batteries are considerably more expensive than flooded batteries, and tend not to have the often long guarantee "5 years" that flooded batteries have. Use as high a capacity battery that will fit in the carrier. I replaced my GS450H 70 amp/hr battery with a battery rated at 110 amp/hrs modifying the battery tray. At the end of the day however you can only keep drawing from the well for so long till it becomes empty, and rain is needed to fill it again. John

When I was speaking to the mechanic that another member introduced me to, we were discussing cam belt change. Insanely he said he loves doing it on the LS! The part of the conversation that really got my attention was his comment about water pump failure destroying the cam belt. For that reason I would never have a belt change without replacing the pump.

240K for cam belt is madness, but not sure what the recommendation for water pump is.

Google Maps now has this functionality. Only as of recently (in the last few months). Seeing as Waze was acquired by Google a number of years ago, and now this feedback function is a part of Google Maps, I question the need for Waze anymore. Google Maps interface looks far better than Waze. Even without the feedback functionality in Google, I kept using it. Both are miles better than the Lexus interface.

It'll still have rusty sills...even in the apocalypse.. and when civilisation comes back together, it still fail a MOT! Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Do they do it in Carbon? I’d worry about it being too heavy... 😂🤣

I've recently purchased a UCF21 Celsior with air suspension, replacing a 80k miles LS400. OK, I know I'll be up for an expensive bill at some point but wow, I'm sold. No diving on hard breaking, much less roll and wallow around corners than shocks/springs and of course the smoother ride on shocking London streets. I can fly around those corners at greater speed utilising the surprising amount of grip the car has as the car has a greater propensity to stay level than on steel springs. I priced up replacement OEM standard shocks/springs/spring seats/top mounts and it came to about £400 per corner, and the air shocks are £700, so I'll probably stick with air when the time comes for the sake of £1200. The enhancement to the ride and handling of the car is well worth it IMO, and the car is a keeper.

From what I have read and my own experience, I think the sat nav doesn't do justice to the car and I don't think an update will bring about a significantly different improvement. I am intending to use my TomTom instead - it's a 6200 series with free road maps and speed camera warnings. It worked well on my BMW E39 but the layout and shape of the dash on the RX make this more difficult, particularly with a large size aftermarket unit. Herbs kindly suggested a possible way of locating it by an adaptor that fits in the CD slot but that does mean you can't use your CD player. The set up is shown if you scroll down on replies.

Hi Yes been there, my 1993 LS400 was valued by a well known internet company at about £50.01 - I think it was £100 minus a £49.99 admin fee. Petrol at the time was circa £1.39 a gallon so a tankful was costing me more than twice the value of the car. I had a rear spring break and I remember being in the showroom at Lexus Cheltenham with my 2 bits of rusty spring being careful not to scratch a beautiful car in there which had a price tag of £100,000. It was an LS600, remarkable that these cars are now available for a fraction of that. I hope you find what you are looking for. ScottC

Your car looks great. Calipers really set it off. That's one thing I might change in future. Can't understand why they give the GS F that colour and not ours. Black or blue are the best colours for this car imo.

I have had mine for almost 15 months now and simply delighted with it. Yes the infotainment system could be better but the great points of the car far outweigh this. I find it extremely comfortable, quiet (best description is that you waft along!) and economical to run - latest brim to brim mpg is 44 with a mix of city and motorway driving which for a car of this size is very acceptable. Customer service from the dealership from day one of the initial test drive to the present has been exemplary. Happy to answer any specifics if required but I am sure you will be impressed.

How far does it need to go? I recently had a car lifted and delivered 10 miles away fo £60.00

After a 3am start from a somewhat wet and windy Dorset we found driving Mecca in Germany. Couple of laps completed to make sure Lichelle is up together for the weekends onslaught 🙂 So the RR Racing USRS are staying as they have been immense. Also the Ferodo DS2500 pads are incredible. 🙂

I wonder how many people who make these sweeping statements about the suspension being night and day have actually driven the earlier model cars. I had the choice of 2 cars, a 11 plate 60k mileage car or a 59 plate 34k mileage car. I really could not tell a great degree of difference driving them back to back, not to the point where I thought I could only live with one, so I went with the lower mileage and best condition car and have zero regrets. My wife is quite fussy and never complains about the suspension. I drove 6 hours in it last weekend without complaint. My father has a 11 plate 911 with PASM and I wouldnt say that rides much better. I once owned a fn2 type R, now there was a car with suspension I regretted buying 3 months later!

Hi that was me,first time ever on a drag strip bit nervous to be honest ,did 4 runs 3 with large passenger , first one solo no burnout left it in auto did 13.98 at 106 ,all the others were with passenger small burnout manual changes best was as you say 13.49 at 106 ,very addictive I really want to get into the twelves now.

All fitted now and over the moon with it

I just swapped the DVD. Think I had to have the ignition on, but never disconnected the battery...

All cleaned ready for TunerFest South at Brands Hatch tomorrow. 👍😎

Welland, the reason I mentioned the gauge of wire in my previous post is because the wire that supplies current to the trailer socket (and then on to the fridge and the battery in the caravan) may not be chunky enough. If the wire is too thin, then there will be a voltage drop along the wire, which means that although you get a voltage change at the battery terminals on the car, the voltage at the trailer hitch socket and then the caravan is a lot less or there is none at all. What you end up seeing is just the battery voltage of the caravan battery. In bad installations, even if the wiring has been installed specially, it can still be under-spec and dangerously thin and risk catching fire if it's trying to supply current to the caravan fridge and a discharged caravan battery at the same time. In some really bad cases I've seen caravan wiring tapped into wires in the boot, relying on the car's wiring harness to supply several amps to the caravan socket, something it was never designed to do. You need to work logically on this and go back to basics. Don't assume anything, including the fact that the wiring for charging is actually installed in the car! Check first you need to check that the car battery voltage goes from 12.5v or thereabouts when the hybrid system is inactive to 14v approx. when you press the start button and the hybrid system is active. That then gives you the base to work from because you can see the voltage jump is happening. A tired battery may not reach the required voltage. Then check you have decent gauge wire installed from the car battery terminals to the trailer socket (through a fuse at the car battery terminal of course). You then need to make sure the wire goes to the correct pin on the socket and that the voltage is exactly the same at the trailer hitch as the battery terminal. Then check the wiring on the caravan plug corresponds to the wiring on the caravan socket. I've seen installations where the pins are not matched so you can plug the caravan socket into the car, but you'd never get voltage to the caravan because the car is supplying a different pin on the socket than the caravan is wired to on the plug. It's more common than you think, because different people wired up the car socket and the caravan socket. Once you are sure you've got a voltage step at hybrid switch on, decent gauge wiring to the socket, no voltage drop, the car and the caravan connect to the same pins and you have a good connection from the car battery terminals to the caravan, then you can measure the voltage at the changeover relay in the caravan. When the caravan is plugged into the car, the nominal 12.5 volts of the car battery should not cause the relay to switch from house mode to charge mode. When the hybrid system is activated on the car (the same as starting the engine on a normal car), the voltage on the battery terminals on the car should raise to 14v-ish. The same voltage should appear at the caravan relay and it should detect this and switch over to charge mode. Pressing the button to stop the hybrid system should drop the voltage back to 12.5-ish and the caravan relay should drop out and disconnect the fridge and battery. If it doesn't then you are in danger of flattening the 12v battery which comes with it's own issues on a hybrid. Just see the number of posts on here relating to dead 12v batteries on hybrids. :-) Hopefully that should cover most of everything. I'm a bit rusty with trailer and caravan electrics, haven't done it for a few years (pre 13-pin socket era) and it changes constantly. That's another reason why the plug and socket might be wired differently: because the standards can change year-to-year.

Exactly my point. I would buy a second 'towing' car, if you feel the need for a caravan!!!