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I highly recommend owners of 2010+ isf swapping to the GSF. Especially those with a white or grey one. Sunroof would be good too. no bias here of coz *smirk*

my apologies

Message to everyone on this post & all other posts There is no need to be demanding and/or impolite to other members

Taken the ufo out for the firt time today. Its got some go in it. Its a bit like an ls400 on adrenalin. Got the best rear lights. And i love the little green ones on top off the wings

Installed my space saver and made new dummy floor. Feel better for having an old fashioned spare. What original tools I need I now carry in my mini trolley jack case.

So I took the plunge and opted for the Grom VLine Lite system so I could take advantage of Apple CarPlay. I saw that no one has really bought the unit before and done an install so I decided to take it upon myself to see how easy it would be to install. Disclaimer* Apple CarPlay needs to be 'activated' once installed! Fairly simple; press on it 11 times. This is the box that arrives with the top lid opened. Above shows the connectors on the rear of the unit. On the left is the DisplayPort connector that will run to the head unit behind the screen. the connector on the right is for the power cable that will run to the bottom of the head unit. I haven't really seen a clear image of the front panel online so here we have HDMI IN, USB 1 (mainly for iPhones), USB 2 (mainly for Android and any other USB device), HDMI OUT, SD Card Port (below the HDMI OUT port), proprietary connector; used for connecting AUX, front facing camera, rear facing camera (not needed if you have the factory reversing camera as the car will still automatically default to the main reversing camera), GPS (again not needed if you're using Apple Maps, Google Maps, Waze etc which will use your phone GPS), and an adapter for connecting a touch screen panel if your car wasn't fitted with a touch screen, then we have a Mic In port and the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna. The above image shows the power cable that will run to the OEM head unit and below that is the proprietary connector cable that connects to the various aux devices (it is not needed to run the Grom System and can be left out if not needed, such as in my case) The cable on the left with the blue connectors is the display cable, the cable in the middle is the USB extension cable and the cable on the right is the Mic cable. Above shows all the components of the kit laid out on the table awaiting installation. Probably the hardest part was trying to get the air vent out. The 4 tabs (that have been circled in the picture and can be slightly seen) need to be pulled down and then the vent assembly can be taken out with the help of some trim removal tools. I found a video on YouTube showing me how to do this and it can be quite tricky! Beneath the vent is a cable with two connectors that needs to be disconnected and removed before you can set the air vent aside. You then need to remove the 2 triangular plastic trim bits below which is super easy; just pull them towards you and they should pop out. Or use a pry tool! Use a 10mm socket with an extension to take out the two upper bolts holding in the head unit. Then move onto the two lower 10mm bolts holding in the head unit. If you're worried about dropping the bolts then you can always use a set of extension magnets. These were bought on Amazon and really came in handy. Clearly they came in use when trying to take the bolts out and placing them back in as my Halfords toolkit wasn't magnetised 😞 You can unscrew the gear knob and press the 'shift lock' button to move the gear into DRIVE and leave it there. I felt this helped but it's totally up to you. Lay down a cloth and bring the headhunt out and lay it down on the cloth. This is needed as the bottom of the headunit is short and will definitely scratch your trim if not used. The display cable is a Y shape cable, with one going into the Grom Unit and the other two behind the head unit. The cable has a male and female end. If there was something already inserted in your head unit(it's a blue connector so it can't be missed) then take it out and insert it into the female end of the Y cable, then insert the male end of the Y cable into the slot that's empty in the head unit. The picture should help clarify! The power cable is essentially the same sort of Y cable. In my case there was nothing plugged in so I just had to find the slot and insert the connector. Above shows the power cable connected to the head unit which was originally vacant. Above shows where I ran both cables so they could route into the glovebox. I decided to remove the passenger air vent so I could get access to the top of the glovebox. This is straightforward as it pulls straight out but be careful as there is a connector attached. For those of you who have changed your air filter, you know there is a panel at the rear of the glovebox that needs to be removed. On TOP of that cover is another cover that can be opened slightly to allow the cable to enter the glovebox. It's quite hard to see from the picture but the cables were routed into the glovebox and came in somewhere near the middle. Above shows approximately where the cables entered the glovebox. I should mention that this is where I found it easiest to run the cables. You may have a different opinion! Now would be a good time to run the microphone. I attached it to the ceiling, just behind the rear view mirror and ran the cable around the window. I opened the side air bag cover on the A pillar to run the cable down and tucked in in behind the rubber seals in the door and ran it through to the glovebox. Above shows the rear of the unit in the glovebox. It should be mounted so the display and power cables are facing the passenger door, and the USB cables should be facing the driver. I placed the unit on the glovebox divider and secured it down with double sided tape. Trust me; it's not going anywhere! Now would be a good time to do a test run. I turned on the car and pressed 'DVD' on the head unit and voila, it entered into the Grom system. I forgot to take a picture of the grom home screen, but Apple CarPlay was activated and works a treat. I shall hopefully do a review of the Grom system and Apple CarPlay if I have time or will make a video if I can find another camera. For £370 yes it is expensive even for such a basic system but or someone who uses Apple CarPlay a lot, I guess I can justify the price!

The time has come to let 'Larry' go...and im wondering how much he's worth/I should advertise him for. For those who don't know Larry, he's an LS400 1998 S reg with 122k miles. Full service history and the cambelt has been changed. The car is immaculate and drives superb. See pics. why am I selling? Now I'm travelling into central London I need something cheap and ulez compliant. I'm trying to find a cheap lock up to store it in but no luck so far. Any price indicator wouldn't help, thanks

Initial bite and feel is better than the originals. they seem to produce less dust too, which is great as the std wheels are a pain in the bum to clean!

Unfortunately I was in the US and only just got back today. Oh well 🙂

Well happy motoring and welcome,hope you find the forum educational and informative 👍

Picked it up today and well impressed. We have owned a Prius in the past and I thought they may be similar, but not by a long shot. Dealer filled it with fuel which was nice, and sitting at 65 all the way home displayed 62mpg, which I am happy with. Next job is to get a set of Michelin Cross Climates on for the winter.

if you do use an external power supply to keep your settings remember when you have disconnected the battery cables the + red cable will still be live so dont let it touch the body of the car. when i removed my flat battery to charge it i hooked up a spare battery under the bonnet using the jump starting tab in the fusebox, i then removed the battery cables and placed the + red cable into a thick glove with a cable tie around it to stop it from coming off this made sure it couldn't come in contact with the body.

I just did. Any Lexus under 10 years old which has covered less than 140k miles at point of sale from Lexus main dealer qualifies for purchase of extended warranty. Irrespective of service history.

Just do it, life is too short 😁 The GSF cabin is nicer than the RCF's, but I personally prefer the external appearance of the coupe. The back seats are certainly useable in the RCF, much more comfortable than I was expecting.

Do it. Do you need four doors?

@Flytvr makes a good point. For what must be near double the money is it near double the car or double the fun. It's a tricky one. On the other hand money in the bank is doing nothing.

Hi, I bought this kit a few months ago and installed it on my 2is 2007 IS250. So far I haven't had any problems and I mostly use it for Apple CarPlay. I tried it last night and it works with iOS13. I'll include the link to the article I posted on the forum regarding the installation on the 2nd gen IS but I'm yet to make a review on the unit. Ismael

I am in no way bias in any way shape or form... but yes to the GSF 😉, also on a side note, not that I am bias on colour either 😛 but there is white GSF on eBay still I think, might be worth a looky!

Personally I’d stick with an ISF and save your pennies 👍

Then please feel free to ring a Lexus dealer and ask them.

I have - it's about an hour to an hour and a half job so work it out from that. EDIT: Sorry, I got that completely wrong. According to http://catloc.co.uk/our-solution/ (FAQ section "How long does it take to fit?) they typically take about 20 minutes to fit, so you can work out the charge from that.

Must admit that I either started to get used to it or I just stopped paying attention. Hope it's not this though: http://carspecmn.com/toyota-and-lexus-v6-cold-start-engine-rattle-2gr3gr4gr/?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

To get advice on this forum is a good idea. Dealer prices are often very high and you can get good parts for much less. It is also very easy to buy bad parts that will not last. Cheap parts are sold wholesale at very low prices. I am wondering where those parts end up and who pockets the profit. I buy brand stuff from German sites, Like BREMBO brake parts and the like. OEM real Toyota/LEXUS stuff can often be sourced from AMAYAMA (japan) at better prices. From some US LEXUS you can get some LEXUS OEM stuff at more reasoanble price. ROCKAUTO also supply brand name parts like DENSO, BOSCH, AISIN . Have a few times from them.

Lexus Guildford took five minutes to switch it off free of charge. Pleased to hear this should be successful.

Personally wouldn't say its overly important,main thing is that it eventually got serviced,on the other hand the word full service history has been abused over the years and not many cars these days can claim to have a full service history if gone over with a fine comb(as at when due,according to schedule, everytime regardless) etc

Ok, that makes sense if there's no sensors in valves. So the one deflating tyre is spinning faster than the others? There was one tyre with lower pressure,I put there same amount of air as in others and reset the computer. After that light came off and everything seems ok.

Collected my ES with premium pack, and got 66.7mpg on the first mixed route of 102 miles; on par with me C350e and 520d before this car. 🤘

I have no idea on normal MPG at the moment as I am still messing around with Sport and Sport plus. I have a trip to Leeds and back next week which will be 200 ish miles each way so will be seeing what it does on motorways. Will update after that as may have some fairly decent data. I am expecting 40-48mpg at best and low to mid 30mpg if messing around in Sport modes.

Exactly the problem then. They are designed to improved handling, with the ability to lower the vehicle, meaning they are stiffer which will compromise ride quality and noise. Even 'comfort' coilovers are harder than Lexus stock suspension.

I'd snatch their hand off. 41k miles? Get in.

Just to bring this thread to conclusion. The dealer obtained LEXUS approval for the alternative pads all round. These were fitted under warranty last week and 300 miles later I haven’t heard a single squeak. I can’t detect any difference in braking effort or stopping distance. There also seems to be less dust generated I was reminded on collection that these replacement pads are not suitable for track use and I should let the next owner know if I sell the car. J

Can't offer any suggestions on getting the exhaust done, but we can offer you overnight accommodation not too far from Leeds, if it would help?

If the caliper is in that position there are one of two things: 1. The pin has freed from the caliper mounting itself (it is bolted on) but i cant see a way if it is free like that for you to remove it 2. The pin is free in the housing and needs a bit of rocking back and forward to ease the caliper off. Heat may help but be careful not to damage the rubber boot. Try tapping the caliper with a metal hammer to see it it will budge but not too hard but I suspect from the picture and what you have described that if the bolts loose then its a garage job - more than likely a new caliper To get it to that position was it tight? Did it feel like the pin was undoing? I am not sure how these are threaded, whether they are reverse threaded - maybe someone will shed some light on this... if reverse threaded then you might be lucky and manage to get it removed with a bit of force. You should be greasing these at least once a year - its a known issue with the calipers (do both front and backs). If not done then this is the result.

Exide make an AGM battery of the correct size with the correct size and layout of terminals. They are sold under the title of "Exide Edge". The cranking amps do not matter with a hybrid since the battery is not used for cranking the engine. Virtually all batteries of the physical size of that fitted in the CT200H have a 45 amp hour capacity, and it is the AH capacity that matters for hybrid vehicles. There is however a battery that will fit is an AGM and has a capacity of over 60 AH. The down side is that it comes with different terminals to the standard post type. This however is not really a problem. The battery I refer to is made for mobility scooters from a number of manufacturers including Lucas, and are priced at circa £100. I used one in my Prius "the CT is a Prius in different clothes" Normal car batteries of the same size can be fitted without problems, and are available for circa £45. The difference is that they contain more liquid acid than an AGM battery. So if the battery is damaged in an accident there is the remote possibility of rear seat passengers being splashed with dilute acid because the battery is carried under the floor of the boot. AGM stands for "absorbed glass mat" where the liquid acid is held in a 90% saturated mat between the plates rather like a sponge so there is little chance of acid escape. The downside of AGM batteries is that they can dry out faster than "flooded standard car batteries" because they have no reserves of liquid acid as does standard car batteries. John.

That’s way too expensive for a car battery. I had to replace my battery and went to the dealership and they charged me £125 with a 5 year warranty. Furthermore this is OEM.

Could be worse, if they fitted a sun dial it’d get confused on a roundabout....

I can certainly confirm what John says about the satnav, I put a UK disc in mine and it wasn't recognised. My understanding was that most imports, certainly to the UK anyway, have history with them. Mine does have the service book but you'll need Google Translate if you don't speak Japanese! As just about all of the imports come from auction they should come with the auction report which will verify mileage and body/cabin condition. These reports are reliable as the inspections are strictly controlled and not designed to deceive you into buying a lemon!

I recently was reversed into in a car park, my IS300h came up with a warming “pop up hood failure”. Albeit I need a new front bumper and radar sensor which is £2.7k in Sonic White, the guys at Lexus said I was lucky because if the pop up hood had activated, the repair would have been around £8k. The gas struts are £1200 each, and the pop up hood is connected to the SRS system. Lucky mine was a no fault claim on the insurance.