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If you don't want to spend the money on a Grom Audio Bluetooth solution I found this works really well. You need to remove the CD/tape unit first which is pretty easy. There are loads of youtube videos available to show you how. You then remove the little 12 pin plug on the back of the unit, insert the Y cable, plug the original plug into one of the Y cable connectors, plug the adaptor into the other. Tuck it all behind the centre consul and put it all back together. I have added a few photo's below if you can't be bothered to look up the video. Bluetooth Adaptor from Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluetooth-Audio-Freisprechfunktion-Toyota-Corolla-Prius-Auris-Avensis-T25-T27/264460236746?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It's from a German supplier but arrived up in a couple of days. I had to buy a Y-cable as my adaptor wouldn't work without one. I tried it without but the sat nav screen wouldn't work. I got my Y-Cable from amazon but they are available from the ebay seller. Y-Cable from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DJ3MHI8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I could be bothered to pull all of the trim apart to fit the microphone either so I bought a jack plug extension cable and mounted the outlet between the cigarette lighter and the headlight washer button. If I'm on a long journey and expecting a call I'll just plug the microphone in and clip it to my shirt. Most of the time I ignore the phone while I'm driving. Microphone Extension Cable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Panel-Mount-Socket-to-3-5mm-Jack-Plug-Cable-Lead-1m-007404/262633150655?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The CD function still works and the sound quality is really good. Remove the trim around the gear stick. Use a blunt screw driver, I used my fingers. Use the shift lock button and move the lever to drive Pull out the heated seat switch panel, you can do this by pulling from the cigarette lighter and from below the heater switches. Set the panel to one side. Using a 10mm socket and extension bar remove the 4 bolts holding the CD unit in place. There are 2 bolt directly below the unit and 2 more higher up to the sides of the unit. All 4 are easy to get out but the top 2 are a pain to get back in. Pull the unit from below and it will slide out. Remove the small plug, shown on the right in this picture and fit the Y-cable, plug in the adaptor and the original plug into the Y-cable. . I then fitted the extension cable and drilled a hole in the lower switch panel to accommodate it. Drilled a small pilot hole from the rear to get it centred, used a 6mm drill to get the socket to fit. I used a drop of thread-lock to keep the collar in place. The finished job, took me less than 30 minutes.

Phew All sorted. It was indeed a connector that he'd forgotten to put back on. All lights are now off. Thanks

Hi, I have a 2006 RX400h in USA and am also trying to figure out the best app to use. I found RX400h and install instructions here https://www.clublexus.com/forums/hybrid-technology/892810-how-to-monitor-hybrid-battery-with-torque-app.html Good luck

I must admit the whole thing is puzzling. On one hand you have a virus that is a fair amount less severe than influenza. Anyone who has actually had this will know how debilitating it can be. Yet on the other hand there seems to be a genuine panic amongst the establishment. Possibly due to the ease of which it can be spread??? Its apparently killed a young and healthy medical professional in China. The one of whom first went public about the virus (against the state's wishes). Lets face it it, in China you tend to disappear permanently if you don't do as you are told. I'm still not not sure what to make of it and as to whether there will be any kind of shut down. Can the World really afford to go into limp mode on the strength of what for the vast majority will be a few days off work??

While Colin generally gives good advice, with due respect to him I wouldn't do that as it could reset the very thing that's causing the problem and then you wouldn't have a problem to find. There are plenty Youtube videos on finding parasitic drains and this is just one of them:

That isn't normal. Once all the systems have completed powered down (some say it can take up to 30 mins after ignition turned off, but at least 10 mins) you shouldn't get more than 50mA drain. I'd start to pull interior fuses one by one to see which circuit is consuming all that power. The audio amp has been known to go faulty in the SC430 which causes excessive battery drain so start there.

Update time....... with the aid of some wire and a paper clip I managed a yaw sensor re-calibration... zero point calibration even... all the diagrams I found online were showing the wrong pins.... 4 and 13 it turned out to be 4 and 14.... it was free and its done thanks for everyone's help.

I'm not sure the CT has that type of conventional switch because the gear selector doesn't stay in the R position, it will instantly move back to the home location so there isn't a switch that is held closed to complete the circuit all the time you are in reverse. I'd definitely replace the bulb/check bulb connector for corrosion before looking further afield

Just an update. I still have the error code, but was able to reset/clear it before the MOT - the engine management light stays off for 1-2 hours running before coming back on. As you probably know warning lights on the dash are now an MOT failure, so had to do this. The MOT was due 2nd April, so I thought I would try early so as to allow time for the new exhaust parts from USA if needed. Anyway, it passed, I've got myself another years MOT the emmissions were not a problem. I'd actually put it in for the test a week too early, as I thought you could do it 6 weeks before, but was actually only 28 days. I'm really pleased, but will likely take my time to get the parts needed for later in the year when I have more time to get them fitted..

Hi everyone, update with this problem. In the end after much grovelling underneath the RX, I have resolved the problem by manually resetting the headlight beam aim. Hope this helps others with the same issues. Thanks for your help. kind regards. DaveB

First thing to check is your 12v aux battery. If it is partially discharged you can get all sorts of errors. If you have a sunroof then make sure the drain holes are clear. Open the roof and pour some water in the channel, it should run out under the vehicle on both sides.

I would contact lexussparesdirect via eBay and get a decent used one. A pity this wasn't three weeks ago as I sold a good one for £95. The front struts fit either side whereas the rears are handed.

From the book

My next-door neighbour is 91 and the best he could do was over £1,000 even though he's never had an accident or claimed on a policy. The insurance companies price these things because they can.

Les, I am bit confused, you have just driven around one of the most flooded parts of the UK, how come you did not spot a Sunseeker with the Bentley and Rollers parked on the poop deck!!!

Welcome Toby. Take it back to the Dealer you bought it from and tell him to fix it. Do not attempt any rectification yourself or permit anyone else to do so.

The 12V battery has to be working in order to boot the hybrid system and get the car into the READY state. If the 12V battery is down then a jump start is needed and can be done easily from either the under-bonnet terminals or the 12V battery terminals.

Top 3 things about "my" ISF 1) it's mine 2) wife hates it. 3) my little boy loves it (he is 2 in March) VID_20200205_164803.mp4

Hi Jack Don't buy a new one yet, I took mine out after buying a new one from Lexus £90 and stripped it down it is a common fault on the 97- 2000 . The cause is over indulgence of lubricating grease and this migrates onto the contact points and causes power cuts . The switch is easy to strip down and clean the grease off . The hardest part is getting at the damn thing.

Hi, I had the very same issue, intermittently for three or four weeks, almost a year ago. It was one particular rear sensor and also happened after heavy rainfall. I read a solution online to put the smallest bit of vaseline on a cloth, rub it well onto the particular sensor and then rub off any excess vaseline. I applied it like this and it cured it, and I haven't had a problem since! It is clearly caused by a build-up of moisture in the sensor after heavy rain and the tiniest bit of vaseline stops it.

Most of those are probably down to low voltage, your battery may have been close to dying anyway and a few discharges have finished it off... Dealers will have some hardware to plug in that will measure voltage use so they should be able to get to the bottom of it, having said that most auto electricians should be able to isolate the exact drain from a multi use fuse...