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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/05/2020 in all areas

  1. So picking up a caravan from the Lake District in a couple of weeks. Tow bar needed, Lexus want over £1k, err no thank you. Take to an independent, job done fine, but oh no. Parking sensors now throwing a fit🙄 'Not us guv, just a coincidence, honest, we've checked it all over' hmm. So this morning stripped the entire boot out, cleaned and reconnected all the bits, including the sensors, and after two hours all working again👍 two clips missing from the wheel arch liners each side, which might explain small amount of water present in corners of the boot so off to get replacements. Trouble is however good a job done, it seems there are always bits missing or clips left lying around. Not good. Anyway proper job done now and feeling good about getting it sorted.
    3 points
  2. Collected these fantastic tyres from Jay on Tuesday and couldn't thank him enough. He wouldn't take any payment for them and I felt a little guilty. He treated us really well, even having food waiting for us on our arrival [with wife]. I don't usually have this type of good fortune but this has restored my faith in humanity.Thank you again Jay and I would like to wish you and your family good health and fortune for the future. Dave B
    2 points
  3. My car had the not unusual cam phaser cold start up rattle from when I first bought it. I found a relatively easy method of curing this, and at the same time reducing cold start engine ware. The method consists of fitting an engine pre lubrication system to give oil pressure before the engine starts. I made the system up using readily available parts that should cost no more than £25 in total. I have had this system running for over a year now. Ebay is your friend here for parts. The parts required are followed by pictures :- (1) A fluid control solenoid valve suitable for oil with a 12 volt coil, and 1/2" BSP ports. (2) 2 x 1/2" to 1/4" BSP adapters male to female. (3) 1 x 1/4" BSP "T" piece female (4) 1x 1/4 BSP male to male coupler (5) 1 x Grease gun flexible hose with 1/4 BSP ends. (standard fitting) (6) A pressure container that holds approximately 1Ltr, and will withstand 100 PSI minimum. (see text) (7) Some form of mounting brackets for the above. (I used 3" exhaust clamps for the cylinder I used.) Solenoid valve. 1/2" to 1/4" adapter 1/4" BSP "T" 1/4" BSP male coupler Flexible hose rated at 900 bar more than capable of the at most 4 bar it will be used for. The pressure container (empty gas bottle) with solenoid valve attached. The flexible hose screw into the bottom of the solenoid with the tank vertical. The hose then goes to the "T" that is fitted on the oil pressure outlet. The oil pressure switch is removed from the top of the oil filter housing, and the 1/4" male to male fitting screwed in its place. The "T" piece is then screwed onto the male fitting, and the oil pressure switch then screws into one of the available ports on the "T" piece witch ever is the most convenient. The flexible hose is then screwed into the other port. This completes the work on the engine. The end of the flexible hose screws into one of the 1/2" to 1/4" BSP fittings, and this in turn is screwed into the port on the solenoid with the arrow on the bottom of the solenoid pointing to it. The other 1/2" to 1/4" fitting is screwed into the other port on the solenoid with the 1/4" male to male screwed into it. The tank is screwed onto this, and mounted vertically with the solenoid at the bottom. " so that the oil enters the bottom of the tank" I used PTFE tape on all the threads, but any suitable sealant could be used. You can if you wish fit a lever type tap in the line from the engine to isolate the system This completes the plumbing. The solenoid was chosen with 1/2" ports because it has a larger internal port opening to assist quick oil flow. Electrical. This can be as simple or complicated as you wish as a basic push button operation or a completely automatic system using a timer from the cars start button. I am for the moment just giving the simple version. One of the two wires from the solenoid is grounded. The other wire is extended to a suitable position on the dash to a push button switch this switch is fed via a 5amp fuse from a permanent 12 volt feed. This completes the basic electrical work. Operation. The car is started in the normal way the first time, and allowed to run for a minute or so then turned off. Check the oil level, and top up as required. The amount depends on the size of the tank your have chosen. This only needs doing at the first start up after fitting the system. The system operates by the tank being partly filled with oil at engine pressure while the engine is running. the solenoid valve allows oil to pass through it in the reverse direction to that of the arrow on the bottom of it. The air in the tank is trapped, and compressed to engine oil pressure with the engine running. When the engine is stopped the solenoid will not let the oil under pressure out of the tank. When you wish to start the car press and hold the newly fitted button for about 10 seconds to give time for the oil to get into the engine. This will open the solenoid and the oil at engine pressure will flow round the engine filling the cam phasers, and lubricating all the moving parts. Then push the start button in the normal way. The engine will start without the noise, and the tank will refill with oil ready for the next start. The tank I used was an empty blow torch gas bottle. These hold gas under pressure at around 100 PSI, and are capable of holding well over double that pressure for safety reasons. I drilled and tapped the valve end of the bottle to 1/4" BSP. Any container that will hold 60 PSI reliably, and with a capacity of about a Ltr or more will work, but the inlet to the tank must be positioned at the bottom. It also must be perfectly clean inside. I calculate that depending on actual engine oil pressure the tank will fill to about 3/4 of it's actual capacity based on 45/50 PSI oil pressure. The flexible hose can be a made up hose from company's such as Pertech, but must be capable of holding the engine oil pressure reliably. The bore of the hose should be large enough so as not to restrict oil flow. This is possibly the downside of using a grease gun hose, but they are rated at 900 bar 13410 PSI so no chance of it bursting, and are an off the shelf item. The length of the hose should be chosen to suit the mounting position of the tank. Sorry I could not get pictures of the system fitted, and I will answer any questions as there are bound to be things I have missed. John.
    1 point
  4. Ever since I bought my 96 LS400 last year there has been an annoying wind/road noise from the near side rear passenger area, just like the window is opened slightly. The window was fully closed so I was a bit baffled and was thinking maybe there is a hole in the wheel arch or something but I checked this and couldn't find anything. Possibly the weather strip/s on the door was causing it but I also checked this and couldn't see anything wrong. But...........................I found what was causing the issue. Bear with this because it will make sense at the end🙂 On Monday I took my mum and dad to visit my cousin, my mum was in the back of the car in the near side seat (the area with the wind/road noise). When I arrived back home I opened the rear passenger door for my mum to get put as it was pretty windy etc. While I had the door open I noticed that the rubber weather strip that runs around the top 'rail' for both doors (not the door rubber seal) had a gap of about 2 inches at the bottom rh side like the strip had moved forward. Once my mum was out the car I opened both passenger side doors and moved/slid the rubber weather strip back towards the rear to where it should be and it covered the gap. At the end of the rubber weather strip there is piece of rubber that keeps the strip in place but this had detached a bit. B4 and after pictures are below. Next morning I drove to work and the 'annoying wind/road noise from the near side rear passenger area' had gone. If it starts moving again I'll put a small blob of CT1 or something to hold it in place. I am so glad it has solved the issue because it was really really niggling me!! Obviously I hadn't noticed before, even when I washed the car along with the door jams etc. This maybe a complete one off issue on my car but just thought I'd post it in case someone else has a similar issue. B4 After
    1 point
  5. A small exhaust leek at the front between the two front sensors is the likely cause. Removing the bulb in the dash is now an MOT fail. The examiner turns on the ignition and watches all the warning lights go out in sequence. Any light not coming on or not going out is a fail. John.
    1 point
  6. I don't think there's an end date for the CT200h's production yet... but it has been around since 2011! An Autocar interview with a Lexus insider in 2019 said that they were working on a replacement for 2021-ish, but that it wasn't decided whether it would be another hatchback or a small crossover.
    1 point
  7. A heads-up Reading this week’s Autocar I see that the 11th March issue will include the ISF buyers guide.
    1 point
  8. Basil thanks for that I hope you are correct I will find out soon I guess, by the way what do you know I don't saying end of production I haven't read anything on this and when I asked the question at Lexus recently I was told they knew nothing, Back to the question GTE or CT when you mention only skin deep I totally agree I couldn't believe how solid the CT felt when I test drove one a few weeks back, I drive an A3 at the moment two totally different vehicles don't get me wrong I do like the A3 its a lovely car but there's something about the CT I really stood out and against the GTE well its a golf and honestly I cant get excited over a Golf to me its such a plain looking car on the other hand the F-Sport CT to me because its different its interesting and apart from the drive that's what I like about the CT.
    1 point
  9. Nice to know but Probably won't have anything that you could not find out 'in here'. Knowing what I do about Lexus/ISF it's gonna be a short article!
    1 point
  10. just had the 2 new front Falkens fitted and the date on them is week 13 in 2019 ................. so a brand new pressing Oponeo £66 each plus their dedicated fitter at £12 to incl valve balance plus tyre disposal @£2 each all plus VAT total £33.60 for the two ..............so that's £ 82.80 each wheel all-up I'll go get the fronts re-laser aligned quite soon to be on the safe side ......... they feel more comfy a drive than the Maxxis All Seasons they replace Malc
    1 point
  11. done several long motoway journies (300mile+ and ihave over half a tank indicated left. MPG guage as an average show 40+. My best recorded (got the pics somewhere...) is 43mpg over about 250miles. That was 70mph all the time i wasnt in a 50mph average limit. If i am on motoway my mpg 'bar chart' is always maxxed out, as it cant go over 40, apparently. The other day while under track conditions (sport+, manual mode, not coming below 4,000rpm, in and out of apex's) i was drinking about a litre a mile, about 4mpg on the charts. .... half a tank lasted me about 20minutes, basically
    1 point
  12. Theres a guy in Birmingham who will have one mate I highly recommend. Ricky 07866104047
    1 point
  13. Michael, Looking at the photo, I can see (on the left) looks like the drain plug mounted with the recess on the inside. I noticed some water in my boot the other day and decided to turn the drain plug up the other way, and hey-presto no more water ingress. I had removed the drain plugs back last year when doing some work, and took no notice of which way they originally were fitted, which is why I am glad (rightly or wrongly) flipping them stopped the letting water in. Not sure which way drain plugs should be set, but might be worth seeing if it makes a difference. Having pulled the boot apart a few times over the last couple of years, I always find clips and retainers breaking, and whoever fitted the tow bar to my LS (well before I bought it), left a nice pile of bits and bobs in a tupperware box (which was better than chucking them). If you do find wheel arch liners not clipped is the problem, does that maybe indicate rust in the arches is opening up some holes. I say that as on my LS the rear arches were startinbg to leak (LS does not have any covers on rear arches) and turned out rust had created a lot of problems, requiring a lot of ISOPON to be used to sort out.
    1 point
  14. Thanks for that Lee, I will do once I have gathered some cash together.
    1 point
  15. Pfft, you try and support businesses and then they only do half a job eh ! Yes, I remember when I fitted my tow bar and the dismantling / reassembly stages were quite involved. Parts left over are all in the name of saving weight...LOL. Well done sorting this out yourself 👍
    1 point
  16. The car also beeps to remind you that it's moved away from the key.
    1 point
  17. Hello Graham, I have a 2010 RX450 and occasionally, when the engine is fully warmed up, the fan seems a bit wheezy. I've managed to extend the warranty till December 2021 and will keep an eye on it. Also, noticed the misting problem in recent poor weather. From what I can gather the warranty company prefer the item to fail completely, wearing out would appear to be fair wear and tear. Hoping it's resolved before December 21! I'll watch this thread with interest.
    1 point
  18. I'd second Peter's diagnosis. The RX is very hard on the anti roll bars and drop links. The bushes and the linkages wear out quite quickly. The rear anti roll bar bushes are easily accessible at the rear of the car and are easily replaced. The drop links again are an easy DIY job, you just need to remove the rear wheel to get access. The parts are cheap. I got my roll bar bushes for about a tenner.
    1 point
  19. I had a worn rear anti-roll bar bush that caused a worrying clunk.
    1 point
  20. Should be easier and cheaper to source them from a breakers yard or off the bay,and you might be lucky enough to get them on your colour 👍
    1 point
  21. Plenty threads on here about water leaks on RX's. I thought the leaky car syndrome was a thing of the past, but these things like to leak. Strategic holes drilled, bungs removed mitigates a flood though. Mine emanated from the rear, and despite sealing lights, body seams etc etc it still does, but it now has somewhere to go lol. Mine was literally soaked from front to rear from a reservoir of water in the boot and came to light on a trip over very hilly roads. I also constructed a small dam between boot and passenger area to stop water sloshing to the front. Pete
    1 point
  22. Just an update. I still have the error code, but was able to reset/clear it before the MOT - the engine management light stays off for 1-2 hours running before coming back on. As you probably know warning lights on the dash are now an MOT failure, so had to do this. The MOT was due 2nd April, so I thought I would try early so as to allow time for the new exhaust parts from USA if needed. Anyway, it passed, I've got myself another years MOT the emmissions were not a problem. I'd actually put it in for the test a week too early, as I thought you could do it 6 weeks before, but was actually only 28 days. I'm really pleased, but will likely take my time to get the parts needed for later in the year when I have more time to get them fitted..
    1 point
  23. I have experienced the same - had some work done on my car and they had to remove battery and tray - couple of weeks later noticed tray not screwed back in - just placed loosely and battery connections very loose.
    0 points
  24. Having had three cars stolen (back in the 90's) only ever recovered one, the Police do seem to have other things to do, unless like me the recovered car had been used to ram-raid post office and then ram a police car. Now get this, I was driving home Tuesday night about 10 o'clock and there were 5 police cars in the middle of the village. I thought there had been some high speed chase or who knows what. Turns out ONE drunken middle aged lady not wearing shoes was the problem. I assume any other more serious crimes down the road were being ignored. Not sure whether to cry or stop paying my taxes. FIngers crossed for the return of your car.
    0 points
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