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The accelerator does work in drive with your foot on the brake, but it has to be pushed further than normal to get the engine to start and then run at medium revs. It does not increase the revs if more accelerator is applied. When in this mode the outer ring of the planetary gear is held still along with MG2. With the engine running it then forces MG1 to spin at speed generating electricity to charge the HV battery. All the Toyota/Lexus hybrids operate in this manor. If you use "P" the engine will charge the battery to a low level then turn off once the engine is warm. It will then restart if the HV battery gets lower on charge or the engine cools below a given level. The charge rate in this mode is slow because the engine is at it's tick over speed, and does not generate much electricity. It will also not top the battery up to the full bar level, but usually to the 3 or 4 bar level. John.

It may work differently on different models. On the IS I have the impression that in Normal mode the accelerator is disabled in Park whether you have your foot on the brake or not. That's to say, you can't rev the engine while the car is stationary in Park. But just a couple of days ago I discovered that you can rev the engine in Park when you select Sport mode. Not really my area of expertise, but I imagine this is important for people who like racing the adjacent car away from the lights and you need to blip the engine menacingly while the lights are still red.

Sometimes i long back to the days where cars had no clock, without 8 buttons on the steeringwheel, without suspension or throttle settings without sport eco + or ++ without enfuriating satnavs, heated seats that dont really work, auto wipers that always are too fast or slow, 10 speed autoboxes that keep gearhunting , wheels that are so big comfort is not included. And So On. Just give me a good car without all of this with a setting designed by the engineers and without a 300 page manual. Maybe i am getting too old and should just get a modern classic from the nineties?

I have this every time the clocks are changed. It's set at auto but it never ever does it. Just one of those things. As John says, there are more important things to worry about.

Hi all i had to have my lexus ES repaired as some idiot ran in to me my insurer wanted me to use approved repairer but i refused and i said i wanted Lexus in sheffield to do it who i bought the car from the insurer LV got a quote from them and agreed to use them by the way Lexus sheffield use Toyota across the road from them to do all repairs it then goes back to Lexus for final checks they did a fantastic job vinny

i have changed the bearings and oil seal in our washing machine the only part left in the machine was the water pump.

So due to circumstances I've had my first day off today. By 10am boredom got the better of me. Therefore the is got its 6 month major clean 4 weeks early. Washed!, hoovered, windows cleaned, de-tar, polished, leather feed, tyres jellied, and the hybrid fan motor got a clean too. The wife being a nurse on the front line I done the curtisy thing of hers before mine! Volvo may get the same tomorrow if I don't start boredom boozing tonight. If I don't have work by Monday I'm gona be out of things to pollish🙄 Wishing all the best of health

I've just been out to the car, full of expectation and hope, but returned with a sad face. I thought the clock was going to be at the right time.

I believe the only mode in which the traction battery doesn't get charged is 'N' (neutral) I was also under the impression the accelerator is 'disabled' when the brake pedal is depressed?

Yes, it does. We live about 40 minutes from a sea front and if we go there during rainy weather we'll sit in the car with the radio on, the transmission in 'P' and the engine fires up as and when necessary.

What you are looking for is a dacia sandero I believe. Not sure if they are available with wind up front windows or not tho!

hay Bernard i think this is just what you're looking for but its not from the 90's though and it looks like it has the morris version of the F sport interior colour for you aswell https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/morris/minor/minor-1000-traveller/1961/178684

Bob's your uncle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Herbs

Welcome to the 21st century lol🙃😄🤪

Not if yours is like mine. The main cable is crimped into the clamp that goes around the battery post, so you can actually unscrew the nut and take the bolt right out without the clamp losing contact with the battery post. Put the bolt through the CTEK eyelet then back through the clamp, screw the nut back on and Robert is your mother's brother.

As long as you do not remove the terminal clamps from the battery all will be fine. If you go the extra nut route do not use the nylock type nuts. If a battery terminals does come off the windows, and sun roof "if fitted" will need resetting. To do this open each window half way then shut holding the switch in the shut position for about 5 seconds. Do this on the actual switches on the door concerned not from the drivers door. John.

A good point, well made :-)

Do not despair Mincy. Einstein proved that time was not absolute my friend. There are more important things to worry about.

The IS 220D is great apart from rubbish engine, only 40mpg max for me. Gearing oddities and turbo lag! Build quality, styling, comfort, safety all great. James.

Didn't think anyone done that anymore. I replaced the water pump on ours a few months back and the wife's reply was "new machines are less than £200" Something satisfying about repairing things tho.

Hope all works out. I'm self employed too and things are quiet.

Most likely the 12V battery going bad. Either give it a proper charge overnight or replace it and I reckon that'll solve your problem. If you have a multimeter it might be a good idea to check the battery standing voltage and compare it against the chart below. If you can get the car into the READY state then you should be able to measure about 14.5V across the battery as the system attempts to charge it.

I got a custom setup made with remote control valves and high flow cats no drone at all and almost as quiet as standard when valves are closed but sounds like a super car when there open I do have ppe headers fitted also though so I should expect the sound would differ slightly if your running standard headers,cost me cheaper than the h&s system but that was with four round black tips which I ended up hating after a month so had some carbon fiber oval tips made up which put the cost up a bit more that's a company called STG performance a guy called shane, he knows his stuff works on race cars and bikes the welds on the exhaust are a work of art shame there not visible.

Although our car is used daily my wife doesn't drive, so if I'm incapacitated for any reason I can see that the 12V battery may be flat before I'm able to drive again. Of course, Sod's Law dictates that it would be on a cold, rainy day and I'd have to empty the boot of all its contents or risk losing the little plastic clips if I were to remove the engine bay covers to get at that more convenient jump point, so I decided to avoid all that hassle and fit a socket in a convenient and easily accessible place in the boot. Jump leads are great if there's someone else around to provide a donor battery but that doesn't always happen, so a while ago I invested in a jump start battery pack something similar to this one but mine's an earlier model. The hybrids don't draw a lot of current on startup; you'll see from the photo below that my RX450h only draws 15.32A as opposed to the 300A+ of a traditional starter motor, which means that I can use a small, neat socket instead of something big enough to put the big crocodile clips on. I decided on a panel mount 2 pole Neutrik speakON socket and the corresponding plug. These are actually loudspeaker connectors but they're rated at 30A continuous, so plenty beefy enough to handle the current. Having chosen a location the first job was to pull out the light to make sure there was enough room behind the panel and that I wasn't going to damage anything with the drill. The wiring to the light looks dodgy but I'm just waiting for a new connector to arrive so it'll be all proper again shortly 😉 Next job was to make sure I could get the cable to the required location so I pushed a piece of old earth cable down from the top and left it in place to use as a draw wire later. Once that was in it was time to drill the hole using a step drill and test fit the socket. Next job was to get the wires into the conduit, tie the conduit on to the drawrope at the bottom and pull it up through the hole. Next was termination. My original idea was to use spade connectors but when I pushed the socket back into the hole the connectors came off, so I resorted to soldering them on instead (and forgot to take a photo of that). Next it was just a matter of routing the conduit round to the battery and using cable ties to fix it to the other conduits going across the car. Before connecting to the battery I used my Megger to check for short circuits positive to negative, positive to chassis and negative to chassis, in case anything unforseen had happened. All good, so time to connect to the battery. Finally, a test of it all and you can see the battery voltage. All I need to do now is to make up the lead with the speakON plug at one end and the Anderson SB50 connector that plugs into my jump start battery pack at the other end and, as we say up north, job's a good 'un 😊

A couple of folks have asked to see the final result so here's a couple of photos just to finish off the job. First one just shows a little modification in that I've added a 30A in-line fuse to the new jump start circuit. Second photo shows the jump start battery pack with the cable made up and connected. Hopefully I'll never need to use it but at least it's easy to use if I ever do need to.