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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/04/2020 in Posts

  1. The probable reason you had not seen the logo's prior to this time is the battery had not been up to capacity from you owning the car and the Ecu had set conserve mode cutting back on supplied power use. Putting in a brand new battery with total power requirements for all services as reset the ECU,there may be a switch sequence also that disables this logo.
    2 points
  2. Arguably somewhat ‘left field’ but thought I’d share it for variety....
    2 points
  3. It appears that the animation is still there but it needs Adobe Flash to be enabled to see it and interact with it, but it's definitely still there as you'll see below:
    2 points
  4. Last week I gave the Car its bi-annual Wash and wax. Scrubbed up quite nicely considering I only take off Birds muck and wash the wheels more regularly after long trips. She (oops) "it" is only 27 years young. Did manage some time ago to almost push out that Hail dent in the rear d/s quarter wing. If anyone has a T-Hotbox I'd be interested to know how they got on with it? Saw Ed China (not his fault its his name!) using one on a Chevrolet Luv to remove dents from the roof. Amazing! As I've got possibly fifty dents in total on boot, roof and bonnet, I may if I ever get to France again (praying frantically) spend some time removing the dents and of course re-spray the front wing with the proper colour (not ebay seller wrong paint chart) that I left over there. No garage here so...
    2 points
  5. Today I started the Head to toe service on my GS450H while SORNed. First thing I thought was front brakes. The discs did not look bad looking through the wheels, but I removed the front nearside wheel to do a more thorougher inspection. The discs were not scored or pitted, but had a small lip on the outside edge. I removed the caliper, and cleaned the lip off with my angle grinder with a flexible grinding disc. Checking the thickness of the disc i found it to be 28.5 mm, and the minimum thickness stamped on the disc is 27mm so all good there. Next I removed the pads from the caliper. The outside pad came out easily, but the inner pad would not move. I also noticed the inner pad was slightly thinner than the outside. After much levering, and tapping the pad came out. Both pads had more than 50% of material left on them so no need to change them. On trying to push the caliper pistons in I noticed the bottom inner piston was seized, and it's rubber boot damaged. Peeling the boot back showed a rusty piston. Strangely the car past it's MOT Less than 100 miles ago and the brake balance was near perfect, and so past the test without problems. Ordered 2 caliper repair kits with pistons from "Big Red" and 5 ltrs of brake fluid DOT4 although the handbook say's DOT3. DOT4 is compatible with DOT3, but has a higher boiling point, and is less likely to absorb moisture. The brake fluid is something I forgot to order with all the other fluids to start with. Tomorrow I will strip the front offside brake to see what I find Then on to the rears, and possible seizing slide pins. John.
    1 point
  6. Hi, This is my experience over the years.....I own 3 classic cars, and when it comes to detailing them, this is what I have learnt and can say with confidence, the right (my opinion of course) course to follow. If you want to clean leather interior in your car then spend £0.99p on Pears transparent soap. Get a soft shoe polish brush and lather the soap and apply, rinse off with a wet colth. Then get a leather feeder balm and cure it. Secondly Halfords car polish is rated the top polish in the "best polish guide on line website" cheap and very easy to use, and Mcguires Ultimate car wax is very , very easy to apply and shine. Lastly seal with a good quality sealant, I forgot the name of the one I use...too dark to go to the garage.
    1 point
  7. I just go at it, I have never let the car sleep. I just make sure the ignition is off before doing any work in/on the car, normally if I’m working on the car the keys are hung up and not on me, but that’s only because I dropped a smart key in an gallon of oil and ruined it [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. As long as you like 👍
    1 point
  9. Yes! I have just ordered pity POSTAGE is twice the price of item but hey ho! Due to corona virus any money I have in the bank is going down quicker than the titanic so might as well spend it, many thanks LH
    1 point
  10. FYI the YooToob channel AutoDoc has now uploaded some ‘how to’s’ for the RX400h.
    1 point
  11. Nice fit and looks good ...
    1 point
  12. Thanks Roger. I vowed never to visit Bolton again when one of their Salesman using the toilet alongside me left without washing his hands. I explained the reason for their loss of my sale and left the premises. And I dare not tell you about the Senior Captains of UK Industry whom I noticed did the same, when I attended my first C.I.P.D Annual Conference in Harrogate. Just do not touch the peanuts in the Bar !!
    1 point
  13. I beg to differ. MG1 drives the sun gear of the power split devise "PSD". This in turn turns the planet gears "all part of the PSD" If the ring gear "part of PSD" around the planet gears can turn freely the engine cannot start because there is not turning moment of the planet gear carrier to which the engine is coupled "again part of the PSD" If the car is in park The ring gear is locked from turning by the parking pawl. This now gives turning moment the the planet gear carrier to turn the engine if MG1 is energised. If the car is in "D", and moving in electric mode powered from MG2 locking MG1 starts the car from the wheels via the ring gear, and MG2 as these are directly coupled to the wheels. So at all times the PSD gears are in use. In neutral Both MG's are electrically isolated, and free to rotate so the engine cannot be started. John.
    1 point
  14. They are all standard on an GS-F 😁
    1 point
  15. hahahahaha.............. you'll probably get the Halfords logo appearing every time you start the car now 😊 Malc
    1 point
  16. The alarm system appears to consist of 4 components. 1 The bonnet switch 2 The Theft Warning Radar Module 3 The warning siren. 4 The boot switch. I would be checking both the bonnet and boot switches, the bonnet switch in particular is obviously subjected to rain and road debris with the boot switch subject to foreign objects which may have dropped in there. Also I’m not entirely sure but can you not adjust the sensitivity of the radar sensor or turn it off completely? This process should be in the Owner’s Manual if possible. This is the basic system layout.
    1 point
  17. Hi, The Japanese car industry standards are much higher than those corresponding to European manufacturers. The most important check I would make for a any used car is that it has not been involved in an accident. There are also some checks you can do to determine the engine's condition. Toyota and Lexus have very reliable electronics and you should not worry about having any issues relating thereto. The traction battery, is easy to repair, usually you may have to change one or two modules which are readily available from Ebay and other sources. You can also buy Panasonic reconditioned traction batteries from Alibaba, last time I read they sell a minimum of five for $500 each. There are also new chinese traction batteries for your car for about $1500 each with three years guarantee or 30000 miles whichever comes first. There are many sources in the Internet. Chris.
    1 point
  18. I got a 2007 for 4k a few months back. Had to spend out a few hundred since, mind.
    1 point
  19. As member John "jumbojake" has already replied it is the way power is used in watts. At 12 volts the normal starter might take 250 amps to turn the engine, or 12 X 250 = 3000 watts. The HV battery is rated at 288 volts so at that voltage the current needed would be 3000 divided by 288 = 10.4 amps. At this current there is also less losses through heat. The same principle is applied to bring electricity to your home. The overhead grid carries voltages of over 164,000 volts at relatively low current, but when stepped down to 220/230 volts for your home uses higher current. At the high voltage used on the grid there are less losses due to heat, and much thinner cables can be used. John.
    1 point
  20. Is that Middleton in the Pickering area. Not too far from me, maybe a bit more than an hour away. I'll be looking to sell mine once the Corona crisis is over. You should get a good 55 reg for a lot less than £5000
    1 point
  21. For the last couple of days I have been cleaning the interior and door shuts, so it now looks a bit more respectable, although the driver's footwell could do with more work. Still, it's a lot better than it was. I noticed that the right rear seat was quite badly water damaged, and no amount of cleaning seemed to eradicate it entirely. However, I shall be restoring all the leather at some point, because there is also quite a bit of fading, especially on the rear seat. I thought I had better investigate, so removed the rear seat base, to find this: And this is the seat itself: The marks are difficult to see, but the leather in one area has gone hard, from being wet presumably. Bearing in mind the carpet in the rear footwell was damp when I bought the car, it looks as though someone might have left a window open at some stage. Hopefully nothing more sinister, but something to keep an eye on. Having finished the interior, at least for the time being, I started checking the electrics and found that the brake light switch occasionally stays on, so that will have to be investigated. Also, both the foglights don't work, so I am hoping it's just a fuse. At the moment I am crossing one job off the "to do" list and adding two more, but that's the way it goes with projects. Tomorrow I am planning to tackle the parking brake, so we'll see how that goes.
    1 point
  22. All you're doing is supplementing a dodgy 12V source by piggybacking a good 12V source onto it. 12V is still 12V, whether at the front or the back, so it makes no difference whatsoever where you connect a charger or jump leads - the main thing to worry about is making sure to get the correct polarity.
    1 point
  23. Piers, thank you. I have that one on my watchlist on amazon. Good to know you recommend it. The amazon reviews are excellent. Definitely considering this one.
    1 point
  24. As far as I am aware, petrol stations are still open and it is still permissable to buy petrol from them
    1 point
  25. Might as well give it a scrub. Not a lot else to do!!!
    1 point
  26. i have changed the bearings and oil seal in our washing machine the only part left in the machine was the water pump.
    1 point
  27. Well... finally, problem solved! Man this was a tough one. Ok so apparently the problem was with a connector at the driver side,(mine is LHD). In every documentation of this problem that I had it did not tell anything about the driver side connector. I took of the panel of and apparently a blue plug right at the bottom was the cause. I had a friend who is an expert with electronics and after hours of testing saw that the harness is in short and traced a light green cable that was the cause. Then we traced the wire to the drivers side and managed to sort out the problem. Hope my experience helps others if they encounter such a problem. The trace was even harder when the diagnose (techstream) pointed the BCPS as being faulty (error: c1378, sub code: 112). Again i want to thank you all for helping me with opinions. So happy everything is ok now.
    1 point
  28. I can see not only me spend those extra free hours on catching up with car jobs. I was working today on my wife CRV. Plan was replace rear sway bar bushing. Guess what - last bolt has snapped... Now I'm in middle of drilling through it but need rotary tool for the last precise bits. Will arrive on Wednesday 🙂
    0 points
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