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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2020 in all areas

  1. Helpful. I'm sure his sister finds it hysterical.
    3 points
  2. Waste not, want not I want to buy what will probably be my final car. It will be either a nine-year-old Bentley Continental GT convertible or a slightly newer Range Rover Vogue LWB Autobiography. Budget £45,000 to £50,000. I am told that both are very unreliable, so which would you suggest? TM I'd choose reliability over status and go for a Lexus RX450h. It's also more environmentally friendly.
    2 points
  3. Not immediately, as I discovered yesterday. However, I am getting quite adept at removing the dashboard lower panels, so it didn't take long to adjust the switch enough to solve the issue. Because we had a lot of rain last night I thought it would be a good idea to check and see if any had entered the car, and fortunately everything was dry, so that was a relief. I wonder if melting snow at some time in past might have been the cause of water getting behind the dashboard. As mentioned in my more specific topic, I discovered that what I thought were non-working front fog lights do in fact work, but only with the engine running, unlike the rears. I am currently awaiting delivery of sidelight and warning light bulbs, and then the car should be ready for an MoT, which will be a landmark.
    2 points
  4. Ideally petrol should be used in 3 months from fill up. It is progressively less effective after this and although may start a car for quite a time after, the longer it is left the more unsatisfactory it will become. Depending how much fuel there is presently in the tank it could be helped by adding a good proportion of new fuel. Did you pull a plug to see whether there was corrosion and a spark when plug body earthed?
    2 points
  5. The problem area has now been started. Rather than get a plate welded in, which I would if I could, I decided to take the advice of using epoxy and aluminium mesh. The area has already been prepared and rust treated etc, so aluminium mesh was cut to size and shaped, holes drilled in the wheel arch ready for stainless self tapping screws to hold the mesh in place, epoxy applied to relevant areas, mesh attached and fixed with stainless screws, more epoxy applied over the whole area to form a thin film over the area. Waiting for it all to set/cure and then more epoxy over the whole area to create thick coverage. Maybe another depending on how it goes. Then a spray of anti chip paint and some under body coating of some sort.
    2 points
  6. ignition needs to be fully on, leave for at least 6 minutes for the ECU to fully learn the key.
    1 point
  7. There are a lot of ECUs in the vehicle, at least 20 on the 300h which will all consume power with the ignition on. The stereo and nav system, if not turned off, consume power, including its cooling fan. The hybrid system has pumps for brakes etc. Auto headlights could come on if dark. Best to turn on the ignition, let it settle for 30 seconds, make sure everything is turned off that you are able to turn off, and then try to go into 'Ready' mode - even that will consume power as you have to press the brake pedal which will put on the brake lights - luckily LED otherwise that would be 40 w on its own.
    1 point
  8. Turn key back, remove, re-insert, immob light should then go out, then try starting.
    1 point
  9. Could just be the luck of the draw lol,there still seems to be a fair few IS220D out there still going,I would probably say if they are well looked after and maintained then they are less likely to go wrong 😁
    1 point
  10. I was wondering the same. I'm not very familiar with what these numbers mean - I haven't given it much thought since school days!. Not trusting myself to remember the formula (V=I/R or something like that?) I looked it up on the internet and found this page that says 15 amps on a 12 volt circuit equals 180 watts. If this is right (please, someone, correct if it's wrong) this is easier for me to relate to - a bit less than a couple of 100 watt bulbs. That sounds a bit high to start a computer circuit or two. But there must be some sort of relay to open the hybrid battery circuit - maybe there's a physical electro-mechanical switch to open it. If that's the case a brief supply of 180 watts might be possible. But it probably takes only seconds to get the hybrid circuit to the ready state, so the 15 amps probably doesn't depend solely on the 12V circuit for very long. It'll be interesting to see some more details.
    1 point
  11. Yes the series II GS is the same. Make sure the immobiliser light goes out, otherwise the engine will just crank and flatten the battery.
    1 point
  12. Yes it was, but possibly incorrectly now as I think about it. I'll run the test again and post the results. By the way, a 12V 2.1Ah battery should (if I remember correctly) provide a maximum of 21A for one minute, depending on type and age - but it's a very long time since I had to think of things like this so don't hold me to that
    1 point
  13. I cannot recommend a particular company, not having used one myself, but have you tried this company?: https://www.theleathermend.co.uk/car-leather-repair-derby.html I imagine sorting out the rip would involve glueing a backing behind it to restore structural integrity, after which the seats can be cleaned, coloured and treated, so essentially fairly straightforward, in theory. This is based watching The Repair Shop!
    1 point
  14. That's a good point actually. I can't remember now. I would have had the tailgate open but did I turn off the interior lights? Tell you what, I'll do the experiment again and make sure everything IS off this time
    1 point
  15. It won't last long if you used it as a replacement for the aux battery but would give sufficient current to get it to 'Ready'. The 45Ah is there to allow you to power lights, stereo, heating, power unlock doors etc. for at least some time without being in Ready mode, and to allow the vehicle to stand for two or three weeks and still have enough capacity to 'start' the vehicle.
    1 point
  16. Was everything turned off? 15A seems high. I jumped a RX400h once from a battery charger, that could only supply 8A maximum.
    1 point
  17. Not sure if the GS is the same but the LS needs to have the key inserted and turned to the ignition position for around 8 minutes then removed and reinserted to reset the immobiliser. Generally the car will happily crank over fine but the engine will not fire, another indication is the red security light remains on after inserting the key.
    1 point
  18. My RX450h takes 15.32A to get it to the READY state, so I would assume that an IS300h would be the same.
    1 point
  19. The seat element is similar to the filament in a light bulb, you apply voltage across it and it gets warm or in the case of a lightbulb it gets warm and produces light. If the filament in the lightbulb breaks the circuit is broken and the light goes out, same applies to the seat heater elements, the voltage is present but no current is flowing so no heat.
    1 point
  20. yes. You could use that to 'jump start' a hybrid if your aux battery was discharged. You need to minimise the current draw though - lights off, turn off the stereo, heating etc before trying to get it into Ready mode.
    1 point
  21. Nothing wrong with the battery if it will churn the engine for 10 minutes - but don't do it - it will do the battery and starter motor no good at all. If it doesn't start within 1 minute of churning, it's not going to. Recharge the battery. Possibly your injectors are gummed up. From here, I would buy a can of Bradex Easy Start if you can find somewhere open selling it - some garages will) and inject it into the air intake, preferably beyond the air flow meter. If your sparks are OK, the engine will start - maybe it will only run very briefly. Try about 5 times - with a bit of luck action in the cylinders will unblock the injectors and it will run OK or at least sort of. If it doesn't you may need to remove the injectors and get them cleaned. If it runs roughly get some fuel treatment/injector cleaner - probably do that anyway. You may have no sparks - check by removing a plug and see if it sparks out of the engine. But if it runs get rid of the old fuel, either by driving or draining and put fresh fuel in - a full tank full. If you are going to store again for a long period, buy some fuel stabiliser (Try Sta-Bil - get it on eBay) and drive a short way with it in the fuel.
    1 point
  22. Hi guys, thanks for having me in the owners club, I've put myself in as owning a ct200h but as the original thread starter I'm looking at buying a ct200 but have some questions as I've done the same as he has done in looking at the reviews and relavent videos on YouTube too and I've even asked a couple of owners along the way! , My questions are 1, servicing, does it need to go to a Lexus garage because of the hybrid system. 2, the actual cost for servicing, 3, can you get a service package to cover both engine and hybrid system and 4, MOT can you take the car to a normal MOT station for this and if not how come, this might be a lot to ask in one go but I'm more than interested in this car but this is a once only deal for me and I need to know that I'm spending my money wisely as I've never spent the amount of money I'll be spending on any of my other cars before it, as I currently drive a 2010 honda civic 1.4 si which I really do like a lot. Thanks for your time Andyc
    1 point
  23. Thank you DanD now you mention it its that obvious good spot, I decided on the Lexus in the end and picked it up three weeks ago and although I haven't driven it much because of the restrictions we all find ourselves in I do believe I made the wright decision, It feels so solid to drive and love the look of the car a different drive to the A3 but much more contusive to the way I drive each day, when I figure out how to post photos on here I will.
    1 point
  24. I did a front to rear service on my wife's 2006 Aygo today at 76,000 miles. I stripped the brakes front, and rear, changed the oil, and filter, changed the air filter, plugs, AC filter, flushed the brake fluid, changed the gear oil, and reset the clutch adjustment with Techstream "MMT version automatic". Things were so easy to do, and there being no problems what so ever I was finished by lunch time. This car amazes me as after 14 years everything on the car still looks near new, and works. I then decided as I was on a roll I would change the plugs on the GS450H. This turned out to be easier than at first it seemed. A couple of the plugs were alarmingly tight even after they started to turn, but a little WD40 down the plug holes, and turning back, and forth soon got them freed. After removal they still look in very good condition with the gap still well within tolerance, and virtually no carbon build up. I do not know how many miles they have done. I have done 60,000 miles in the car, and have never changed them. They were still fit for many more miles. Next job is the engine coolant pump, and antifreeze change then engine oil "with 0w16 oil", and filter. When this is completed If I can manage lying on the ground I am going to change the transmission oil pump bearings. John.
    1 point
  25. Interesting. Are they known to be reliable? I can only go by my personal experience, first of all i had them on my track prepped RX7 and they were fine, about three years later I saw my car at Japfest on display (well it was a nice car) with a number of bikini clad girls all over it, I managed to talk to the current owner and asked about the car. It still had the bright green shocks on it and he said everything on the car was good. I've had what you would consider a complex EDFC system fitted to the Mini about a year ago now and it is performing well with no issues. It's interesting that shock absorbers seem to get a lot of comments, when we were upgrading my track prepped VX220 Turbo people on the forum said Quantums were leaky and other brands this and that. In the end I opted for Quantum and never had a problem with the Quantums, if there was a Tein system for the car I'd have bought it.
    1 point
  26. Not only that but the Tein EDFC system is infinitely adjustable. The ride in my Minivan pre Tein was harsh, it held the road and for a short while fun. The Tein system transformed it, night and day is understating it. I had Tein coilovers fitted to my track prepped RX7 they were great but like many that are adjustable it's a bit of a one trick pony, whereas the EDFC adjusts itself hundreds of times per minute and responds to how you drive. Like I said if they did one for the RCF when I was buying my car I'd have bought a pre AVS car and fitted the EDFC system straight away plus you have adjustable height something the RCF desperately needs.
    1 point
  27. Finally got around to cleaning it, looks amazing! I really should do it more often...
    1 point
  28. That's the calipers and wheels back on after doing calipers orange and wheels gloss black. Also painted bottom section of rear bumper black. Just have to drop the height about an inch.
    1 point
  29. Easiest way to get the police round your house..... Tell them you are being burgled/car being stolen. Then tell them you have a gun and are just about to use it on the criminals. Very quickly armed response will be there.....granted they will arrest you as well as the real criminals but at least you get a quick response Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  30. Your comments about the police are illogical and based on emotions. This man has had his car stolen, let's just hope he gets it back and the thief's caught and prosecuted to full extent of the law.
    1 point
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