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Hello guys After reading through various threads on here (& starting one of my own) we managed to pick up an IS300h over the weekend. We're very impressed with it so far! The Sonic Titanium paint is something special - Grey/Bronze/Gold depending on how the light hits it. The seats are lovely both heated and cooled! It's also got the premium nav - Though I'm not sure we've got the hang of the mouse to operate it all just yet! Look forward to being a more active member on here. Cheers.

There is often a multi-hole grommet fitted in the bulkhead in the junction with the inner wing on the same side as the engine bay fuse box, to allow the main loom through

If the car is an Advantage then check the Diamond Cut wheels for corrosion around the centre caps and insist on refurbishment if there is any sign (Lexus UK paid for mine as a goodwill gesture). Make sure you physically check the car bodywork carefully before accepting delivery. Also check the interior trim especially rear doors for rips and scuffs. My last 2015 Advance looked great online and I was assured it was all good. Upon collection it looked fine (thanks to filling polishes). Close inspection following a wash required the car to go back and spend nearly 3 weeks in the bodyshop. This included a complete repaint of the tailgate due to a rust bubble near the corner of the number plate. This on an Approved Used Lexus. 😢

There are 6 of them altogether. I was incorrect above, that sensor is just for keys left in the boot, there is another one to detect the key outside the boot. Here is a system diagram which shows them all:

Well, I've only gone and done it. Bought the car from Swindon. Got a good deal too with the help of an extremely helpful chap on here - You know who you are! I am now a proud Lexus owner. Just got to sort out collection in this weird Covid-19 world of ours.

https://swindon.usedcars.lexus.co.uk/en/used-lexus/Lexus/Is-Saloon/300h-Executive-Edition-4dr-CVT-Auto-qxcakh2 This is the motor, Inazone!

Come on pictures..... Can't declare a new car without pic's. It's the rulez... [emoji6] Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

Congratulations Paul 😜🥳👏👍👍

Thanks Stuart, The problem is not getting the gland nut undone but getting the pipe out of the filter. Presumably something to do with dissimilar metals. I'm not sure what's on the end of the pipe, so have visions of having to replace the entire pipe if things go horribly wrong, hence my caution. I was going to replace it on the basis of time, not mileage, which is only 79,000, but at the moment I'll put the job on the B list for the time being.

No this was Lexus Derby.

That is poor. Beware Lexus Gloucester, then ?

Lorne. As Lee correctly states the power steering on the GS450H is electrically powered. The drive motor is mounted on the steering column. It may be that after 14 years the grease on the gears has dried up causing the noise, and re-greasing may well cure the problem. While your in the area it would be prudent to grease the steering height, and reach mechanism as this is prone to the same sort of problems leading to the mechanism seizing. Used steering columns are available, and cheap on the "BAY" if replacement is required. Lexus undoubtedly would charge more than the car is worth for a replacement. Strictly speaking after carrying out any work on the steering "including suspension, and tracking work" the steering should be "zero point calibrated" using Techstream to complete the process. John.

Jamie silly question but have you tried them with the headlights on first(common mistake)?

Congratulations Andy on your latest purchase,hoping you will be able to pick it up in due course 👍

GX64SXU shows up on the Govt's MOT History page as a Ford Torneo---not a Lexus

Did you know you can buy an RCF for £10.99 on Ebay? This surprise lockdown present arrived today to give me something to play with during these restrictive times for the full size version. Even has detailed RCF interior.

Welcome Andy. Send us some details and pics and reg if possible and we`ll do our best to comment. You should have 12 months warranty in which time you can have problems dealt with.

The Headers are stainless as are the primary CATs. Y-pipe is regular steel wrapped in fibre and an aluminium cover. Not sure about the section that connects the Y-pipe to the resonators or the resonators themselves. The final silencer sections are regular steel but seem to last pretty well. My 2004 has 130k miles and has had to have the Y-pipe replaced due to cracks where the tube was welded to the flange (cost £150). Otherwise the resonators and silencers look good with no visible rust or cracking on them or on the tubes linking them.

That's true, but I think they're old ones. I don't think you can buy them now without live parts exposed. It's also true that just pulling fuses can reset whatever is causing the problem which means you won't ever find it. Given that the fuses aren't all that expensive, I think I'd be replacing the ones that don't have live parts exposed with ones that do, if the first round of testing proves inconclusive.

This was a great car, i owned it for 13 years, bought it with 22km on the clock grade 5 from japan. Despite full no claims on the car for the 13 years i owned it in ireland the insurance companies here had me down to one choice of company at a price of 1800 euro 3rd party i had to part with it and i truely miss it, it never missed a beat

Herbie - - - I am sorry - - - I cannot help with any reasonable information on this - - - But will this help?

Provided you have fuses with live parts exposed. The fuses on the right clearly don't.

With the greatest of respect Steve, that's how it used to be done but it's not recommended now with modern electronics because pulling the fuse could reset the very thing that you're trying to find. I would also say that 80-100mA is a bit high. I would say about 35-50mA is more 'normal' although it obviously does depend on how many things need to be kept alive, so as manufacturers add equipment maybe I'm a bit behind the times and you're closer to the mark. The actual figure can sometimes be found in the specs for the car. Anyway, this video shows the preferred method of faulting a parasitic drain on modern cars:

What seems to be a common issue is the stereo amp on the SC430 as a source of excessive drain. Several posts about this over the years. Worth starting with that fuse.

Hi Mark and welcome to the LOC, First thought would be the battery...how was it checked? You need a multimeter to measure the current or better still a clamp meter which saves disconnecting the battery. With the car in full shutdown i.e. engine off and car locked the drain should be no more than 80-100mA. Anymore than that and it’s then a case of pulling fuses and rechecking, when the current falls that is the fuse powering the circuits and causing the drain on the battery.

Thanks Glynn!! Yours is looking ace too, love that wheel colour!

I was talking to a furloughed employee the other day. He's a bit of a motoring enthusiast as we all are but currently bored out of his mind. The conversation turned to machine polishing, I haven't got the patience but he's and avid detailer. He offered to do the GS and after a bit of arm twisting on me came up to work yesterday. I left him to it for about 4 hours and I have to say the finish is absolutely outstanding. The metallic flake is a revelation. Unfortunately I don't think the pictures do it justice but the car looks superb!

Not much else to do these days.... A few social distancing shots. Click the pic for higher res images;

Having completed the first stage of tidying up the paintwork I thought I would see the complete picture, instead of individual panels. I still have to polish and wax the car, as well as sort out the paint scrapes on the offside and around the aerial hole, but it's now looking a bit more presentable. There's still plenty to do, but the list is getting shorter. I am no longer I finishing one job and then adding two more! Without wishing to jeopardise anything, it sounds as though Steve has been able to work his magic on my instrument cluster and all the lights apparently now work. Obviously I spoke too soon about the electronics having survived the damp atmosphere unscathed, because corrosion was indeed the cause of the problem. Hopefully I will get it back next week.

I bought Bill Gates car, broke down last week, closed all the windows ,got out, opened all the windows and it's now ok. ''The old ones are best''

Yesterday I thought I would change the fuel filter, which I had hoped would be straightforward, but unfortunately it was not. I was able to undo and disconnect the banjo union on the inlet side, but although I could undo the gland nut on the outlet side the steel pipe would not budge, so presumably was corroded into position. I had read that quite a bit of fuel will leak out, and I ended up with about 1 litre. For fear of causing a major problem by using too much force, I adopted the mantra "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and put everything back together again. Of course the sealing washers on the banjo union didn't like being disturbed, so I discovered there was a leak when the pump was turned on. I therefore had to undo the banjo union and replace the seals, although this time I ended up with about 7 litres of fuel! Eventually I did the job with petrol still coming out - very messy. The next job, whilst I was under the car, was to replace the fill and drain plugs in the differential, which was straightfoward. Whilst I was doing all that my instrument cluster arrived, which I was looking forward to reinstalling. To my horror I discovered that the grey multipin connector had fallen down and was crushed by the steering column. Sods law dictates that it was the largect connector with around 20 wires. "Oh dear" I thought, although that's not what came out my mouth! Clearly it's not usable, so my first thought is to try and get one from a breaker, although presumably it must be from a 1996 model, in case the wiring is different in previous and later models. Any helpful ideas would be appreciated though.