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June 9th is the official release date. Came out of nowhere. lexus has confirmed it remains rwd Here's the teaser And a brightened one

There you are VL. Just like in thecowboys ... I taught you how to draw ...and then you gunned me down !!!!!! looking about 2 months. In no rush ... have the S2000 to play with while I can still manage to get into it !!!!!!

From what I have read sunroofs/moon roofs just create more problems. Allowing water to leak into the vehicle from either blocked drains or bad seals, rusting frames, mechanical and electrical failures to name just a few. All models have AC so little point having one for extra ventilation. Gone are the days when you could open the sunroof then allow the kids to stand on the seats with their heads out of it whilst doing 5 MPH through Blackpool’s illuminations.

If things can be easy or awkward, Murphy's Law will always come into play and make things as awkward as possible; or so I've often found anyway. Thinking that if a jump start is ever going to be needed, it will happen on a cold, wet, windy night and getting to either the battery in the boot or the dedicated 'more convenient' jump start terminal in the engine bay fuse box is not going to be easy no matter which one I go for. So, some of you may remember that some time ago I installed a more convenient 'jump start socket' in the boot: Silly Billy that I am, I hadn't realised at the time that if the battery is flat then the tailgate can't be opened other than by clambering over the back seats to get at the manual release lever. So, spurred on by @Richie_W's recent posting I decided to leave that socket in situ for something else but also to fit another socket that I can use to jump start the car, in a better location. The centre console of the RX has an upper and a lower 'level' to it. The lower level is open and already has a 12V power socket factory installed but it's not energised until the car is either in ACC or READY mode, so that was no good for this purpose. However, it does lend itself to connecting a USB voltmeter in parallel so I did this a while ago and it's great for charging my phone and as an indication of the battery voltage. Having already made up a jump lead for use in the back I decided to use the same sort of socket again at the front, a Neutrik NL2MD loudspeaker connector that's rated at 30A. I soldered a couple of cables on the terminals and terminated the other ends with male bullet connectors. Using a step drill made an easy job of cutting the hole for the socket. The job isn't finished yet because I have to get cables from here into the engine bay fuse box. Behind the glove box there's a big rubber grommet taking the existing wiring loom through the bulkhead and that's where my route out will be. I can't do it at the moment due to a bit of an ear infection. Luckily there's no pain but when I lie down or get my head in awkward positions like I would have to for this job, the whole world begins to rapidly spin round and I get to feeling rather puky, so I'll have to wait for this to clear up before I can do the other side of the job. However, this is what the finished job will look like and what it'll allow me to do (I've kept the original leads that came with this battery pack so that I can use it to help others if necessary but you'll see the lead I made up for my 'more convenient' jump starting, if or when needed):

Yes it has a super paint colour but black leather..... I don't think we are picky, just discerning. My husband likes to tell the tale that I once bought a car because of the shape of the exhaust..... who doesn't??????

Every response on this forum teaches me at least one new thing..... by the time I actually get to the stage of going to see one I shall be armed and dangerous!!!! Let's hope we don't go for the same one..... how long have you been looking?

When looking for a car online it is imperative that if you like what yousee and are genuinly interested in it that you invest a few quid in the FULL online checks . There are many out there Experion , Car Analytics , HPI checker etc . Pay them the money they ask (£7 approx per motor ) and get this before calling or messageing the seller . That way you are prearmed to ask the right questions . I was intrested in around six sc430's lately and for £40 I have the history on them . Its money gone down the drain if you dont buy , but its well spent if you do . PS ihavnt found the one I want yet .................................

well Gumtree do now and it's extremely negligent and unprofessional of them to carry the advert still the advertiser is acting illegally BUT notwithstanding that it's just incumbent on the buyer to make sure the car's what's wanted Mine is a Cat N write-off, repaired and back on the road .... it was never off the road in the 4 months till i got it repaired ......... a slight squidge on one rear door But structural is different I guess when you're talking about a write-off .......... I would want to see the photos of the damage caused and the details of the repairer too AND if that damage was really just flooding............... coz in my simple mind that would be maybe worse than a simple " nudge " Malc

I did two seperate checks . reported itto Gumtree that it was not mentioned on the add but I was talking to myself I fear!. Would not want anybody to be stung . Its different if you are straight up about a CAT S or otherwise and repair it professionably and then price accordingly . Not the case with this one . I woud not buy a damaged repairable or Insurance write off .Just been out in my S2000 Honda for a spin .... perfect ..... but not plush like the sc430.

Same with me, no sunroof. Not a bad thing either as I never use one and it's one thing less to cause problems!

Well obviously the AA don't make electronic devices and this does come from China, but I'm not sure what that has to do with anything considering most electronic devices are made there, and the ones that don't almost certainly have components made there. The OBD socket isn't designed for charging but these are very low current devices, not doing much more than stopping the battery from discharging rather than actually charging the battery. The newer one the AA brand is a 4W panel rather than 2W, which probably has a little more chance of keeping the battery topped up for vehicles with smart entry system as that consumes more power but is more expensive at around £35.

Before I put these on eBay I thought I'd see if anyone wants them for a bargain price. These are my original Celsior wheels with 4 excellent Bridgestone tyres. One had slightly more wear on the outside edge before I had my wheel alignment done. They've done approximately 9k from new. No centre caps as I've put them on the new wheels but they are a standard size so plain ones are easy to get and cheap. Tidy enough but a refurb would help. £150, the tyres alone are surely worth that. These are 6 spoke as opposed to the prefacelift which are 7 and facelift being 5. Bear in mind they are 17" though.

For those who remember these films ( for those that don’t please google 😀) Here’s something you don’t see everyday never mind have the chance to buy with all that money saved from not going on holiday. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254208236291?ul_noapp=true&fbclid=IwAR3qJc9ddc3iDCx1Dx3XlmKHqYjAz3kCHS3zuyvUqjPIyg4fLiNvxgHHCzA

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Yes thanks to Niik one catastrophe diverted

Yep - subscribe to that Once you know the details of the dye you automatically become a member of Bob's Beige Army of course. Good save on the Cat S as that was a very pretty looking car and rare to find. Perhaps that's why it isn't on ebay or Auto Trader.

Oh ye of little faith......

Thank you..... now just have to get the car!

Here’s the link... https://www.liquidleather.co.uk/ ask for RUTLAND IVORY. ..and my post on the subject 👍🏻 https://forum.lexusownersclub.com/threads/leather-seat-rejuvenation.13611/

There was a recall for the engine ECU on the 95-97 LS400 due to the engine stalling after a high speed run, for example coming off a motorway and slowing down at the end of the slip road. I hope it has sorted your problem but if you had the battery off this may have had the same effect as replacing the CTS. The easiest way to check whether the CTS is working is to start the car from cold and watch the RPM, when the temperature gauge gets to a quarter up you should see the RPM drop slightly and then as it approaches halfway the RPM should step down to around 650 RPM. This indicates the ECU CTS is reacting correctly to the temperature change and the ECU is receiving the signal and adjusting the idle speed.

Hold on a minute..this topic is for RoboCop, let’s not start drifting off topic yawl 😀

Good old school tickering half expecting to see a spitfire amp meter for nostalgia

Ideally you should use the OEM Toyota SLLC coolant "supper long life coolant" available either ready mixed or in concentrate form. This is designed to last 10 years or 120,000 miles. You can order it of Ebay. Do not worry if the coolant is low in the container as long as it is above minimum. It will be ok to use the car until the new fluid arrives. You can use some water to lift the level a little if you are really concerned. The amount required will not seriously dilute the coolant as a one off fix till you are able to refill with the correct fluid. John.

that's great news. Looking forward to more details. How on earth did they manage to keep this quiet!? Is it confirmed for the UK?

It’s also the more serious damaged category 😳 "What is a cat S write-off? (previously known as cat C) The ‘S’ stands for ‘structural’ damage but cars that fall into this category can be repaired. Unlike cat A and B cars, these can be made roadworthy but have to be fixed by a professional and also have to be re-registered with the DVLA."

Herbie - hope the health problem repairs promptly - - although we didn't have to incur such delays when we could simply send 7 year-olds scampering up chimneys, or hauling coal from deep mines. And people tell us 'life is better' eh?!

i have been thinking of using the other port in the floor vent to direct air to the seat back and using some flexible conduit https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/201590487588?chn=ps&var=500805046288&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=500805046288_201590487588&targetid=912555554137&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046509&campaignid=9441124701&mkgroupid=91043569850&rlsatarget=pla-912555554137&abcId=1140496&merchantid=110501637&gclid=CjwKCAjwztL2BRATEiwAvnALcuGC-MIlmfpKNm2gVcOd4N15URgmSPEpjFbHfmjaAocJjcyNGqWRtRoCclUQAvD_BwE

Thanks mate, its been a long time coming and tbh whilst ive been off work ive just thought if ever there is a time this is going to get done its now. Literally not stopped on it, ive got so much done and each little thing completed has pushed me onto the next thing

No idea on the video hosting but I hope you get it sorted. Have been watching this thread for a long time now and it's great to hear that it's moving under it's own steam at last 😎 Great work!

Well, I have a ISF and my dad has been running the same Landcruiser 100 for the last 18 years so I am in a pretty good position to judge. His is a manual 4.2 diesel and it averages about 22mpg. The petrol versions will be vastly thirstier I would imagine. I don't really see the point of buying one of these in the UK with a petrol engine if you can get the diesel. The diesel sounds pretty damn good in them with the turbo whistle and 6 cylinders. It's a very charming engine and diesel suits vehicles like this. Running costs are quite high with 5,000 mile service intervals. Tyres are very expensive for the Landcruiser. It's an extremely reliable vehicle considering how hard it gets worked. I'd imagine you will not be doing anything like the work that we do in it so it should go forever. Ours is now on 497,000 miles. The few notable things that I can remember failing include the heater matrix and the rusting wings and back door. The rust is a very common issue so watch out for that. Rust underneath is not an issue. We had an 80 series in which the auto box packed up. It was a weak point and I'm not sure if they fixed it in the 100 series. That's why we went manual as we do so much heavy towing. Overall I would say the ISF is a cheaper vehicle to run. And considerably cheaper than a petrol Landcruiser. They really couldn't be more different though.

the red one in edinburgh is listed as an insurance cat s

If you change the profile without changing the diameter you could run into trouble with the speedometer and odometer accuracy. Not to mention ones insurer if using tyre sizes not specified in the handbook.

@200h nice 🙂 My seat back mod was quite successful, in combination with the mesh back support. My back was actually cool to the touch after a couple of hours, so much so I turned down the seat fans from 3 which I'd normally use on a warm day to 1. It was actually a little too cold! I think I'll try it next without the mesh back support and see if it still keeps me cool.

My previous 430 came from Ireland (Galway) and had no sunroof, but I have not seen another without in the UK. Jon

Good memory Tis was indeed me and here the thread started: You can see the damage to the bumper in the second picture. Unfortunately, it did look a little worse for wear, but nothing that a little TLC couldn't sort out.

Drive seat has a bad tear ... the proforated leather on the seat back was badly torn. Tried contacting some upholstery repair shops and price quoted is eye watering! Managed to source a used one from fleabay. Picked up and replace...Lexi is now looking good. Only the B pillar trim to do...again the cover is damaged. I order some upholstery vinyl and the colour match is perfect. Wating for the spray on glue to tuen up.... Happy with my progress so far....

Courtesy of Phil over on the NX forum. There’s a 2020 free map update plus updates to the Audio and Navigation software.

Wow, I had no idea of how close you were getting it on the road! Fantastic effort. 👍 Now you are over the trepidation you must be relived and delighted in equal measure but I guess there's still much to do before the slog of the rolling road work. And perhaps a few days in the gym to build up that left leg! I wonder if you might be better uploaded your videos to YouTube? There'll be interest beyond this forum as well.

An LS 460 and a good thrashing are to my view a contradiction in terms Ross.

Hello Neil, welcome to the LOC, and please accept my condolences on the loss of your Dad. It seems a little strange that a garage with the correct diagnostic equipment didn’t find any fault codes which would help pinpoint the problem. The electronic throttle body is termed “Drive by wire” so there is no physical throttle cable between the pedal and the throttle body. Instead there is a pedal position sensor which detects the position of the pedal, a throttle position sensor on the throttle body which senses the position of the throttle butterfly, a motor to operate the butterfly and a computer between the 2 which performs communication and controls operation. Without any diagnostic codes finding the cause of your problem is not as easy but I would start at the accelerator pedal sensor which is fairly easy to access and check. Look to make sure it is firmly attached to the support bracket, it is plugged in firmly to the loom and the loom is undamaged. The picture below should help you find it, N3 is the sensor in question.

Hey everyone, I hope you are all well and enjoying this sun! I made an in-depth tour video on the facelifted RX450h F sport with the 'Takumi' pack if anyone wishes to see the updates and what a high spec 2020 RX looks like?

Yeah haha!! I tell you it is proving hard to get that cream leather clean!! Just over 130k miles!

Thomas, we now have Venetian Lady amongst us ! What mileage is on your SC ?

Hey Gents, I made a short video of my SC430 if anyone wishes to see my new (to me) SC in more detail? 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9f79IWyLmg&t=0s

Putting everything back is always simpler than taking them apart! All those seized / rusted nuts and bolts! But the joy when one managed to loosen them! Changed my rear shocks yeaterday and after a lot of swearing and a can of Plus Gas I know that feeling!

Exhaust is now finished Fits great, just need to shortem the tail pipe as is poking out pretty far, need about 2/3 inches cutting off it. Also want to get rid of maybe 1 v band under the rear axle as its pretty close to the floor and its not been lowered yet. Also started to repair the damage to to car from when i 1 got it. It had pretty much the whole passenger side wiped put from a drunk driver, managed to pick up 2 passenger doors in pretty good condition at £30 each!! Also got a passenger front wing that was double the price of the 2 passenger doors! got a few before pictures but cant load them aswell as the new wing pictures! Was then tine to finally sort the clutch, i had to take the factory clutch master cylinder off as it just did not move enough fluid to disengage that huge twin disc clutch. I was gutted about this as i wanted that ni e clean OEM look to it. I attempted to use the wilwood master that came with it. This was a nightmare as the adaptor block just didnt fit nor did the master on its own with the large reservoir!! I mananged to find a kit that wilwood did to remotely mount the reservoir somewhere else!! This was the game changer as any other issues can be delt with to make it fit and work! This pic is the modified clutch pedal frame to take the wilwood master. Below i had to change to clutch line out too for the -3AN line it came with, also had to modify the bell housing inspection clover to make it fit. This is showing the lack of movement with the old master fully depressed, do have a comparison pic with the new 1 but cant load it. These below is the remote reservoir setup, its a great idea if you short on space like i was and also takes it away from that hot down pipe! So with all that being done it was time to test on the road! I was pretty damn nervous tbh had no idea how it was going to turn out! She runs, idles and revs great but didnt know what it would be like to .. 1. Drive with that heavy twin disc clutch 2. What it would be like to drive under any kind of load 3. If the AFRs would be safe to drive either. Well i cant post videos which is a real downer but it drove like a dirty pig🤣. Really struggled to pull away, light throttle driving the AFRs was very safe in the rich zone but under around half throttle it was going lean so i quickly stopped trying that. The thing sound absolutely nuts, the noise off that 4" system was rediculous!! Data log only recorded 0.8 lbs of boost so you can tell i was taking it very easy, didnt even get to hear any filthy turbo noises but just to able able to drive it after almost 3yrs of it being in bits was incredible!! Anyone onow how i can upload videos and maybe get around the issues posting pics??

So my gut reaction is formed of these components: 1) ODB2 is not designed to handle charging current 2) Cheap chinese ebay electronics of dubious quality 3) The ECU and other expensive computers are accessible directly from the OBD2 port with (as far as i’m led to understand) no protection circuitry Sure solar chargers probably only produce a small charging current, but this still seems like unnecessary risk.

Thanks. Its parked back up now with covers on, il take it out close to my birthday Next lol, il get some Close up pics then.

From my experience, oil on the thread of the spark plugs occurs when they are under torqued. For my car the recommended torque is 19 Nm but I usually torque to 25 Nm. Oil on the plugs may be caused by a long overdue oil change, using the wrong type and viscosity, excessive oil in the sump [ over the maximum level ] worn oil seals on the intake valves and worn piston rings. A weak spark can also cause oil deposits. Stoichiometric combustion normally gives a light chestnut brown colour but for the electrode insulator to be white is normal. Like another learned member pointed out, Iridium plugs are normally replaced every 6 years or 72 000 miles, whichever comes first. As the plugs wear, their gap increases and for iridium plugs the gap should not be adjusted. From the photos, I think they have done quite a few miles over the top. If they are the original and fitted on 2006, the time span has been exceeded by far. I agree with the recommendations of other members and I always begin repairs and fault identification by doing the easy steps and cheap repairs first. Chris.

Had a beer delivery from Gloucester Brewery today. It was brought by a guy with an immaculate black CT200h. We chatted and I was amazed to learn it had 178,000 miles on the clock. Full Lexus history at Cheltenham and apparently running like clockwork.